BRAND NEW member here, I feel very lucky to have found this site and am hoping for some guidance!
I've followed virtually every shred of advice I've read on this site in trying to fix a 92 Civic... checked and replaced the main relay (got new one at Honda dealer parts counter), the ECM (put in used one), replaced the coil and ICM (brand new Duralast parts from AutoZone), checked for (and have) the all-important 5 volts at the MAP sensor, checked all fuses (underhood and underdash) and still no spark!
I guess it could be a bad ECM (used, from auto recycler), but all the relay clicks, CEL light staying on for a couple of seconds, and buzzing fuel pump sounds make me think it's OK?
I noticed a wiring connector on the side of the distributor, with a rather large gauge black/yellow wire going in and a smaller yellow/something wire coming out. Voltage on the large-wire side of the connector but not the other... could that be significant?
This one has me stumped... I'm out of ideas, almost out of money and completely out of patience! Lol
It's a 1.5 with a 5 speed, around 118K miles. Truly, a great little car until a week ago.
Thanks in advance for any help and/or advice!

1. Are you categorically saying your Civic passes the 3 basic diagnostic tests? If doesn't, don't waste your time worrying about spark at this point.
2. Did you properly test all under-hood and under-dash fuses with a test light or multimeter? See section X, in the link below.
3. Did you check your replacement ECM for any DTCs?
4. Do you have a tachometer that could be shorting out?
5. Make sure you have run all tests in section B below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-honda-civics-46563.html

6. Make sure and run the power to the distributor and ICM tests. It's good that you replaced the main relay, igniter, and coil.
7. When you replaced the igniter and coil, did you make sure the female connectors were tight?
8. Did you clean the main ECM ground on the thermostat housing?
9. Normally, if a Honda passes the 3 basic diagnostic tests, the problem is either with the igniter or coil. Other possibilities are distributor sensors; i.e. CYL, CYP, and TDC. If there are problems with these, you normally need to get a new distributor housing that comes with new sensors.
10. Are your rotor, distributor cap, and spark plug wires in good shape?
11. Why did you install a new ECM?
12. Is your ignition switch good?

Sounds like you should be very close to getting it to run. Once it does, you should be good for a long time, since you replaced a number of key electrical components. If you haven't had to replace the distributor housing, you have been lucky. The bearing goes and normally takes out the sensors. Happened on my Civic at 95,000 miles. Don't give up!

Well, I went over to work on the Civic today. I went through every test mentioned, substituted the original main relay, checked the ICM and the coil (per the Haynes manual), checked the map sensor power, checked all the fuses, checked for codes (none there) and finally re-installed the original ECM. With the original ECM, there's no fuel pump sound, so I figure it's actually bad. When I installed the used ECM on Saturday evening, I just installed it, and didn't really inspect it much. Today, in the brighter light, I looked at the original one and compared it more closely to the used one. I may have stumbled across the problem... 2 of the connector pins seem to be corroded away or broken off the used ECM that I got from the recycler. It's the 3rd set of pins in from the end of the largest plug (I don't know if that makes much sense). There are clearly pins in the same location on the original one. So... I guess I need to look for another ECM to try!
Txgreasemonkey... I can't thank you enough for taking the time and making the effort to help me and every other Honda person having problems! Do you think the used ECM could be the culprit? Those ECM's seem to be hard to find around here... I'm sure I won't get much sympathy from the guy at the parts yard. Lol
Anyway... I've noticed from other posts that sometimes people seem to disappear (maybe their cars get fixed and they're having too much fun driving them again or they get too busy with the second job they have to take to pay for all the parts!! Lol), but I will definitely post the progress or lack thereof!

Thank you for your comments. If you plan on keeping your 1992 Civic and driving it for a long time, as I do my 1993 Civic DX, then I would recommend you install the new main relay, ICM, and coil. I would also make sure the replacement ECM matched the Honda Part No. on the original computer. It's important to know the electrical heart and soul of your car is strong and healthy. When the ECM failed on my Civic, I replaced it with an identical remanufactured Cardone ECM, with a lifetime warranty. It cost me $250 from O'Reilly Auto Parts. I considered eBay and other options, but I decided, in the long run, this was the most prudent thing for me to do. I know my car is in great shape, it's fun to drive, gets great gas mileage, and I want to keep it for a long, long time.

The key thing to achieve on any Honda is to be able to answer "Yes" to the 3 basic diagnostic questions. This means your main relay, under-dash fuses, ECM, and ignition switch work properly. With this anchor knowledge, you can more easily tackle less serious problems with the ignition system. Normally, these involve the igniter or coil, especially the former. If you are going to use the car back and forth to your job, you need to have a high degree of confidence in the reliability of your car. One tow to the dealer can cost you a lot more than the cost of the aftermarket parts we are talking about here. Therefore, I'm a strong proponent in replacing these important electrical components every 10 years or 120,000 miles, whichever comes first. Replace them on your terms. If you amortize the expense over this duration, it's not expensive at all. I don't want to spend your money for you, but I guess I'm saying you need to also replace the ECM with one you can count on. An engineer I know, who races cars in Texas, only recommends buying replacement ECMs with a lifetime warranty. Count the number of pins going to the mother board--there should be 64. Sounds like the other guy sold you a bad ECM.

