The vehicle was running fine, but did not start after being off for several days.
There is no spark at any plug.

I have checked and double checked all fuses.
Coil resistance is within tolerance, and is getting battery voltage, and battery is charged
Igniter has been replaced, Distributer Cap has been replaced, ICM has been swapped.
There are no codes flashing. After turning the car over, I can smell raw fuel at the exaust, so I don't think it is fuel related. I hear (feel) 3 clicks from the main relay for the fuel pump cycling on (I hear the fuel pump), then off, and when the starter is engaged. The distributor is rotating.

I know there have been lots of reported cases of the main relay going bad, but it seems to be working, as described by the 3 clicks, and also getting raw fuel at exaust.

Could this still be the main relay? I also wonder about the coil, which is IN the dist (Toyo) but also tests fine. Most confusing since there are no codes but NO Spark either.

Am I missing something?

If the CEL comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), the problem is likely distributor related. Usually, replacing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil solves the problem. Bench testing these components is virtually useless. If the problem persists, install the new ICM and coil in a genuine Honda distributor housing--all others are suspect.

CEL does come on for 2 seconds and then goes out with ignition switch in position II.
The coil has already been replaced, so I will look for an ICM on line.
The original distributor was replaced around 5 years ago, and I don't remember if it was an original Honda housing. I'm pretty sure it was a rebuild of an old Toyo, but I don't have the original to compare to now.

Oops, I meant that I replaced the igniter, not the coil. Looking at a picture online, this sure looks like the same thing as the ICM. I had to re-use the heat sink from the old part with the new part.

Be sure to apply silicone heat transfer grease to the back of the ICM; otherwise, it won't last long.

TxGreaseMonkey you are a Rock Star. Installed the new coil and good to go.
For some reason, since the coil is part of the distributor, I did not consider that
As a quick and easy thing to start with. Back in the day replacing condenser, points and
Coil was a no brainer.

I'd rather have a bit of humility and a running car!

However, On the test drive, I did notice that the Tachometer is out of whack, ranging wildly. I thought I saw that one of the connections to the igniter goes to the tach. Could that be it?

Thanks Again.

Yes, the BLU wire on the ICM goes to the tachometer.

It's a good idea to clean the connectors going to the ICM with abrasive cloth, crimp the connectors lightly with pliers, and apply a thin coating of dielectric grease. All connections should be tight.