Check out these tips and explanations from our Senior Cars & Trucks Expert.

Of course, you're also welcome to post questions to this board for more information: Just click the "Ask about Cars & Trucks" button (NOT the Answer this Question button) at the top of the page. Be sure, though, to check the list below to see if your issue is already covered.

Members: Please do not post replies in this thread. If you have a question, click on the Ask About Cars & Trucks button above.

Honda:


. Honda OBD-II Diagnostic Trouble Codes (1996 and Later)
. Ignition Timing Adjustment
. Fuel Pump Test and Replacement
. Fuel Pressure Regulator Test
. Fuel Filter Replacement
. Main Relay Harness Tests
. Main Relay Ventilation Holes
. Fuel Injector Replacement
. Oxygen Sensor Replacement
. Headlight Replacement
. Combination Light Switch Replacement
. Headlight Adjustment
. Starter Motor Replacement
. Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement
. Battery Acid Damage
. Changing Spark Plugs
. Changing Engine Oil and Filter
. Changing Power Steering Fluid
. Changing Manual Transmission Fluid
. CV Driveshaft: Inspection
. CV Driveshaft: Removal
. CV Driveshaft: Disassembly
. CV Driveshaft: Repacking and Reassembly
. CV Driveshaft: Installation
. PCV Valve Replacement
. Clutch Pedal Maintenance
. Windshield Wiper Motor Replacement
. Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement


General Automotive:

. Preventing Coil-On-Plug (COP) Problems
. Antifreeze: Automaker Approved Chemistry
. Radiator and Heater Hose Replacement
. Radiator Winter Hyper Cooling (Winter Front)
. Eliminating Air Conditioning System Odors
. Importance of Changing Automatic Transmission Filter
. Serpentine Belt and Pulley Replacement
. Idler Pulley Bearing Replacement
. Reading a Tire's Manufacturing Date
. After Clearing Codes, How Many Miles Do You Need To Drive Before You Can Have The Car Inspected?
. Engine Misfires
. Rear Window Defogger Troubleshooting
. Toyota to Begin Requiring 0W-20 Synthetic Engine Oil
. Brake Booster Test
. Locating Vacuum Leaks
. Buying a Used Car or Truck
. Block/Head Sealers
. Heater Problems
. Buying a Salvage Engine
. GM's New Radio Code Procedure



Ford and Mercury:

. How-to Clean the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
. How-to Change the Fuel Filter on Most Ford Cars and Trucks
. How-to Replace Rear Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly on a 1996 thru 2001 Ford Taurus and Mercury Sable
. How-to Replace Front Sway Bar Bushings on Ford Tauruses and Mercury Sables
. How-to Perform Electronic Air Temperature Control (EATC) On-Board Diagnostic Tests on Many Fords and Mercurys
. How-to Stop Vacuum Hose Leaks
. How-to Remove and Install a Transmission Range Sensor (TRS)
. How-to Change Front and Rear Bulbs on a 2000 and Later Ford Taurus
. FordParts.Com
. Replacing Front Rotors on Ford 4x4s


See Also:
Reading Error Codes on 92-95 Civics (OBD-I Hondas) (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/reading-error-codes-92-95-civics-obd-hondas-18139.html)
"My Honda Civic Won't Start" (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-honda-civic-wont-start-read-here-before-you-post-9924.html)

12. Honda Ignition Timing Adjustment

1. Start the engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.

2. Adjust “Final Idle Speed” to 700 rpm, using the idle speed adjustment procedures above.

3. Turn off engine and all electrical systems.

4. Jump the Service Check Connector (SCC) with a paper clip.

5. Connect positive inductive timing light lead to the positive battery terminal.

6. Connect negative inductive timing light lead to engine ground.

7. Connect inductive timing light lead to the No. 1 spark plug wire.

8. Start engine.

9. Using the timing light, rotate the distributor, after loosening the three 12mm mounting bolts, until timing is set to 16 degrees BTDC* on the crankshaft pulley. 16 degrees BTDC should be the middle of the three clustered hash marks on the pulley. Align middle hash mark on pulley with pointer above. You may want to take chalk or yellow paint and highlight the hash mark first.

10. Button everything up.

11. Remove the BACKUP fuse for 10 seconds, in order to reset the computer. Record any radio codes first.

*D15B7/D15Z1/D16Z6 engines.



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31. Starter Motor Replacement

On most 4-cylinder Civics and Accords, the starter motor is located on the passenger's side of the transmission, just beneath and to the rear of the distributor. The large starter motor cable, from the positive battery terminal, goes right to it.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Disconnect the starter cable from the "B" terminal on the solenoid, then the BLK/WHT wire from the "S" terminal.

3. Remove the two bolts (14 mm) holding the starter; then, remove the starter. A 3/8-inch drive ratchet wrench or breaker bar, with a 6-inch extension, usually does the trick. Spray both bolts with PB Blaster, Kroil, or Liquid Wrench first.

4. Install in the reverse order of removal.

NOTE: When installing the starter cable, ensure the crimped side of the ring terminal is facing out. It's a good idea to clean both terminals and connectors with #240 abrasive cloth, or steel wool, and coat with dielectric grease.



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25. Honda Oxygen Sensor Replacement


Trick: Take a small flashlight and and figure out how the oxygen sensor's 4-wire pigtail connector comes apart--don't force it. Frequently, the trick is to gently separate the connector from the bayonet mount first; then, it easily comes apart or it's apparent how it unlocks. Honda connectors can be tricky and give some do-it-yourselfers a fit.


Background. The basic job of the sensor is to monitor the air fuel mixture under idle, moderate acceleration, and cruise conditions. Under heavy acceleration, the oxygen sensor goes into "open loop," which basically means the ECM ignores the oxygen sensor.

Removal. Remove heat shield, spray old oxygen sensor with PB Blaster or Kroil (let it sit for a while), spray with PB Blaster or Kroil again, warm-up car for several minutes, and use a 15-inch breaker bar on the end of a 22mm oxygen sensor socket to remove sensor. Afterwards, clean threads thoroughly with brake cleaner, allow to sit for quite a while and "air out," and install new oxygen sensor with anti-seize compound. Good cleaning technique is a must. Tighten to 33 lb-ft or 4.5 kg-m. Lightly coat heat shield bolts with anti-seize compound, before reinstalling the heat shield.

I am not a fan of universal oxygen sensors or those made by Bosch for Hondas. I recommend Denso sensors. Over time, you want the best sensor or you will pay for it in poor gas mileage and performance. Oxygen sensors are EXTREMELY sensitive to anything, particularly silicone spray, RTV sealers, WD-40, or any oil on the pigtail connector. Don't even use non-chlorinating brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner on oxygen sensor connectors. NEVER use any of these products around the oxygen sensor or pigtail connector. If you do, the ECM will keep throwing a code forever, once the engine warms up and is out of "open loop" mode. Remove pigtail connector and gently dress the male and female connectors with jeweler files, if you suspect any contamination.

After replacing the oxygen sensor, on OBD-I vehicles, clear the Check Engine Light by removing the Back Up (7.5 A) Fuse in the under hood fuse box, or by disconnecting the negative battery cable, for 10 seconds to reset the ECM. On OBD-II vehicles, use a code reader or scan tool to reset the ECM.

Excellent teaching thread on oxygen sensors:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/91-honda-accord-bogs-460682.html



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28. Honda Civic Headlight Replacement

1. Remove front turn signal/parking lights.

2. Remove front bumper.

3. Remove mounting bolts and nuts, remove headlight, and disconnect connector.

4. After replacement, adjust headlights to local requirements.



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18. Honda Civic Fuel Filter Replacement

The fuel filter should be replaced 1) every 4 years or 60,000 miles, whichever comes first, or 2) whenever the fuel pressure drops below 40-47 psi, with the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose disconnected and pinched, after making sure that the fuel pump and the fuel pressure regulator are OK.

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.

2. Place shop towel under and around fuel filter.

3. Relieve fuel pressure, by removing gas cap.

4. Remove 12 mm banjo bolt and 14 mm fuel feed pipe (use flare wrench) from fuel filter.

5. Remove fuel filter clamp and fuel filter.

6. Use new copper washers, when assembling.

7. Tighten banjo bolt to 16 lb-ft, service bolt (middle of banjo bolt) to 11 lb-ft, and fuel feed pipe to 28 lb-ft. Clean flared joint of high pressure hoses thoroughly before reconnecting.

CAUTION: Only change fuel filter when the engine is cold. Keep a Class B fire extinguisher ready. No smoking or open flames allowed (e.g. gas hot water heater, dryer, or furnace). Keep tools a safe distance from battery. Wear safety goggles.



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36. Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement

1. Suck brake fluid out of master cylinder reservoir, using a battery squeeze bulb.

2. Disconnect clutch pipe and reservoir hose from clutch master cylinder.

3. Pry out cotter pin, pull pedal pin out of the yoke, and remove mounting nuts.

4. Remove clutch master cylinder.

5. Install clutch master cylinder in reverse order of removal.

6. Bleed system.


Two items are important to remember about hydraulic clutches:

1. Don't overfill the clutch master cylinder reservoir.

2. Change brake fluid every 2 years, to flush crud from the system and replace fluid lubricity and corrosion properties.



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15. Fuel Pump Test and Replacement

Test

1. Remove rear seat.

2. Remove access panel (4 screws).

3. Disconnect the 2P connector.

CAUTION: Be sure to turn ignition switch OFF, before disconnecting the wires.

4. Disconnect the main relay connector and connect the BLK/YEL (5) wire and YEL/GRN (7) wire with a jumper wire.

5. Check for battery voltage at the fuel pump connector, when ignition switch is turned ON (position II). Attach red test probe to the YEL/GRN wire and negative probe to the BLK wire. If battery voltage is available, replace the fuel pump. If there is no voltage, check fuel pump ground and wire harness.


Replacement

1. Relieve fuel pressure, by removing fuel tank cap.

2. Remove rear seat.

3. Remove access panel (4 screws).

4. Disconnect fuel lines and connector.

5. Remove fuel pump mounting nuts.

6. Remove fuel pump from fuel tank.


WARNING: Do not smoke while working on fuel system. Keep open flames away from work area.



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11. Radiator Winter Hyper Cooling (Winter Front)

Our cold weather friends, living in places like Alaska, Canada, Northern Europe, and the Baltics, who are experiencing insufficient heat during the winter, may want to restrict the airflow through the radiator, by carefully rigging a plastic radiator cover (winter front). You may have to experiment with the proper size--better yet, make it adjustable. This is not an uncommon problem, during the winter, on some vehicles. I'm sure you have seen folding mechanical radiator covers on some delivery trucks. Your heater core, when the blower is turned on high, may be acting like an efficient radiator and dropping the engine temperature too much (hyper cooling). A simple "winter front" could make a big difference in your driving comfort, performance, and gas mileage.

Here are some pictures that may help:

Winter fronts from Alaska Tent and Tarp (http://www.alaskatent.com/products/covers/winter_fronts.htm)



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Wip

6. Honda OBD-II Diagnostic Trouble Codes (1996 and Later)

Plug scan tool into Data Link Connector (DLC), turn ignition to ON, and read code.

