95 civic will crank but won't start. Fuel pump won't cycle, no spark and CEL stays on. I have put a new Relay and have new distributor. I have checked all power supplys at the relay plug and ECU and Grounds also. Checked to see if I have power to distributor and Injectors and I do. When I ground the fuel pump relay at the ECU plug the fuel pump comes on. I just don't know what else to try. Harnesses look great.

Jr. perform the K-Test on your ECM--it may have failed.

What is the Ktest to be exact. Is it checkn MAP sensor for voltage @ the MAP or At the ECU

It checks for 5 reference volts at the MAP Sensor.

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

Center pin has 4.5 volts and right pin has 7.8 volts w/key on position (II) Battery has 11 volts

It appears that something is definitely wrong with your ECM. I've never seen this before, but the 7.8 reference volts is way too high. Try replacing the ECM. ECMs on these older Hondas are really starting to fail.

Now what.

Thanks bro that's what I have been thinkn and it was my last resort.

Here's how to easily replace your ECM:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-3.html#post235038

Remanufactured ECMs go for around $250. If you decide to shop on eBay, you may find one for around $125. Be sure to get an exact Honda Part No. match.

Changed ECU and still have the same reference volts 7.8. There has to be something else. When I probe the center the relay start to click continueously.

Is that a new, known good ECM? Something is really strange, here.

K-test between D19 D21 and there is no voltage at all

Again, I think your ECM is toast, especially since it failed the confirming test. Get a new ECM and your car will fire right up.

Also no voltage to ACG fuse

I was going to ask you if you checked that. That may be the source of your problem. I figured you had, for sure, tested all under dash and under hood fuses with your multimeter.

Remove, clean, and test the fuse.

I did earlier and it had voltage. What could it be. An open.

It has voltage just had a bad grd.

Bad ignition switch, which needs to be checked for wear, pitting, or melting.

If you have voltage, now, perform the K-Test again. The car may even start.

Does your CEL now go out, when the ignition switch is turned to Position II? If not, since you replaced the main relay, the problem is with fuses, ECM, or ignition switch.

CEL does not go out tried the ktest and the same. Put a better battery in and the voltage was at 10 volts and when I probe the center of map or tps the fuel pump cycles for two seconds then off, but CEL does not turn off.

Ignition is fine, fuses are fine my buddy has a PO6 that's chipped and is Great conditon.

If the ignition and fuses are fine, then the ECM has to be the problem.

New ECM and still have the same problem when turn key on(II)

Out of ideas.

I have done all procedures 3 times and I get the same results except Ktest @ MAP is reading probably fractions of volts and confirm it at the ECM D19 D21 for volt I have none at all with key on. New Battery W/12.4v. Is it still the ECU

Yes. A properly working ECM is engineered to deliver 5 reference volts. Since your's is only delivering a fraction of a volt, it has failed. Get a remanufactured ECM and I'm sure your engine will start immediately.