OK, the car wouldn't start and I determined it was the starter by tapping on it while someone engaged the ignition.
It started but the drive gear didn't pull back in the starter so I turned the igntion off
BUT
The starter kept turning the engine over even when the ignition was turned off,
I finally stopped it by turning the key off and on a few times.
So I put a new starter in and here's what happened

This is from a prior post here.
After putting a new starter in:
OK...
Good newz and bad newz...
The new starter works like a charm!
The bad is when it starts up and in park it now idles at about 2200rpm for about 10-15 seconds, drops to around 1200ish
And then the idle yoyo's up and down constantly from 1200 to 1700ish rpm.
If I hit the gas quickly before it does the up-n-down
It just goes right to the up/down idle yoyo thingy.
Ive checked the 2 throttle cables and they're OK, they weren't yanked around or anything like that when the starter was replaced.
I looked in the starter area for something that may have gotten pulled loose and there's really not much down around the starter that could get pulled loose like vacuum hoses etc etc? And I didn't see anything.
Hopefully this is a simpler prob than the starter issue
And more important---> Cheaper than the starter!

By the way... some one suggested this in my starter post:
Here is something you might have forgotten. With most newer cars they save a profile (meaning average) for running the engine. Since you replaced the starter you have had the battery disconnected for some time (and cleaned the terminals ) so try driving it for a few miles and under different loads. Like stop signs and maybe a freeway exit or so. That way it can reaquire the profile before you try anything else.


Several times for extended periods Ive had the battery disconnected before and the only thing I had to do was reset the radio code
I did take the car for a test drive and took it through different driving conditions slow in city and hiways speeds, differnet gears.
The lowest tach readings were @1200ish RPMs
The car is like its on constant turbo charge all the time lol!

The 2 times the starter wouldn't quit turning the engine over even when I had the ignition turned off is the only thing I can think of that may have caused something to get out of whack? The amount of time it did this may have been 10-15 seconds

You likely have air in the cooling system. Fill the radiator with coolant, until it comes out of the bleeder screw.

We meet again O'Oily primate :D

You know that's ringing a bell.
As I was under the hood I checked the level in the radiator and it was low by a quart or better.
I quickly tossed in some RO water,not coolant because I plan and putting in new coolant in the entire system pretty soon.
By the way, wheres' the bleeder valve?
Somewhere near the top I would take it... I'll go and look.
Man it would be super if that's it

Thnxs ma man
I'l post as soon as I can get to it as let you know how it goes.
By the way, I'm a want to know the why's of things.
If you have time and its not too long can you tell me how air in the cooling system affects the idle?
If it was a qt low wouldn't that let air in the system

I just found this info with an online search looking for the bleeder screw on my 98 accord,
Is this accurate?

after 1995, Honda stop using the coolant bleed screw.
Just run the engine with radiator cap off for 30 minutes, keeping the
coolant level topped of.
You should hear the fan come on 2-3 times.

Replace cap and make sure overflow tank is at "hot" level.

Air in the system plays havoc with the ECM, since it affects the readings coming from the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor.

I think your Accord has a bleeder bolt. Follow the top radiator hose to where it connects to the block. Your alternative approach should work, but it wastes a lot of gas.

I saw that tx, where the top hose attaches to the forged nipple going into the block there's an inch hi or so post on top of it with a screw in it holding a flat piece of metal that looks like some type of brace for something or another.
I'll try later and post this evening on the results.
I guess opening the rad.cap with the level a Qt lower let the air in, sounds reasonable

Thanks again my friend!
Tc

I would check the mass airflow sensor my car did something similar to your that's why I am suggesting it. Good luck

I tried to bleed the air out through the radiator, I could find the bleed valve. Its not where the top or bottom radiator hoses go back to the block.
After about 20 minutes of trying to bleed the air out the idle stopped yoyoing
But you can still hear the engine, very quickly sounding like a tired dog panting going up and down but the rpm doesn't yoyo with it.
Best way to describe the sound is like runrunrunrunrunrun, it maked this sound 2-3 times a second.
If I turn the engine off when its hot and restart, it still jumps up to 2500rpm and within 10 seconds or so goes back to the idle surge... but after another 10 seconds or so it starts the runrunrunrun engine sound.
I don't think I got all the air bubbles out yet, it's a mess trying to bleed through the radiator.
When the rad-fans come on the coolant sucks into the radiator then over flows when when they stop.
So from a 16oz water bottle I cut the bottom off to make a rough funnel and wrapped duct tape around the thread part to make it fit snug in the radiator then filled it 1/2 way with fluid. It still leaked but but I could see even more bubbles coming out.
I had to add quite a bit of fluid back into the radiator as it bubbled, there must have been a lot of air trapped in the block and I suspect there might be some type of air bubble in there...
It got dark and I wrapped it up.
I wish I could find the bleed valve on this thing, the post with the screw in it I described above wasn't it, just held a brace for a thingybobbber.
A friend said it looks like the bleeder on the brakes at the wheels and said it may be somewhere on the intake manifold?
I'm going out now to see how it does from a cold start.

