My battery was not charging so I decided to change it. About 15 minutes after I changed it I took the car for a drive and the MIL light started blinking. The car then went into Limp Mode. Later that day I took the codes to see what was wrong with the car. It said there was a problem with the spark plug wire on cylinder 1. So, I changed all the spark plugs, the spark plug wires, the distributor cap, and the rotor. Now my car won't even start. It cranks but it won't start. I checked to see if fuel was getting to the engine and it is. Also, the gas pump is working. Then I tested to see if the car was sparking. The car is not getting any sort of spark (no blue or yellow). I'm positive all the replacement pieces are working (they are also new). What should I do next?

Replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-4.html#post265896

My battery was not charging so I decided to change it. About 15 minutes after I changed it I took the car for a drive and the MIL light started blinking. The car then went into Limp Mode. Later that day I took the codes to see what was wrong with the car. It said there was a problem with the spark plug wire on cylinder 1. So, I changed all the spark plugs, the spark plug wires, the distributor cap, and the rotor.I checked to see if fuel was getting to the engine and it is. Also, the gas pump is working. Then I tested to see if the car was sparking. The car is not getting any sort of spark (no blue or yellow). I'm positive all the replacement pieces are working (they are also new). After TDxGreaseMonkey helped me and said to change the ICM and ignition coil the car is now sparking. However, the sparks are yellow there is no blue spark. Now my car does not make any sort of loud cranking noise like it did before but its still cranking. It seems the car won't kick. Can someone please advise me on what to do next? Help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

. Check and see if the timing belt broke. Have someone else crank the car, while you remove the oil filler cap and see if the camshaft rotates.

. Ensure the spark plug wires are fully seated in the distributor cap.

If the problem persists, the next step is to replace the distributor housing, since internal sensors (CKP, TDC, or CYL) may be damaged. This is common on Hondas. Only buy a genuine Honda distributor housing, where it's fine to install your new Ignition Control Module and coil. Keep in mind that over 50% of new aftermarket distributors for Hondas have not worked at AMHD. Here's how to replace the distributor yourself:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-4.html#post288473

Checked those things and they checked out fine.

When I changed the ICM, and coil I changed the entire distributor so that it's brand new. Is it possible that the engine is flooded and that's why it won't start? If so how do I know it is flooded and how do I unflood it. Also, if it's flooded will there be permanent damage to the engine?

Is the distributor housing made by Honda?

If you suspect it may be flooded, just remove all of the spark plugs overnight. No permanent damage.

I'm not 100% sure but I'm 99% sure it is. It's a Tec Distributor and it looks exactly like the one I had on my car before.

It's likely fine, then. Removing the spark plugs overnight may be just what you need to do. Your system should be all "go."

Did you reset the ECM, after it threw a code?

Also, just for the heck of it, check all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter, if the problem persists:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-3.html#post252145

I reset the codes but I can't even check them now because the car won't turn over. Also, I've checked all the fuses and they checked out fine. When I first tried starting the car after replacing the distributor it made a loud crank noise and then that died and now it sort of whimpers. Someone said it sounded like the engine wasn't compressing. I'm praying that isn't the problem.

Thoughts & questions:

. Did you tighten the plugs all of the way.

. How many miles are on the engine?

. Check each cylinder's compression, after removing all of the spark plugs. If you have ever had it overheat, the head gasket may have blown.

- Plugs are tightened all the way

- The car only has 70k miles

- I've never had it overheat but tomorrow I'll have to check the cylinder's compression.

If you can, remove the plugs tonight. When you check the compression, do it dry and wet (oil). Record on a piece of paper both readings for each cylinder:

Dry: 1, 2, 3, 4

Wet: 1, 2, 3, 4

This is certainly unusual for an Accord with such low mileage. Have you changed the engine oil and filter at least as often as recommended?

I've changed it every 3k miles. I bought the car when it had 65k miles and the owner before me was an elderly man. He had the oil change done every 2k miles and he also changed the O2 sensor, and timing belt when a repair was needed. How long does it usually take before a flooded engine is cleared up?

You originally said the battery was not charging. Could you have a problem with the alternator? Alternator problems can show up in unusual ways, at times.

I would wait several hours, anyhow.

Also, I'm starting to believe it is a flooded engine since my engine has never overheated before and when the battery was changed the engine was in great condition. It also seems to point towards an electrical problem because the spark is yellow and after changing all the ignition pieces it should be blue.

How do I check to see if the alternator is bad?

Power to Distributor Test. Turn ignition OFF. Disconnect the 2-P connector from the distributor. Turn the ignition switch ON. Measure voltage between BLK/YEL (+) terminal and body ground. There should be 12+ volts read. If not, repair open in BLK/YEL wire between the 2-P connector and ignition switch.

- I've tested the alternator and its working properly

- I'm going to set the spark plugs out now and hopefully if the engine is flooded this will clear it.

-I have no way of checking the compression because I don't have a compression gauge. Is there any way to tell if it's the compression otherwise?

Only if it sounds like there's no compression, which may not be reliable.

Did you perform the Power to Distributor Test?

I did and the distributor is getting power.

Does the CEL come on and go off normally, when you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II)?

Yes

If your new distributor is good, I don't know why your Civic doesn't start. Everything seems to checkout.

Well I just spoke with Honda and they said my timing belt might be spinning to fast but I don't see how that'd happen.

The timing belt may have slipped or the tensioner loosened. I wonder if the previous owner had the work done at Honda. If you think that's a possibility, be careful. It's an interference engine, where a lot of damage could be done to the valves and pistons. Have it towed to Honda. You may want to take the cover off and check things out for yourself.

Did you mark the distributor and mount, so the timing would be close when you installed the new distributor?

If the TB slipped, that could easily explain the original code that was thrown. Timing (spark) is based on TDC of Cylinder #1.

I took pictures of which way the router was facing and which way the other end of the distributor was facing and that's how I put the distributor back in.

Because of the offset shaft, you can't install the distributor incorrectly. If you did not mark the distributor and mount, then the timing may be too far retarded. If you don't believe there's a problem with the timing belt, loosen the 3 distributor mounting bolts and rotate the distributor slightly counterclockwise. This will advance the timing.

Well I've given up. I've spoken to several of my dads friends who are mechanics and they've taken a look at the car and no one can figure out why its not turning so I'm getting it towed to one of their shops. Thanks for all your help GreaseMonkey. I'll keep you posted as to what the problem(s) are when the car finally starts running.

My main relay was faulty and it needed to be changed.

Glad to see you got it running.