Hello, I am so glad to have found this most informative plumbing forum.

I am attempting to replace the insides of our 23-year-old toilet. Our other 2 toilets have newer components, so I thought I'd tackle replacing this myself. I've seen multiple online videos on how to repair a toilet. That, for me, seems to be the easy part.

Right now, I'm not even able to remove the old components because the plastic locknut under the tank (that connects the fill valve) is impossible to loosen.

Just so you know, the water supply line to the toilet is metal and rigid. The other two toilets have flexible toilet supply lines. I probably should replace the rigid line with a flexible one? (Yikes!)

I would like to post pictures of my "project", but don't know how to do that. Thanks for any help.

Annie


Hi... there doesn't seem to be an "edit" feature. Above when I wrote that it's easy replacing toilet components, I meant to put a smiley face after it. I've never tackled anything like this before, so that "easy" comment was tongue-in-cheek. :)

Hi Annie...

Take a hacksaw blade, wrap a cloth around it and then cut that plastic nut off by cutting into the plastic so you make a line through the entire nut. After you have a good deep cut into the nut you can take a flat screwdriver and set it into the cut and twist it to crack the nut and finally remove the fill valve.

You could also use a mini hack saw... see image.

Try that and let us know how you do... OK?

Mark

I would like to post pictures of my "project", but don't know how to do that

How do I add pictures and other file types to my post?
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How do I add pictures and other file types to my post?
A. "Attach" files (including pictures) from your computer. This method puts the attached file below the text of the post.
Click on an Ask or Answer button to ask or answer a question
Compose your question or answer in the window.
Under the window where you composed your question or answer is a section called Additional Options.
Click on the Manage Attachments button: a pop-up dialog will open. NOTE: The Manage Attachments dialog lists the maximum sizes of the various types of files that may be attached.
Click the Browse button to navigate to the image on your computer and double click the file on your computer: this will return you to the dialog window.
Click the Upload button.
Click the link to close the dialog window OR repeat numbers 5 & 6 to attach another image.
B. "Embed" image(s) from the internet. This method inserts an image wherever you wish within the text of your post.
Click the Insert Image icon above the posting window: A pop-up asking for the URL will open.
Enter the URL of the image in the field then click the OK button.

Hello Mark,

Thank you for your detailed assistance. I've posted 3 pictures of my "project".

One picture shows the inside of the old toilet.

The second picture shows the plastic coupling (successfully removed) sitting above the nut that connects the supply line.

The third picture shows the stuck locknut at the tank.

Just another issue I have. I unscrewed that supply line nut, and it started leaking, so I retightened it. (Yikes!) Do I have to shut off the entire water to the house in order to replace the supply line?

Thanks again.

Annie

Hi Annie:

That is plastic on plastic so it should go pretty easy with a little info... ;)

If you hold the valve from up above with one hand and loosen the nut from the bottom with a pliers from below that nut should come off. If that doesn't work, hold the nut on the bottom with your pliers and then use another pair of pliers to spin the valve counterclockwise from the top and loosen the valve... not the nut.

If that fails to work then you will need to cut a line across the plastic nut and crack the nut as described at earlier post.

Let us know if that made sense... O.K?

Mark

I hope your stop (valve) is holding.

As everyone said, plastic should easily come apart if you hold the other side, otherwise you have to cut and that's easy too.

Even a hot knife can work to cut off the nut.

Thank you so much, everyone. Tomorrow I'm going to get a mini hacksaw to tackle this issue and get this toilet working. I'll post again when I'll done.

Thank you again so much.


Well, thankfully, I didn't need a hacksaw.

The fill valve locknut was very snug, but with your help, my determination, and my trusty wrench, I got it out. Yeah! BUT, now I don't have the right tool size for the flapper locknut (under the tank).

I wish the Fluidmaster instructions advised the size of tools instead of just what tools needed. I think I need a large-size Channellock for this locknut. I can rent one instead of buying one. On the other hand, since I'm such an eager DIYer, I might just buy one to repair the other toilets, as needed. :)

Annie

Hello Annie,

Yes it is a good idea to buy a Channel lock you always need one, also I would suggest to buy a fluid master fill will and buy a flex supply line get rid of this rigid line, good luck.

