Bought a used 1999 honda accord 4 cyl 1 year ago and it has always stalled intermittently. Started once every 3 weeks and it always started right back up. (it actually only happened when my wife drove the car for the first 3 months and I kind of didn't believe her) It has waxed and wained and does it with no rhyme or reason. Just after starting, going for 45min, winter and summer, rain or shine, while stopped and accelerating at 60mph. When it happens sometimes everything stops and dash lights come on immediately and sometimes everything stopps for 3-4 sec with no response of the accelerator and the power steering is gone and Then the dash lights come on. No increase in RPm's prior to stop just RPM's drop out and it dies. Sometimes it starts up immediately and sometime it has taken 10 minutes. Never idles rough and is always around 750rpms when warmed. I have OBD II scanner and had it scanning WHILE it has stalled, Right after it has stalled and everything in between and There are NO codes being sent.
Replaced ICM, Spark Plugs, SP Wires, OEM Distributer Cap and Rotor, MAP sensor, and Ignition switch, PVC valve.
Performed OBD II scanning with no success numerous times.
Tested ALL Fuses under Dash and in Engine compartment.
Performed K-test at MAP sensor and it shows 5.0V coming from PCM.
Took out PCM and Looked at cover (yes I know not very specific/sensitive of a test) and it looks pristine.
Checked main relay and it clicks when I turn the key and 2 secs later and you can feel it both times.
You can hear fuel pump as well.
What next? This thing is driving me nuts.
Oh yeah and I called the local dealer here and the let me know that they had it in their shop a little while before I bought it for the same thing. They put it on their wonder scanner and it didn't show anything. They did notice that the ignition switch was not replaced and they replaced that (wish I knew that before I replaced it again) but said the car was fine.
Any ideas?
Jer

If you applied heat transfer compound to the back of the ICM, then I would replace the distributor housing (genuine Honda only). The internal sensors are likely breaking down intermittently. Install your current ICM to save money. Ensure all distributor connectors are clean and tight. This link may help:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-4.html#post265896

I would also replace the external coil, especially if it has never been replaced. I've seen numerous instances when they break down under load (heat). This should solve the problem.

I forgot to add that I replaced the coil as well. I will check out the housing. And keep you posted.

Quick update: I checked the CYP sensor as described in the manuel with my multimeter and it had appropriate resistance and none of the leads had continuity with ground as is required by the manuel, I also read a post somewhere else to pull the 7.5 backup fuse after replacing any sensors to reset PCM and since I didn't do that before when I replaced all of the others I thought I would do that now. Well then it started once and died and then started and died immediately and then started and when I tried to push the pedal died and then just wouldn't start period. I left it alone for 10 min. then it started right up but was smoking out the exhaust mildly. I then ran it a while and that went away but that was a really interesting experience. I don't know if I created another problem or what but will monitor it for a while.

So of course it still stalls, happened after one week of running very well. Do you think the CYP is likely the culprit even if it tests out OK. Hate to spend $160 on top of all the other $'s I have already dished out.

It ended up being the Main relay. Go figure. 60$ part and real easy to replace.

I am having the same problem with my 98 honda crv. I've googled and several people are having this issue and very few blogs are saying what the issue is after they spent so much money buying parts they really didn't need! I also believe my main relay needs to be replaced. Gunn Honda in San Antonio, TX had my car for 8 hours and could not find the problem. The first day, they assumed it was the ignition switch (recall part); after that part was replaced my car still stalled. Before the part was replaced Express Lube assumed I need a fuel injection service, which I did. Still stalled, then I got the fuel pump pressure tested, pressure was fine. Still stalled. I went to auto zone, their computer said I need new spark plugs... replaced that was 13 bucks, along with spark plug wires (warrenty). Still stalled, took it back to Honda where they had it for 8 hours. I needed my car, so, I picked it up. Still stalled! Went back to autozone, tested again, no codes, again! They lady said lets check your battery, battery was BAD! Mostly likely because of the weather here. Replaced battery (warrenty). Car stalled last night, driving up the ramp to I-10 west. Do you know how scary they is, stalling, stalling on the freeway, rush hour traffic, so scary! And that Honda dealership does not know what the hell is wrong with my car!! Today, Oreailly's is getting the main relay for me. I hope it is the problem. I have no other choice! I'm going to write a letter to Honda Corporate and complain and informing TEXAS DMV. We shouldnot have to go through this!

