I have a 2005 Ford 500 that has the dual control A/C. Driver's side blows cool, not cold, but passenger side is blowing HOT.

Can you give me some ideas as to what I need to do to get this working properly again?

Thanks!

J_9, you have a blend door actuator problem. Run the diagnostic test below.


Electronic Air Temperature Control (EATC) On-Board Diagnostic Test


NOTE: Intermittent (run time) trouble codes will be deleted after 80 ignition cycles.


The Remote Climate Control (RCC) module is capable of displaying both self-test faults and intermittent (run time) faults on the Integrated Control Panel (ICP). To obtain these codes, perform the following EATC on-board diagnostics test:

. On-board diagnostics should be run in ambient temperatures between 50 and 90 degrees F. Record all Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) displayed during diagnostic test mode.

. Turn ignition switch to RUN position.

. Push both OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously; then, press AUTO within two seconds.

. The test may run as long as 30 seconds, while the display will show a dashed line in the center of the display window.

. After about 20 seconds, a DTC will appear in the display. The self-test is completed when 888 appears in the center of the climate control display window of the ICP.

. To exit the self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs, press the "-" (cooler) side of the TEMP button. The RCC module will exit the self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs.

. Always exit the self-test, before powering the system down (system turned off).

. Refer to a DTC Index for additional help. Here are several common self-test faults:

024--A/C Electronic Blend Door Actuator Failure
030--In-Car Temperature Sensor Short
031--In-Car Temperature Sensor Open
040--Ambient Temperature Sensor Short
041--Ambient Temperature Sensor Open
050--Sunload Sensor Short

. Some heating and air conditioning control problems are solved just by running the self-test.

Let's say you run the diagnostic test and you get a DTC 025, which is not a hard fault. It says there is nothing wrong now, but there was some error in the past. Instead of exiting and saving the code, clear all codes. This often recalibrates the blend door actuator and solves the problem.

Electronic Air Temperature Control (EATC) On-Board Diagnostic Test


NOTE: Intermittent (run time) trouble codes will be deleted after 80 ignition cycles.


The Remote Climate Control (RCC) module is capable of displaying both self-test faults and intermittent (run time) faults on the Integrated Control Panel (ICP). To obtain these codes, perform the following EATC on-board diagnostics test:

. On-board diagnostics should be run in ambient temperatures between 50 and 90 degrees F. Record all Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) displayed during diagnostic test mode.

. Turn ignition switch to RUN position.

. Push both OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously; then, press AUTO within two seconds.

. The test may run as long as 30 seconds, while the display will show a dashed line in the center of the display window.

. After about 20 seconds, a DTC will appear in the display. The self-test is completed when 888 appears in the center of the climate control display window of the ICP.

. To exit the self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs, press the "-" (cooler) side of the TEMP button. The RCC module will exit the self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs.

. Always exit the self-test, before powering the system down (system turned off).

. Refer to a DTC Index for additional help. Here are several common self-test faults:

024--A/C Electronic Blend Door Actuator Failure
030--In-Car Temperature Sensor Short
031--In-Car Temperature Sensor Open
040--Ambient Temperature Sensor Short
041--Ambient Temperature Sensor Open
050--Sunload Sensor Short

. Some heating and air conditioning control problems are solved just by running the self-test.

Thanks, but can you repeat that in Cars for Dummies? That totally confused me.

Try this and then you may better understand how "cool" and simple the fix may be:

. Turn ignition switch to RUN position.

. Push both OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously; then, press AUTO within two seconds.

. The test may run as long as 30 seconds, while the display will show a dashed line in the center of the display window.

. After about 20 seconds, a DTC will appear in the display. The self-test is completed when 888 appears in the center of the climate control display window of the ICP.

. Record any codes.

. Push both OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously; then, press AUTO within two seconds. Where do I find those buttons?

I'm a woman. I know how to put gas in the car and turn it on. **embarrassed**

On the air conditioner's control panel in the center of the car.

On the air conditioner's control panel in the center of the car.

Oops... I should have figured that out.

Now, I don't want the car actually running right?

Correct.

Nothing happened.

I was going to try to surprise my husband by fixing it myself, but I'll wait until he gets home from golfing and show this to him as I worked a long hard shift delivering babies last night and it's bedtime for me. Hopefully it's something that we can fix ourselves.

Do you have all of the buttons I mentioned?

Yes, I do.

The basic problem is that the blend door actuator controls a door that regulates the flow to each side of the car. Obviously, it's set in the wrong position. Usually, running the diagnostics and then turning the system off (not saving the codes) recalibrates things and you are "good to go." I don't feel it will require replacing the Blend Door Actuator. It's always possible Ford changed the diagnostic steps slightly on your model. Anyhow, that's my diagnosis of your problem. If you take it to the dealer, they should be able to solve the problem in several minutes.

The flow is fine. There is plenty of air coming out of each side, it's just that one side is cool (not cold) and the other side is hot.

Yes, it's a classic blend door problem.

So, most likely it is fixable without spending hundreds of dollars?

If you can find out the precise EATC diagnostic steps for your year, make, and model, you can likely solve it yourself in no time. If they tell you the actuator needs replacing, that's where the money starts to change hands. They are located deep under the dash and the clock starts to tick.

I'll get my husband to check this out when he gets home and fill you in on how it works out. Thank you so much for your help so far!

Great.

So far we've been told that the AC needs to be "charged" or that it needs to be replaced, but no one has suggested running diagnostics!

Most people are not familiar with EATC, which is very slick.

Keep in mind that compressors need to be replaced about every 100,000 miles--they do wear out. Also, never let anyone add freon who doesn't have a manifold gauge set. Stay away from anyone with a can of freon that comes with a gauge on it. It's best to recover the freon, evacuate the system (vacuum) for 30 minutes, and then refill with the specified amount of freon to the low pressure side of the system.

You are totally AWeSOME! I can't wait to show this to him. Hopefully I'll be driving in the Tennessee heat nice and cool soon!

Apparently the car needs a new compressor to the tune of about $1,000 and I can't afford that. However, while the mechanic was "checking it out" he filled with freon and said there was a leak. This was the 17th of August and the car is still blowing cold. Is this common?

On average, compressors last 100,000 miles. If you install a new compressor, empty the PAG oil that comes with it and refill with BG Universal Frigi-Quiet Refrigerant Oil (Part No. 7018). It's a superior product that will help your compressor last longer and perform better.

P.S. The majority of leaks in A/C systems are from the Shrader Valves in the low pressure or high pressure ports. Mechanics damage the valves by not attaching their manifold gauge set properly. Very easy to replace. These are often slow leaks because of the caps on top.

You should be able to buy a new Motorcraft compressor for around $370, BG Universal Frigi-Quiet Refrigerant Oil for $30, and $250 to recover, repair, evacuate, and refill the system.