John

Thanks John. I actually bought the FluidMaster Complete Toilet Repair Kit, as this toilet's insides (if you've seen the pictures above), are VERY old.

I also bought a Fluidmaster flexible toilet supply line (see below), but I wonder if I bought one that's too long. The existing rigid line is very short. Also, the existing metal nut is very small, and the one on the Fluidmaster is huge. The FluidMaster instructions say "one size fits all", so will it fit?

Thanks again.

Hi Annie:

Yup! An extra large pair of pliers or wrench will usually remove the large nut at the flush valve... usually... ;) If the nut is plastic you can always cut it off much like we suggested with the nut on the fill valve.

The toilet riser is the incorrect size. Did the kit come with metal adapters to reduce the size of the flexible tube? Otherwise, you'll need to order a 7/8" toilet supply nut x 3/8" compression x 12" toilet riser here. Best case is to take the old solid tube with you.

Back to you...

Mark

Thanks, Mark. I was at Lowe's with my little kids on Friday, telling them that mommy has to shop for things to fix the toilet, so I picked the Fluidmaster "one size fits all", since it said,"if you don't know what size you need, buy this Fluidmaster one", so I did. Now, I realize it's not a "one size fits all".

I don't think I'll go the hacksaw route to remove the flush valve nut. I'll buy a Channellock. I love tools, and I want to teach my kids that mommies can fix toilets too. They love helping me, sort of . :)

I'll report back.

You need a 12" by 3/8" supply line the one you have would not work, see the attach link and will show you how to install a toilet supply line, good luck.

John

YouTube - Keeney Manufacturing Toilet Supply Line Installation Tutorial (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qNhv1WGTaDk)

Thanks John and Mark.

I'm learning so much about toilet repair. Thanks for your help.

Would this size toilet supply line work?

Shop Watts 3/8" x 9" Flexible Braided PVC Toilet Supply Line at Lowes.com (http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=103889-104-LBLK+SPCT9-614CP&catalogId=10051&storeId=10151&langId=-1&productId=3136549)

Lowe's doesn't always give proper descriptions on their website.

So when you say 3/8", is that the metal nut size, and the larger number (7/8") is for the plastic coupling size (at the tank end)?

When someone says "channellocks", I think of this tool: GL6 - 6 inch GRIPLOCK® Tongue and Groove Plier @ Channellock (http://www.channellock.com/acb/stores/1/GL6_-_6_inch_GRIPLOCK_Tongue__P7.cfm) The slip joint pair of pliers

That and a pair of adjustible wrenches should be #1 on the list for plumbing.

Annie:

The 3/8" compression x 9" long toilet supply looks like it will work out well for you as the 12" one looked too long...just be sure that the end opposite the toilet nut is 3/8" compression.

In terms of pliers/channel locks, be sure to purchase the EXTRA LARGE PAIR of pliers (16")...a small (8") or regular size (12") plier won't work on the flush valve nut... too small. Purchase the extra large pair or you'll be using that hacksaw blade after all... ;)

Finally, they also make a SPUD WRENCH for this application, but you'll find only a couple applications for the tool so I recommend you stick with the extra large pair of pliers.

Good luck!

Mark

So Mark, I am returning the 16" Channellocks because they are way toooooo heavy and awkward for me to use. :(

I tried to remove the super large plastic flash valve locknut from the tank. I put WD-40 on it, and I got it turning with both hands on the Channellock, but I need one hand on the inside of the toilet, and another on this massive tool ... so it's not gonna work.

Is there an adjustable wrench with a large capacity I could use? 3" or more?

I think I have no choice but to go the hacksaw route, which I think will be easier. I am ever so close to finishing this toilet job. :mad:

Any thoughts on a good hacksaw? I don't want a cheap one. It'll only get me frustrated. I saw, on Amazon, very good reviews for a DeWalt 12" hacksaw, which our local Lowe's doesn't carry.

