My daughter has a water well at her 30+ year old house in Massachusetts. She is having trouble with a lack of pressure for the 2nd floor showers. The existing pressure gauge is stuck at 50 psi, so I attached another pressure gauge to the drain and measured the system at between 34 psi and 60 psi. I felt that the low end could be moved up by a couple of adjustments of the pump pressure regulator, but the part that concerned me was the nonlinear pressure rate while the pump was on. The pump kicked in at 34 psi and the pressure increased linearly for 20 sec. until it got to 45 psi. At this point, in 2 seconds, the pressure spiked to 60 psi, tripped out the pump and the pressure immediately dropped, in 2 sec, back to 45 psi. At this point the pressure was stable and only reduced when water was consumed.

I then adjusted the Pumptrol regulator so that the pump started at 40 psi and tripped out at 60 psi. The linear operation still only goes to 45 psi, with non-linear operation to 60 psi. I believe that this falls in the category of short-cycling, and I’m concerned about the increased activity of the pump.

I suspect that the there is not enough pressure in the Well-X-Trol well pressure tank to operate properly from 40-60 psi, but I’d like someone that actually understands this stuff to confirm my diagnosis.

Thanks for any feedback.

Depress the needle of the valve stem on the tank and see if you get air or water. If you get water the bladder is ruptured.

The precharge air pressure of the tank should be 2 pounds less than the cut on pressure of the pump switch. That is with the tank empty. If you are going to change the pump switch pressures you should drain the tank and pressurize the tank to the proper pressure first.

Thanks. No water is released when I read the pressure on the well pressure tank. This is good news.

I assume the next step is to shut down the pump, shut off the house valve and drain the tank. Once drained, I should be able to pressurize the tank to 38 psi. Once the pressure is set, the house valve is re-opened and the pump is turned on I should see the pressure increase linearly till the 60 psi shut-off and the pressure should hold at 60 psi, right?

No water is released when I read the pressure on the well pressure tank.

I assume that means no water came out of the valve when you pressed the needle. Not that you just put a pressure gauge on the valve stem.


I assume the next step is to shut down the pump, shut off the house valve and drain the tank.
Almost. Turn off the pump, leave house valve open, open a faucet (to let air in), open drain valve.

I assume that means no water came out of the valve when you pressed the needle. Not that you just put a pressure gauge on the valve stem.

Almost. Turn off the pump, leave house valve open, open a faucet (to let air in), open drain valve.


Good question - I actually attached the pressure gauge sloppily and vented air in the process of taking the measurement. I'll test again before proceeding to verify the integrity of the pressure tank bladder.

Question: Why do I need to drain the whole house prior to pressurizing the well pressure tank by leaving the house valve open and opening a faucet and drain? I know that you said "to let air in", but with a standard "T" connection at the pressure tank won't air get in through the open drain as easy as back through a house open faucet?

standard "T" connection at the pressure tank won't air get in through the open drain

No, as water is coming out, air can't get in the same opening. Sort of like turning a coke can upside down, the liquid coming out must stop periodically so air can get in.

As the water in the tank drains it must be replace by air. Hopefully there is enough pressure in the tank for it to expand and push all the water out.

By opening a faucet and allowing air in, any water in the tank that is not pushed out,will drain by gravity. This is just to make sure that all of the water in the tank drains out. I suppose if you don't want to drain the entire house you could add some air as the tank is draining to push any water out.

Check the air valve again, just to make sure. The symptoms you described sounds like a "water logged" tank which can only happen with a bladder tank if the bladder is ruptured. Hopefully, it just wasn't pressurized properly.

No, as water is coming out, air can't get in the same opening. Sort of like turning a coke can upside down, the liquid coming out must stop periodically so air can get in.

As the water in the tank drains it must be replace by air. Hopefully there is enough pressure in the tank bladder for it to expand and push all the water out.

By opening a faucet and allowing air in, any water in the tank that is not pushed out,will drain by gravity. This is just to make sure that all of the water in the tank drains out.

Check the air valve again, just to make sure. The symptoms you described sounds like a "water logged" tank which can only happen with a bladder tank if the bladder is ruptured. Hopefully, it just wasn't pressurized properly.

Thanks. That's good input.