My home was built in the 1930's. We have a floor drain in our basement that only leaks after a steady rain. (We have NO water coming up after flushing toilets, dishwasher use, showering, laundry, etc). The water that does come up through the drain is not smelly and there is no floating debris in it. It does not flood the basement, but rather seeps out of the drain, extends a few feet, and then recedes back down into the drain.

This is not a modern drain. Once you lift off the cover grate the opening is only apx. 2" wide (see attached pictures) and a "ball valve" has been installed at some point by a previous homeowner. There is a second opening on the inside edge of the drain. A plumber told me this had a cap at one time. Since then, it has been broken off or removed. Regardless, the threading is warped making it nearly impossible to thread a new cap over its opening. This opening on the inside edge is where the water is coming up from. We have had two plumbers come out for diagnosis and to give a repair estimate. Both feel the drain needs to be replaced. Both recommend jack-hammering the cement around the drain to remove it. The first plumber wants to snake the pipe after the old drain has been removed (he said the current drain opening is too small to snake it now). Then finish up by capping off the drain and filling it in with cement. The second plumber recommends installing a new drain. He wants to run a camera through our line to check for blockages that may be causing the backflow as well. He also stated that it is possible the water is coming from extra ground water below our house and maybe it's not from the sanitary sewer line.

The first plumber quoted $1,060 and the second plumber quoted $1,350 (which includes running the camera).

Both plumbers feel the drain is connected to our sanitary sewer line.

Also, our older home still has its gutter downspouts flowing down into the ground through pipes. We are planning on removing the flow into these pipes, and redirecting the downspouts out into our yard.

My husband and I want to fix this problem, but worry at the unexpected expense. We have no plumbing experience and want to make sure that everything they are quoting us is absolutely necessary. The pressure of water coming up is minimal...the water rises slowly.

My questions are:
1. Is it worth the cost of running a camera through our line? If there is a blockage (we do have large trees in our front yard) wouldn't we experience water leaking out of the drain more regularly? Not just when it has rained for 24 hours? From the $1,350 total repair cost, $480 of it comes from the camera job.

2. I have researched "flood guard" valves that can be installed rather cheaply over an existing drain. However, would these types of guards work/fit on my old drain?

3. Would a "stand pipe" be a viable, and less expensive, option?

4. Instead of replacing the whole drain (and avoid jack-hammering) can the opening on the inside edge of the drain (the one in which the old cap has been broken off) just be sealed using cement of some sort? Or perhaps, purchasing some sort of pipe plug? Is it really necessary to replace the whole drain?

I would love to simply seal off this drain somehow, redirect the gutter downspouts and see if that corrects the problem. I just don't want to end up with a major sewer problem down the road... is that likely? Also, I really don't want to spend over $1,000 right now on repairs that may not be absolutely necessary at this time. Please see my attached pictures of my drain for extra clarity. I uploaded them to a Google Web Album that may be viewed here:

https://profiles.google.com/108341516319030720322/photos?np=1&hl=en-US

Thank you, thank you and I appreciate all thoughts...

We have a floor drain in our basement that only leaks after a steady rain. This tells me that your rain runoff may be connected to your sewer line. This would be a illegal connection in my area and out of code.

It does not flood the basement, but rather seeps out of the drain, extends a few feet, and then recedes back down Sounds like a partial blockage in your sewer line. I would have it snaked.

Once you lift off the cover grate the opening is only apx. 2" wide (see attached pictures) and a "ball valve" has been installed at some point by a previous homeowner. There is a second opening on the inside edge of the drain. A plumber told me this had a cap at one time. Since then, it has been broken off or removed. Regardless, the threading is warped making it nearly impossible to thread a new cap over its opening. This opening on the inside edge is where the water is coming up from. That cap is a clean out for the floor drain and if left open is a direct open line between your home and the sewer allowing sewer gas to enter your home. And the Flood Guard,(ball valve) tells you that there was backups before.

4. Instead of replacing the whole drain (and avoid jack-hammering) can the opening on the inside edge of the drain (the one in which the old cap has been broken off) just be sealed using cement of some sort? Or perhaps, purchasing some sort of pipe plug? Is it really necessary to replace the whole drain?
BINGO! Forget the plumbers and their thousands of dollars of charges. You don't need that kind of expense and hassle of tearing up your floor.
Here's what I would do, Stuff rags down the trap and clean out to seal them off. Next I would fill the floor drain with Hydrolytic Cement and if the floor sloped to the drain I would float it level with the rest of the floor.
Forget the camera but I would have the sewer line snaked. You have now saved thousands band cheated one unhappy plumber out of a Aruba vacation. Glade for you. Sad for him! Good luck, Tom

"Both plumbers feel the drain is connected to our sanitary sewer line" plumbers do not have to "feel" the line is connected to the sewer, there are simple dye tests that can be done. I'd look for another plumber who can tell for sure. I have never disagreed with Tom but my own experience tells me to not cap off that floor drain just yet. You have not mentioned but do you have a sump pump?