Thanks.

I thought I saw a pair of vise grips in your collection. If you use them on the portion sticking up in the inside of the tank, they will hit the side of the tank and prevent it from turning.

Now, you canuse both hands on the channel locks. Remember to adjust the channel locks, so it really should only require one hand on them.

Band wrenches, chain wrenches and pipe wrenches are just plain annoying to use.

Hi Annie,

As mark mentioned in his post #15 try if you can find spud wrenches it will work great for this job, see the images below, good luck.

John

KISS - Yes, I own a vice grip, but I'm a mommy DIYer (aka, do everything in the house myself) so I've never used it efficiently. I'm afraid that I might crack the inside of the tank using this method, then I'll have no choice but to buy a new tank! Also, I just don't like the 16" massive 460 Channellocks. Not sure why I even bought it. :D

John - can the spud wrench be used with one hand? I own a 10" crescent wrench. Is it about that size/weight? I found some for $8.00 on the internet.

Thanks.

Hi Annie...

Sorry about the size of those channellock pliers, but it's the only plier large enough to actually bite down on the nut and actually loosen it.

Since that didn't turn out so well, try the spud wrench me and Afaroo mentioned... only problem is that with some of the newer toilets, that spud wrench won't work... ;) Frustrating.. huh?

The other option of a hacksaw blade wrapped in a rag still stands and all you would need to do is to score a couple cuts across the plastic nut and then snap the old nut off.

Keep us posted!

Mark

Hi Mark, yup, that 16" Channellock is too big and too heavy for little person (me). :p

My husband is not a handyman at all, so he knows nothing about tools, just me. When he asks for a screwdriver, he says the "normal" one. Huh? I ask, "Phillips, Robertson, flat"? :D

I think I can file out the plastic end of the flush valve and that huge locknut. I think that's much easier than a hacksaw (tad scary!). :eek:

I turned enough of the locknut with the Channellock that I can actually stick a thin screwdriver into the toilet between the locknut and the tank, so I'm very, very, very, VERY close to getting this confounded thing off. :D

I will keep you posted.

Hi Annie...

Filing that plastic will not be easier than sliding a hacksaw blade in between the nut and the tank and just cutting off the flush valve... done from underneath the tank. This whole setup is plastic... very easy to cut.

Otherwise, I would recommend that you have your husband hold the flush valve while you unscrew the nut with the large pliers... make short work of this and be done with it.

Up to you, of course!


Mark

Suggestion

Purchase a PVC wire saw in the plumbing department. It is just a length of stranded wire with a plastic loop for finger holds. Should be just right for you and cutting the flush valve off. Only a few dollars.

See this video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZS7szCZrNXE) where a length of nylon cord is used in the same way.

Mark and h kstroud, guess what?? I GOT IT OUT.

I was very determined to remove this plastic locknut that I went to a store that had a sale on tools. They didn't have files or hacksaws, but I'm creative, so I bought sander discs: course 36 Grit 7 inch discs for heavy removal of wood, metal, plastic, etc.

And it worked. Took about an hour of heavy filing (sanding?), and it's out! See second picture. :D

Oh, and my husband is too condescending towards me fixing the toilet, because he and his mother think women should only be doing laundry and cooking and taking care of kids! He will not help at all. :)

That's why I want this thing done by myself.

Now, the next challenge is installing the new Fluidmaster components. I need to check online videos, since the paper instructions are practically useless for a first-time toilet-fixer-upper person.

Oh, and I think I'll need a new spud wrench to tighten the new flush valve locknut.

I'll keep you posted. Getting closer...

CONGRATULATIONS!!

Proud of you. Disagree with Hubby. You do anything you want to. You may or may not have the experience and some times you may not have the physical strength but you can still do anything. May just have to think more.

Makes me think of a "customer" of mine showing me her plumbing under her kitchen sink. She had a problem and hubby didn't know how to fix it. She went to the store and got some pipe and fittings, it went every where, but it worked.

