I have a 1980's vintage integral vanity basin and counter top made of some type of artificial stone. It's like, but probably not Corian - it's not as high quality. Maybe it's some other acrylic. The basin is all crazed and I need to replace it. My idea is to cut it out with a jigsaw and replace it with a drop-in vitreous china basin. Has anyone ever tried this? I see in other posts cautious instructions for how to cut Corian. Can I follow these? Any idea what the material could be, if not Corian? I'm trying to avoid pulling out and replacing the whole vanity. It's an odd size and it's built in. I'm looking for something easier and cheaper.
Thanks
Webbster

Based on the vintage it's probably a cultured marble. And it most likely has cracks and discoloration in the drain area. You can cut out the sink but remember it will be heavy so use a support. Pull the faucet and drain assembly. Drill a series of holes slightly around and below the rim, so that they angle down toward the cabinet interior. Depending on the sink you choose, the template will show you how big and what shape you need. You may have to top drill the bowl . Make sure there are 2 holes connected or as close as possible. Use a Sawzall to cut between the holes using a bimetal blade. Once the old bowl drops out, you can silicone a drop in sink. You may have to cut more of the top depending on the faucet placement, but I have done this before, in fact, just did it with a double vanity and installed 2 American Standard oval drop ins.

I did this same fix a few years back. Two issue to watch for, place tape on the surface 2" each side of your cut. That jig saw vibrates and will leave scratches. Make a jig for your dropin, most come with one, and insure it will leave enough material around all edges to the vanity surface will not crack at its weakest spot, likely the front edge. Caulk that front edge from underneath so it can't deflect at all if weight is put on it.

Thanks, guys. This looks like something I can take on, maybe next week. Will let you know the outcome.
Webbster

Update:
Just finished this job, with good outcome. I didn't have a good Sawzall, so used a jigsaw. A course, 6 tpi bimetal blade at medium speed worked pretty good. Cut was clean, but slow. It took 1 1/2 hr to finish the cutout. I used a shop vac connection to the jigsaw to keep the dust down. This, and the course blade which chipped vs. ground the material, virtually eliminated dusting which was important since this was in a bedroom. The only surprise was finding that the counter top was not entirely flat. The sink rocked about 0.10" front to back when dropped in. I used layers of aluminum sheet, cut on the same oval arc as the template, to shim up the back. Now the sink is stable, and with caulk applied, looks like a professional job.

To anyone considering this, be aware that the new sink drain is not likely to be in the same position as the old sink. Mine was 1 1/2" forward of the old drain. So be prepared to cut and modify the drain piping. It's not too difficult, and the materials are inexpensive.

Thanks again for your advice above. Without it, I probably would not have tried this.

Webbster.

Update:
Just finished this job, with good outcome. I didn't have a good Sawzall, so used a jigsaw. A course, 6 tpi bimetal blade at medium speed worked pretty good. Cut was clean, but slow. It took 1 1/2 hr to finish the cutout. I used a shop vac connection to the jigsaw to keep the dust down. This, and the course blade which chipped vs. ground the material, virtually eliminated dusting which was important since this was in a bedroom. The only surprise was finding that the counter top was not entirely flat. The sink rocked about 0.10" front to back when dropped in. I used layers of aluminum sheet, cut on the same oval arc as the template, to shim up the back. Now the sink is stable, and with caulk applied, looks like a professional job.

To anyone considering this, be aware that the new sink drain is not likely to be in the same position as the old sink. Mine was 1 1/2" forward of the old drain. So be prepared to cut and modify the drain piping. It's not too difficult, and the materials are inexpensive.

Thanks again for your advice above. Without it, I probably would not have tried this.

Webbster.

Glad it worked, good idea for shimming but yes, 1.5 hrs is a slow cut.