Two questions

Will a freezer going bad cause a line to trip ?

The line had never tripped before. I pretty sure there are only two receptacles on that line, the freezer and another that gets occasional use, like a small light or computer.

The breaker has tripped 2 times in the past week... and it seems to have tripped overnight.



In my breaker panel the 2 last breakers at the bottom are different looking then the others (110 - not considering the 220's up higher)

They have "Test" (in red) written on them. Could someone please explain what this is for ?

Some basics for you.

In the U.S.A. the nominal voltages are 120 and 240 now.

The breakers you describe are more than likely GFCI breakers. They are designed to "trip" if a current imbalance is detected" on either the hot or the neutral. They look for a difference of between 0.004 amp to 0.006 amp (milliamp).

The "Test" button test the operation of the GFCI breaker. If you push the button, it will open the breaker and the circuit will be dead until you reset the breaker.

Thanks for that reply and info.

Okay,

Now it is entirely possible that the "Inrush" current caused by the freezer motor coming on might be enough to trip out the GFCI. Unfortunately, the NEC (National Electric Code) requires that receptacles in garages to be GFCI protected.

Thanks donf

I'll have to get the freezer to another line.

Using GFCI receptacles instead of GFCI circuit breakers can fix things like this...
The GFCI circuit breakers are seeing the voltage drop and losses along the entire branch circuit where a GFCI receptacle does not...

Thanks for that info, good to know but I do not believe it will help my situation.

It's a long story, and I'll post it... if you really want to know.

It's a long story, and I'll post it... if you really want to know.
Suggest that you do that.

As a possible solution you could replace the breaker with a non-GFCI breaker, then replace each outlet on that circuit with GFI.

If an appliance trips a GFI outlet because of a ground fault you will know which appliance is faulty.

It all started with wanting to put a receptacle on the exterior and interior wall so I could hook up my generator and not have to run an extension cord through a window. (south Louisiana hurricanes)

Thanks for your reply' s and hope the sketches are clear enough.

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http://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz111/lacogada/recep1_zps0538c651.jpg

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http://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz111/lacogada/recep2_zpsb4295001.jpg

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http://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz111/lacogada/recep3_zpsc5d40961.jpg

Sorry but I'm a bit confused. I am also very concern about what you are trying to do.

In your first post you ask about freezer on a GFCI circuit.

In you first drawing you show a circuit that goes first to the switch of an exterior light by the patio door, then to an interior (I assume) outlet for the freezer, then to an exterior outlet. You state that originally this was on a regular (non-GFCI) breaker. That should not have been unless the exterior outlet was a GFI.

In the process of cutting a hole you cut the cable. Your second drawing indicates the you cut the cable between the light switch and the freezer outlet. You put in another box and wired it from the freezer outlet. What is powering the freezer outlet and the exterior outlet.

You also indicate the you simply taped up the cut cable from the switch. You must terminate that cable in an accessible box. You can leave the cable in the wall as an abandon cable but you must disconnect it from the circuit at the switch box.

As to connecting up you generator. You can only hook up a generator to your house wiring with a transfer switch. It is not only illegal it is extremely dangerous to do otherwise. Not only is it illegal and dangerous, you can't physically do it except by using a "dead man's" cable, (one with a plug on both ends.) Guess why its called a dead man's cable.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding, correct me if I'm wrong. Perhaps a more in depth discussion of what you have done and what you want to do is in order.

First drawing was original connection, feed to switch of patio light... from there to freezer... from freezer to 90 deg recep. ( regular breaker )

The triangle is just showing that there was an exterior receptacle near that area. ( GFCI breaker in panel)

Once I cut the wire, I fed freezer from exterior recep which is on GFCI breaker in panel.

I will take care of that taped wired that is still hooked to switch... Thanks

Generator will NOT hook to house wiring. I have approx 16' - 10ga wire with 2 male plugs.

I plug the generator to new exterior recep which will feed new interior recep.

This is just so I do not have to run an extension through a window when original power goes off, and it will be right next to freezer.

Thanks for your reply.

Generator will NOT hook to house wiring.
That's good.



I have approx 16' - 10ga wire with 2 male plugs.
That's the dead man's wire.

That's the dead man wire

... please explain.

"Dead man's wire"

Because has only male caps when you plug one end into a receptacle, the other male end becomes live.

Since that end is male, the prongs are both live and exposed. If the bare prongs contact ground or metal or any conductive surface, "Bang". If you pick up the second male end and contact the live prongs, you are now a crispy critter.

A Power Inlet and an Interlockkit work well.
Everything on the load side of the gfi has to draw equal load on the hot and neutral, or it will trip. If you tie in to the neutral or hot only, it will draw more on one of the conductors, and trip.

Generator InterLock Kit (http://www.interlockkit.com/?gclid=COyAyq_vyrgCFSgV7AodHksAwg)

http://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/power/power-inlet-boxes.html

Thanks donf... I would have make sure I plug into outlet before generator, but I see it is not safe.

Thanks Stratmando... I see the Power Inlet for the interlock kit is female.

Do they make a Power Inlet for a 120... where I could just put a female plug on the end of my 10ga extension ?

My suggestion would be to put things back the way they were. Take the freezer outlet off the GFI circuit. Put an outlet on the end of the cable from the switch, run a cable from that outlet to the original freezer outlet. That would give you two outlets quite close together but would be the most ascetically pleasing.
Then make a pass through opening in the wall for the extension cord for the generator. Make a hole through the wall and sleeve it with 1 1/2" PVC. Chip out the brick and put an electrical box flush in the brick. Cut out the back of the box. Then put a water proof cover on the box. When you want to use your generator you lift the cover and pass the extension cord through the wall and plug in your freezer. When you are not using the generator the cover will seal exterior of the wall. The only reason for installing the box is to have a way off attaching the cover. You could seal the inside of the pipe with a pipe cap when not in use.

I will get the freezer back to original circuit, though I will have to tear up more wall than I wanted to.

I'll have to re-think my generator idea to make it safe.
I like the interlock system but it would be hard to get in place.

Thanks for all the advice.

That Male/Male cord is also known as a "Suicide Cord", Which is not probably accurate, as The person dying may not be the person who installed it?

Remember it is required by code that the receptacle outlets in your garage and outside must be GFCI protected.

It is not an option, nor can you just install a non-GFCI protected into the garage.

Thanks for the info donf... but they are not in garage.

One recep under back patio and one recep under front carport are hooked to that "Test" breaker I had asked about, in the main panel. Which you informed me it most likely GFCI.

Cut out 3 more bricks and was able to get to and fix the "cut wire dilema". Freezer back on original circuit.

Awaiting power inlet off eBay, and purchased a good female plug to fix my "Male to Male Dead Man Plug".