Hey Bob,
Of course the floor drain's connected to the main drain. What else?
In#4 the OP states that he'd rather simply cap off the drain and not undergo the expense of tearing up[ his floor. What would you have him do? Back to you, Tom

Yes, we do have a sump pump. I read somewhere that if I seal off the floor drain completely it may prohibit me from detecting a plumbing blockage in the sewer system until it's a real problem. Is that true? Or if there was a real problem, would I be alerted to it in other ways BEFORE it was out of control?

Another question about the "floor guards" I have read about: Do this typically fit on older drains like mine, or are they suited for more modern drains? Also, do I even need a "floor guard" if I seal off the open "clean out" hole in which the water is flowing up from. The main drain opening already has a ball valve that appears to be working properly.

Your answers are greatly appreciated! Also, what is the difference between having the lines "snaked" and having them inspected by a camera? Does snaking a line clean out small root growths? If the plumber sends a camera down there are finds blockage will he clear it at that time or charge me a separate fee?

Oops... I meant to type "flood guards"

what is the difference between having the lines "snaked" and having them inspected by a camera? About $300.00 if the price given to another asker on this page. I believe the plumbers charge to cam the sewer line was over $450.00.

Also, do I even need a "floor guard" if I seal off the open "clean out" hole in which the water is flowing up from. I keep telling you that that hole MUST be sealed off or you will get sewer gas escaping from it.

do I even need a "floor guard" if I seal off the open "clean out" hole in which the water is flowing up from?
You do if you want to control backups.

if I seal off the floor drain completely it may prohibit me from detecting a plumbing blockage in the sewer system until it's a real problem. Is that true? Or if there was a real problem, would I be alerted to it in other ways BEFORE it was out of control? This clean out hole isn't some kind of "first alert" system. The hole MUST be sealed off to prevent sewer gas from escaping.
Perhaps you can thread a PVC plug into the hole. I see no reason to replace the floor drain since it appears to be working OK. I would .however , have the sewer line snaked and cleared. If you seal off the drain with cement and you had a block age it would simply back up out of the lowest fixture. But I really think that snaking the liner would solve your problem. Good luck, nTom

Hey Tom, you have been in Florida a long time but I am sure you remmber the terrain back in Illinois and Wisconsin. In our hilly terrain floor drains could gravity drain to open air if this is a hillside. OP now states he has a sump pump so lets get him to test to see if the loor is connected to the sump as it should be. During recent heavy rains in Illinois some folks plugged florr drains to stop flooding in their basement. Hydrostatic pressure from the trapped water below literally exploded their floors upward. Back to you elong, when water is backing up out that floor drain what is the status of your sump pump pit, is it full and pumping or what?

Good point Bob. Thanks for bringing it up. Cheers, Tom

Our sump pump has always worked correctly and it is pretty quiet. In our previous home, we could always hear the sump pump emptying. Our new house, however, we don't hear that sound. Therefore, as far as I know our sump pump is working properly and flushing water out the way it should. FYI: I live in Indiana, and our home is perched on somewhat of hill in comparison to the other homes in our neighborhood.

Tom, I think I need to clarify what I mean when I discuss sealing off the open cap. When I seal off the cap (to close the direct access to our sewer line and its smell) should that correct our problem? That appears to be where the water is entering. If the cap is sealed is it still necessary to fill the whole drain with cement? Also, is it even necessary to buy a "flood guard" to place over the whole drain? Should sealing that small cap be our remedy? That, and also redirecting our downspouts.

Plugging the clean out hole in your floor drain would simply put it back in working order. Use a PVC plug 6that could tap into the threads.
I think that redirecting your downspouts would take care of your backup but if you still have concerns you could install a Flood Guard for added insurance. Do I think you need your floor torn up and a new drain installed? NO I don't. From what you tell me the floor drain, with the exception of the open cleanout, is acting normally. You can repair the floor drain and use it or you can seal it closed with cement. What's your pleasure? Back to you, Tom

Elong, if you can't hear your sump how do you know its working? Easy enough just go stand by the hole and watch the pit slowly fil. The float should kick in when the water level raised to a certain level then expel the water. From your first post " is not smelly and there is no floating debris in it" so I am still thinking this is a water table issue when it rains and not sewage, or did I mis something in your pst?