Yes, you will probably have to have the spud wrench to get the fill valve back on. They are not expensive. When you are through, send Hubby the bill.

And don't let him use the toilet.

Thank you, Harold.

I was so eager to get this toilet working, and, I goofed. :rolleyes:

Yup, I forgot to read the tiny instructions about the flush valve installation, that said something about cutting it to proper height. Sigh!

I already had it bolted, and was testing the height of the fill valve installation when I realized my mistake. Fluidmaster really needs to improve on their instructions.

So, I guess I'll try the nylon thread method, since I don't want to remove the newly bolted flush valve.

This bathroom belongs to the kids, so my husband isn't allowed to use it. That's why I'm not worried about how much time it's taking to get it fixed.

I'm almost there... tomorrow I'll go shopping, as I'm doing my wifely chores of getting dinner ready right now. :D

Thanks to everyone so far.

Not a problem, I think I have the solution for you. Purchase a coping saw.

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/members/hkstroud-albums-+pictures-picture534-coping-saw.jpg

This is an inexpensive wood working saw for making scroll cuts in thin wood. Turn the blade side ways and you can get the saw in the tank to cut the overflow tube off with ease. Cut the overflow tube off a little below the height of the flush handle. That way, if something happens and the toilet tries to overflow, the water will go down the overflow tube and not out around the handle.

Just hold the top of the tube with one hand, put the coping saw blade along side where you want cut and saw away.
Using the nylon cord will probably put too much pressure on the thin overflow pipe and you may break it off.

To see what the ladies can do, check out this posting on another web site.
http://www.woodworking.org/InfoExchange/viewtopic.php?p=234521&highlight=&sid=2dd857a8adfab2f3574078401e1af666

Hi Annie:

Good for you! It seems that a determined soul will always prevail! You can use the coping saw that Harold posted or you could also use that mini hacksaw I mentioned earlier... either will work in cutting that flush valve down to size... ;)

When you do tighten the new flush valve into place be sure to tightrn it so it is snug, but not so tight that you crack the tank. Same holds true for the toilet tank bolts... snug them up so you have about a 1/4" play/rock in the tank when finished.

Good luck!

{Pat on the back}

Removal is sometimes most of the battle.

Although I didn't recommend it earlier, but silicone grease on the threads, available in the plumbing section, would help removal in the future.

I would like to add the link below just as info all the masters have given you excellent advices follow theirs instructions, good luck.

John

Replace The Toilet Fill Valve, Flush Valve Or Flapper | Plumbing Projects | Reader's Digest (http://www.rd.com/17646/article17646.html)

Thank you again, KISS, Mark, John.

I have one more question as I move forward towards the completion of this project.

When I saw off the end of the overfill tube, there's going to be debris left in the tank. Also, I now realize, that there is still some debris left when I was filing off the flushvalve lock nut yesterday.

I don't own a wet/dry vac. Will the minor dust/debris cause a problem with my newly installed Fluidmaster components? Please tell me it won't. :D

Thanks again.

Use a sponge and clean it as much you can do, other wise it would not be a problem, congratulation you did a good job an appreciate your updates, Thanks.

John

Hi all my wonderful helpers.

I am oh soooo close to completion. :)

Mark, I finally bought a hacksaw, a mini one, and it worked very well in sawing off the top of the overfill tube, while in the tank. I also bought a spud wrench (a combination adjustable wrench) at Lowe's.

So, now here is my latest (and hopefully, final) dilemma with this toilet thing.

I installed the complete Fluidmaster toilet kit. The problem I'm having is with the fill valve.

I removed the top cap, as suggested in the instructions, put a cup over the assembly, and turned on the water to test for leaks, etc.

No leaks. Yeah! Water came up the fill valve like a gyser (sp?). So I let the tank fill up a bit, and tested the handle and flush valve. Both working very well. Phew!

I replaced the cap on the fill valve and locked it, per their instructions. Then I turned on the water to almost full. Nothing happened. Nothing.

Did I not put the cap back on properly? I'm sure it's a very simple fix, and I want to get this fixed tonight. (My husband came home early from work and is irritated that I'm still working on the bathroom! :rolleyes:)

Thanks for all your help.:)

Annie

Hi Annie...

