I have a 1993 honda dx, with a D16Y8 swap, two o2 sensor wires touched and fried the q31 resister on my ecu, so I changed my ecu a couple times with a p75 chipped, p28 virgin, and also a p28 chipped and some other ecus, and no spark on any, so I changed my distributor setup since the coil is internal, still no spark, then I changed the main relay and still no spark, and all fuses look fine... what am I missing..? Please help!!

. Test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-3.html#post252145

Visual inspection is not good enough.

. Focus on the igniter and coil, if the CEL comes on and goes off normally.

EXAMPLE: Diagnosing an Engine That Cranks but Won't Start

Check for spark at the plugs. If none, check for spark at the coil, after removing the distributor cap, rotor, and leak cover. Ground the test light clip and check for spark from the coil, as an assistant turns the ignition switch to Start. If the coil works, there should be a spark between the spring on the coil and the test light, as the probe is brought in the proximity of the spring. You now have spark at the coil and no spark at the plugs; therefore, replace the rotor and distributor cap, since one or both may be shorting out.

If there's no spark from the coil, check the igniter with the test light. Take a jumper wire, with alligator clips on each end, and ground out the coil spring. Touch the test light probe to the negative terminal on the coil, as your assistant turns the ignition switch to Start. If the igniter is good, the test light should blink on and off. If the test light does not blink on and off, replace the igniter. Should the coil still not spark, after replacing the igniter, replace the coil.

In real life, everything can check out but the engine can still die on you, once it gets hot and the igniter and/or coil start to break down under load. That's why I'm not a real fan of testing igniters and coils. This diagnostic process may keep you from just throwing parts at the problem—just be aware of its limitations.

I only recommend genuine Honda distributor housings--aftermarket ICMs and coils are fine, however.