With the new components above installed, the odds are very high that your car will start and run great. The problem is likely your ECM. Keep me posted with your progress.

Did you run the K-Test on your original ECM? If so, what voltage did you record?

Sounds like the replacement ECM is missing the D17 and D18 pins. The D17 pin is likely the signal wire from the MAP sensor to the ECM. Without it, you won't have spark. I would be interested if you can confirm pins D17 and D18 are missing and not pins A5 or A6 (oxygen sensor). The A connector has 26 pins, the B connector has 16 pins, and the D connector has 22 pins. So, how many pins did the connector have that was missing 2 pins?

Hi TGM
I tested the voltage to the map sensor, from the right-hand wire to ground and got 5.04 volts. I tested the voltage to another wire on the map sensor plug and got 3.55 volts.
I guess the pins that are damaged on the used ECM are on what is called the A connector because it has 26 pins. The ones that are missing are the 3rd set in from the inner side of the connector (the side abutting the B connector 16 pins) How are the pins numbered? I didn't test for any voltage at the D harness plug yet... I can do that tomorrow or Saturday.
Since the bad pins don't appear to be on the D connector, can I rule out the ECM as causing the no-spark condition? (Wow... just when I thought I was onto something! Lol)
I guess I'll hold off on buying another ECM until I check the voltage at the D harness and/or hear from you.
I completely agree with your value philosophy... you are indeed a wise man!
Thanks again until next time!

The pins that are missing from your ECM are A21 and A22, which go to the Ignition Output Signal. This is one of the absolutely necessary sensors that must work. The bottom line is that your computer is not receiving an input signal from the Ignition Control Module (igniter). The input signal travels from the ICM to the ECM over the YEL/GRN wire.

OK... That's actually good news, because I didn't think the 2 pins should be missing. AutoZone says the reman ECMs are out of stock, so I'll check with Advance Auto Parts tomorrow.
Thanks again, and I'll let you know what happens!

Was this your "new" ECM?:

"I tested the voltage to the map sensor, from the right-hand wire to ground and got 5.04 volts. I tested the voltage to another wire on the map sensor plug and got 3.55 volts."

I wonder what the readings would be on your "old" ECM. Here's where I'm going with this. If you run the K-Test on your old ECM and it is good, there's the possibility that the problem could be with a damaged ICM, if the YEL/GRN wire was ever shorted.

Remember to always remove the negative battery cable before working on your electrical system.

It was with the "new" (used) ECM... but I checked the voltage before AND after changing the ICM, so I think the ICM was OK (old) and is OK (new). Sound right?
And, although I don't know for certain, I don't think the wire was ever shorted. The car ran fine when parked, and wouldn't start the next day. I can redo the K-test using the old ECM if you think I need to, prior to buying a new ECM. Am I looking for the 5.0 volt reading with the original ECM?

Yes, you would be looking for 5 volts coming from the original ECM. If it's a lot of trouble, don't bother. It's just something I have wondered about. However, I can say for certain the "new" ECM you have will never work.

If you go to O'Reilly Auto Parts, they will match Advance Auto Part's price and give you a lifetime warranty on a Cardone ECM.

Hi TGM
Well... I ordered a new ECM, they said it should be here in a few days. Now, here's the good part: Thinking I didn't have much to lose, I took both the original ECM and the used "new" one to a friend of mine who works on computers (PCs) and he was able to remove 2 pins from the original non-working ECM and installed them in the ECM that had the 2 broken pins. I took it back, plugged it in and she FIRED RIGHT UP!
I'll still put the new one in when it arrives, but I have this one as a test "mule" for future diagnostics, and possibly a spare, if needed. What an ordeal! The friend who worked on the ECM is a qualified and experienced computer repair tech with his own business. I can't imagine a typical do-it-yourselfer having the same success.
I sure know a lot more about Honda electronics and ignitions than I did one week ago! Aside from the prices being more than domestic/old school parts, the systems are amazingly sophisticated in their function and design.
I could never have figured this deal out without the assistance and guidance of Mr. txgreasemonkey. HATS OFF to you, sir... and THANKS AGAIN! It's been a pleasure learning from you.

Nix that last sentence... it's been a PRIVILEGE to learn from you!