P0106--MAP Circuit Range Or Performance
P0107--MAP Circuit Low Input
P0108--MAP Circuit High Input
P0111--IAT Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0112--IAT Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0113--IAT Sensor Circuit High Input
P0116--ECT Circuit Range Or Performance
P0117--ECT Circuit Low Input
P0118--ECT Circuit High Input
P0122--TP Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0123--TP Sensor Circuit High Input
P0131--Primary HO2S Circuit Low Voltage (Sensor 1)
P0132--Primary HO2S Circuit High Voltage (Sensor 1)
P0133--Primary HO2S Circuit Slow Response (Sensor 1)
P0135--Front HO2S Heater Circuit Fault (Sensor 1)
P0137--Secondary HO2S Circuit Low Voltage (Sensor 2)
P0138--Secondary HO2S Circuit High Voltage (Sensor 2)
P0139--Secondary HO2S Circuit Slow Response (Sensor 2)
P0141--Secondary HO2S Heater Circuit Fault (Sensor 2)
P0171--System Too Lean
P0172--System Too Rich
P0300--Random Misfire
P0301--Misfire Cyl. 1 Or Random Misfire
P0302--Misfire Cyl. 2 Or Random Misfire
P0303--Misfire Cyl. 3 Or Random Misfire
P0304--Misfire Cyl. 4 Or Random Misfire
P0305--Misfire Cyl. 5 Or Random Misfire
P0306--Misfire Cyl. 6 Or Random Misfire
P0325--KS Circuit Malfunction
P0335--CKP Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0336--CKP Sensor Range/Performance
P0401--EGR Insufficient Flow Detected
P0420--Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold
P0441--EVAP Emission Control System Improper Purge Flow
P0451--Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Range/Performance
P0452--Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0453--Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input
P0500--VSS Circuit Malfunction (M/T)
P0501--VSS Circuit Range/Performance (A/T)
P0505--ICS Malfunction
P0560--Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Backup Voltage Circuit Low Voltage
P0700--A/T Concerns
P0720--A/T Concerns
P0725--A/T Concerns
P0730--A/T Concerns
P0740--A/T Concerns
P0753--A/T Concerns
P0758--A/T Concerns
P0763--A/T Concerns
P0780--A/T Concerns
P1106--BARO Circuit Range/Performance
P1107--BARO Circuit Low Input
P1108--BARO Circuit High Input
P1121--Throttle Position Lower Than Expected
P1122--Throttle Position Higher Than Expected
P1128--MAP Lower Than Expected
P1129--MAP Higher Than Expected
P1149--Primary HO2S (Sensor 1) Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P1162--Primary HO2S (No. 1) Circuit Malfunction
P1163--Primary HO2S (No. 1) Circuit Slow Response
P1164--Primary HO2S (No. 1) Circuit Range/Performance
P1165--Primary HO2S (No. 1) Circuit Range/Performance
P1166--Primary HO2S (No. 1) Heater System Electrical
P1167--Primary HO2S (No. 1) Heater System
P1168--Primary HO2S (No. 1) LABEL Low Input
P1169--Primary HO2S (No. 1) LABEL High Input
P1253--VTEC System Malfunction
P1257--VTEC System Malfunction
P1258--VTEC System Malfunction
P1259--VTEC System Malfunction
P1297--Electrical Load Detector Circuit Low Input
P1298--Electrical Load Detector Circuit High Input
P1300--Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P1336--CSF Sensor Intermittent Interruption
P1337--CSF Sensor No Signal
P1359--CKP/TDC Sensor Connector Disconnection
P1361--TDC Sensor Intermittent Interruption
P1362--TDC Sensor No Signal
P1366--TDC Sensor No. 2 Intermittent Interruption
P1367--TDC Sensor No 2 Signal
P1381--Cylinder Position Sensor Intermittent Interruption
P1382--Cylinder Position Sensor No Signal
P1456--EVAP Emission Control System Leak Detected (Fuel Tank System)
P1457--EVAP Emission Control System Leak Detected (Control Canister System)
P1459--EVAP Emission Purge Flow Switch Malfunction
P1486--Thermostat Range/Performance Problem
P1491--EGR Valve Lift Insufficient Detected
P1498--EGR Valve Lift Sensor High Voltage
P1508--IAC Valve Circuit Failure
P1509--IAC Valve Circuit Failure
P1519--Idle Air Control Valve Circuit Failure
P1607--ECM/PCM Internal Circuit Failure A
P1655--SEAF/SEFA/TMA/TMB Signal Line Failure
P1660--A/T FI Signal A Circuit Failure
P1676--FPTDR Signal Line Failure
P1678--FPTDR Signal Line Failure
P1681--A/T FI Signal A Low Input
P1682--A/T FI Signal A High Input
P1686--A/T FI Signal B Low Input
P1687--A/T FI Signal B High Input
P1705--A/T Concerns
P1706--A/T Concerns
P1738--A/T Concerns
P1739--A/T Concerns
P1753--A/T Concerns
P1758--A/T Concerns
P1768--A/T Concerns
P1773--A/T Concerns
P1785--A/T Concerns
P1786--A/T Concerns
P1790--A/T Concerns
P1791--A/T Concerns
P1792--A/T Concerns
P1793--A/T Concerns
P1794--A/T Concerns
P1870--A/T Concerns
P1873--A/T Concerns
P1879--A/T Concerns
P1885--A/T Concerns
P1886--A/T Concerns
P1888--A/T Concerns
P1890--A/T Concerns
P1891--A/T Concerns

OBD-II Code Definitions

Example:
P 0 1 0 1
1 2 3 4 5

1st digit
P = powertrain
B = Body
C = Chassis

2nd digit
0 = Standard
1 = Manufacturer specific

3rd digit
1 = Emission management
2 = Injector circuit
3 = Ignition
4 = Auxiliary emission
5 = Vehicle speed & idle control
6 = Computer & output circuit
7 = Transmission




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41. Battery Acid Damage

Few things can slowly and surely do as much damage to your car as battery acid. The results can be catastrophic; i.e. under-hood fuse/relay boxes, wiring harnesses, air conditioning hoses, power steering units, half axles, and battery trays can be ruined. One way to help prevent this is to not overfill batteries. If you do, acid mist will start to cover surrounding components, when the alternator charges the battery. Another way to help prevent battery acid damage is to make a battery cover. Take a plastic milk jug, cut a hole for the negative battery terminal, and size to fit half the battery. This will help protect the under-hood fuse/relay box on many Civics, which cost around $250, from battery acid. It will also help protect key wiring harnesses and air conditioning components from acid. Finally, I recommend removing the battery from the car every 6 months. During this time, wash the battery, check water levels, and inspect the car for acid damage. It helps to have a spray bottle of baking soda and water handy for problem areas. Strategically place a genuine copper penny or two under the tie-down clamp to help prevent acid build-up on the battery terminals.



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17. Fuel Pressure Regulator Test

The fuel pressure regulator maintains a constant fuel pressure to the fuel injectors. When the difference between the fuel pressure and manifold pressure exceeds 43 psi, the diaphragm is pushed upward, and the excess fuel is fed back into the fuel tank through the return line.

Test:

1. Attach fuel pressure gauge to service port of fuel filter. Pressure should be 40-47 psi, with fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose disconnected and pinched.

2. Reconnect vacuum hose to fuel pressure regulator.

3. Check that fuel pressure rises when vacuum hose from fuel pressure regulator is disconnected again. If fuel pressure did not rise, replace fuel pressure regulator.



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20. Main Relay Harness Tests

If you know the main relay is good, hopefully because you replaced it after 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever came first, but it still doesn't operate properly, the main relay harness needs to be inspected. Here's how to do it on many Honda 7-P relays:

1. Disconnect main relay connector. Check for continuity between BLK Terminal 2 and body ground. If there isn't continuity, repair an open in BLK wire between the main relay and the main ECM ground, located on the thermostat housing. If there is continuity, then:

2. Measure voltage between YEL/WHT Terminal 1 and body ground. If there isn't battery voltage, replace the ECM (15 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse box or repair an open in the YEL/WHT wire between the main relay and the ECM fuse. If there is battery voltage, then:

3. Turn the ignition switch to ON and measure voltage between BLK/YEL Terminal 5 and body ground. If there isn't battery voltage, then replace ACG (ALT) (S) (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse box or repair an open in the BLK/YEL wire between the main relay and the ACG (ALT) (S) (15 A) fuse. If there is battery voltage, then:

4. Turn the ignition switch to START. For manual transmissions, the clutch pedal must be depressed; for automatic transmissions, the gear selector must be in Neutral or Park. Measure voltage between BLU/WHT Terminal 6 and body ground. If there isn't battery voltage, replace STARTER SIGNAL (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse box or repair an open in the BLU/WHT wire between the main relay and the STARTER SIGNAL (7.5 A) fuse. If there is battery voltage, turn the ignition switch OFF, then:

5. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Next, disconnect the "A" connector from the ECM and check for continuity between GRN/YEL Terminal 8 and Terminals A7, A8. If there isn't continuity, repair an open in the GRN/YEL wire between ECM (A7, A8) and the main relay.



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29. Combination Light Switch Replacement

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.

2. Remove lower dashboard cover (3 screws).

3. Remove upper and lower steering column covers (3 screws).

4. Disconnect 4-P and 7-P connectors from combination light switch, remove both screws, and lift out switch.



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21. Main Relay Ventilation Holes

To reduce heat generated by the PGM-FI Main Relay, drill numerous small ventilation holes in the cover. This may help extend the relay's life.



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Wip

18. Serpentine Belt and Pulley Replacement

The generic information below is for all vehicles with serpentine belts.

1. Routing diagram. Before removing the serpentine belt, ensure you have a routing diagram. It's often located on the fan shroud. Sketch your own, or take pictures with your cell phone, if necessary.

2. Belt removal. Using a suitable serpentine belt tool, attach tool to spring tensioner and rotate in the appropriate direction to relieve belt tension. In order to get the necessary leverage, the tool may need to be at least 15 inches long; e.g. a flexible "T" wrench or breaker bar. Many auto parts stores loan specialized serpentine belt tools for free. With one hand, relieve belt tension; with the other hand, remove belt from auxiliary components. Afterwards, carefully release tensioner.

3. Tensioner and pulley removal. Unfasten bolt securing tensioner to engine block--on some vehicles, this step is unnecessary, depending upon whether pulley bolt is accessible or not. Next, unfasten bolt securing pulley to tensioner. Install new pulley/bearing (tighten 18 to 22 ft.-lbs.) and button up.

4. Belt replacement. Route new belt over various pulleys (water pump pulley last), rotate tensioner to allow belt to be installed, and then release tensioner. Ensure belt fits properly into pulley grooves. It must be completely engaged. On some vehicles, where space is particularly tight, use a 1/4" x 30" dowel to route belt over pulleys.

Serpentine drive belts are durable, long-lived components. Small cracks in the underside of a v-ribbed belt are acceptable. Lengthwise cracks, or missing pieces that cause the belt to make noise, are cause for replacement. Normally, I recommend belt and pulley replacement every 80,000 miles or 7 years, whichever comes first.



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30. Headlight Adjustment

Adjust headlights to local requirements, by turning its adjusters. Use a small flashlight to locate the horizontal and vertical adjusting points, which are gear mechanisms. Frequently, there's a slotted hole in the frame, going to the horizontal adjusting point, and a round hole in the frame, going to the vertical adjusting point. Use a #2 Phillips head screwdriver to rotate adjusters.



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42. Changing Spark Plugs

Remove old plugs when the engine is "stone" cold, to decrease the chance of stripping the aluminum head.

Use a 3/8-inch drive ratchet wrench, 6-inch quick-release extension bar (helps prevent socket from pulling off extension bar in the spark plug tube), and 5/8-inch spark plug socket. Spray the rubber insert in the spark plug socket with silicone spray, to further help prevent the socket from pulling off the extension bar in the spark plug tube. If you don't take these precautionary steps, the simple task of changing spark plugs can become frustrating. Otherwise, buy a GearWrench (#80546) magnetized extended 5/8" spark plug socket, with swivel. It eliminates the struggle of changing spark plugs. The magnetized core holds the spark plug in place and the extra long reach makes it easier to access tight spaces. It has a one-piece design, so the socket can't detach from the extension bar.

1. Remove the spark plug wire from the first plug. Carefully, remove the old spark plug. Check the gap of the new plug. I only recommend NGK spark plugs for Hondas--my experience with cross-referenced plugs has not been good. Normally, it's best to use the exact plug that came in the car. For hotter climates, use the next colder plug. Apply a thin coating of dielectric grease to the terminal nut and top porcelain insulator/corrugations of the new plug. Likewise, apply a half pea-size drop of anti-seize compound (preferably high-temperature nickel) to the lower threads, allowing rotation to spread the compound. If too much is used, plugs will "coke" in the holes. Insert spark plug in socket; attach extension bar; insert plug in hole; and tighten finger-tight, being careful not to cross-thread the plug. Some mechanics prefer to insert the plug into a 6-inch length of 3/8-inch I.D. neoprene hose, to prevent cross-threading the plug. Attach socket wrench and gently tighten the plug. Finally, use an inch-pound torque wrench to tighten the plug to the specified torque. Since anti-seize compound is a lubricant, reduce specified torque by 20% to prevent over-torquing and stripping threads.

2. Apply dielectric grease to the inside terminal of the spark plug wire, wipe wire down with silicone spray, reattach wire, and move on to the next plug.

3. Update Maintenance Log.


Change regular plugs every 24,000 miles or 24 months, whichever comes first. Change platinum plugs every 50,000 miles. Be careful not to leave platinum plugs in for more than 3 years or they may seize in the aluminum head. It's better to remove and reinstall them periodically.




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43. Changing Engine Oil and Filter

Always change engine oil, when the engine is hot. This allows a faster, more complete drain. If you change the oil when the engine is cold, dirt will cling to the sides of the block and pan.

1. Remove engine oil dip stick and filler cap, to facilitate draining and to prevent PCV valve contamination.

2. Place car on jack stands.

3. Place drain pan under car and remove oil filter, using a cap wrench and 3/8-inch ratchet wrench or a strap wrench.

4. Fill oil filter with engine oil, install filter, and torque to 16 ft.-lbs, using a cap wrench. Since most engine wear takes place at start up, filling the oil filter with oil prevents a "dry start." I recommend using premium oil filters. Premium oil filters have a red silicone rubber anti-drain back valve that makes a real difference in not allowing the oil to drain from horizontally-mounted oil filters overnight. This provides much quieter valves at startup. These new premium filters (e.g. PureOne, Amsoil Ea, and Mobil 1 EP) are worth the money, in my opinion. Filtration is rightfully the new "big thing" in lubrication.