ashlym84, I'm virtually certain that replacing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil will solve your problem:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-4.html#post265896

Very common problem with Hondas. Run a search on this site and see for yourself. Failing main relays, ICMs, and coils account for most stalling issues--they break down under load (heat). It's best to replace these items every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

Something I didn't mention was when I turn the key, the battery light and oil light is on... but both have been replaced/changed oil. When car is on the lights go away...

Does the Check Engine Light come on and go off after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)? If it does, then I think you have a standard Honda distributor problem, where the ICM and/or coil is breaking down under load. ICMs are very problematic on Hondas. The Honda dealer should not have missed this.

I just checked, when key is in the 2 position, the check engine light is on then cuts off, 6 beeping noises (which I just noticed or never paid attention to.), with oil light, battery light, park light, green drive light, sometimes the SR.. or something light(the light in the lowest position on the dash (air bag light)). I was at autozone this morning and they used their yellow/orange handheld.. no codes, again. My friend asked me, if the Honda dealership did a dynamic, I assumed they did because they gave a sheet with proposal work.

My I should have mentioned, I keep good maintaince on my car, even though it's 1998 Honda CRV, with 169,xxx miles. And yes Honda Dealerships should know the problem and not force people to buy all these parts and guessing.

As you mentioned, this is a very dangerous situation. Intermittent problems like these do not usually show up during diagnostic tests--only in gross (total failure) situations. What I'm sharing with you comes from my experience with helping many people with problems like yours. It takes about 45 minutes, or less, to change the ICM and coil. If you follow my steps you can do the work yourself. Aftermarket ICMs (igniters) and coils have proven reliable on this site.

Okay, ICMs, coils, main relay (by the steering wheel). O'Rielly ordered the main relay (lifetime warrenty) for me. I'll follow your directions. Any sugguestions where to locate aftermarkets parts?

O'Reilly Auto Parts, AutoZone, or Advance Auto. Shop price and warranty. Replacing these three components should end your nightmare situation.

Be sure to apply the heat transfer compound to the back of the new ICM; otherwise, it won't last long.

Keep us posted with the results.

Hey! My engine light actually stayed on. I quickly went to Advanced Auto for testing. Code: p0420 Catalyst Efficiency below threshold...

What does that mean?

Car stalled 3 times last night. And 3 times this morning.

Now, this is getting more complicated. The catalytic converter likely needs replacing. The question is why? It may be that incomplete combustion, due to a failing ICM, coil, or plugs, damaged the converter with too much raw gas. You need to reflect on what's the likely scenario, if possible. Some mechanics will also recommend replacing the upstream and downstream oxygen sensors. If you go this route, only install Denso oxygen sensors.

Basically, whatever is causing the stall caused the code p0420 to appear...

I'm dropping my car off at the honda dealership tomorrow morning... my car has been stalling for 3 weeks, I'm tired of it... and if all repairs comes out to over $600, really what is the point with the age of the vehicle...

Hey! Honda finally told me I need to replace coil igniter, distributer cap, spark plugs, spark wires and something else (starts with a "r"). Basically the ignition, as you mentioned. But, I already replaced the spark plugs and sparkwires... so not buying that. Est. cost $700.00, now I'm asking if that comes with a warranty on labor and parts, if that's not the problem...

What is your opinion?

Hey! Honda finally got back to me and said I needed sparkplugs, sparkwires, coil igniter, distributor cap, and something that starts with a "r".
He said the entire ignition system...

What do you think?

Distributor cap, distributor rotor, coil ignitor, spark plugs and sparkwires for $800.00..

Honda's analysis agrees with my original recommendation of replacing the Ignition Control Module and coil.

Buy the parts yourself at O'Reilly Auto Parts. Then, take my instructions on how to replace the igniter, coil, and rotor to a reputable mechanic and just have them install your parts. You should be able to save a bundle. $800 is way too high.

