View Full Version : Shower drain removal and replacement
Handymom007
Oct 4, 2012, 12:20 AM
I am trying to remove and replace an old shower drain but having some trouble with the removal. It is an old metal drain fitted onto a fiberglass shower stall. It appears there was a problem with the drain before I inherited the leaky shower. When I opened up the drain cover to take a look, the space between the pipe and drain was filled with some kind of caulking. Some of it flaked off but a good amount is stuck on the metal drain and pipe. I will replace the drain with a Wingtite shower drain since I do not have access to the drain from below. The drain will have to be replaced from above. The shower is on a concrete slab foundation. Can someone suggest how I can go about removing the metal drain with simple tools? At this stage I have no idea if there is some kind of connection nut or gasket because of the caulking.
speedball1
Oct 4, 2012, 05:49 AM
Is the drain secured by a lead and oakum caulked joint? Let me know, Tom
Handymom007
Oct 4, 2012, 04:27 PM
Is the drain secured by a lead and oakum caulked joint? Let me know, Tom
Hi Tom, I don't think it is as you ask. I have attached a photo for you here. My concern is removal without compromising the fiberglass floor since it is one unit. If I press down on the drain area, I can see the entire drain slide up and down the pipe a bit. It tells me it's not watertight. I hope you can help me. Thanks.
speedball1
Oct 4, 2012, 04:57 PM
I think you have a shower drain like this one, (see image) This is secured by a large nut.
I do not have access to the drain from below. The drain will have to be replaced from above And here's where the bad news comes in. You can only remove the drain from the bottom,
the space between the pipe and drain was filled with some kind of caulking. This drain was "jack leged" in by as nonplumber. The raiser isn't secured to the drain. I'm surprised that you don't have a leak coming out of the base when you shower,
I'm sorry but to do the job right you'll have to get under the base.Good luck, Tom
Handymom007
Oct 4, 2012, 05:05 PM
Do you think there is anyway to cut it out?
speedball1
Oct 4, 2012, 05:16 PM
Do you think there is anyway to cut it out? Since nothing's glued there's a small space between then raiser and the drain body. It might just be possible to slip a hacksaw blade between them and attempt to saw the nut in two places. Good luck, Tom
Handymom007
Oct 4, 2012, 05:18 PM
Thanks. Will attempt before calling the plumber.
ma0641
Oct 4, 2012, 06:14 PM
Yes, a bit of a headache. However, if the space shuttle can fly with epoxied parts your shower may too. I would at least try to remove all the old caulking and use a Dremel to grind the outside if the pipe and the inside of the drain fitting to get a clean surface. Weight the floor so it is depressed and start building up epoxy layers to be within about 1/8" of the floor. Let it harden, and fill the remaining joint with a good grade of silicone. Try the shower. If it leaks you are out $15 and some time but if it works, you saved a ton of $$$. If it works, get a drain cap strainer and fit it to the floor flange. The new epoxy resins are fabulous for situations like this. Good Luck, Brian
Handymom007
Oct 4, 2012, 07:06 PM
Hi Brian, Are you suggesting that I not cut the old drain out but instead clean and fill with epoxy? If it goes wrong and the leak remains, can the epoxy be removed from the drain pipe if we end up having to rip and replace? I'm not familiar with epoxy and haven't used it before. Besides what's on the outside, I really don't know what it looks like underneath it all. I haven't done anything yet and still contemplating on what I can do this Saturday. I'm open to all suggestions. Thanks.
ma0641
Oct 4, 2012, 08:54 PM
Yes.Clean the caulk out, roughen the surfaces and use epoxy. You can buy 2 large tubes for about $15. Make s dam from foam backer rod to save epoxy. It will not harden so much that you can't remove it if necessary. Mix it 50/50 part A and B, little at a time. I just had to sleeve a leaking pipe in a slab. Made an insert pipe, slathered the epoxy on, inserted the sleeve and in 20 minutes had a pipe repaired that "could only be fixed by chopping out the pipe "