This ge dryer appears to be getting hot and shutting off midcycle (any) before the cycle has finished. The vent has a flapper on it but is otherwise not lint laiden or obstructed. The timers and or motors power source seems to be interupted during the shut off period, as oppsed to the heating element. The timer was just replaced and it did the same thing afterward. Turn it on first thing in the morning and sometimes it will go an entire cycle, but try to dry successive loads and it starts to shut down every five minutes just to be able to restart it with the start knob after it cools down a little not completely. If the door switch was not working I would no think that it would work at all. She insists on putting a small thick rug on top of the dryer with a medium sized plant on it and when it shuts down and I lift the rug it is pretty hot t othe touch. Any idea as to which thermostat it might be or the proper way to test it. And if you test it would it have to be hot in order to detect an open circuit? Thanks mike

Sounds like the motor might be overheating. CLEAN all dust/lint from dryer and motor. Use vacuum and I also use compressed air to blow out the motor. You would be surprised at how much lint gets into the motor that will not come out with a vacuum.
Next make sure your pipe to outside is clean and not obstructed. The dryer needs a good flow of discharge air to work properly and keep the motor cool also.

It's dirty and lint deposits have built up, as it always does, in all the air ducts which cause the hi-limit to trip. A little vacuuming out does nothing. You will have to take it apart and clean it really well or it is all for nothing. Every air duct will have to be removed and scraped and washed out to remove baked on lint deposits which is like a concrete lining. This will burn so the manufacturer has installed the safeties to keep from having a house fire. The safeties are oval-shaped with a round center part containing the safety with two plug-on terminals for the wires and when they burn open or trip, from the dryer being dirty, nothing will work. Yours is going off on hi-limit which cuts it off at 250 degrees. Using an ohm meter you put a lead on each terminal of the safety, with one wire unplugged, and if it's good you will have a reading of about zero; if it's bad it will read infinity. Driers were the number one cause of fires at one time, hence now we have safety fuses. Apparently yours is resettable. Look at: How to clean your clothes dryer. How to make it hot again. - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMP7BW1lLs4) to see how. Also: Mr. Appliance Tips: How to Clean Your Dryer - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iBiRw-KElC4) ; Cleaning a Dryer Vent and Lint Trap - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yFTZGgVisCI)
Electric Clothes Dryers (http://www.electrical-forensics.com/Dryer/ElectricClothesDryers.html)
Whirlpool Dryer Model LE5800XSW3 Wiring Diagram | Dryer Repair | Fixitnow.com Samurai Appliance Repair Man (http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/10/09/whirlpool-dryer-model-le5800xsw3-wiring-diagram/)
When you finish cleaning the drier it is best to also replace the belt, too, because you do not want to have to disassemble it all over again and if the belt is over two years old you should replace it.

Note that on most of the videos it does not show them washing out the parts, but this is important because it's the only way to really get the parts clean, just don't get motor wet or the capacitor if it has one. Vacuum out the motor to remove all dust. I would move the drier out to your garage to have plenty of space to work. You also want to check your vent and clean it, also. The vent should have a short run and be straight as possible. The job is really easier than it sounds. There is no shortcut that will work; it has to be cleaned well. Before you re-assemble it make sure to use white lithium grease (high-temp grease) and grease all bearings. DrTom4444