5. Place drain pan under oil pan and, using a 17 mm box-end wrench, remove oil drain plug. When draining is complete, install drain plug hand-tight and torque to 33 ft.-lbs.

6. Lower car from jack stands.

7. Add recommend amount of approved weight engine oil to oil filler hole, using a funnel. I recommend buying the best full-synthetic lubricants available. I focus on European oil standards and buy engine oil that is both ACEA A3-rated and MB 229.3 or MB 229.5-rated for my vehicles. These are the toughest engine oil specifications in the world I'm aware of.

8. Replace oil dip stick and filler cap.

9. Start car and check for leaks. Ensure car is not overfilled with oil.

10. Update Maintenance Log--record "Date, Mileage, and Work Performed." Refer to it often. I use Microsoft Word and keep a Maintenance Log for each of my vehicles in my PC--it's incredibly handy and facilitates staying on top of maintenance.

11. Recycle old oil and filter.


Do your part to keep the air we breath clean, conserve oil and gasoline, and reduce global warming by using synthetic lubricants.


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45. Changing Power Steering Fluid

Only use Honda Genuine HG Power Steering Fluid, Part No. 08206-9002, or Amsoil's Synthetic Universal Power Steering Fluid (PSF). They must be Honda-specific. Using other fluids, such as ATF or other manufacturer's standard power steering fluid, will damage the system.

System Capacity: 1.1 liter (1.16 qt.)
Reservoir Capacity: 0.4 liter (0.42 qt.)

1. Raise reservoir and disconnect hose going to oil cooler.

2. Connect a suitable diameter hose to disconnected hose going to oil cooler; place other end of hose in a large, plastic jug.

3. Start engine, let it idle, and turn steering wheel lock-to-lock several times, to purge all old fluid and crud. When fluid stops running out of hose, shut engine off and discard fluid.

4. Reinstall return hose on reservoir.

5. Fill reservoir to upper level line.

6. Start engine, let it idle, and turn steering wheel lock-to-lock several times, to bleed air from system.

7. Recheck fluid level and add, if necessary.

8. Update Maintenace Log.

9. Recycle old fluid.

I recommend changing power steering fluid every 60,000 miles, due to the high expense associated with replacing pump, gearbox and valve body unit. More heat is developed in power steering units than most people realize.




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46. Changing Manual Transmission Fluid

Check fluid level with engine OFF and car on level ground

1. Warm engine to normal operating temperature.

2. Remove oil filler plug, using a 17 mm box-end wrench.

3. Remove drain plug, using a 3/8-inch ratchet wrench, and drain oil into a suitable pan.

4. Reinstall drain plug (using a new aluminum crush washer) and torque to 4.0 kg-m (29 lb-ft).

5. Add 1.8 liter (1.9 qt) of manual synchromesh transmission fluid, such as Amsoil 5W-30 Synthetic Manual Synchromesh Transmission Fluid (MTF), using a long-neck, transmission funnel. Alternatives are to add tubing to an existing funnel or use a pump. The oil level must be up to the filler hole.

6. Reinstall oil filler plug (using a new aluminum crush washer) and torque to 4.5 kg-m (33 lb-ft).

7. Update Maintenance Log.

8. Recycle old fluid.

No longer use 10W-30 or 10W-40 engine oil as manual transmission oil. Present engine oil formulations can damage the yellow metals in the synchros. Change every 30,000 miles or 24 months, whichever comes first


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19. Idler Pulley Bearing Replacement

Below is generic information for most modern-day vehicles:

Serpentine belt tension is set by the tensioner assembly, which consists of the spring tensioner and an idler pulley. Ideally, the tensioner assembly should be replaced when the serpentine belt is changed ($60.00+). In many cases, this is not the most cost-effective solution. Most people will replace the idler pulley, which costs about 30% of what the tensioner assembly costs ($18.00). For the more frugal, replacing the idler pulley bearing is an option ($1.80). Since space is normally tight on this side of the engine, access may be improved by moving the power steering reservoir aside or by removing the appropriate wheel and plastic wheel-well liner. Here's how to replace the bearing:

1. Remove idler pulley from tensioner, normally by using a 15 mm combination wrench.

2. Press out the old bearing. On many domestic cars, it's easy to drive the old bearing out of steel pulleys, using the ball end of a 32 oz. ballpein hammer on an anvil.

3. Place the new bearing in the freezer overnight. After heating the pulley with a hair dryer, the bearing should be easy to press in. Use a vise or shop press, if necessary.

4. Button things up.

The idler pulley should now be as good as new. Tighten the 15 mm mounting bolt 20 lb.-ft. on a standard NTN 6203 bearing, with a 17 mm inside diameter. This common bearing is frequently referred to as a "203" bearing.



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47. CV Driveshaft: Inspection

The following generic information applies to all FWD cars.

1. Driveshaft Boot. Check boots on each driveshaft for damage, cracks, leaking grease, or loose bands. Replace boots and bands, if damage is found. Try to do this at each oil change. Regular inspection may save a CV joint from replacement, allowing it to be repacked instead. Look for grease being flung all over the caliper, tire, and wheel. Don't be afraid to apply pressure to the boots and thoroughly examine them.

2. Twists or Cracks. Ensure driveshaft is not twisted or cracked. Even though this is unusual, it does happen. Replace driveshaft, if necessary.

3. Spline Looseness. Rotate driveshaft, by hand, and ensure spline and joint are not too loose. Replace inboard joint, if damage is discovered.




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CV Driveshaft: Removal

The following information is Honda specific.

1. Raise front of car and support on jack stands.

2. Remove lug nuts and front wheels.

3. Drain transaxle fluid. Often, this is unnecessary.

4. Raise locking tab on spindle nut and remove nut. With an air impact wrench, just back it right off.

5. Remove damper fork nut, bolt, and damper pinch bolt. Replace damper pinch bolts, if you can easily thread a non-self-locking nut past their nylon locking inserts.

6. Remove damper fork.

7. Remove cotter pin from lower arm ball-joint castle nut and remove nut.

8. Install 12 mm hex nut on ball-joint. Ensure hex nut is flush with ball-joint's pin end; otherwise, the threaded section of ball-joint pin might be damaged by ball-joint remover.

9. Remove ball-joint, using a ball-joint remover, from lower arm. Ensure ball-joint boot is not damaged. Apply Kroil or PB Blaster, if necessary, to loosen ball-joint.

10. Pull knuckle outward and remove driveshafts's outboard joint from front wheel hub, by using a plastic mallot.

11. Pry driveshaft assembly, using a pry bar or large screwdriver, from transaxle. This will force the set ring, at the driveshaft's end, past the groove.

12. Pull inboard joint and remove driveshaft from transaxle. Be careful not to pull on the driveshaft, as the inboard joint may come apart. To avoid damaging the differential oil seal, use care prying the assembly out. Be sure to pull it straight.

If the CV joint clicks, it's pretty much a waste of time trying to repair the axle--instead, replace it. This is particularly true, since the price of axles has dropped so much.


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CV Driveshaft: Disassembly

The following information is Honda specific. Honda does not recommend disassembling the outboard joint.

1. Clamp driveshaft in a vise with soft jaws.

2. Remove set ring from inboard joint.

3. Remove boot band, by prying up locking tabs with a screwdriver and raise end of band. If the boot band is the welded type, cut it off. Be careful not to damage the boot.

4. Mark each roller and inboard joint, to identify locations of rollers and grooves in the inboard joint.

5. Remove the inboard joint from the vise and place it on a shop towel on top of the workbench. Be careful not to drop the rollers, when separating them from the inboard joint. Examine splines for wear or other damage, check inside bore for wear, and look for any cracks.

6. Mark rollers and spider, to identify locations of rollers on spider.

7. Remove rollers and circlip (KD Tool 2534).

8. Mark spider and driveshaft, to identify position of spider on shaft.

9. Remove spider with a bearing puller.

10. Remove stopper ring.

11. Wrap driveshaft splines with vinyl tape, to prevent damage to boots and dynamic damper.

12. Remove boot band and inboard boot.

13. Remove dynamic damper band and dynamic damper.

14. Remove outboard boot bands, boot, and vinyl tape.

15. Inspect outboard joint for cracking, splitting, wear, and faulty movement. If any roughness or excess play is felt, replace the outboard joint.

16. Check outboard ring for damage.


If the boots are split, and need to be replaced, use a pair of diagonal cutters to cut the bands off; then, cut the boots off with a utility knife.



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CV Driveshaft: Repacking and Reassembly

The following information is Honda specific.

1. Wrap splines with vinyl tape, to prevent damage to boots and dynamic damper.

2. Install outboard boot, dynamic damper, and inboard boot to driveshaft. Remove vinyl tape.

3. Install stopper ring into driveshaft groove. Rotate stopper ring in its groove, to ensure it's fully seated.

4. Install spider on driveshaft, by aligning marks on spider and end of driveshaft.

5. Fit circlip into driveshaft groove. Rotate circlip in its groove, to ensure it's fully seated.

6. Pack outboard joint with joint grease included in the new driveshaft set (90 to 100 gm or 3.2 to 3.5 oz.). Amounts may vary with vehicle. Use Honda CV Joint Grease Outboard (Black), Honda Part No. 08798-9007.

7. Fit rollers to spider, with high shoulders facing outward. Reinstall rollers in their original positions on spider, by aligning the marks. Hold driveshaft pointed up, to prevent spider and rollers from falling off.

8. Pack inboard joint and inboard boot with joint grease included in new driveshaft set (120 to 130 gm or 4.2 to 4.6 oz.). Amounts may vary with vehicle. Use Honda CV Joint Grease Inboard (Yellow), Honda Part No. 08798-9003.

9. Fit inboard joint onto driveshaft. Reinstall inboard joint onto driveshaft, by aligning marks on inboard joint and rollers. Hold driveshaft assembly pointed up, to prevent inboard joint from falling off.

10. Adjust length of driveshafts to specs, then adjust boots to halfway between full compression and full extension. The ends of boots seat in groove of driveshaft and joint.

11. Install new boot bands on boots and bend both sets of locking tabs.

12. Lightly tap on doubled-over tab portions, to reduce height.

13. Position dynamic damper as shown below. Install new dynamic damper band and bend down both sets of locking tabs. Lightly tap on doubled-over tab portions, to reduce height.

Left: 75 +/- 2 mm (3.0 +/- .1 in.)
Right: 55 +/- 2 mm (2.2 +/- .1 in.)

Note: These representative figures may vary, depending on the car. Therefore, check the specs for your vehicle.

14. Install new set ring onto driveshaft or intermediate shaft groove.



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CV Driveshaft: Installation

The following information is Honda specific.

1. Install outboard joint in knuckle; then, loosely install a new spindle nut.

2. Insert inboard end of driveshaft into differential, until set ring locks in groove. Ensure inboard joint bottoms into differential and that set ring locks into groove of side gear.

3. Install damper fork over driveshaft and onto lower arm. Install damper in damper fork, so aligning tab is aligned with the slot in damper fork.

4. Loosely install damper pinch bolt, and a new damper fork nut with the bolt. The bolts and nut should be tightened with vehicle's weight on the damper. See Step 8, below.

5. Install knuckle on lower arm. Tighten castle nut (50 to 60 N-m or 36 to 43 lb-ft) and install a new cotter pin. Torque the castle nut to the lower torque specification; then, tighten it only far enough to align slot with pin hole. Do not align nut by loosening.

6. Tighten the new spindle nut.

7. Install front wheels (110 N-m or 80 lb-ft).

8. Tighten damper pinch bolt and new damper fork nut. Tighten damper pinch bolt to 44 N-m or 32 lb-ft. Tighten damper fork nut to 65 N-m or 47 lb-ft.

9. Refill transaxle, if necessary, with recommended fluid.

10. Check front wheel alighment and adjust, if necessary.



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52. PCV Valve Replacement

Perform every 60,000 miles or 4 years, whichever comes first.


1. Disconnect PCV Valve hose from throttle body, using a pair of pliers to remove spring clamp.

2. Remove PCV Valve and hose from intake manifold.

3. Disconnect PCV Valve from hose, using a pair of pliers to remove the other spring clamp. Using a spray can of brake cleaner, with the "straw" attached, spray inside of hose. This will remove any residual sludge, dirt, and sand. Take a pipe cleaner, dipped in fuel injector cleaner, and clean the port on the throttle body.

4. Install cleaned hose to a new PCV Valve and button everything up.

This will help your engine idle and perform better, last longer, and reduce emissions. Synthetic oils, with their lower NOACK Volatility (evaporation due to heat) characteristics, greatly reduce PCV Valve and hose contamination.




