I got a 1990 honda civic hatchback and it broke down a while ago I think I need to change the distributo cause it cranks but does not turn over and also I checked the trouble code and it gave me a code 10

Code 10 = Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor.

Perform tests, in Sections 1 and 2, below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563.html

Wow that's a lot of work well I kind of skimed through it and what caught my attention was the no spark test I tried that before this post and I have no spark the car did crank over but was not drivable due to what I think is a vacuum leak I had some wires resolderd on the distributor and It stopped cranking over should I replace the distributor and look for a vacuum leak

Does the CEL come on and go off after two seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), and can you hear the fuel pump run during this interval? If it does, the problem is with the distributor.

The cel bulb was taking out but before it was it was taken out it was on and I am getting fuel so the pump is running also I had to fix the main relay because when you turn the ignition key the ticking would constantly tick so I fix it and now it ticks when its suppose to like when you turn the key

It would be best if you could replace the CEL bulb; otherwise, perform the K-Test on the ECM:

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

If it passes the K-Test, and since the fuel pump runs, the problem should reside with the distributor. Make sure, however, that all under hood and under dash fuses are good by testing them with a test light or multimeter. After that, consider getting a replacement distributor (genuine Honda) from your local salvage yard (around $55). Here's how to replace the distributor:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-4.html#post288473


An alternative is to replace the igniter and coil in your existing distributor housing, if you're confident the internal sensors (CKP, TDC, and CYP) are fine. Here's how to replace the ICM and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-4.html#post265896

Ill replace the cel bulb I opened up the distributor and the tdc sensor was bad so I cut it out and replaced it and closed the air gap and put a different igniter on the but it wouldn't crAnk over but then I put the old one in with the new tdC sensore and it sounded like it was attempting to crank over but it didn't. Is there a way you can send me a diagram of the map sensor where I'm suppose to connect them and also if I don't have a multimeter can I just use a test light?

I have never seen anyone successfully repair an internal sensor on a Honda distributor. The only thing that will work, in my opinion, is replacing the distributor housing. Remanufacturers can't even do it right. Look at all of the problems I have on this site with new aftermarket and remanufactured distributors for Hondas. The problem is always with the internal sensors.

The MAP Sensor should be on the firewall, just to the right of the fuel filter. You need at least an inexpensive multimeter--a test light will not do. Turn the ignition switch to on, remove the MAP Sensor connector, attach the red probe to the right female socket, and attach the black probe to ground. If the ECM is any good, the voltage should be around 5 volts. I don't have any diagrams.

I got another cel bulb and a multimeter today but I'm not too fimiliar with a multimeter do u think u can guide me as to were does the knob on the multimeter need to face

Set the dial to DCV (Direct Current Volts).

I put in the cel bulb and when I turn the key to the on position the bulb stays on but the multimeter has 5 different positions on the dcv reader it has a 200m,2000m,20,200,and 1000 witch one do I put it on and witch plug do I diconect the one with three wires or the one with two and witch wires do I put the positive and the ground on?

The cel bulb stays on and where exactly on the dcv do I put it on there's a 2000m 200m 20 200 2000 and 1000

Set it to 20 DCV and then test a standard 1.5 volt dry cell battery. That will tell you if you have selected the right scale or not.

Yes, disconnect the 3-wire connector to the MAP Sensor. Turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). As you look at the open end of the connector, connect the red test lead to the female socket on the right. Connect the black lead to any good ground.

Since the CEL stay on, your Civic will not spark and the fuel pump will not run. Therefore, all efforts should be directed to correcting the problem that prevents the CEL from going out.

The problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) 15 amp fuse, in the under dash fuse box; ECM (perform the K-Test); main relay; or the ignition switch. Perform tests in that order. Normally, the problem is with the fuse or ECM.

Is it posible that my cel is staying on for something else that would not be fatal to the car cause when it was running the cel would stay on from what I remember. And on my multimeter I have to connect the two cables to the multimeter and I have never had to do that cause the multimeter. Had before was already done witch one of the three spots do it put it on

On a 1990 Civic it might not be fatal. For 1992 and on, it is fatal. Still, you want to perform the K-Test on the ECM. Yes, you have two test leads going to every multimeter--Red (Positive) and Black (Negative). I don't know how to explain any further on how to run the K-Test. Sorry.

I checked the map sensor and it came out to 5 volts so it was good abd I checked the fuse for the alt. And then went on to the test for the relat and the 4 and 8 terminal was good but then tested the 5 and 7 and it as bad it doesn't click but I'm confused I have three of those relays in total (all used) and none of them will click from terminal 5 to 7

I'm not sure what relay test you are conducting. Did all under hood and under dash fuses test OK? I'm glad your car passed the K-Test. It may be that the CEL stays on because of the Code 10.

If all fuses are fine, and since it passed the K-Test, the problem is likely with the distributor. If you can install a good distributor, it will probably start. Here's how to do it:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-4.html#post288473

All the fuses should read 12.50 around there right

The important thing is that both test points on each fuse allow current to flow. Don't get hung up on the exact voltage reading. That's why a simple test light is good enough to test fuses.

Ok well I just tested all of them and they were all good but I also noticed a small problem the speedometer does not light up

When dash lights don't work, it's often a tip off that there's a problem with the ignition switch. Power flows from the positive battery terminal to the under hood fuse box, to the ignition switch, to the under dash fuse box, to (in this case) the dash lights.

