Hi can eny 1 help me with this problem
I have honda civic crx 92 D16A9 some time don't want to start when it don't want to start I don't hear the fuel pump don't matter if its cold or hot.I leave it some time it works
Main Relay 100% OK I tested it.ignition switch is new.

Your ECM may be failing and preventing the second relay in the main relay from closing. When this happens, the fuel pump won't run. Run the K-Test (see Sticky).

OK
How do I run k-test

I fawned it

Here's how:

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt.

Thanks
Its late now ill do that tomorrow 1st thing and let u no

Hi
I did the k-test I'm reading 4.9volts. Dos that mean I have to chang ECM or thers a way to fix it

Your ECM pasts the K-Test and it shouldn't be the cause of your car not starting. I know you think your main relay is good, but if your fuses are good and your ECM is good, the problem is likely with the main relay. My advice is to resolder it or install a new one.

Can the wire harness because the problem. I'm using bran new main relay I did this test it past

Remove the main relay.
Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 4 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the No. 8 terminal of the main relay. Then check for continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the main relay.
If there is continuity, go on to step 3.
If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 5 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the No. 2 terminal of the main relay. Then check that there is continuity between the No. 1 terminal and No. 3 terminal of the main relay.
If there is continuity, go on to step 4.
If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 3 terminal and battery negative terminal to the No. 8 terminal of the main relay. Then check that there is continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the main relay.
If there is continuity, the relay is OK; If the fuel pump still does not work, go to Harness Test.
If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.

Bench testing a main relay doesn't mean much, since you don't have the ability to simulate the heat that causes bad solder joints to act up.

From my experience, main relays should be replaced every 10 years or 100,000 miles, whichever comes first. They are a very problematic component.

Thanks that was very good help
Ill try getting one of friends car and see how it runs or bye nother new one.

Hi
Ill try to get one of friends car or bye new one and see what happens

Thanks that was very good help
I got one from friend off his car gave him mine to try for one week
When its running main relay gets very hot is that normal

They will get pretty warm which, along with higher ambient temperatures, causes flaws in solder joints and leads to intermittent failure. I think it's a good idea to drill several ventilation holes in the top of the plastic cover.

True its worm from the outside and hot inside

Go Back To School And Learn To Spell Correctly.

English is not my language and I didn't learn english from shool. At least I have manners what you don't have I think you need a place to learn some manners.

Hi txgreasemonkey
I still have the same problem I'm confused
When I swich it on I hear the 1st click after 8sec or more I hear the 2nd click with the fuel pump for 2sec and then it stops with 3rd click.after I let it run for 10min and then swich it off and start it its OK the Main Relay works as it has to

I would run the K-Test and make sure your ECM is okay. Every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first, I recommend you replace main relays, igniters, coils, and even ECMs.

Yes ill do that think I have to chek the main relay conecter
Is the k- test enough to no if the ECM is okay

For starting problems, the K-Test is usually sufficient to test the ECM.

Hi
I did the k-test I'm reading 4.9volts.wen I remove the connecter and try to stars it starts but for 2sec and go s off and check engine light stays on

If the Check Engine Light doesn't go out, then the problem is with the ACG (ALT) fuse, main relay, or ignition switch. Since the K-Test showed 4.9 volts, the ECM should be okay. Ensure the main ECM ground on the thermostat housing is clean (no oxidation).

I suspect your ignition switch may be bad.

Hi
Wer is the ACG (ALT) fuse

Under-dash fuse box. It may be fuse no. 12 or 24. Easiest thing is to check ALL under-dash fuses with a test light or multimeter, then you don't need to even know its exact location.

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563-3.html#post251124

OK ill do that rite away
Thanks

I checked it.its fuse 12 I'm reading batt voltage.
The ignition swich is new I think I have a short some wer what ill do ill disconnect all the connecters on the fuse box under the dash and lieve the 1s for the main relay and ignition switch so I can start the car and test it for 2days and see what happens
What do you think?

Is fuse No. 12 bad?

Here's how to properly and quickly test fuses:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563-3.html#post252145

No its good I'm reading 12volts

Stay with it.

OK
Ill do Main Relay Harness Tests

Hi txgreasemonkey
I did harness tests
1. OK
2. 12.3volt
3. 12.2volt
4. 9.3volt
But got stuck with the 5th test I can't tell wich 1 is connector "A"

It's the connector on the left, with 26 pins, as you look at the connectors.

The test was OK
Still the same but thanks for the help it was useful and professional