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6. Preventing Coil-On-Plug (COP) Problems

Many repair shops are reporting a large number of coil-on-plug (COP) failures with engines. The majority of problems are related to 1) customers washing their engines, or 2) body repair shops hosing off engines after repairing hood hail damage. Water seeps into the spark plug hole, where engine heat converts it to steam, and damages the coil.

Here are some rules to prevent the problem:

1. Never wash the engine, unless you cover the coils.

2. Always replace spark plug boots, when you change plugs.

3. Always replace the spark plug, when you replace a coil.

4. Always apply silicone dielectric grease to the rubber seal on the coil, where it connects to the engine; e.g. Motorcraft Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound (XG-3-A).


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24. Fuel Injector Replacement

1. Depressurize fuel system. On many Hondas, it's as simple as removing the gas cap. Other cars require removing the connector to the inertia switch in the trunk, or pulling the under-hood fuse to the fuel pump, starting the car, and waiting for the engine to stumble.

2. Disconnect negative battery cable.

3. Remove connectors from injectors.

4. Disconnect vacuum hose and fuel return hose from fuel pressure regulator. Place a rag over hoses, before disconnecting.

5. Disconnect fuel hose from fuel rail.

6. Loosen retainer nuts on fuel rail and harness holder.

7. Disconnect fuel rail.

8. Remove injectors from intake manifold.

9. Slide new cushion rings onto fuel injectors.

10. Coat new O-rings with clean engine oil and place on injectors.

11. Insert fuel injectors into fuel rail first.

12. Coat new seal rings with clean engine oil and press into intake manifold.

13. Install fuel injectors and fuel rail assembly into manifold. NOTE: To prevent damaging O-rings, install fuel injectors in fuel rail first, then install them in the intake manifold.

14. Align center line on connector with mark on fuel rail, if applicable.

15. Install and tighten retainer nuts.

16. Connect fuel hose to fuel rail with new washers.

17. Connect vacuum hose and fuel return hose to fuel pressure regulator.

18. Install connectors on injectors.

19. Turn ignition switch to ON, but do not operate the starter. After fuel pump runs for approximately two seconds, the fuel pressure in the fuel line rises. Repeat this two to three times, then check for fuel leaks.



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21. Reading a Tire's Manufacturing Date

Studies show that tires more than 6 years old can be very dangerous. Ensure that your "new" tires were recently manufactured, not sitting in the warehouse for years. Here's how to read the code on tires; for example, (3307) means the tire was manufactured in the 33rd week of 2007. The tire's manufacturing date is imbeded in the last code on the tire.



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13. Eliminating Air Conditioning System Odors

Air conditioner odors can be unpleasant and unhealthy. Here's an inexpensive approach to get rid of the problem. Mix a solution of liquid dish soap and bleach in a spray bottle. Attach a suitable hose and pump the solution in the evaporator coil drain tube, which is located on the passenger's side of the firewall. Be sure to insert the hose all the way in. Afterwards, flush everything out with clean water.


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Work in Progress.

14. Importance of Changing Automatic Transmission Filter

The link below highlights the importance of dropping and cleaning the transmission pan, changing the transmission filter (each time), and refilling with automatic transmission fluid every 30,000 miles:

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/filter_man_council01.pdf



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8. Antifreeze: Automaker Approved Chemistry

Using the wrong antifreeze in your vehicle can be a costly mistake. No "one size fits all" antifreeze is approved for use in all vehicles. Play it safe and consult your Owner's Manual. The link below may help:

http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/Zerex_CoolantChart.pdf

Use a 50/50 mixture of approved antifreeze and distilled water, in order to minimize deposit buildup (cheaper and better). Otherwise, buy prediluted ready-to-use coolant, which is a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and demineralized water (more expensive, but convenient).



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5. How-to Clean the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor

Cleaning the MAF Sensor can increase gas mileage, horsepower, and general performance. This sensor measures air velocity, which the computer uses to determine proper air/fuel mixture. When the sensor gets covered with oil, dust, pollen, and air filter fibers, it results in a "rich" running engine, loss of power and higher emissions. Many recommend cleaning this sensor every time the air filter is changed.

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.

2. Remove screws (usually two Security Torx T-20) securing MAF Sensor to air intake and carefully remove sensor.

3. Place sensor on a clean rag and spray hot-wires or hot plate with CRC MAF Sensor Cleaner 10 to 15 times, being careful not to touch the hot-wires. Be sure to spray all sides of the sensor and clean all wires and connectors. Other chemicals, such as brake cleaner and carburetor cleaner, are considered too aggressive, even though some people use them.

4. Allow sensor to thoroughly dry for 45 minutes.

5. Reinstall sensor in air intake and button everything up.



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6. How-to Change the Fuel Filter on Most Ford Cars and Trucks

The inline fuel filter is usually located under the car, just in front of the right rear wheel. On many Ford pickup trucks, it's located in front of the left rear wheel. Be sure to wear safety goggles and keep a fire extinguisher handy. Change fuel filter every 30,000 miles.


1. Raise vehicle and support securely on jack stands.

2. Depressurize the fuel system. The usual recommendation is to disconnect the inertia switch connector, usually located in the right-rear trunk trim panel, start the car, and allow the engine to stumble. Removing the connector cuts power to the fuel pump. I prefer the following TRICK: Pull the under hood fuel pump fuse (much easier). On my 2000 Ford Taurus, it's Fuse No. 16 (20A). Check your Owner's Manual. On many Ford pickup trucks, remove the fuel pump relay from the under hood fuse/relay box.

3. Clean fittings on each end of filter.

4. Disconnect hairpin clips from the filter, by carefully prying upward with a small screwdriver. Separate fuel line from connector nipples on both ends of the filter, using a large screwdriver. On pickup trucks, use a 5/16" angled fuel line disconnect tool (Lisle 39410). If the inside release mechanism (spring) is rusted, spray with WD-40, PB Blaster, or Kroil.

5. Remove filter from bracket and install new filter, noting the flow direction arrow. TRICK: Use plastic caps, that come with some filters, to prevent spilling gasoline from old filter. Retighten clamp.

6. Reattach fuel lines, making sure they are fully seated, and install new hairpin clips.

7. Reconnect inertia switch connector or replace fuel pump fuse/relay. It's good technique to clean oxidation from fuse or relay contacts (#240 abrasive cloth or steel wool) and lightly coat with dielectric grease.

8. Start engine and check for fuel leaks.

9. Update maintenance log.




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9. Radiator and Heater Hose Replacement

Replace radiator and heater hoses every 4 to 7 years. Ruptured hoses are a prime cause of aluminum block engines overheating, often resulting in warped heads, blown head gaskets, and damaged valves.

1. Drain coolant.

2. Remove hose clamp. Vise grips or standard hose clamp pliers work best. Don't waste your money buying spring-loaded hose clamp pliers (i.e. those with a cable)--the head is too large, in practice, to be any good. They look like they'd be great for getting into tight places; however, they are virtually useless.

3. Twist hose and see if it will come loose. If not, take a knife and cut the hose laterally along the nipple.

4. TRICK: Lightly coat the nipple with radiator hose grease (AutoZone), silicone grease, or white lithium grease. This prevents corrosion, allows easier positioning of hoses, and makes it much easier to remove hoses next time.

5. Install new hoses, clamps, and refill with coolant, following the manufacturer's procedure to eliminate air from the system.

6. Start engine, allowing it to reach normal operating temperature, and check for leaks.



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8. How-to Replace Rear Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly on a 1996 thru 2001 Ford Taurus and Mercury Sable

The following procedure is for a Ford Taurus (VIN S), with rear drum brakes and ABS. Wheel bearing noise typically develops around 100,000 miles.


1. Loosen wheel lug nuts, raise rear of vehicle, and support securely on jack stands. Block front wheels and remove rear wheels.

2. Remove brake drum (parking brake must be off).

3. Remove grease cap from hub.

4. Remove and discard hub retaining nut (36 mm). This is a compound nut, comprised of several nuts inside a metal cage. Use a 36 mm axle nut socket (e.g. OEM 25206). Many auto parts stores will lend you this socket. A 1/2-inch drive air impact wrench or breaker bar is necessary to remove the nut.

5. Remove wheel bearing/hub assembly from spindle.

6. Install new Timken Rear Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly, for Drum Brakes and ABS (Part No. 512162). Tighten new axle spindle nut (Dorman 05114) 221 lb.-ft. replace grease cap, and button everything up.


The procedure above is similar to that used on many FWD vehicles. Obviously, sizes and torque specs will differ and some nuts may require "staking" or cotter pin replacement.


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13. How-to Stop Vacuum Hose Leaks

Heat and ozone cause hoses to deteriorate and leak, over time. Once a vacuum hose is disturbed, particularly on older vehicles, it's prone to leak. This is particularly true on air conditioner vacuum hoses, which control diaphrams going to blender doors, where even small leaks can be disastrous.

Here's a possible solution to air vents not working properly. Separate the vacuum lines and carefully service the connections with silicone grease. This will help to recondition and restore the seal. Obviously, you must use common sense and not apply too much and plug openings.

An excellent product to use in this situation is Motorcraft Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound (XG-3-A). It's available at your local Ford or Lincoln/Mercury dealer. It's amazing the number of other applications this product can be used for; e.g. lubricating O-rings, rubber gaskets, disk brake caliper pins, radiator and heater hoses, plus using it as a dielectric compound for weatherizing battery and starter terminals and cables, main grounds, main ECM ground, ECM connectors, coils, spark plug connections, coating spark plug porcelein, and tail and brake lights. This product also helps prevent wet starting problems in seemingly small, but significant, ways. I mention these other applications, so you won't feel like you are spending money on a product with limited use. Attention to detail makes a big difference when dealing with vacuum hoses. Frequently, it's the difference between a system working or not working.



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25. After Clearing Codes, How Many Miles Do You Need To Drive Before You Can Have The Car Inspected?


It's not an issue of miles--it's a function of drive cycles. Some drive cycles require a cold start, warm up, and a certain number of miles at a certain speed. So, there's no set answer. It depends on the year, make, and model of the car, along with the specific trouble code.

After a code is erased, the computer "monitors" conditions, until the drive cycle has been completed. Then, it "resets" the monitors, making it okay for inspection. There's no way to manually reset the monitors.



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53. Clutch Pedal Maintenance

Here's a preventive maintenance step to restore silky-smooth clutch action:

1. Remove cotter pin and clutch pivot pin.

2. Clean pin and hole of dirt and old grease.

3. Lubricate pin with synthetic grease with moly. Valvoline SynPower Grease and Amsoil Synthetic Heavy-Duty Grease NLGI #2 (GHD) are excellent choices.

4. Install pivot pin, along with a new cotter pin.

You'll appreciate the "like-new" smooth action.



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10. How-to Replace Front Sway Bar Bushings on Ford Tauruses and Mercury Sables


1. Measure the diameter of the sway bar with a Vernier caliper. It needs to be exact; e.g. 13/16" or 20.5 mm. Sway bars come in many different diameters. If you don't have a Vernier caliper, use a strip of paper to carefully determine the sway bar's circumference. Then, use the formula Diameter = Circumference/3.1416.

2. Purchase a set of Energy Suspension Polyurethane Sway Bar Bushings. I selected 9.5107R (non-greasable) for my 2000 Taurus, with a 20.5 mm diameter sway bar.

3. Place car on jack stands, located under the rocker panels. Remove both front wheels.

4. Place a floor jack under each side of the subframe.

5. Disconnect both sway bar links from the sway bar (Very important). If you don't, the old U-brackets will bind on the mounting bolts.

6. Lower the subframe 1 inch, by losening the rear 18 mm bolts.

7. Remove 13 mm bolts (4) mounting the U-bracket to the subframe.

8. Pull the sway bar out enough and use an air cut-off wheel to cut through the old U-brackets and bushings length-wise. They are incredibly tough--don't waste your time trying to use an air chisel. Then, pry off the old brackets.

9. Clean sway bar with brake cleaner and grease the mounting area with silicone grease (with Teflon) that comes with the bushings.

10. Coat inside of each bushing with silicone grease, spread the bushing (slit facing forward), and place over the sway bar.

11. Place new U-bracket over each bushing, install spacers under the front portion of the U-bracket, and tighten 13 mm mounting bolts (4) 25 lb.-ft.

12. Raise subframe with the floor jacks. Tighten subframe bolts 66 lb.-ft.

13. Attach lower portion of sway bar link to the sway bar. Tighten sway bar link nut (18 mm) 40 lb.-ft.

14. Mount front wheels and tighten lug nuts 90 lb.-ft.

15. Lower car and test drive. Handling should be dramatically better and quieter.



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3. Black Smoke

1. If a diesel smokes, under any conditions other than full throttle or high load, something is wrong. Generally, too much fuel is being injected. At idle, or normal operating conditions found in the midwest of the U.S. and Canada, diesels shouldn't smoke.