Take the cap off again, AFTER you shut the water off, reposition everything and then place everythiung back into place. Turn the water on again and that should do it. Be sure the washer sits into the valve correctly... pop back and let me know if issues continue and I'll direct you to a video on this. You'll finish tonight... :)

Mark

Hi Mark,

I've been looking for Fluidmaster fill valve videos online, and haven't found one yet.

I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I took off the cap and then tried to snap it back and nothing happened. I think maybe I'm rushing too much because I'm soooooo close to the finish line.

If you can send a link for a video, that would be great. The version of Fluidmaster I installed is the 404LG, complete kit. I guess all the components are the same in individual sets as well?

Thanks very, very, very much.

Hi Annie...

Check out John's link from earlier... has good info. Here:

Replace The Toilet Fill Valve, Flush Valve Or Flapper | Plumbing Projects | Reader's Digest (http://www.rd.com/17646/article17646.html)

Most likely, the washer is the issue. Take the cap off and try again.

I can't seem to find the video I wanted to find, but I'll keep trying... keep me posted.

Back to you...

Thanks Mark. I'll re-check John's link. I know it has a lot of useful info for someone like me.

While I was searching online for Fluidmaster toilet fill installation videos, I found many home videos of people showing how well their new Fluidmaster fill valve flushes! :rolleyes:

But... I did find a most interesting video from One2Flush. I bought my Fluidmaster full repair kit over a year ago. The One2Flush website has complete installation videos of an old toilet (like ours). Their toilet repair system saves a lot of money in every flush. I'm almost tempted to buy the set for $29. The savings per flush is astounding. In their installation video, there was no tricky fill valve cap installation problems. :)

I'm still attempting to get this Fluidmaster working, but I'm very tempted to buy the One2Flush. Here is their link: One2Products - Save Water, Save Money | Home (http://www.one2flush.com/installation.htm)

I'll keep you posted on my final installation. Thanks.

OK...

I'd suggest removing the parts, purging the water through the valve again, and if water flows recap... should be all set. This is the easy part... I promise!

I'll check on the one2products, but you're almost done now!

Hi Annie,

I agree with mark you are almost done remove the cap check the seal for proper seating and try I am sure it will work please don't gave up your are doing an excellent job, good luck.

John

..

Hello Hkstroud,

Great job done, I have mentioned this in my post #30, Thanks.

John

AARRRHHH! It's a l m o s t working. It must be so painful for you experts to hear my dilemma, since you all can fix this with one hand tied behind your back and blindfolded. :D

I got the water tank filling up, (YEAH!) but then when I flushed... it stopped. So I had to "tap" the float down a little to get the water going. Sigh!!

I think I'm just tired with my kids all day, so maybe I'll look at John's instructions again tomorrow morning, when I'm fresh as a daisy. :)

I'm sure this is an easy, easy, easy, super duper easy fix.

Thank you all soooooooooooo very much.

You're right... I'm dying to reach through the screen and just fix it! But the nice thing here is that when you're done you get to stick your tongue out at hubby and the mother-in-law... like this ---> :p

Fresh start will resolve this!

Great job to everyone involved on this. Thank you!

Make sure that float is not rubbing against the tank. Almost has to be that or the cap is not turned quite far enough.

Take a break, you deserve it.

Thanks, Mark. I want to stick my tongue out, go "Ptthhh", then put my thumbs in my ears and wiggle my fingers and say "na na na naa".:D

My mother-in-law and her fav son are two peas in a pod. My husband has no backbone when it comes to his mother. Whatever she says, goes! (LONG story here.) They both have the Jekyll and Hyde personality, and I worry that my older child has inherited that disorder. :eek:

Harold, I don't think the float is rubbing against the tank. I'll take a picture so you can see.

I'm up early (5:30 am) worrying over this.:)

I'll test again today and let you know.

