OK so I hate typing and writing so sorry... so it started like this. Roommate borrows car. Calls me car won't start.. *** towed it home... So I traced it to a fuel pump not on.. reason main relay wasn't clicking so I tapped it.. it worked drove to parts store got a new main relay I thought it was it... put it in, then the car wouldn't start now main relay not clicking at all.. tried the old one, ran some more test.. checked fuses nothing.. so I said f it for today will try tomorrow... researched it that night on computer found theirs another relay further up in dash.. found it, unplugged it. Inspected it, it look good so I hooked it back up.. it started cool, so just to make sure I turned car off, on, off, on, let it warm up 10min went to store got home turned car off.. turned it on, won't start. More research. I turn key on(Position II) cel light stays on only the single relay (the one by itself) is clicking.. then sometimes cel does not turn on? I tried getting cel codes by running jumper wire (passenger side kick panel plug above ecu) no codes and it should have some because when it is running the cel light is been on..

Perform the K-Test on the ECM, which may be failing:

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it’s probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate. Many Hondas parked for several years are now back on the road. "The K-Test creates massive value, by providing a low cost solution where one did not previously exist."--TxGM