The freezing occurred only occasionally, for me, and I think coincided with a long period of not opening the freezer or using the water dispenser. I did install the water dispenser heater kit, as directed, and confirmed the voltage (5VAC as I remember), non-open circuit through the heater (100 ohms), and visual observation of the wires properly positioned in the splice devices, though my fingers could not confirm that the heater was warm. If the line freezes again, I'll try the trick of leaving the light on in the dispenser; if that is unsuccessful, I'll revert to the hair dryer solution. I'm done fretting about the entire issue, having done about all I can.

Important information for owners of Stainless Steel doors: While many Internet postings start with "remove bezel," on my unit the SS cover overlays the (larger size) bezel, and must be removed first: three screws on top and bottom, 6 screws on the hinge side, accessible from inside the freezer. (Some units may have screws on the fridge side of the freezer door.) Use care with cover -- edges are sharp -- and don't slice a water or electrical line.

What temp setting do you have on the freezer? Mine goes 1-10 with normal at 5. If I go over 6, the line will freeze on occasion. Keep at 5, never freezes.

You need to make sure to seal the door liner with GE Silicone when you re-assemble the door. Also, remove the door and lay out in sun so that it's warm and dry before you take it apart and re-assemble it. This applies to any freezer door. GE built a bunch of refrigerators without GE Silicone on the doors and it caused so many problems that it resulted in a class-action lawsuit. I have repaired many of these after they were discarded by taking the doors apart and sealing them with GE Silicone. It's ironic that the neglect to use their own product to save money cost them so much.