View Full Version : Lawn chief 440M transaxle no reverse?
huntingdaddio
Jun 30, 2012, 03:23 PM
I was wondering if someone could explain to me why my newly purchased (of a 1993 Lawn Chief 440M) won't move in reverse. It shifts into the forward 5 gears and moves but when stopped and shifted to reverse, and it feels like it has shifted yet it does nothing. Could this possibly be fixed or am I looking at replacing a gear? This mower is a:
Lawn Chief 440
Model # 440M
Date Code: 32M
Sequence: 54828
Service # 237585
crigby
Jul 14, 2012, 07:59 PM
Hi,
Is this possibly a transmatic unit made by MTD? Shifter on the right fender? If so look inboard of the right rear wheel for a bolt thatholds the two parts of the shift linkage together. If there, loosen the bolt(7/16" wrench) and adjust appropriately.
Peace,
Clarke
huntingdaddio
Jul 14, 2012, 09:48 PM
Hello,
I have been trying to figure things out with the info I had been finding here and there online. In the time right after I posted my question, while waiting to see if someone could help me, I decided that I should get the back tire, that was losing pressure overnight, fixed. It wouldn't come off very easy and I was pounding the tire, while rotating it, with a rubber mallet. While I did get the rim off, I was suddenly able to pull the whole axle from that side out also. Thinking I had either broke or pulled the retainer ring off, I realized I now had to remove the transaxle, (which is a Foote Dana Spicer 4360-84 I found out) to fix that problem and I would be able to see what the inside looked like. After getting it off the mower and disassembling the transaxle and finding that I did damage the retainer ring, I picked it from the grease and started looking around inside to see if the gears, etc. looked OK. I found the two detent balls stuck down in the grease. I got them out and took apart and checked all the gears, which seemed to be in great shape and everything else seemed fine. I might add that some one at some time had to have this apart because there was what looked like a silicon sealant where the 2 halves come together. While I couldn't find out for sure that the detent balls not being in place was what was causing the shifting problem I was hoping that it might be that simple. So after a little studying to find out the best way was to remove the detent balls and springs and then simply drop them back into place once the transaxle was reassembled and redo the set screw, I set out to do so. Well the problem I am fighting right now is the set screws which will not come out. After making several different attempts at removing them and having used the first 4 of 5 ways to remove them, I have come to the conclusion that I am going to have to use #5 and drill them out and replace them. While I was cleaning the damaged screw heads off (with some carb cleaner) so I could hopefully do a good drill job to save the threads, I noticed what looked kind of an orange color around the screws. I thought this was maybe a thread hardener (tightener) which is why I couldn't get it undone but don't know for sure. Anyway that is where I am with the project of getting the Lawn Chief going again. By the way this 1993 mower was made by General Power Equipment for True Value which was later purchased by MTD. I did look under the shifter fender and did see where the 2 rods are connected but it looked like the 2 nuts and bolts made a straight connection. I can still take that apart and check that if it comes up shifting the same after all this so thanks.
crigby
Jul 15, 2012, 06:41 AM
Hi,
Okay, totally different critter. What you saw at the set screws is indeed a thread sealant. The cure is heat. A good propane torch(even better if the fuel is MAPP gas used judiciously) or a careful wielding of an oxy-acetylene torch to the top transaxle housing will soften it and make the set screws easily removeable. Incidentally, if you would the balls stuck, presence of rust? Common at the age mentioned. This about the time that a rust-inhibitor was added to the grease(cause OEM manufacturers stored completed machines out in the weather and some designs allowed rain to enter at shift shaft.)
I will see if I can attach the parts breakdown in pdf. In this critter the shifting is done through the use of keys(#22) that select the gears(speeds), neutral or reverse. By the nature of things, meshed gears rotate in opposite directions. The solution to achieve reverse is the chain(#18) and sprockets(#41- drive and #27-driven) since they will rotate in the same direction. Suggest you check for a broken chain, damaged shaft that the drive sprocket is attached to, sprocket itself or damaged keys or driven sprocket. Clean unit and replace grease with the new variety(I have seen people use the synthetics from Shell - blue and Havoline - red instead.)
Peace,
Clarke
huntingdaddio
Aug 18, 2012, 03:13 PM
Ok, I finally had the time and got into the transaxle and found that one of the detent springs was bent and jammed in the detent ball/spring hole. I should start by saying I could not get the set screws out because whoever owned it before me had used some sort of thread lock or something and I could not break them loose so I had to take the transaxle apart to get to the detent ball and spring. I later found out I could get them out by heating around them with a butane torch which I did to get the screws out. Now after finding the damaged spring I looked around at some local machine places that had different springs and while I did not find the exact match I was able to get some that were very close. I also got new set screws. I then checked the gear setup with the parts diagram and everything looked very good. I put everything back together and placed it back on the mower. After getting everything ready I tried starting it and found the battery to be dead so I thought I was going to push it closer to the garage and give it a charge. That is when I found out that now I cannot find a nuetral in it just to push it. I removed the linkage thinking maybe I did not have it exactly right and so I could just reach up under and shift it by hand and found again that no matter where I clicked (shifted) it to it was in gear and could not be pushed. Does anyone know if there is a certain tightness the set screws should be set at or if I had to get the same springs ro any other thing that could be causing this?
crigby
Aug 25, 2012, 11:10 AM
Hi,
I would respectfully say that your brake is too tight.
Peace,
Clarke