Oh.. when I turned the heater on when I tried to bleed the system.

OK, started it cold and the idle didn't jump to 2500rpm and then got to the yoyo
It started at 1200 rpm then slowly climbed to 1500 over 10-15 seconds then the up/down idle yoyo started again but from 1500-1700 but as the car warmed up it went back to the original 1200-1700 up/down as the car warmed.
Looked again for the bleeder valve wher the rad-hoses return to the block.
Where the bottom rad-hose returned there's a small water line hose that goes to what looks like a señor attached and under the throttle body where air goes in the engine? And comes out of the sensor and returns to the block.
This is the only place I can see where thesystem could be opend up and bled.
This little water line isa few inches higher than the radiator cap.
Can there be an air bubble trapped up in this line?

At the top of this post i said i could find the bleeder valve, should have been couldn't find it.
I wish we could edit our post...

Check the Fast Idle Thermo Valve, Item 1, in the link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-7.html#post842969

I'm going to get a chiltons or a haynes for the honda tomorrow so I can locate these sensors etc etc.
Is one better than the other for a honda?

Also in you last link it says if the check engine light is on to fix that before doing anything.
Its been on for a few years now and with the new prob the engine lite next to it is also on.
I thought someone said once the check engine lite comes on at certain milage point for required maintenance? Is this so, is there a reste button for it?

Once again thanks for everything you do here and I'll get the haynes manual and be better prepared to check on these sensors.

I prefer the Haynes Manual. Definitely solve the CEL issue first.

OK, got me a haynes and I went to 2 different places and had the puter scanned and the code that came up is P0505 which is a vacuum leak.
I'll take a look at the haynes and see where the Fast Idle Thermo Valve is located and make sure the its not leaking air and causing the idle flucuations as listed in the link tex.
If that's not it I'll check all my lines but I don't think they're the prob.
Ive already looked at everything I could see.
Maybe the AICV would be next on the list to consider then?

Someone told me my 98 accrd doesn't have a fast idle thermo vale, just the aicv?
If I replace the iacv is autozone an OK place to get one?
Or is there a brand that's preferable?

Check to make sure that all of the hoses are connected I has a nissan but it's pretty similar to your honda, I replaced my starter and had the same problem. My problem was that there was a real tiny hose that plugs into the intake hose. Check that

AutoZone should be fine.

Definitely solve the CEL issue first.
After getting the P0505 code, they cleared them so the CEL isn't on any more.


Looking at my haynes to see if I can find the fast idle thermo valve I haven't found it.
Under list of information sensors 22 of them and output actuators 6 of those there is no fast idle thermo valve on my accord so I guess I'm going to get an AICV and replace it.

One more Q before I install the new $100 iacv,
It controls a small motor... could that be bad?
Is there a way to test it, I'm sure there is but I would hate to find out it's the motor and
Have to drop another C-note on the car..
Seems like everything costs a $100 bucks or more on a honda :D

Try tapping the stepper motor, which is part of the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV), with the handle of a screwdriver. If the idle rpm changes, replace the IACV.

The Fast Idle Thermo Valve is located just to the left of the IACV, as you face the engine. Check the Fast Idle Thermo Valve first--simple to do.

I tried lightly tapping on the iacv a few days ago and nothing was affected.
I'm sure my 98 accord V6 model doesn't have the fast idle thermo valve on it anymore.
The only thing to the left of the iacv is an FIA-fuel injection air valve and a bit further away the ERG.
At any rate Ive got the throettle body off now and the gasket for it they gave me is the throttlebody to spacer gasket, not the one that goes to the intake/plenum.
Called and one place only sells it in the intake gasket kit.
Other place said 2 days and I get 4 of them,
I looked at them online, one has the proper bolt pattern but it doesn't really match the original that blocks off most of the open space on the throttle body that goes to the iacv... funfunfun.
The gasket is still stuck to the intake but I don't think its wise to try and reuse it.
I could make my own if I had some stock gasket material...

Check the mass airflow sensor sometimes they don't throw codes

I can't believe your problem is not covered by this link:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-14.html#post2581995

Thanks for that link Tx,
All your links Ive run across in other posts here I've saved in my honda folder.

Well good news and more good news :)
Even honda didn't have the Tbody gasket because it was a 98 and not stocked but the parts guys said there may be one in a ERG kit and would let me have it if it was there
It was
And when I got home I had the IACV on in no time and ready for the acid test...
It runs like a champ! :D:D:D
A big thanks to everyone here that's helped me, especially O'Oily Primate from the Republic Of Texas
I must of saved a few 2 or 3 hundred $mackers doing it myself.

The engine lite is staying off so that's good.
The manit lite has been on, how do I turn that one off?

Nice job. I'm not sure what the manit lite is.

Oops... yeah manit is confusing
I meant the yellow *maintenance required* lite that's right next to the check engine lite.
Its abbreviated in the dash as MAINT REQ'D

Read in your Owner's Manual what you need to do to turn that light off--it should be simple.