That was a clever idea. You must have been thrilled when your car fired up. People who have never poured themselves into something as intense as these situations, have never experienced the exhilaration that comes from such a victory. These problems are really opportunities for significant growth. They take you so much further in your understanding than you would have ever thought possible. Additionally, you saved yourself a lot of money. Heavy duty electrical system diagnosing is not cheap.

With a new main relay, ICM, coil, and remanufactured ECM, your Civic should be very reliable for years to come. These are great little cars that can go 350,000 miles. They tend to outlast Accords, because people don't drive them as hard.

Could you please chronicle your use of the K-Test and the fact that your ECM failed in the link below?:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/k-test-poll-51138.html?highlight=k-test+poll

I would like to start keeping track of the number of ECMs that fail, in order to document the extent of the problem. Too many people believe Honda ECMs are bullet-proof.

This is actually for txgreasemonkey (or anyone who can give me positive info):

I am helping a friend with her civic issue that sounds similar.

Her symptoms:
When car starts, it's fine.
When trying to start, key must be placed in ACC position for about 10-30mins, a relay sounds, the "check-eng" light goes out, then the car can be started.

Because of the delay of starting, it seems that it is NOT the ECU, but A relay. I don't know where this relay would be.

... it still could be the ECU, but the symptom of this delay tells me that it is a RELAY problem, since the ECU is not mechanical like the relay.

I do NOT have a code checker...

jules_richard, the problem is with the ECM (cause), not the relay (effect). First, clean the main ECM ground on the thermostat. Next, perform the K-Test on the ECM:

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

Here's how to replace the ECM:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563-3.html#post235038

TxGreaseMonkey (and any others!)-

I have been marveling at the collective wisdom on this site all day! I am in quite a bind, and need some help. Typical driving down the road, slow down for a stop sign, press accelerator, moves forward for 2 seconds, dies. Electrically, nothing shut off, but it seemed as there was no fuel getting to the engine.

Diagnosis: Traced fuel all the way to the rail, delivery is good. Started checking timing by removing valve body cover to see valves move/ timing belt- all is well. On to spark, where I am getting nothing. Have replaced Distributor Rotor and Cap, checked wires, replaced coil. Checked ECM and Main Relay. Cosmetically perfect, physically seems fine. Did the "Main Relay Harness Test". Only spot I'm unsure of is the connection between Terminal 8 on the MR and A7 on the ECM- no continuity.

I have no idea what to do next. The CEL is not on except for the 2 seconds when the fuel pump is priming. Everything seems to be working correctly, but obviously it is not. Any help would be appreciated!

jsmith8, replace the Ignition Control Module and your problem will likely be solved:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-4.html#post265896

Keep me posted.

KLACHT:
JA ) Motor draait rond maar start niet.
JA ) Motor krijgt GEEN vonk op alle cilinders.
JA ) Na omdraaien contact sleutel draait de Startmotor de motor aan?
JA ) Startmotor doet het motor draait rond?
NEE ) Gebeurt niets en Hoor niets dan is de startmotor kapot.
NEE ) Hoor alleen TIK TIK, oorzaak een zwakke accu.

JA ) Motor draait maar slaat niet aan?
JA ) Motor krijgt brandstof?
NEE ) Probleem zit dan in het brandstof systeem.

JA ) Motor draait maar loopt onregelmatig op 2 of 3 cilinders?
Oorzaak: Bougies versleten of kapote bougiekabels.
Zijn te zwak om de vonk over te brengen. Is alles oke dan groter probleem waarschijnlijk cilinderkop.

JA ) Motor draait maar slaat niet aan?
JA ) Motor krijgt vonk?
JA ) Bougies vervangen.
JA ) Bougie kabels vervangen.
JA ) Roter + Kap vervangen.
JA ) Kabels gecontroleert op breuken of los contact.
JA ) Computer uitgelezen en of vervangen.

NEE ) Probleem zit dan in het ontstekingsysteem.

OORZAAK: ONTSTEKINGMODULE IS DEFECT.
DIT IS EEN KLEIN ELECTRONISCHE ONDERDEELTJE DAT INWENDIG WEGGEWERKT ZIT IN DE ONTSTEKING.
LET WEL OP: ONTSTEKINGSMODULE NIET ZELF OPENSCHROEVEN ALS JE DENK ZELF EVEN TE REPAREREN. LAAT DIT DOOR EEN ERVAREN MONTEUR VERVANGEN!

Als dit vervangen is en de auto loopt nog steeds niet.
Doe dan niet moeilijk en vervang compleet de ontsteking.
Een complete 2de handse ontsteking is nog goedkoper dan 10x terug gaan naar de garage autodealer.

Hieronder heb je een link dan wordt het misschien helemaal duidelijk.

http://www.depreludegarage.nl/CMS/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=20&Itemid=56

Veel succes en hoop that je auto het snel weer doet.

Met vriendelijke groet,

Artiestverhuur.nl