If you buy a BWD brand distributor cap and rotor, from O'Reilly Auto Parts, they come with a lifetime warranty. They are better than Honda's distributor cap, since they come with brass (not aluminum) contacts inside and have a lifetime warranty. With my instructions, you can replace all of the parts they suggest at a fraction of the money.

I'm going to purchase the main relay tomorrow...

Thank you so much for your assistance, you are awesome!! :)

Is the catalytic converter fine? These new components should restore "like new" reliability and performance.

The dealership did not mention the code to me (they had my vehicle all day today). I will pick up my vehicle tomorrow. I'm going to purchase 1 part (main relay, ICM, coil) at a time because of my financial situation.

In my opinion, the ICM is the most crucial components that likely needs replacing. Again, save your money and don't buy it from Honda. It's too bad you don't have a friend who would do the work for you free of charge. It's easiest, however, to do the ICM, coil, and rotor at the same time, since the distributor cap needs to come off.

I should by the ICM first?

It's really best to replace the ICM, coil, and rotor. My bet, however, is that the ICM is what is really failing. Your call.

Okay, I'm doing price checks on ICM on O'Reillyautoparts.com: $49.99 & $191.99, which brand do you prefer? BWD?

For the money and warranty, go with the Master Pro for $49.99. At AMHD, we have not had any problems with aftermarket ICMs. Just make sure you double-check and get the right one for your exact car.

AutoZone also has an ICM for $49.99 for your car. Either one should be fine.

Okay, great, I will keep you posted! :)

Hey TGM, my mechanic replaced the Coil, I drove my vehicle around for about 10 - 15mins... check engine light came on... went to autozone; code P0420: catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 1.

Oh, I will be replacing my CV axle, I hear a clicking sound on my side..

Is he going to replace the ICM? If so, make sure he applies the heat transfer compound to the back of the ICM--otherwise, it won't last long.

He wanted to wait on it first, I just called the shop about the code, he said he wanted to wait on it and maybe that the system does not recognize the new coil. When I picked up my car this morning from Honda, the check engine light was not on. I bought the ICM, it's still in the box.

Really, there's no need to wait on the ICM and there's no need for the system to recognize the new coil.

It's best to remove the coil before replacing the ICM, anyhow. It provides more room to get to the ICM. I don't know where he's coming from. I still believe the ICM is the real problem.

Okay, I can get him to put it on when he replaces the CV axle. What about the code: catalyst system efficiency below threshold? Air leak? Gasket?

I would wait and see if replacing the ICM solves that problem. Make sure he uses a code reader or scan tool to clear all codes, once the new ICM is installed. Afterwards, that code may not come back.

I will hold on to the ICM. How do I tell a mechanic to replace ICM when he feels that the coil really is the problem..

After 120,000 miles or 10 years, it's prudent to replace both the ICM and coil at the same time. This is what Honda dealerships do, for good reason. Besides, the labor cost is less if they are both done at the same time. Just tell him you would like the new ICM to be installed--he'll do it. You'll be glad you did. That's my advice.

Okay, I will tell him to replace the ICM, if he charges me for labor, then I will get the CVaxle replaced too. Car rides nice... hasn't stalled yet. I'm just worried about the engine light being on... I really don't want to ride around and make the catalytic converter any worse if it does need replacing or leaks filled. He said he would check for any leaks.

Trust me, you'll be glad you did. Otherwise, you increase the risk of the engine dying on you in the left lane on I-10 or I-35--a life threatening situation.

Once the ICM is replaced, reset the ECM (computer) with a code reader. The Check Engine Light may stay off. If it doesn't, then the catalytic converter likely needs replacing.

New Cardone Select half-axles cost $50. They come with a lifetime warranty. Easy of install.

The next time you change the oil and filter, use full-synthetic 5W-30 engine oil (e.g. Mobil 1). Change the oil and filter every 6,000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. This will allow your Honda to go 300,000+ miles. Be sure to change the transmission fluid every 2 years or 30,000 miles, whichever comes first.

Verify that the mechanic applied the heat transfer compound to the back of the ICM.

Will do ;)