giligan
Jun 29, 2010, 03:44 PM
Question: Cold walls and frost build up on floorboards and flooring by tempot
21boat
Before you call anybody lets try to save some money YEA. Carefully pop your base trim off in that area. Use a flat "roofing bar" it's a small prybar that's flat. After the trim is off I want you to cut out a small section of drywall abut 2 1/2" off the floor and stay below where the top of the trim was. Pencil the top trim on wall lightly to gage height. stay below that 1/2 " Look and see if you see some paper /plastic(vapor barrier) then insulation. Slit the barrier and see if it fells wet of very damp in the insulation. If it does that needs replaced in those sections that are bad and you may need to take more drywall out, Also look at the floor where it meets the wall plate and feel if there is a draft. If so at this point it will need caulked all along the walls. Since the floor reacted that far out is there a crawl space under it? If so that may need addressed. If all is done then close up.
21Boat
If I helped to Answer Your Question Please Rate My Answer
We have the same frost build up along baseboards of some walls on main floor above grade in our 1972 built bungalow in Central Alberta Canada (dry climate, summers up to 85 degrees (Fahrenheit), on average 72; winters can get to 30 degrees below zero (Fahrenheit). In March 2010 we installed windows and while we were relieved to see plastic vapor barrier on the inside of the walls (2" x 4" studs), the fiberglass insulation has compacted to about half the thickness it originally was - though there were water stains (from leaks in window frames) on drywall and plywood sheathing, the insulation was dry. Water stains were also found in a few spots along the walls on the floor sheeting when we removed / re-installed flooring.
When / what time of year do we make the test for dampness you suggested?
We know there were problems with water leaks from old aluminum sliding windows but with new windows we hope we eliminated leaks.
We had an energy efficiency assessment on the home and know there is drafting so we assume caulking around base plates is needed and that electrical boxes will have to be removed, placed in plastic covers, sealed and re-installed.
Presuming we caught leaks from windows, caulking and sealing up electrical boxes will be enough to stop the air drafts, we are also looking at blowing in cellulose insulation into the wall cavities.
We are considering doing this and whether or not to leave the walls partly filled with fiberglass insulation to avoid all the work with removing / reinstalling / finishing / painting drywall (which will add quite a lot to the cost).
Wasn't sure if you've seen this done successfully or not - we would appreciate insights / comments.
21boat
Before you call anybody lets try to save some money YEA. Carefully pop your base trim off in that area. Use a flat "roofing bar" it's a small prybar that's flat. After the trim is off I want you to cut out a small section of drywall abut 2 1/2" off the floor and stay below where the top of the trim was. Pencil the top trim on wall lightly to gage height. stay below that 1/2 " Look and see if you see some paper /plastic(vapor barrier) then insulation. Slit the barrier and see if it fells wet of very damp in the insulation. If it does that needs replaced in those sections that are bad and you may need to take more drywall out, Also look at the floor where it meets the wall plate and feel if there is a draft. If so at this point it will need caulked all along the walls. Since the floor reacted that far out is there a crawl space under it? If so that may need addressed. If all is done then close up.
21Boat
If I helped to Answer Your Question Please Rate My Answer
We have the same frost build up along baseboards of some walls on main floor above grade in our 1972 built bungalow in Central Alberta Canada (dry climate, summers up to 85 degrees (Fahrenheit), on average 72; winters can get to 30 degrees below zero (Fahrenheit). In March 2010 we installed windows and while we were relieved to see plastic vapor barrier on the inside of the walls (2" x 4" studs), the fiberglass insulation has compacted to about half the thickness it originally was - though there were water stains (from leaks in window frames) on drywall and plywood sheathing, the insulation was dry. Water stains were also found in a few spots along the walls on the floor sheeting when we removed / re-installed flooring.
When / what time of year do we make the test for dampness you suggested?
We know there were problems with water leaks from old aluminum sliding windows but with new windows we hope we eliminated leaks.
We had an energy efficiency assessment on the home and know there is drafting so we assume caulking around base plates is needed and that electrical boxes will have to be removed, placed in plastic covers, sealed and re-installed.
Presuming we caught leaks from windows, caulking and sealing up electrical boxes will be enough to stop the air drafts, we are also looking at blowing in cellulose insulation into the wall cavities.
We are considering doing this and whether or not to leave the walls partly filled with fiberglass insulation to avoid all the work with removing / reinstalling / finishing / painting drywall (which will add quite a lot to the cost).
Wasn't sure if you've seen this done successfully or not - we would appreciate insights / comments.