Maytag refrigerator Model # PSD267LHES not cooling on the fridge side. I have looked in forums before this and have replaced the ADC board. The freezer coils are fully icing over and not letting the fridge cool. I have defrosted the freezer coils twice and it will work until the coils freeze over again. I need to know how to test the defroster element and the defrost timer. Specificly ohm and continuity, what they are supposed to be at. I have cleaned all the coils under and around the fridge. No odd noise is coming from the fridge. I have forced defrost by turning cooling control on and off twice within 6 seconds but I can't tell if the element is warming enough or at all. Any help would be appreciated...

Usually the self defrost system is at fault and as a service person I always replaced the defrost element and what is called the defrost bi-metal OR defrost thermostat disc at the same time to cure this problem or at least get a start of the problem. Over the years I found that if you just replaced one and not the other the one that was not replaced will eventually fail causing a call back to fix it again.

Now if you really want to test the defrost system hook your meter up to the two wires for the heat element and when you call for defrost you should see line voltage across those two wires and if not bypass the defrost thermostat and then check for voltage. Where ever the voltage stops is the defective device. Never cared about OHM'S etc since the circuit is either on or off or open or closed as in working or not working. Pretty simple stuff.


Another great tool to use is an Clamp Amp meter or Amprobe. It will tell you right away is the system is working by sensing the current draw of the heater.

Unhook the defrost heater and put the leads of the ohm meter across it, one lead on each end. It will read continuity if it is good and infinity if it is bad. Look at the name plate and see if it lists the amperage for defrost. If it says 10 amps you can look to have 12 ohms resistance on the heater. Less than 10 amps will mean that the ohms will be higher since you divide ohms into voltage to get amps. If the heater is bad replace both the terminator and the heater since the terminator will be almost burned up also. To test the defrost timer put the meter on volts and put one lead on each wire before the terminator, as it will open when it is above 32°. When in defrost it will read 120 volts, if not, replace it. Make sure to keep the coils clean under the refrigerator, too. If it is old enough to need service you can bet it's dirty also. It should be cleaned often. This should fix the problem. Don't ever blindly replace parts. DrTom4444

Thank you both for your answers... I will try these diagnostics and see what I come up with.. I like to take pride in my work and diagnose the problem before I replace the part. I am a senior car mechanic and I don't know much about appliances, but like to repair if I can. I just don't know what all these parts look like or are located. Thanks again, I will repost again. Mech11

You can go on the internet and get a diagram of the refrigerator so you can see where everything is located. The defrost heater is wrapped around the coils in the freezer and the defrost terminator t-stat is hooked to it and attached to the coils to sense when it is above freezing. The defrost timer can be located under the unit and if it is the old type it has a one-way plastic screw slot to turn the timer wheel and put the unit in defrost cycle. When you turn it you will hear it clicking and when it gets to the defrost point it will shut off the compressor and the freezer fan. It is very sensitive and only takes about 2-3° of the rotation in defrost. When you have the cover to the freezer coils removed if the defrost heater or terminator is bad it will not heat, but you have to ohm it out to be sure it is not the fault of the timer. (unplug it to do this) It's all simple and you should have no problem diagnosing it and replacing the correct parts. DrTom4444

Find the manual here: www.applianceblog.com/manuals/16025628.pdf DrTom4444

Thank you DrTom4444... I will pull that PDF file up.

It looks as if the defrost timer took care of the problem. Clipped on the new one and connected wires with solder and heat shrink... condenser in freezer has not iced over again yet...

It looks as if the defrost timer has fixed my problem... clipped on new one soldered wires and heat shrunk. Freezer condenser has not froze over yet...

Thank you all for your time and expertise... VERY helpful!

You should not have had to solder in a new one, but I am glad you got it working. We normally use crimp-on connectors. DrTom4444

I am glad that fixed the problem. Keep the coils clean under the unit and it should last a long time. DrTom4444