I am getting no water pressure from any hot water valves in my house. The hot water tank works fine, I drained it completely the water ran clear. I refilled it but it seems to refill extremely slow unless I have the basement sink tap on, this also gives the hot water faucets a flow, but of cold water. I left all hot water taps on while I refilled the tank, does anyone have a solution to this?

Do you have heat trap nipples on the water heater?

Do you have heat trap nipples on the water heater?


It doesn't look like it, the piping goes right into the tank.

Hard to tell sometimes.
Assuming you have heat sink nipples and that the little ball in the hot nipple is stuck closed. Also assuming you have a clothes washer. A temporary measure to restore hot water until nipples can be replaced.

Connect hose to heater drain valve and close cold water input valve. Open drain valve.

Disconnect clothes washer hoses. Use one hose to connect the cold valve to hot valve. Close all other faucets. Open cold and hot clothes washer valves. This will force cold water through the hot water lines back to water heater. Unsticking little ball in the hot heat sink nipple. Let water run for a few minutes until it comes out the drain with force.

PS
What you described is draining the water heater. What you want to do is flush the water heater. To do that you open the drain valve but leave the cold water input valve open, letting the force of the incoming water flush out any sediment or debris in the bottom of the water heater.

Hard to tell sometimes.
Assuming you have heat sink nipples and that the little ball in the hot nipple is stuck closed. Also assuming you have a clothes washer. A temporary measure to restore hot water until nipples can be replaced.

Connect hose to heater drain valve and close cold water input valve. Open drain valve.

Disconnect clothes washer hoses. Use one hose to connect the cold valve to hot valve. Close all other faucets. Open cold and hot clothes washer valves. This will force cold water through the hot water lines back to water heater. Unsticking little ball in the hot heat sink nipple. Let water run for a few minutes until it comes out the drain with force.

PS
What you described is draining the water heater. What you want to do is flush the water heater. To do that you open the drain valve but leave the cold water input valve open, letting the force of the incoming water flush out any sediment or debris in the bottom of the water heater.

Ah thank you very much, I just did what you said and got a strong flow draining out, now should I let the tank refill and see if it works?

Yes, close the drain and open the cold water input valve. Have to wait a little while for water to heat but you should have good flow out of any hot faucet.

Yes, close the drain and open the cold water input valve. Have to wait a little while for water to heat.

OK I closed the drain and opened the water back up, I get a sputter of air out of my hot faucets but then they soon die out, the tank seems to still be filling very slowly.

Wait for tank to fill. Cold water nipple may also be sticking if tank takes to long to fill. Bang on pipe close to water heater to see if that helps to break loose sticking ball in cold water line.

The tank is full, but I still get no pressure to any of the hot taps, this stumps me. Should I be replacing the nipples?

Yes, apparently the build up of mineral deposits has screw up their operation completely.
What are you skills, what tools do you have, can you show a picture of the piping?

Hi guys

As much as I agree that the nipples could be the issue here I would also suggest that you consider installing a new cold water shut off to the water heater... being sure to remove the old shut off.

In fact, if possible, before replacing the nipples, I would try to disassemble the cold water shutoff... maybe do away with the guts/washer and see if pressure improved.

That's my thoughts...

Mark

Hi Mark,

Agree that something smithlu could (should) try, just in case the valve has become clogged.
(Wish I had thought of that)

smithlu,
When opening the stop valve, did it feel right, or did the handle turn too easily.

Yes, apparently the build up of mineral deposits has screw up their operation completely.
What are you skills, what tools do you have, can you show a picture of the piping?

I am handy, and have fixed plumbing before, but everything I know about water heaters I have learned on the internet over the last day, my tool collection is not huge, if I need anything fancier than a wrench I probably won't have it. Here is an image, I have lived here 4 years and have never flushed it before.
https://mail-attachment.googleusercontent.com/attachment/?ui=2&ik=605bf2b1f9&view=att&th=13df03d705182cf7&attid=0.3&disp=inline&realattid=1431867305142255616-3&safe=1&zw&saduie=AG9B_P9E-fHvzFmb9tVusDebD7mR&sadet=1365535426517&sads=RMt8V9SWcvzYC8NJUQfAmkXMEto&sadssc=1

Where is pic?
Click on "Go Advance" button scroll down, click on "Manage Attachments" browse to find pic, Open, click on Upload. Pic should be in JPEG format.