2. Check engine oil level--ensure it's filled to the top line and that the oil and filter have been recently changed. Since this often affects fuel pressure (Ford), begin by ensuring it's properly filled.

3. Black smoke is usually a signal that there's too much fuel, not enough air, or injector pump timing is off. One of the most common causes is an air inlet restriction. The cause may be a dirty air filter, a collapsed intake hose, or an exhaust restriction.

4. Check air filter--ensure it has been changed recently (every 5,000 miles).

5. Check fuel injectors. Leaking injectors create an overly rich air/fuel mixture and cause black smoke. Take the valve cover off and look at the exhaust part of the injector, when it is running. Each time the injector fires, you should see oil exhausting from it. If you see oil coming out, then the injector is good. When replacing a bad injector, take the glow plug out and crank the engine to get any oil out of the cylinder. If you don't, you could hydro-lock and bend a rod.

6. Check turbo for carbon build-up and bent turbine blades. This ties into exhaust restriction.

7. Purge fuel filter or fuel separator of water. Do this at least monthly--daily, if necessary. Water can be a big problem with diesels. Watch for and treat bio-organisms.

8. Look into a commercial diesel fuel additive, which is available at most large truck stops. Try and find one that is pure biodiesel, intended to be mixed in the tank at a B20 or less rate. Look for the words "naturally produced oil" or "biodiesel" on the side of the can listing ingredients. Properly mixed, it will reduce the amount of smoke an older, worn engine produces.

9. Once you isolate and fix the problem, use full-synthetic heavy duty diesel engine oil (HDDO). Installing a by-pass oil filter makes using top-quality synthetics very cost effective, when integrated with a used oil analysis (UOA) program. All engines run better on synthetics, particularly turbo diesels. Besides significantly improved engine life, turbo life, performance, and gas mileage, synthetics promote easier starting, by allowing increased cranking speed. This last factor is particularly important in cold weather. Synthetics are also easier on batteries and starter motors. Finally, many diesel engines smoke dramatically less with synthetics. Anyone who has a turbo diesel and doesn't use full-synthetic HDDO is asking for trouble.




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4. Cavitation, SCA and Diesel Engine Cooling Systems


The presence of a few tiny bubbles, some so small that you need a microscope to see them, can destroy a diesel engine. Cavitation is a problem that has plagued diesel engine owners for years, which is the formation and collapse of air bubbles on the outside of the cylinder walls during combustion. It does not apply to dry-liner engines. Repeatedly, these air bubbles implode against the liner's surface. It erodes the cylinder liner, ultimately penetrating the combustion chamber and ruining the engine.

Cavitation is aggravated by vibration of the cylinder liner. Movement of the piston causes the liner to vibrate at a high frequency. When the liner vibrates, bubbles are formed in water passages next to the liner. These bubbles then implode against the cylinder liner. The implosion of the bubbles ultimately forms pinholes in the liner.

Understanding Cavitation

In elastic media, such as air and in most solids, there's a continuous transition as a sound wave is transmitted. In non-elastic media, such as water and in most liquids, there's continuous transition, as long as the amplitude or "loudness" of the sound wave is relatively low. As amplitude increases, however, the magnitude of the negative pressure in the areas of rarefaction (pockets of low pressure) becomes sufficient to cause the liquid to fracture, causing cavitation.

Cavitation bubbles are created at sites of low pressure, as the liquid fractures or tears, because of the negative pressure of sound waves in the liquid. As wave fronts pass, cavitation bubbles oscillate under the influence of positive pressure, eventually growing to an unstable size. Finally, the violent collapse of the cavitation bubbles results in implosions, causing shock waves to be radiated from the sites of the collapse. The collapse and implosion of many cavitation bubbles, throughout an ultrasonically activated liquid, results in an ultrasonic effect. Temperatures in excess of 10,000 degrees F. and pressures in excess of 10,000 psi, are generated as cavitation bubbles implode.

Effects on Engine

Air enters the system through leaks or through a faulty radiator cap. Leaks reduce cooling system pressure and increase the potential for bubbles to form in the coolant. These bubbles will eventually increase pitting. Water pump impellers and housings can be victims of cavitation, caused by low system pressure or by air trapped in the system. Cavitation can also damage radiators and heater cores.

Preventing Cavitation

Since cavitation cannot be completely prevented, Supplemental Coolant Additives (SCAs) are necessary to provide a continuous protective coating on the metal surfaces of the cooling system. This coating aides in controlling and limiting engine damage.

The most important way to control cavitation damage is to keep the cooling system clean by periodically flushing it. Using distilled water, combined with flushing agents, will scrub the system of impurities, scale, or other build-up, allowing for a "second chance" when refilling with a 50/50 mixture of auto maker approved antifreeze and distilled water.

When servicing the cooling system, always check for leaks or faulty pressure caps. These conditions can cause air leaks, reduce operating pressure, and allow bubbles to form.

Add 8 to 10 ounces of SCA every 15,000 miles, testing it with Fleetguard strips every other month. Completely drain and refill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of approved antifreeze and distilled water every 30,000 miles. Be sure to remove the hex-head drain plugs, located on each side of the engine block, after disconnecting the negative battery cable. This is a must on diesel engines. Cavitation must be taken very seriously.



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14. How-to Remove and Install a Transmission Range Sensor (TRS)

The Neutral Safety Switch is part of the TRS.


Removal:

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Place gear selector in Neutral (N).
3. Remove air cleaner and air cleaner outlet tube, if necessary.
4. Disconnect TRS electrical connector.
5. Remove manual control lever from transaxle.
6. Remove TRS retaining bolts (2).
7. Remove TRS.

Installation:

1. Ensure gear selector is in Neutral (N).
2. Install TRS and loosely install both retaining bolts.
3. Align TRS slots using TRS Alignment Tool.
4. Tighten TRS retaining bolts 9 to 12 Nm (80 to 106 inch-lbs.) and remove tool.
5. Connect TRS electrical connector.
6. Install transaxle manual control lever--tighten 11 to 16 Nm (98 to 141 inch-lbs.).
7. Install air cleaner outlet tube and air cleaner.
8. Connect negative battery cable.
9. Check for proper operation with parking brake on. The engine should start only in Park (P) or Neutral (N).



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2. Diesel Smoke Summary: Black, White, and Blue


Exhaust gases from a diesel engine should be colorless. Smoke of any color is a clue that it's not running properly. Here's what exhaust smoke tells you:

• Black smoke is a sign of engine overload, restricted air supply, or malfunctioning injector. For some reason, excess unburned fuel is being blown out the exhaust. Black smoke is usually a signal that there's too much fuel, not enough air, or injector pump timing is off. One of the most common causes of this condition is an air inlet restriction. The cause may be a dirty air filter, a collapsed intake hose, or an exhaust restriction.

Installing a power chip can cause engine overload (boost gauge maxing out), black smoke, and engine shut down. I usually recommend using the standard OEM chip. On a diesel engine, injecting more fuel will result in more power--up to a certain point. This is almost opposite of a gasoline engine, where adding fuel and richening the mixture excessively will kill performance and lower power. A diesel engine is totally different. As you add more fuel and richen the mixture, power output will continue to climb, until the point that there is so much fuel that much of it is unburned (or partially burned black smoke) and then the power increase will taper off. Before the power increase drops off dramatically, however, you'll be facing another limiting factor--exhaust gas temperature (EGT). Adding more fuel makes more power, but it also raises EGT. If you add too much fuel and exhaust gas temperatures get too hot, then you can seriously damage your engine. Hence, an important reason to only use full synthetic HDDO. Full synthetic HDDOs also help control or eliminate black smoke, in many situations, by allowing the engine to run much more efficiently, even when overloaded.

• White smoke is a sign of water vapor or fuel that has been atomized, but not burned. Water vapor may be present in the fuel, or water may be leaking into the cylinders from the cooling system. Also, air in the fuel can cause white smoke. White smoke usually occurs when there is not enough heat to burn the fuel. The unburned fuel particles go out the tailpipe and typically produce a rich fuel smell. It's not unusual to see white smoke in the exhaust, during cold weather, until the engine warms up. Bad glow plugs (burned out, coated with carbon, or not receiving proper start-up voltage) or a faulty glow plug control module can cause white smoke on engine start up. Low engine cranking speed may also produce white smoke. If white smoke is visible after the engine has warmed up, the engine may have one or more bad injectors, retarded injection timing, or worn injection pump. Low compression can also be a source of white smoke.

• Blue smoke forms when the engine's lubricating oil is being burned, indicating worn piston rings, valve guides, or seals. Also, the oil can come from an air filter overfilled with oil or an overfilled crankcase.



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5. Diesel Fuel and Cold Weather


Wax, naturally found in diesel fuel, begins to form crystals, as the temperature drops. The cloud point is the point at which crystals form. Eventually, crystals clog the fuel filter and starve the engine of fuel or prevent it from starting.

Traditionally, one solution is to use #1 diesel fuel, which is diesel fuel diluted with kerosene. There are several disadvantages with using #1 diesel fuel, despite its advantage in low-temperature operations. First, the energy content is about 95% of #2 diesel fuel, resulting in less horsepower and reduced fuel economy. Second, the kerosene used in #1 diesel fuel provides less lubrication for the fuel distributor and fuel pump, increasing the likelihood for wear.

There are products on the market, such as Amsoil Diesel Recovery, that dissolve the wax crystals that form when diesel fuel has surpassed its cloud point. It will liquefy gelled diesel fuel and thaw frozen fuel filters. Since diesel fuel quality varies wildly from one filling station to another, low-quality fuel can have cloud points as high as 40 degrees F.

Check these type of products out. They can reduce the cold filter-plugging point (CFPP) by up to 34 degrees F, in ultra-low-sulfur diesel fuel (ULSD), and up to 17 degrees F, in biodiesel. They also lower the fuel's pour point. Emergency diesel fuel treatments may help you avoid a costly towing charge.

Steps to improve cold weather diesel starting:

1. Use the appropriate winter viscosity of full synthetic HDDO for your vehicle.

2. Add Amsoil Diesel Concentrate Plus Cold Flow Improver (DFC) to diesel fuel in the winter, prior to crystal formation. Use this product throughout the winter months, starting at 40 degrees F.

3. Add Amsoil Diesel Recovery Emergency Fuel Treatment (DRC) to diesel fuel, after crystal formation.

4. Install a engine block heater for temperatures below -25 degrees F.

5. Ensure both batteries are fully charged and the battery terminals and cable connections are clean. Apply dielectric grease.



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12. How-to Perform Electronic Air Temperature Control (EATC) On-Board Diagnostic Tests on Many Fords and Mercurys


NOTE: Intermittent (run time) trouble codes will be deleted after 80 ignition cycles.


The Remote Climate Control (RCC) module is capable of displaying both self-test faults and intermittent (run time) faults on the Integrated Control Panel (ICP). To obtain these codes, perform the following EATC on-board diagnostics test:

. On-board diagnostics should be run in ambient temperatures between 50 and 90 degrees F. Record all Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) displayed during diagnostic test mode.

. Turn ignition switch to RUN position.

. Push both OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously; then, press AUTO within two seconds.

. The test may run as long as 30 seconds, while the display will show a dashed line in the center of the display window.

. After about 20 seconds, a DTC will appear in the display. The self-test is completed when 888 appears in the center of the climate control display window of the ICP.

. To exit the self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs, press the "-" (cooler) side of the TEMP button. The RCC module will exit the self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs.

. Always exit the self-test, before powering the system down (system turned off).

. Refer to a DTC Index for additional help. Here are several common self-test faults:

024--A/C Electronic Blend Door Actuator Failure
030--In-Car Temperature Sensor Short
031--In-Car Temperature Sensor Open
040--Ambient Temperature Sensor Short
041--Ambient Temperature Sensor Open
050--Sunload Sensor Short

. Some heating and air conditioning control problems are solved just by running the self-test.



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26. Engine Misfires


Most common engine misfires can be solved by:

1. Replacing platinum spark plugs with the exact ones (same brand and part no.) that came in the vehicle and ensuring they are properly gapped. If the vehicle came with single platinum plugs, changing them to double or quadruple platinum plugs can cause misfires, particularly if the gap is different. Therefore, I recommend using single platinum plugs and changing them every 50,000 miles. On FWD V-6 engines, be sure to change the rear plugs, despite the hassle.

2. Applying dielectric grease to the spark plug's porcelein and electrode.

3. Changing coils and coil packs, if changing spark plugs did not solve the problem. Bench testing coils is not reliable, since most break down under load (heat). Therefore, be sure to change coils and coil packs every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. Apply dielectric grease to terminals.

4. Replacing Ignition Control Module (ICM). These problematic components should be replaced every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. Bench testing ICMs is not reliable, since most break down under load.

5. Ensuring coil-on-plugs are squarely centered on the plug's electrode.

6. Changing spark plug wires every 80,000 miles. Regularly, wipe down plug wires with silicone spray, being very careful to keep it away from oxygen sensors.