BTW, whilst this is going on, our newest toilet (10 years old) in our powder room has been leaking when flushed. Groan! For that, I'm calling a plumber! I think it's the seal at the base of the toilet, right? I ain't lifting no heavy toilet off the floor. :) When it rains, it pours.

Good morning Annie,

Today is going to be a good day. You are going to fix the toilet and it's going to be easy.
When you get a chance get another fill valve, just a fill valve

Turn water off. Reach down under the black float, pull the gray plastic ring up.
Unhook the little black tube that goes from the fill valve to the over flow tube.

Pull the fill valve up and out of the toilet.

Separate the new fill valve the same way. Put the new fill valve on the shaft in the toilet. Top of fill valve should be just below the top of the tank. Push the gray ring down to lock in place. Reconnect little black tube to overflow pipe.

Paint MIL's picture on old float and put in trash.

Good morning Harold,

Ha ha to your comments. Love it. Actually, I'd like to put her face on a dart board. Hee hee heeee :D

This Fluidmaster toilet repair kit is brand new. The toilet had 23-year-old components, so I replaced all of them with new parts. When flushed, the Fluidmaster float just needs a gentle tap to start filling.

At least it's 99.99% working, so that makes me happy. No weird flushes, no running water.

But I am going to buy the new One2Flush, and replace this new Fluidmaster parts with it, now that I know how to replace toilet parts -- thanks to all of you. :) I've heard very good reviews about the One2Flush, and it saves a lot of money by conserving water, so we'll see.

Something is wrong right now, we just don't know what, may be cap not seated correctly, may be seal, it could be a defective part. By replacing with a complete new Fluidmaster valve you only have to unlock the locking ring, slide the new complete valve on, and the problem goes away no matter what it is. Fluidmaster is generally consider the top of the line.

My first ever toilet-repair is now officially complete.

I did it. :)

This last problem wasn't the cap; it was me. I needed to adjust the float, and the new Fluidmaster toilet is working like a charm. I wasted several gallons of water flushing 7 or 8 times, just to be sure.

Thanks to each and every one of you: Mark, Harold, KISS, John (did I miss anyone?). Each of you was so instrumental in my success.

Do you know what my husband said when I was working on this toilet? He said, "Why are you destroying the house?" Sigh! No compliments from him, but my little kids are very impressed with mommy. :)

I've put pictures of my finished product with the new Fluidmaster components and the new flexible toilet supply line. :D

Have a wonderful day.

Hello Annie,

Thanks for the updates, if there are no complements from your husband there are a lot of complements from us, you done excellent job congratulation for the job well done, Thanks.

Best Regards,
John

Congratulations!

Just a couple of things and your finished:

1. Move the little blue clamp on the hose to the top of the fill valve like it is on the other side. It's a mineature hise clamp and it keeps the tubig from falling off.

2. Remove the label on the flex line.

Thanks, KISS.

Re (1) will do.

Re (2), there are hose labels still attached to newer faucet hoses and the other two toilet supply lines in our house, done before we moved in five years ago. Hence, I figured, that must the normal thing to do; so if it needs replacing, someone else (like me) knows what size of hose to buy. Since I know what size I needed for this project, and I have pictures as proof, I can remove the label.

Just wondering if there is there a plumbing reason to remove hose labels?

Thanks for all your help.

(2) Lazy plumber

CONGRATULATIONS
KUDOOS
And
HIGH FIVES

Take you self out to dinner.

(I think Hubby is just jealous, but will be bragging about you to all his friends tomorrow .)

Congratulations to you...great effort! Here's the booby prize for the hubby...:D I can have a matching plunger mailed directly to your Mother-in-law for a small fee!

Just think! It only took six pages to change out that ballcock.
Congrats Annie on a job well done. Tom

Oh all my wonderful helpers. I'm not out of the woods, yet!!! Sigh! :(

I've had this new Fluidmaster toilet tank filled with water for at least three days, and for the past almost 48 hours, I've been flushing it, testing it. No leaks, whatsoever. Not even a drop.

