Some of you were really helpful a few months ago when one of my toilets
Wouldn't stop running--told me how to remove the valve cap and clean off the
Washer.

Well, now the other toilet has the same problem--but the fill valve is a bit
Different. Based on the Fluidmaster website, it looks like the model
400A--has a black screw running down the side. The website's
Do-it-yourself section says to lift the float cup all the way up, then hold the
Arm that goes to the screw and do 1/8 turn to remove the cap--without turning
The valve shaft.

But it doesn't work! The valve shaft turns (makes clicking noise) but cup will
Not lift, and cap will not come off.

What am I doing wrong?

Thanks!

Turn water off at the stop valve under the toilet tank.
Remove tank lid and put it somewhere that it won't get broken.
Flush toilet.
Reach in under the float, lift float and grasp shank.
Press down and turn cap 1/8 turn counter clockwise.

By lifting float and holding the shank, you both hold the little lever up so the cap can turn and you prevent the shank from turning. Helps to press down a little as you turn the cap.

But that's the problem Harold--the float won't lift and I hold the lever up, but the cap doesn't turn?

If the float won't lift, how do you hold the lever up? Water off, lift lever, cap turns 1/4 turn to left. Lever must be up. If the valve 'y is loose, the whole unit may be turning. Hold stem the float is on and try.

Is this a Fluidmaster? Does it look like the one in the other toilet?
Show us a picture.

Freeindede said,
Some of you were really helpful a few months ago when one of my toilets
Wouldn't stop running--told me how to remove the valve cap and clean off the
Washer.


That's right, we did and looking back at your old posts I see that we discussed how to repair a fluidmaster valve so this fluidmaster 400A can't be much different than the old valve. If that's the case, then you simply are not pushing down hard enough on the cap. Here, hold the shaft in one hand to keep it from turning and then lift the cup and push down hard on that cap...it should pop and twist off.

If that fails to get you access, just replace the entire fill valve...a very quick and inexpensive repair (like $9.00)!!

Good luck!

Mark

Had the same problem last fall. With the water off you can slide the plastic holding ring at the bottom of float valve down and pull the whole thing up. Then you can get a better leverage on the cap and it comes open very easily.

Fluidmaster Universal Fill Valve-400ARP25 at The Home Depot (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Fluidmaster-Universal-Fill-Valve-400ARP25/100554467)

Run your pointer over the image to magnify and see what I mean and verify if indeed this is your model. When its out, look under the top lid and you will see where the slots line up. Twist and pull, piece a cake.

Yours didn't turn because you didn't push it down far enough to clear the tabs. When you can see it then you know how far to push it, and twist.

THANKS everyone--Talaniman's suggestion worked!

Now for two more puzzles:

1) I rinsed off the washer and put it back together early Saturday morning, and left the water on. Mom just woke me and said the tank hadn't filled all day, and no water at all in the toilet line (sink and tub had water). I figured what the hey--maybe I put it back together wrong? Took it apart again--looked correct to me? Repeated the process, took out the washer, ran water into cup, put it back together same way--and seems to be working now. Flushed it 3 times, walked away, came back and tank still full. HUH?

2) But also, I noticed the tank only emptys half-way when I flush. (No wonder she's always telling me she needs me to bring the plunger.) Can that be fixed easily?

But also, I noticed the tank only emptys half-way when I flush.
Show a picture of the flush (flapper) valve.

Took 3 pics--this one seems to be the best:
45646

The flapper just doesn't seem to stay up long enough--drops right back down before the tank finishes emptying. Can hold the handle down--but that gets old!.

That may be a fluidmaster DIAL A FLAPPER. If it is, you can turn the flapper (believe it or not) and you will hear small clicking sounds. Turning one way increases the "hang time" on the flapper. You can simply unhook the flapper and inspect for gradation marks (and imprint on direction +/-) or just leave the flapper in place and experiment.

Also, be sure there is no more than 1/4-1/2" maximum play in the chain...

Check this stuff and let us know if it helped!

Mark

Mark, that was it!

The flapper was set on "MIN" so I moved the dial to "MAX". Now the tank doesn't completely empty, but the water level goes down to a line on the inside of the tank where it looks like it maybe used to stop before the current works were put in.

Thanks guys! I'd say "until next time", but I'm hoping that won't be soon!

(I don't have the nerve to start on faucets--too many things can go wrong and I don't have the strength in my hands to make sure things get tight!)

We enjoy helping! Thanks for keeping us updated...always appreciated!

Sigh... well now I have another problem. The water starts and stops constantly---runs a couple seconds, then stops.

Here's the picture again: 45652

Help??

... or maybe not. When I looked just now I realized the chain (which I tightened the other day), now has too long a "tail", and it had hooked itself under the flapper so the water was slowly seeping past. I got that out of the way... hopefully that will take care of it.

Flapper not seating properly, clean seat, replace flapper.

Search Results for toilet flapper fluidmaster at The Home Depot (http://www.homedepot.com/s/toilet%2520flapper%2520fluidmaster?NCNI-5)

Model # 400AKRP10

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