Hi Mark,

Agree that something smithlu could (should) try, just in case the valve has become clogged.
(Wish I had thought of that)

smithlu,
When opening the stop valve, did it feel right, or did the handle turn too easily.

It actually took a lot for me to turn it at first but now it turns pretty easily, I could start by checking this out, it seems pretty old to me and not in the best condition, but the tank definitely has a good amount of water in it, so shouldn't I still be getting pressure?

Yes, should have pressure but may not have volume. Does the handle ever stop turning when opening? If you have a gate valve, the handle and gate may have come apart and you are not really opening the valve.

Hi guys

As much as I agree that the nipples could be the issue here I would also suggest that you consider installing a new cold water shut off to the water heater...being sure to remove the old shut off.

In fact, if possible, before replacing the nipples, I would try to disassemble the cold water shutoff...maybe do away with the guts/washer and see if pressure improved.

That's my thoughts...

Mark

Thanks mark I will give this a try, there definitely seems to be a problem with the cold water flow into the tank. Also the water stopped suddenly yesterday after a tenant did a hot load of laundry, I don't know if this information helps diagnose the problem at all.

Yes, should have pressure but may not have volume. Does the handle ever stop turning when opening? If you have a gate valve, the handle and gate may have come apart and you are not really opening the valve.

Yes it does stop, and again it fills faster if I have the basement tap on, it seems to bring the water pressure to the basement, so I am kind of second guessing if it is the intake switch that is the problem.

again it fills faster if I have the basement tap on

To me that sounds like the hot water nipple is still blocked, (or blocked again).

Opening faucet lets air out but water cannot pass. You could try back flushing again, then filling the tank slowly.

Open drain valve with cold water stop valve open. You should get full flow and pressure out the drain. If you do, that should eliminate the possibility of blocked valve or blocked cold water nipple, leaving only blocked hot water nipple as culprit.

Connect hose to heater drain valve and close cold water input valve. Open drain valve. That's not the way it's done. You POWER FLUSH not drai it,

For long life and fewer troubles you should keep your heater clear of mineral build-up by FLUSHING NOT DRAINING on a regular schedule.

Attach a hose to the boiler drain at the bottom of the tank. With the pressure on, open the boiler drain and let it run until the water runs clear. You will see a spurt of red,(rust) followed by white or yellow grains,(lime or calcium carbonate). This shouldn't take more then a few minutes.

Do this monthly to keep it clear. Now flush out your hot water lines on ALL fixtures that are affected . Don't forget to flush it out every month. Your heater will thank you for it. Hope this helps and thank you for rating my answer,
To test the hot water lines first shut off a hot water angle stop and disconnect the supply. Place a pan over the angle stop and turn it on. You should have a strong stream, If you don't then the hot water mains and branches are cloigged. If you get a strong stream then I would check and clean every cartridge that's affected. Don't forget to turn the water on to flush out the supplies before you reassemble each faucet. Good luck, Tom

Tom

To me that sounds like the hot water nipple is still blocked, (or blocked again).

Opening faucet lets air out but water cannot pass. You could try back flushing again, then filling the tank slowly.

Open drain valve with cold water stop valve open. You should get full flow and pressure out the drain. If you do, that should eliminate the possibility of blocked valve or blocked cold water nipple, leaving only blocked hot water nipple as culprit.

I tried this again, to no prevail. When I back flush the water comes in the hotside, and it definitely is, so that means there is no clog unless it has to do with the nipple right. Also I shut off the gas , this should not affect the pressure right? I do not want to call someone in in fear that they will have the same problems but will be charged to be told what I already know.

OK,
Close drain valve, fill water heater (washer hose removed) with T&P valve open. If heater doesn't fill in a few minutes you have restriction on the cold water input side. Then it only remains to determine if it is valve or cold water heat nipple. That of assumes that cold water is good every where else.

Before you go any farther you have to isolate the problem. Let me repeat.
To test the hot water lines first shut off a hot water angle stop and disconnect the supply. Place a pan over the angle stop and turn it on. You should have a strong stream, If you don't then the hot water mains and branches are cloigged. If you get a strong stream then I would check and clean every cartridge that's affected. Don't forget to turn the water on to flush out the supplies before you reassemble each faucet. Good luck, Tom