7. Checking for intermittent codes that did not trigger the Check Engine Light.

8. Checking engine compression and looking for intake manifold leaks, in extreme cases.

9. The link below, provided by kitch428, covers a number of advanced techniques for diagnosing engine misfires:

Determining the missing elements in misfires - Misfires occur when the combustion process is incomplete, so you need to find what's missing. - Motor Age - Automotive training, certification & parts (http://motorage.search-autoparts.com/motorage/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=630169&pageID=1&sk=&date=)




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30. Toyoto to Begin Requiring 0W-20 Synthetic Engine Oil

Driven by increasingly stringent emission and fuel economy standards, Toyota has informed its dealers that the company will begin requiring SAE 0W-20 synthetic engine oils in new Toyota, Scion and Lexus vehicles over the next several years. Other OEMs are expected to follow suit by 2011. Among the benefits cited by Toyota are enhanced protection at high and low temperatures, improved fuel economy and reduced engine deposits. In addition, Toyota is reportedly studying increasing oil drain interval recommendations to 10,000 miles.

15. How-to Change Front and Rear Bulbs on a 2000 and Later Ford Taurus


Front:

1. Remove mounting bolt near the front grille (8 mm).

2. Pry up both retaining slides (look for two rubber-coated tabs), located on the rear of the headlight housing, with a screwdriver.

3. Pull the housing outward, disconnect the electrical connector from the headlamp bulb, and remove the housing from the vehicle.

4. Remove and replace the headlamp (Sylvania 9007) and amber turning signal (Sylvania 3357), after cleaning the connectors with WD-40.

5. Button things up.

6. Adjust headlamps with the vehicle parked level, gas tank half full, and nothing in the trunk.


Rear:

7. Remove parcel restraining web and tie-down, pull back trunk liner, and remove five nuts (11 mm) securing the tail light cover with a nut driver.

8. Remove and clean tail light cover.

9. Remove old bulbs--back-up light (Sylvania 921) and tail light (Sylvania 3057). Spray and clean connectors with WD-40.

10. Snap-in new bulbs, replace cover, and button things up.


Don't touch bulbs with your fingers because the oil from your skin could cause it to overheat and fail prematurely. This is particularly true of headlamp bulbs.


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16. FordParts.Com

Enter your 17-character VIN and verify the part number you need:

Motorcraft (http://www.fordparts.com/Landing/Motorcraft.aspx)

Great site to research Ford automotive products.



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54. Windshield Wiper Motor Replacement

1. Open hood, remove cap nuts, and carefully remove wiper arms.

2. Remove hood seal and air scoop, by prying out trim clips.

3. Disconnect 5-P connector from windshield motor and remove wiper harness from wiper linkage.

4. Remove wiper linkage assembly, by removing three mounting bolts.

5. Remove three mounting bolts and one nut from the wiper linkage, to remove wiper motor.

6. Install wiper motor in reverse order of removal.



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56. Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement


1. Loosen wheel nuts slightly.

2. Raise rear of car and support securely on jack stands placed under the rocker panel.

3. Remove wheel nuts and rear wheel.

4. Pull the parking brake lever up.

5. Remove hub cap, raise locking tab on spindle nut, and remove spindle nut (32 mm socket) with a breaker bar or impact wrench.

6. Release parking brake and remove drum. If you have disc brakes, remove the caliper shield and brake hose mounting bolt. Remove caliper, suspending it to one side on a wire; remove caliper bracket mounting bolts and caliper bracket; and remove brake disc.

7. Remove and install new hub unit. Button everything up, apply parking brake, and tighten a new spindle nut to specification. Civic spindle nuts are often tightened 134 lb.-ft. (18.5 kg-m). Stake the spindle nut shoulder against the spindle with a ball pein hammer and chisel.


Bearing life, to a large extent, is a function of preloading the bearing properly and ensuring the seal keeps water and contaminants out. Preload represents a tight bearing setting, whereas endplay represents a loose setting. Therefore, use good technique, a new spindle nut, and an accurate torque wrench when tightening spindle nuts. When you store a "click" type torque wrench, set it to zero.



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32. Brake Booster Test

Functional Test:

1. With engine off, depress brake pedal several times; then, depress the pedal hard and hold that pressure for 15 seconds. If the pedal sinks, the master cylinder, brake line, or brake caliper is bad.

2. Start engine with pedal depressed. If the pedal sinks slightly, the vacuum booster is working. If the pedal height does not vary, the booster or check valve is faulty.

Leak Test:

1. Depress the brake pedal with the engine running, then stop the engine. If the pedal height does not vary, while depressed for 30 seconds, the vacuum booster is fine. If the pedal rises, the booster is faulty.

2. With the engine off, depress the brake pedal several times using normal pressure. When the pedal is first depressed, it should be low. On consecutive applications, pedal height should gradually rise. If the pedal position does not vary, check the booster check valve.

Check Valve Test:

1. Disconnect brake booster vacuum hose at booster.

2. Start engine and let it idle. Vacuum should be available--if not, the check valve is not working correctly. Replace the check valve and retest.



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60. Distributor Bearing Replacement

See the link below:

Guide to Distributor Bearing Replacement - TheZCR.com Forums (http://thezcr.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12945)

I regret that I did not do this, when the bearing in my Civic's distributor failed--it would have been a great project! If you suspect damage to any of the internal sensors (CKP, TDC, or CYP), then I would pass on this project. Red dust inside indicates the bushing is shot and the distributor housing needs to be replaced.

This link on using temperature differentials to mount bearings should help:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-13.html#post2527737



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6. Ford Diesel PSD Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs)

P0107--Barometric pressure sensor circuit low input. Frequent Cause: PCM's internal barometric sensor.

P0108--Barometric pressure sensor circuit high input. Frequent Cause: PCM's internal barometric sensor.

P0112--Intake air temp. sensor circuit low input. Frequent Cause: Grounded circuit, biased sensor, PCM.

P0113--Intake air temp. sensor circuit high input. Frequent Cause: Open circuit, biased sensor, PCM, short to 5v.

P0122--Accelerator pedal sensor circuit low input. Frequent Cause: Grounded circuit, biased sensor, PCM.

P0123--Accelerator pedal sensor circuit high input. Frequent Cause: Open circuit, biased sensor, PCM, short to 5v.

P0197--Engine oil temp. sensor circuit low input. Frequent Cause: Grounded circuit, biased sensor, PCM.

P0198--Engine oil temp. sensor circuit high input. Frequent Cause: Open circuit, biased sensor, PCM, short to 5v.

P0220--Throttle switch B circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Short/open circuit, switch failure, operator, PCM.

P0221--Throttle switch B circuit performance. Frequent Cause: Failed pedal assembly.

P0230--Fuel pump relay driver failure. Frequent Cause: Open FP relay, blown fuse, open/grounded circuit.

P0231--Fuel pump circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Fuse, relay, inertia switch, fuel pump, open/short circuit.

P0232--Fuel pump circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Relay failure, short circuit, pump failure.

P0236--Turbo boost sensor A circuit performance. Frequent Cause: Restricted inlet/exhaust/supply hose, missing hose.

P0237--Turbo boost sensor A circuit low input. Frequent Cause: Circuit open, short to ground, MAP sensor.

P0238--Turbo boost sensor A circuit low high. Frequent Cause: Circuit short to power, MAP sensor.

P0261--Injector circuit low. Frequent Cause: Cylinder 1 Harness short to ground.

P0262--Injector circuit high. Frequent Cause: Cylinder 1 Miswired connector or harness.

P0263--Cylinder 1 contribution/balance fault. Frequent Cause: Power cylinder, valve train or injector problem, circuit.

P0264--Injector circuit low Cylinder 2. Frequent Cause: Harness short to ground.

P0265--Injector circuit high Cylinder 2. Frequent Cause: Miswired connector or harness.

P0266--Cylinder 2 contribution/balance fault. Frequent Cause: Power cylinder, valve train or injector problem, circuit.

P0267--Injector circuit low Cylinder 3. Frequent Cause: Harness short to ground.

P0268--Injector circuit high Cylinder 3. Frequent Cause: Miswired connector or harness.

P0269--Cylinder 3 contribution/balance fault. Frequent Cause: Power cylinder, valve train or injector problem, circuit.

P0270--Injector circuit low Cylinder 4. Frequent Cause: Harness short to ground.

P0271--Injector circuit high Cylinder 4. Frequent Cause: Miswired connector or harness.

P0272--Cylinder 4 contribution/balance fault. Frequent Cause: Power cylinder, valve train or injector problem, circuit.

P0273--Injector circuit low Cylinder 5. Frequent Cause: Harness short to ground.

P0274--Injector circuit high Cylinder 5. Frequent Cause: Miswired connector or harness.

P0275--Cylinder 5 contribution/balance fault. Frequent Cause: Power cylinder, valve train or injector problem, circuit.

P0276--Injector circuit low Cylinder 6. Frequent Cause: Harness short to ground.

P0277--Injector circuit high Cylinder 6. Frequent Cause: Miswired connector or harness.

P0278--Cylinder 6 contribution/balance fault. Frequent Cause: Power cylinder, valve train or injector problem, circuit.

P0279--Injector circuit low Cylinder 7. Frequent Cause: Harness short to ground.

P0280--Injector circuit high Cylinder 7. Frequent Cause: Miswired connector or harness.

P0281--Cylinder 7 contribution/balance fault. Frequent Cause: Power cylinder, valve train or injector problem, circuit.

P0282--Injector circuit low Cylinder 8. Frequent Cause: Harness short to ground.

P0283--Injector circuit high Cylinder 8. Frequent Cause: Miswired connector or harness.

P0284--Cylinder 8 contribution/balance fault. Frequent Cause: Power cylinder, valve train or injector problem, circuit.

P0301--Fault cylinder 1 Misfire detected. Frequent Cause: Mechanical engine failure.

P0302--Fault cylinder 2 Misfire detected. Frequent Cause: Mechanical engine failure.

P0303--Fault cylinder 3 Misfire detected. Frequent Cause: Mechanical engine failure.

P0304--Fault cylinder 4 Misfire detected. Frequent Cause: Mechanical engine failure.

P0305--Fault cylinder 5 Misfire detected. Frequent Cause: Mechanical engine failure.

P0306--Fault cylinder 6 Misfire detected. Frequent Cause: Mechanical engine failure.

P0307--Fault cylinder 7 Misfire detected. Frequent Cause: Mechanical engine failure.

P0308--Fault cylinder 8 Misfire detected. Frequent Cause: Mechanical engine failure.

P0340--Camshaft position sensor ckt. Malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open/grounded circuit, sensor fault, short to power.

P0341--Camshaft position sensor ckt. Performance. Frequent Cause: Harness routing, charging circuit, sensor.

P0344--Camshaft position sensor ckt. Intermittent. Frequent Cause: Harness routing, charging ckt. sensor, int. ckt. improper gap.

P0380--Glow plug circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open/grounded ckt. solenoid open/shorted, failed PCM.

P0381--Glow plug indicator circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open/grounded circuit, lamp open, failed PCM.

P0460--Fuel level sensor circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open/short circuit, cluster, tank unit, open case GND.

P0470--Exhaust back pressure sensor circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Biased sensor, open signal return.

P0471--Exhaust back pressure sensor circuit performance. Frequent Cause: Plugged, stuck or leaking hose.

P0472--Exhaust back pressure sensor circuit low input. Frequent Cause: Open/grounded circuit, biased sensor, PCM.

P0473--Exhaust back pressure sensor circuit high input. Frequent Cause: Circuit shorted to 5v, biased sensor, PCM.

P0475--Exhaust pressure control valve malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open/grounded ckt. solenoid open/shorted, failed PCM.

P0476--Exhaust pressure control valve performance. Frequent Cause: Failed/stuck EPR control, EBP fault, EPR circuit.

P0478--Exhaust pressure control valve high input. Frequent Cause: Plugged sensor line, stuck butterfly, restricted exhaust.

P0500--Vehicle speed sensor malfunction. Frequent Cause: Sensor, circuit, PCM, PSOM, TR failure, low trans. Fluid.

P0503--Vehicle speed sensor noisy. Frequent Cause: Harness routing, sensor.

P0541--Manifold intake air heater... Frequent Cause: Open/short circuit.

P0542--Manifold intake air heater... Frequent Cause: Grounded circuit.

P0560--System voltage malfunction. Frequent Cause: Charging system problem/load, glow plugs still enabled.

P0562--System voltage low. Frequent Cause: Low sys. Voltage, charging sys. internal PCM failure.

P0563--System voltage high. Frequent Cause: High sys. voltage, charging sys. internal PCM failure.

P0565--Cruise "On" signal malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open or short circuit, switch failure, PCM failure or failed to activate switch during KOER switch test.

