How do I tell if my toilet flange is brass or cast iron? I need to remove it to replace subfloor underneath and see the okum/lead posts, as well as the soldering brass posts. The flange is in good shape and seems to me I could re-use it once I put the new floor down but don't mind getting a new flange if I have to destroy it to get it off. (I don't want to have to replace the waste pipe)

Thanks

How do I tell if my toilet flange is brass or cast iron? Take a knife and scrape the metal. If it's brass the color will be a gold tone if cast iron it will be silver. But why pull the flange at all? Simply floor around it and then build the flange up with a set of flange extenders, (see image) Sound like a plan? Regards, Tom

Is the sub floor rotten out, does it no longer properly carry any weight or attachment to the toilet

Bob makes a good point. However if you have to replace the flooring under the flange why not just keep the flange and simply slide the subfloor under it? It sounds like you have a cast iron flange with a lead and oakum poured and caulked joint. I'm attempting to save you the hassle of messing with the flange. However, If the flange has to come up you can replace with a twist on flange. (see image). Good luck, Tom

All the answers are good but put a magnet on the flange. Cast Iron is magnetic, brass isn't.

I think the idea of flooring around it seems the best idea. Where do I get these flange extenders and does the material they are made of matter?
Thanks to EVERYONE who replied.

You can find it in Home Depot open the link below, Thanks.

John

Shop for Oatey 4 In. Twist-N-Set PVC Toilet Bowl Flange Heating, from The Home Depot (http://www.homedepot.com/buy/building-materials/heating-venting-cooling/oatey/4-in-twistnset-pvc-toilet-bowl-flange-62612.html)

Back to the beginning. Magnet doesn't stick and scraped color is gold tone so it must be brass (as is the 3" pipe if that makes any sense) I can't get this flange off to save my (or its) life and I have already crossed the line between gentle tapping and brute force. So, I thought I could just floor around it flush with the top of the flange and use the extenders to build flange up as Tom suggested ~ since I can't angle the new flooring to fit under the flange based on the CRAMPED spacing between the flange and the wall and the tub. But, then the flooring level for this replacement portion is 3/8 " higher than the rest of the floor and I'd have to cut the door and re-work threshold under door if I built up the whole floor with another 3/8 inch of height. I could use a piece of flooring that is 3/8 less high for the replacement piece but that leaves a gap between the joists and this replacement flooring. It might be time for a plumber with a pipe cutter unless anyone can share any more wisdom. Again, many thanks!