When changing the front rotors and brake pads in dual piston rotors on a subaru legacy GT is there anything special you need to do or use? I replaced them last night and they are very squeeky and the passenger side is getting very hot? Any ideas as to why?

The passenger side pads are likely not retracting properly and are binding. The items below should help you do a first-class brake repair:

. Clean Cosmoline off the new rotors with brake cleaner and a rag.

. Ensure the new pads don't bind in the caliper bracket or with the shims. Remove caliper bracket and clean rust from the slide surfaces on the caliper bracket. Clean rust and dirt from old shims with a wire wheel. It's best to use new shims. Use a file, bench grinder, or wire wheel, as necessary, to prevent the metal backing plate surfaces from binding. Only remove metal from the backing plate.

. Remove, clean, and lubricate caliper pins with silicone grease or Squeak Relief. Regular grease will dry out and bind.

. Lubricate metal mounting/rubbing surfaces on backing plate with Squeak Relief or 3M Brake Lube/Anti-Seize Copper (08945).

. Insure pistons retract properly. If not, rebuild calipers or install remanufactured calipers.

. Remove shim from back of pad mounting plate, apply anti-squeak compound (e.g. Squeak Relief) to inside shim surface, and reassemble.

. Change brake fluid, to help the caliper pistons operate smoothly and not bind.

Hopefully, you installed ceramic, not semi-metallic, pads. Semi-metallic pads squeak and generate much more heat. Squeak Relief is silicone grease with moly. It can be used on all brake lubrication needs.

How can I tell if the pads have binded? Sorry for the stupid questions, I am just doing a lot of repairs myself. Also, how can you tell if the pistons are retracting properly?

There should be free back-and-forth movement of the pads in the caliper bracket. On your car, the shims fasten to the caliper bracket--the backing plate to the pads rest on the shims. Basically, everything should have a little bit of slop. This allows the pads to move in and out freely. Most binding problems will be with the caliper pins not being cleaned and properly lubricated and the pads binding in the caliper bracket.

I use 6" needle-nose vise grips, covered with 3/8" tubing, to clamp off the brake line. With the caliper removed and the bleeder valve opened, your disk brake pad spreader should easily be able to seat the piston in the caliper. If there's a problem, the caliper should be rebuilt or replaced.

When I went and bought the brake grease the guy said it could also be my barrings? Is that possible or was he jumping to conclusions? Since I have driven the car I was also told I need to have the rotors turned? But they are brand new? Do I need to turn them?

If the rotors are brand new, there's no need to turn them. Also, I've never heard a wheel bearing squeak--it's more of a whine. The wheel bearings on that car are beefy and very durable. How many miles are on the car?

There is 196,000 on the car, it has had all kinds of new parts put into it? Transmission, rebuilt engine etc, I am not sure how many miles all of the new stuff has on it? I had put new pads on in march but the rotors were looking rough so we changed them, and since we were under there put in new pads. I have the tire off now and am starting to work on it, with the directions you gave me. Should I do this to both sides or just the one having problems?

Tackle the problem wheel first. What kind of grease did you buy for the caliper pins?

I bought what's called brake grease?

Probably made by CRC (synthetic caliper grease) or one of those packets from AutoZone.