P0566--Cruise "Off" signal malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open or short circuit, switch failure, PCM failure or failed to activate switch during KOER switch test.

P0567--Cruise "Resume" signal malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open or short circuit, switch failure, PCM failure or failed to activate switch during KOER switch test.

P0568--Cruise "Set" signal malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open or short circuit, switch failure, PCM failure or failed to activate switch during KOER switch test.

P0569--Cruise "Coast" signal malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open or short circuit, switch failure, PCM failure or failed to activate switch during KOER switch test.

P0571--Brake switch A circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Cruise control codes will be set on every switch test on vehicles not equipped with cruise control.

P0603--Internal control module KAM error. Frequent Cause: Open PCM pin, disconnect B+, faulty PCM.

P0605--Internal control module ROM error. Frequent Cause: Internal PCM failure.

P0606--PCM processor fault. Frequent Cause: Internal PCM failure.

P0640--Manifold intake air heater... Frequent Cause: Circuit open or shorted to ground.

P0670--Glow plug control circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open/grounded circuit, failed GPCM, failed PCM.

P0671--Glow plug #1 circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Circuit/connector failure, failed glow plug, failed GPCM, PCM.

P0672--Glow plug #2 circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Circuit/connector failure, failed glow plug, failed GPCM, PCM.

P0673--Glow plug #3 circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Circuit/connector failure, failed glow plug, failed GPCM, PCM.

P0674--Glow plug #4 circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Circuit/connector failure, failed glow plug, failed GPCM, PCM.

P0675--Glow plug #5 circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Circuit/connector failure, failed glow plug, failed GPCM, PCM.

P0676--Glow plug #6 circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Circuit/connector failure, failed glow plug, failed GPCM, PCM.

P0677--Glow plug #7 circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Circuit/connector failure, failed glow plug, failed GPCM, PCM.

P0678--Glow plug #8 circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Circuit/connector failure, failed glow plug, failed GPCM, PCM.

P0683--Glow plug diagnostic signal communication fault. Frequent Cause: Circuit/connector failure, failed GPCM, PCM.

P0703--Brake switch B circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open/short circuit, switch, PCM, failed to activate switch during KOER switch test.

P0704--Clutch switch input circuit malfunction; F650-F750 with Allison AT545: neutral switch. Frequent Cause: Open/short circuit, switch, PCM, failed to activate switch during KOER switch test.

P0705--TR sensor circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Resistance in circuit, faulty sensor, PCM.

P0707--TR sensor circuit low input. Frequent Cause: Open in circuit, biased sensor, PCM.

P0708--TR sensor circuit high input. Frequent Cause: Open in circuit, biased sensor, PCM, short to power.

P0712--Trans. Fluid temp. sensor ckt. Low input. Frequent Cause: Short to ground, biased sensor, PCM.

P0713--Trans. Fluid temp. sensor ckt. High input. Frequent Cause: Open in circuit, biased sensor, PCM, short to power.

P0715--TSS sensor circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Short/open circuit, sensor, PCM.

P0717--TSS intermittent failure. Frequent Cause: Short/open circuit, sensor, PCM.

P0718--Noisy TSS. Frequent Cause: Erratic signal, sensor, intermittent circuit.

P0720--OSS sensor circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Short/open circuit, sensor, PCM.

P0721--Noisy OSS. Frequent Cause: Erratic signal, sensor, intermittent circuit.



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7. Ford Diesel PSD Diagnostic Trouble Codes (Continued)

P0722--OSS intermittent failure. Frequent Cause: Short/open circuit, sensor, PCM.

P0732--Gear 2 incorrect ratio. Frequent Cause: Mechanical/hydraulic failure, 4x4 switch failure.

P0733--Gear 3 incorrect ratio. Frequent Cause: Mechanical/hydraulic failure, 4x4 switch failure.

P0741--Torque converter clutch ckt. Performance. Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, faulty solenoid, PCM.

P0743--Torque converter clutch system electrical. Frequent Cause: Faulty solenoid, circuit, PCM.

P0750--Shift solenoid A malfunction. Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, faulty solenoid, PCM.

P0755--Shift solenoid B malfunction. Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, faulty solenoid, PCM.

P0781--1-2 Shift malfunction. Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, faulty solenoid, faulty clutch, PCM.

P0782--2-3 Shift malfunction. Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, faulty solenoid, faulty clutch, PCM.

P0783--3-4 Shift malfunction. Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, faulty solenoid, faulty clutch, PCM.

P1000--OBDII monitor status. Frequent Cause: OBDII monitors/drive cycle incomplete.

P1105--Dual alternator upper fault (monitor). Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, alternator failure, PCM.

P1106--Dual alternator lower fault (control). Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, alternator failure, PCM.

P1107--Dual alternator lower circuit malf. (control). Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, alternator failure, PCM.

P1108--Dual alternator BATT lamp ckt. Malf. Frequent Cause: Open/short circuit, lamp, fuse, PCM.

P1118--Manifold air temp sensor out of range low. Frequent Cause: Short to GND MAT circuit, MAT sensor.

P1119--Manifold air temp sensor out of range high. Frequent Cause: Open/short to PWR circuit, MAT sensor.

P1139--Water in fuel lamp circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: WIF lamp, circuit failure, fuse, PCM.

P1140--Water in fuel condition. Frequent Cause: Water in fuel, grounded circuit, shorted sensor, PCM.

P1184--Engine oil temp out of self test range. Frequent Cause: Engine too cold/hot, leaking thermostat, ckt. sensor.

P1209--ICP system fault. Frequent Cause: IPR valve stuck.

P1210--ICP above expected level. Frequent Cause: ICP sensor, open signal return.

P1211--ICP pressure above/below desired. Frequent Cause: IPR valve failed, stuck, or shorted to ground.

P1212--ICP voltage not at expected level. Frequent Cause: Biased sensor or ckt. open signal return, low oil in reservoir.

P1218--CID stuck high. Frequent Cause: CID circuit open, probably intermittent.

P1219--CID stuck low. Frequent Cause: CID circuit short to ground, probably intermittent.

P1247--Turbo boost pressure low. Frequent Cause: MAP hose, sensor, EBP sys, intake leaks, turbo.

P1248--Turbo boost pressure not detected. Frequent Cause: MAP hose, sensor, EBP sys, intake leaks, turbo.

P1249--Waste gate steady state failure. Frequent Cause: GND short, plugged hose/port, solenoid, actuator.

P1260--Electronic positive anti-theft system failure. Frequent Cause: Refer to appropriate workshop manual.

P1261 to P1268--High to low side short cyl. # 1-8. Frequent Cause: Short circuit, shorted injector, failed IDM.

P1271 to P1278--High to low side open cyl. # 1-8. Frequent Cause: Open circuit, open injector, failed IDM.

P1280--ICP circuit out of range low. Frequent Cause: Open/grounded circuit, biased sensor, PCM.

P1281--ICP circuit out of range high. Frequent Cause: Circuit shorted to 5v, biased sensor, PCM.

P1282--Excessive ICP pressure. Frequent Cause: Faulty IPR regulator (sticking), IPR short to ground.

P1283--IPR circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Open/grounded circuit, stuck IPR, loose connection.

P1284--ICP failure aborts KOER CCT test. Frequent Cause: See codes P1280, P1281, P1282, P1283, P1211.

P1291--High side # 1 (right) short to grd. Or B+. Frequent Cause: Short circuit, faulty IDM.

P1292--High side # 2 (left) short to grd. Or B+. Frequent Cause: Short circuit, faulty IDM.

P1293--High side open bank No. 1 (right). Frequent Cause: Open circuit, faulty IDM.

P1294--High side open bank No. 2 (left). Frequent Cause: Open circuit, faulty IDM.

P1295--Multiple faults on bank No. 1 (right). Frequent Cause: Miswired connector or harness, short to ground.

P1296--Multiple faults on bank No. 2 (left). Frequent Cause: Miswired connector or harness, short to ground.

P1297--High sides shorted together. Frequent Cause: Shorted wires, faulty IDM.

P1298--IDM failure. Frequent Cause: Internal IDM failure.

P1316--Injector circuit/IDM codes detected. Frequent Cause: Injector circuit failure/IDM codes detected.

P1391--Glow plug circuit low input, bank #1 (right). Frequent Cause: Open/short/miswired circuit, faulty relay, glow plugs.

P1393--Glow plug circuit low input, bank #2 (left). Frequent Cause: Open/short/miswired circuit, faulty relay, glow plugs.

P1395--Glow plug monitor fault, bank #1. Frequent Cause: One or more glow plugs failed or circuit fault.

P1396--Glow plug monitor fault, bank #2. Frequent Cause: One or more glow plugs failed or circuit fault.

P1397--System voltage out of self test range. Frequent Cause: Voltage too high or low for glow plug monitor test.

P1464--A/C on during KOER CCT test. Frequent Cause: Operator error, A/C circuit shorted to power.

P1501--Vehicle moved during testing. Frequent Cause: Operator error.

P1502--Invalid test APCM functioning. Frequent Cause: APCM active while KOER test is running.

P1531--Invalid test accelerator pedal movement. Frequent Cause: Accelerator moved during KOER on-demand or CCT test.

P1536--Parking brake applied fail. Frequent Cause: Circuit, switch, PCM, failed to activate switch KOER.

P1660--OCC signal high. Frequent Cause: High system voltage, internal PCM fault.

P1661--OCC signal low. Frequent Cause: Low system voltage, internal PCM fault.

P1662--IDM EN circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Open relay, blown fuse, open/grounded circuit.

P1663--FDCS circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Open/grounded circuit, faulty IDM.

P1667--CID circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Open/grounded circuit, faulty IDM.

P1668--PCM/IDM diag. communication error. Frequent Cause: Open/shorted EF or FDCS wire, open IDM grd.

P1670--EF signal not detected. Frequent Cause: Open/shorted EF circuit.

P1690--Waste gate failure. Frequent Cause: WGC circuit or solenoid, PCM.

P1702--TRS sensor intermittent circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Sensor, wiring, PCM, mechanical alignment.

P1704--Digital TRS failed to transition state. Frequent Cause: Sensor, wiring, PCM, mechanical alignment.

P1705--TR sensor out of self-test range. Frequent Cause: Operator error, circuit failure, faulty sensor, PCM.

P1711--TFT sensor out of self-test range. Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, faulty sensor, PCM.

P1713--TFT stuck in range low below 50F. Frequent Cause: Sensor, circuit, PCM.

P1714--Shift solenoid 1 inductive. Frequent Cause: Circuit, solenoid, PCM.

P1715--Shift solenoid 2 inductive. Frequent Cause: Circuit, solenoid, PCM.

P1718--TFT stuck in range high above 250F. Frequent Cause: Sensor, circuit, PCM.

P1728--Transmission slip error. Frequent Cause: Solenoid failure or mechanical failure.

P1729--4x4L low switch error. Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, faulty switch, PCM.

P1744--Converter not functioning. Frequent Cause: Converter solenoid/hydraulic/mechanical failure.

P1746--EPC solenoid open circuit. Frequent Cause: Open circuit, faulty solenoid, PCM.

P1747--EPC solenoid short circuit. Frequent Cause: Short circuit, faulty solenoid, PCM shorted to ground.

P1754--Coast clutch solenoid ckt. Malfunction. Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, faulty solenoid, PCM.

P1760--EPC solenoid short intermittent. Frequent Cause: Switch not detected during self test, circuit, switch.

P1780--TCS circuit of out self-test range. Frequent Cause: Circuit, switch, PCM, failed to activate switch KOER.

P1781--4x4L circuit out of self-test range. Frequent Cause: Operator error, short to ground, PCM.

P1783--Transmission overtemperature condition. Frequent Cause: Internal trans. Failure, circuit failure, sensor, PCM.

P1902--Kickdown solenoid relay control circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Blown fuse, failed relay, open control circuit, faulty PCM, faulty wiring.

P1903--Kickdown solenoid circuit low voltage. Frequent Cause: Blown fuse, failed relay, open control circuit, faulty PCM.

P1904--Kickdown solenoid circuit high voltage. Frequent Cause: Blown fuse, failed relay, open control circuit, faulty PCM, open in ASMM (circuit #175).



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36. Locating Vacuum Leaks

Only perform the tests below with the car outdoors, with a working fire extinguisher at hand, and with the engine cold.

The sign of a vacuum leak is often that the engine stalls but will start right back up. If your scan tool indicates that the engine is trending rich, look for a vacuum leak, since a vacuum leak creates a lean condition which the ECM compensates for by enriching the mixture.

1. Start engine and listen for high pitch leak sounds.

2. Spray carburetor cleaner around intake manifold, base of injectors, PCV valve, vacuum hoses, and EGR valve. You have located the leak, when you hear the engine rpm increase or the engine stalls with the spray. It's safer to use a propane leak tester, which you can make yourself. Remove the nozzle to a propane torch and attach a two foot long piece of tubing.