This morning, I had a minor disaster. I was heading out the door to get my kids to school, when I needed to get something from that bathroom. I stepped on a squishy, soaking bathroom rug! Yikes! And Yuck! (I should mention, the bathroom toilet was fine at 6:30 a.m. when I did a test flush. By 8:30 a.m. the tank had leaked a lot.)

Having become a mini expert in toilet repair, I did not panic. :) I turned off the water, then checked for the leak. It was coming from both tank bolts, in a fairly steady "drip drip drip". So I emptied out the tank completely, cleaned up the floor and went on my errands.

Only now (around 4:30 pm) I'm able to check the situation again. The hex nut and metal washer on both bolts have come loose. I haven't removed the tank yet, but both hex nuts & metal washers jangled when I touched them. That shouldn't be.

My question is, how could they come loose? Did I miss a step in tightening them?

I will remove the tank and re-tighten the loosened nuts. I'm worried if this horrible leak should happen when I'm not home.

Thanks again.

Hi Annie,

Sorry to hear about this leak but it can be fixed easy, open the link below will give an idea that what is needed, check if the rubber washers are still there if not you would need to buy new rubber washers.
Reinstall the two bolts with new washers, as follows.
1. By hand very carefully reinstall the nuts and washers on the bolts, running them all the way up by hand.
2. With a wrench, very carefully final tighten the nuts, but not too tight as it is very easy to overload the china bowl or tank, resulting in breaking one or both, ruining the entire toilet assembly. The nuts don't have to be extremely tight just up snug so as to just slightly begin to compress the washers, good luck.

John

How to Replace a Tank-to-Toilet Gasket | eHow.com (http://www.ehow.com/how_2321838_replace-tanktotoilet-gasket.html)

John, thanks for your tips. I know this is an easy fix (fingers crossed).

I just checked the link you provided, and it mentioned using 3 rubber washers. Fluidmaster only asked to use 2. See their instructions:

- Bolt and rubber washer in the tank
- Brass washer and hex nut, below the tank <-- here, I would have preferred a rubber washer before the brass washer
- then rubber washer, brass washer and wing nut

http://www.fluidmaster.com/pdfs/6106_instructions.pdf

I will tackle this problem either later tonight or tomorrow morning and will report back.

Thanks very much.

Just another FYI. Fluidmaster came up with a newer valve that won't run. Basically if the tank water falls without flushing, the incoming water won't flow.

That basically fixes the scenero that you had. You would only have to mop up a tanks worth.

6 pages and counting

Empty tank and remove tank bolts. Dry bottom of tank well. Coat rubber washer on both sides with clear silicone. Reinsert in hole and install brass washer and hex nut. No reason you can't get additional rubber washer and put between brass washer and tank. Also coat it with silicone. Tighten until rubber washers are compressed. I, like everyone else here is afraid of over tightening and cracking the tank. I seriously doubt that you would be able to do that. Especially with a rubber washer on both sides. Sit tank back on bowl and install brass washers and wing nuts.

I suspect that you didn't tighten the hex nuts under the tank tight enough and when you tighten the wing nuts, that pulled the bolts down enough to seal the tank. As the tank sat there full of water for a few days, the weight of the tank and the water put enough pressure on the big gasket around the flush valve to compress it some. That would have made the wing nuts loose. Since the wing nuts, not the hex nuts were what was making the bolts water tight the tank would start leaking.
In other words you didn't tighten the hex nuts tight enough. The silicone will help a lot.

Hi Harold. I figured I must not have tightened the hex nuts. I tightened both by hand initially. Then, and I can't be sure if I tightened them a 1/4 turn or so with a wrench. Same with the wing nuts.

Can you help me with the clear silicone product? Any preferred brand?

This has been a true learning experience for me. :)

Thanks again.

Cheapest silicone on home center has. Tighten nuts on the bottom of the tank with wrench or pliers as tight as you can. I might could break tank but doubt that you could. It is the tightening of the nuts under the bowl that you have to be so careful with.

Update: I am a happy camper. :)

Thank you, Harold, for the silicone tip. It worked like a charm. No leaks in the tank bolts... 10 days and counting!