I have an old Sears Kenmore Dryer that shuts off when hot. I noticed in another discussion on this website that the fix involves replacing a thermostat. I'm including a link to the schematic diagram of my model. There is more than 1 thermostat on the diagram (bulkhead parts) and I wondered which ones to replace. Also, the light inside the dryer won't go on and the bulb is OK, which means there isn't power to the light.

One other thing that I noticed is that when you open the door while clothes are drying, the dryer keeps spinning. Usually it shuts off when you open the door.

Any help you could provide is greatly appreciated.

Here's the link:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=11086683120&pathTaken=partSearch

Thanks, John

John -
Based on the symptoms of the light not coming on and the drum not stopping when the door is opened would indicate the door switch is defective. It generally controls both of these. Check to make sure it is not just stuck mechanically before replacing it. It might be a freebie!

Regarding the thermostats, I thought I read somewhere that you should replace both because if your dryer has been overheating that puts a lot of strain on the thermostats, and replacing only one will leave you with a weak one. Unfortunately, I cannot find where I saw that advice.

Best of luck,
WallyH

Dealing with the door switch is most important.

The shutting off when hot is USUALLY associated with lint on top of a sensor tube or not enough air flow. The blower belt, bearings or restricted duct.

Both need to be eliminated before chasing after the thermostat.

Thanks to both of you for your quick reply. I found the lid switch on the parts diagram. There are actually 3 thermostats. I wondered if I should replace them all at this point, since the dryer is around 20 years old. Also, on the parts list, they list the THERMAL FUSE as the top selling part for this unit. Wondered if I should replace that as well. Here's the parts list for my unit.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=11086683120&pathTaken=partSearch

Glad I found this site! Lots of topics to choose from. I'm a musician and also have a lot of hobbies that I could contribute some answers to those in need.

I agree with K.I.S.S. that you should make sure there is no lint anywhere in the air path. That might be all you need for this problem.

Regarding the thermal fuse, if the dryer is getting hot then the fuse is okay. If the fuse blows, the dryer would not get hot at all.

Agree that this is a great site--I found it while trying to resolve a computer question, thought it was useful, and decided to contribute my knowledge where I can.

Good luck,
WallyH

Wally: Thanks, I'll hold off on the fuse. I plan on ordering the 3 thermostats and door switch.

I don't think the lint is a problem, I opened up the back and there was a small amount. I vacuumed it and then checked the air path, which is OK. There is plenty of air coming out of the outdoor vent.

The dryer really works great, but the wife is losing patience, as she tends to do the laundry all at one time. Now she has to wait sometimes overnight for it to go on.

I'm wondering why the door switch decided to go bad at this point, or if it is somehow wired to the thermostats.

THANKS, John

The lint that gives you problems is the one that's stuck on top of the sensors. It makes them appear hotter or colder than they are.

Interaction between the lid switch is possible.