3. Reset the ECM, once you locate and repair the leak. If gas mileage was negatively affected, it may take a while for internal monitors to normalize.



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37. Buying a Used Car or Truck


The check list below is not all-enclusive. If the engine and transmission are in good shape, everything else is, relatively, less significant.


1. Check the condition of the engine. Remove the oil filler cap and look inside. If the oil is oxidized or a gooey mess, walk away. Reach inside with your finger and rub it against the valve cover. If it's nice and clean, you likely have a well-maintained engine. Also, check the exhaust, while the engine is running, for any sign of smoke or gasoline smell. White smoke is prima facie evidence of a blown head gasket or cracked head. Blue smoke indicates oil is being burned. If the blue smoke appears only during acceleration, the valve seals or valve guides are shot. Continuous blue smoke is a sign the rings are shot. If in doubt about the engine, remove all of the spark plugs and check each cylinder's compression. Record the results for analysis. Ensure that the Check Engine Light does not stay on. Verify that the engine oil and filter were changed regularly; i.e. 3,000 miles or 3 months for conventional oil, 6,000 miles or 6 months for full synthetics. Is the engine smooth, powerful, and quiet?

2. Check the transmission. While the engine is hot, and in Park, remove the dipstick and see if the ATF comes to the top of the FULL mark. The fluid should be pink and not have a burnt smell. Ensure the transmission upshifts and downshifts smoothly, not harshly. Verify that the fluid and filter were changed every 30,000 miles.

3. Check the cooling system. Remove the radiator cap and look inside. Signs of rust, mineral build-up, gel, or other signs of neglect should cause you to move on. Examine the contents of the overflow tank--anything besides coolant is suspect. Observe where the temperature gauge rides. Ideally, the coolant (50/50 antifreeze and distilled water) was changed every two to three years.

4. Check the brakes. Look for leaking brake fluid around the master cylinder, calipers, and wheel cylinders. Check the thickness of the brake pads and shoes. Ensure the ABS light does not come on. Test drive the vehicle and observe the brakes. Pay attention to stopping quality, steering wheel shimmy upon braking, pulling, and any noises (e.g. worn wheel bearings). Ideally, the brake fluid was changed every two years.

5. Check heating, air conditioning, and defrosting systems. Ensure the heater and air conditioning systems work really well. Verify that the rear window defroster works.

6. Check the charging system. Ensure that the battery light does not come on, while the engine is running. If it has a voltmeter or ammeter, note where the needle rides. Attaching a multimeter to the battery terminals, with the engine idling, the regulated battery voltage should be 14 to 15 volts.

7. Check condition and level of fluids; e.g. engine oil, coolant, brake fluid, hydraulic clutch (brake) fluid, and power steering fluid.

8. Check the tires. Ensure the tires are name brand, quality tires. Look for signs of unusual tread wear.

9. Check the suspension. Look for sagging--an indication of worn springs or struts. Jack up the front end of the car. With your hands at 3 and 9 o'clock, check for tie-rod wear. With you hands at 12 and 6 o'clock check for ball joint wear.

10. Check door and trunk gaskets for leaks. Ensure that the car was never flooded.

11. Check the maintenance log. Review log and back-up receipts for work performed.

12. Check the body for dents, dings, and other body work.

13. Verify that the stereo, GPS, power windows, power seats, and other electrical systems work.

14. Check Kelly Blue Book and/or Edmunds.com prices, for starters.

15. Get the VIN, obtain a Carfax Report on the vehicle, and review its history. Ensure there are no liens on the car, that the title is clean and transferable, and that you are dealing with the legal owner (check I.D.).



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38. Block/Head Sealers

I'm skeptical of all of these products! People come on this site claiming stop leak products work--most of whom work for the manufacturer. All I've ever seen, in real life, is the mess created afterwards--residue formed around the thermostat, radiator cap, and a token layer of crud around some parts of the head gasket (not enough to seal anything). My opinion is to fix it right or leave it alone. I would not use them on my vehicles. These overpriced products prey on the poor and desperate.



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Wip

39. Heater Problems


Most heater problems are a result of poor preventive maintenance, which causes corrosion and/or phosphate scale to develop in the heater core. Changing coolant every 2 to 3 years, using a 50/50 mixture of manufacturer recommend antifreeze and distilled water, will prevent these problems.


1. Ensure the radiator is full of coolant.

2. Ensure there is no air in the system.

3. Ensure heater hoses are not kinked or collapsed.

4. Replace the thermostat, which may have stuck open.

5. Check if the inlet and outlet lines to the heater core are hot, when the heater is turned to high. This tells you if coolant is circulating properly. If both lines are not hot, the heater core may be blocked, due to corrosion or phosphate scale, or the heater control valve may not be working properly. In this case, reverse flush the heater core. Afterwards, refill with a 50/50 mixture of manufacturer recommended antifreeze and distilled water. If the heater core is plugged, and the flush and fill does not solve the problem, then either the heater core or heater control valve needs to be replaced.



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40. Buying a Salvage Engine

I recommend, if necessary, paying extra for a warranty covering the engine and labor, since there's a fair degree of risk.


Be careful buying an engine from salvage--it's easy to get burned! Most low mileage salvage engines have been involved in an accident. Check out the engine very carefully. First, remove the oil filler cap and look for obvious signs of oil oxidation on the cap, rocker arms, and valve cover. Take your finger and rub it across the underside of the valve cover. Look for signs of sludge, wear, rust, and neglect. Next, start spinning things--water pump, alternator, and crankshaft. To rotate the crankshaft, remove all of the spark plugs. Some mechanics squirt inside the cylinders engine oil or ATF, due to the high detergents, to break up any rust ridges. Everything should rotate smoothly and without wobble. Finally, verify the engine number is what you're looking for. Pay particular attention to sensors, wiring harness, engine mounts, and transmission bell housing. Act in haste, repent at leisure.



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41. GM's New Radio Code Procedure

GM has a new procedure for radio codes. If power is lost and/or the radio is disconnected for any reason, the radio code will be lost and the radio will not work. A dealer must input the code because the codes change on a regular basis. Any dealer can re-install the code, but they have to get the code from GM on the day they do the work.

18. Replacing Front Rotors on Ford 4x4s

This link does a pretty good job of explaining what's typically involved:

Yahoo! Video Detail for 92 Ford Ranger 4X4 Front Brakes / Rotors/ / Bea... (http://video.search.yahoo.com/video/play?ei=UTF-8&fr=yfp-t-701&fr2=tab-web&p=replacing+front+rotors+on+1991+ford+explorer+4x4&vid=413525935166&dt=1256886000&l=592&turl=http%3A%2F%2Fts3.mm.bing.net%2Fvideos%2Fthumb nail.aspx%3Fq%3D413525935166%26id%3Db6241893b24cb8 78b46d7e5e084c3083%26bid%3DfD%252fgpZJwSaknKQ%26bn %3DThumb%26url%3Dhttp%253a%252f%252fwww.youtube.co m%252fwatch%253fv%253dZxhW6K7eI4c&rurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fv%2FZxhW6K7eI4 c%26autoplay%3D1%26fs%3D1%26autoplay%3D1&tit=92+Ford++Ranger++4X4++Front++Brakes+%2F++Rotor s%2F+%2F++Bea...&sigr=11v8jukt5&newfp=1)

It's a fun, easy job. Remove the master cylinder reservoir cap, prior to trying to spread the brake pads. Clean the old bearings with kerosene or Stoddard Solvent. Afterwards, it's fine to blow the old bearings out with compressed air--just don't spin the bearing. I would repack the wheel bearings with full synthetic wheel bearing grease (e.g. Mobil 1, Valvoline SynPower, or Amsoil GLC). This will provide better protection and gas mileage (less friction), which is important on 4x4s. The job goes easier if you use a pair of Lisle LIS44900, MAC P22A, or Craftsman P4735 Lock Ring Pliers to remove the C-clip. Get the torque specs for your truck. Install new pads, grease the caliper pins with silicone grease, and bleed the complete brake system. Valvoline brake fluid meets Ford's HBH requirements for trucks.



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Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement, 2000 Duratec

Location: Just to the rear of the crankshaft pulley damper, covered by a bracket.

. Disconnect negative battery cable.

. Place front of vehicle on jack stands.

. Remove right front wheel.

. Remove fender liner (front half only).

. Remove alternator splash shield (two 5.5mm screws).

. Remove bottom alternator bolt (13mm) and shield.

. Remove bracket covering CKP Sensor, by removing three 13mm side bolts, loosening both 10mm bottom nuts, and sliding the bracket out.

. Remove serpentine belt.

. Remove top front alternator bolt (18mm) and rotate alternator clockwise enough to remove CKP Sensor.

. Remove and replace CKP Sensor (8mm).

Honda Civic Transmission Weight

For those of you looking to replace the clutch in your Civic, you may want to know how much the transmission weighs. This information is not available even from North American Honda. My 1993 Civic DX manual transmission weighs 70 pounds. How do I know? I put it on a scale and weighed it.

Honda Radio/Navigation Code

https://radio-navicode.honda.com/

Replacing Starter Motor, 2000 Ford Taurus Duratec

Trick: Remove battery, battery tray, and top radiator hose from the "Y", after partially draining the radiator. Then, the starter motor can be removed and installed from above. You won't be able to remove and install the starter motor from below the car.

Replacing Output Speed Sensor (OSS), 2000 Ford Taurus with Duratec Engine

The OSS is located under a steel cover on top of the transmission, directly below the rear center coil. With a LED flashlight, you can just see it from the left-side of the vehicle. It looks simple, but it is extremely difficult to get to. Removal and replacement is done totally by feel.

Remove alternator:

1. Disconnect negative battery cable (8mm).

2. Remove serpentine belt.

3. Remove both top alternator mounting bolts (18mm). On the rear stud, first remove the power steering bracket nut (13mm).

4. Raise car, place jack stands under rocker panels, and remove right-front wheel.

5. Trick #1: Remove right-front fender liner.

6. Remove alternator splash shield (two 5.5mm screws).

7. Unfasten outer tie-rod end from steering knuckle (18mm). Use a bungee cord to lift the outer tie-rod end out of the way.

8. Remove brake line bracket from fender (10mm).

9. Unfasten sway bar end link from strut (18mm). Use an 8mm 1/4-inch drive socket to keep the stud from rotating.

10. Trick #2: Remove air dam for access to front sub-frame bolt. Place jack under sub-frame and remove rear sub-frame bolt (18mm). Replace bolt and screw it in three turns. Do the same to the front sub-frame bolt (18mm).

11. Lower sub-frame as far as the bolts will allow the engine to drop. Park the jack under the sub-frame, to take the load slightly off the sub-frame bolts.

12. Remove lower alternator bolt (13mm).

13. Trick #3: Remove top cowling, as if you were going to replace the cabin filter. Then, remove the three 5.5mm (7/32 inch) screws securing the lower cowling and lift it out. This will improve access and allow you to position the alternator, in order to remove the connectors.

14. Remove mega fuse wire connector from alternator (10mm), clean connection with abrasive cloth (or steel wool), and apply dielectric grease.

15. Remove plug from alternator. Use two long screwdrivers, going in from the top. One to slightly pry open the clasp, the other to pry the connector off.

16. Remove alternator.

17. Install new alternator, tightening mounting bolts 15 to 22 lb.-ft. and button things up, when it's time. Raise sub-frame with jack, then tighten both bolts 66 lb.-ft.

Remove and Install OSS:

1. Reach way it to feel the location of the steel cover.

2. Remove 8mm mounting bolt and cover, using a ¼-inch drive ratchet wrench and an 8mm deep socket.

3. Remove sensor, by rotating it back and forth several times. It can really be frozen on there, so try spraying it with WD-40. Using a pocket screwdriver, get under the hold down bracket and pry the sensor out. This will be very trying.

4. Remove the sensor's connector from the transmission fill tube. Pry the wire off the pin on top of the transmission.

5. Attach new OSS to the connector on the transmission fill tube. Coat the sensor's O-ring with transmission fluid and route it into position. Insert the OSS into the transmission, and, using the 8mm deep socket and a ¼-inch drive thumbwheel ratchet, attach the mounting bolt. I attached the mounting bolt first to the socket with tape. Cut a small slit in boxing tape, insert bolt, and wrap tape around the socket. Finish tightening the mounting bolt with a 1/4-inch drive regular ratchet.

6. Attach wire hold-down to pin on top of the transmission. I used a 2-foot extension bar, 14mm deep socket, and hammer.

Due to lack of access, this seemingly simple job became one of the most difficult tasks I've ever done. It would help if you had small monkey hands. Through abrasion, I tore my right forearm up. Make sure you have had a recent tetanus shot. If I were to do this job again, I would take a 3" cutoff wheel and trim the pinch weld to increase the size of the hole.