Troyself: Not being there I would say it is a toilet flange. Did the bolts that hold the toilet down hook into this piece? If so you are looking a plastic flange instead of the metal one. buddy2

Hi Troy

If we are talkng about a ridgid, hard plastic then it could be a closet flange, it could be a closet flange extension, or it could even be the black plastic "horn" from the old wax ring with horn... see images below for clarification.

Any of these look familiar?

Mark

Mark,thanks 4 making this easier,the 1st picture of the white plastic/PVC is what I'm dealing with... the toilet was leaking out the bottom,deposits were forming,went 2 replace the wax ring and 2 my dismay, the flange is cracked on 1 side,broke on other

Additionally, the flange is GLUED to the PVC drain, concrete floor, next to nothing on space below the flange... will try the metal flange repair parts, if they can fit under the narrow space... any suggestions from the prof. point of view?

Thanks sir; the bolts do hook into the flange, the flange appears cracked on one side, broke out on the other; an overweight individual sat on it, tilted the toilet, and even broke out of the wall the toilet paper roller trying to get off.

... there is little to zero space under the flange, it sits on a concrete floor and it's GLUED to the PVC drain. I'm going to try the metal flange repair rings UNDER the broke part, but I can't see how I'm going to get the bolts there, too.

Can I make it work by putting the metal flange ring repair on TOP of the existing broke flange? Last case scenario: am I possibly going to have to CUT OUT the existing flange? If so, the inside portion where it's glued, now narrows the opening...

Is there a flange repair that accepts a narrower opening to the drain is such cases?

Hi Troy...

You should be able to use a SPANNER FLANGE on the broken sides. Here, you first slide the toilet bolt into the spanner flange and THEN you slide it under the broken flange using a hammer if needed to set it deep under... should go for you... ;) See images below.

If that fails to fix this for you, try a metal repair ring. Here, you will need to remove the screws/anchors from the old flange, set the repair ring on top of the old flange and then secure the repair ring through the old flange and into the concrete... should also work.

You could also try the plastic repair rings, but if the person that broke all this plans on returning, well... metal would probably be better... huh?

Finally, if you do need to cut out the old flange let us know how much space between the top of the flange until you hit the bottom of the toilet elbow in the ground, OK?

Back to you...

Mark

Mark, honored 2 have you answer my rookie questions! Will try what you suggest, but the space under the existing flange, I can say for certain, is to slight to get the repair and the bold UNDER... do I need to chisel out concrete under or something?

Correction: 'bold' should have been 'BOLT' in the phrase: "the space under the existing flange, I can say for certain, is to slight to get the repair and the bol(t) UNDER.."

Absoultely, chisel some concrete out, but not too much, and use a hammer to drive all under... should go for you.

Keep me posted!

Mark

Troyself: If your small half moon metal repair don't work .I would look for a complete metal flange that screws to the concrete floor. It's made large enough to go over your old flange and you bolt it to the concrete with tap-con screws I think about six screws around the flange. You can get a bit to match the size of screws you use. You then use Automotive silcone to seal all round the inside of old flange, It drys faster than regular silcone. We used to use them on tile floors they worked great and you just add one wax ring as installing a regular toilet. Good Luck Buddy2 PS This flange also keeps the toilet from slipping an sliding on conctete and tile floors.