You may want to check/replace the ignition switch for wear, pitting or melting:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-2.html#post224652

This is also one of the four reasons Check Engine Lights stay on, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II).

Ok but my biggest question is would the car run if I switch the distributor

I think there is a good chance that it will. I wanted you to easily rule out other possibilities first; e.g. fuses, ECM, and ignition switch. These tests don't cost anything, in many cases.

I'm sorry I think I might have missed the ignition test how do u poerform that one just to make sure

Here's the link to check/replace the ignition switch:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-2.html#post224652

Well the car cranks so can I rule that out?

You probably can, if you can hear the fuel pump run for two seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)?

Here's something else I would try. Either remove the 7.5A Backup Fuse in the under hood fuse box or the negative battery cable for 10 seconds. This will reset the ECM. Afterwards, turn the ignition switch to ON and see if the CEL now goes out.

It still didn't go out but I'm assuming that its cause of the code ten(ait) but I have one more question when the car did crank it would studer could it be from the tdc sensor not making spark with the distributor shaft or would it be a vacumm leak because whe I last drove the car before it breaking down it had no vacumm leak

I think the problem is that the distributor's internal sensors are bad. Until you install another distributor housing, hopefully a genuine Honda, I don't think the engine will start.

What do you mean a genuin honda distrubutor do you mean a stock honda distributor?

Yes, the distributor housing needs to be made by Honda, not AutoZone, O'Reilly Auto Parts, or anybody else. Some people get a complete genuine Honda distributor for around $55 at salvage. The just have to ensure they are getting the right part no. for their car. Try to get one, with low mileage, that was involved in an accident.

How would I find out what part number is mine

Look on your current distributor housing or call your local Honda dealer for the part no. for your year Civic and engine.

Ok well I'm going to pick up the distributor this Thursday so Thursday I will let u know how it turns out

Do u have a diagram or something to show me how the shifter is mounted to the links cause I made a custom shifter and put it back together wrong cause the shifter is very hard and won't go into gear

Sorry, I don't.

Could I put a distributor from a 91 honda civic sedean on my car?

I don't know for sure. It depends on the engine. Since they are the same technology, there's a good chance it will work if the engine is the same. Get the part no. off the new distributor and call your local Honda parts dept.

Ok and what do I let them know

Ask them if a distributor, with that part number, will work in your 1990 Honda Civic, which has such and such an engine. Your engine no. is on the block, just to the left of the exhaust manifold.

Well I found the number on mine and the engine type and matched it with the 91 civic and they were the same but I switched them out the car still didn't turn on but now I look for the fuel pump running and I can't hear it. But when I open the fuel line it has fuel was is that about?

It's good that your have replaced the distributor. Now, we are back to having to probably figure out why the CEL stays on. It's probably not related to the Code 10 situation; instead, it may be related to fuses, main relay, or ignition switch.

Did every fuse test OK with the multimeter? Be exceptionally thorough.

Turning the ignition switch to ON (Position II), not START, does the CEL come on and then go off after 2 seconds? If not, the problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) 15 amp fuse, in the under dash fuse/relay box; ECM (perform the K-Test); main relay; or the ignition switch. Perform tests in that order.

Based on the previous K-Test, the ECM should be fine.

Yes they all read 12.50 like the battery

In all likelihood, then, the problem is with the main relay or ignition switch.

Well the book says to test the continuity between 8 and 4 if it don't click replace the relay and it did then it said check the continuity between 5 and 7 if there's no continuity then replace the relay and there wasn't but what would that have to do with it not turning on I mean I don't hear the fuel pump run but I open the fuel line and it has fuel

That test is the main relay test when u unplug the relay iyt has numbers were the relay connects to the connector and u connect a ground and a positive to hear a click

The main relay controls the fuel pump. You can have fuel in the fuel line but it needs to be 43 to 47 psi--the fuel rail must be fully pressurized for the car to start.

How many pin relay do you have? Do you hear/feel the main relay "click" when you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II)?

Be sure to clean the main ECM ground, located on the thermostat housing. It may be a 3-wire brass connector--remove and clean.

If that doesn't work, perform the tests in the link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-7.html#post1245523

It's a seven pin relay and it does click when I turn the key and I don't have a fuel rail its fuel injected but a dpfi (dual point fual injected)

OK. Perform the tests in the link I just gave you. You should be very close to getting it to run--don't give up.

When you jump main relay connector Terminals 5 and 7, let me know if the fuel pump runs.

Ok I will performe those test early in the morning I really appreciate all your help and sticking with me on this thank you

You're welcome. Keep me posted.

So I read the entire link you gave me last night and went out to the car today and before I messed with the main relay I turned the key and heard the fuel pump I guesse cause it was a little noisy yesterday I couldn't hear it and then I went on to check to see if I had some type of spark and I took the plugs out and had someone crank the car and I finally got spark but not a good enough spark from my opinion and aa I went from the far right to the far left plug the sprak seemed weaker. That's as far as I could go today because its raining and kind of snowing today but could that mean the igniter is weak?

More than likely it's a weak coil. Igniters are the equivalent of "electronic points" in older distributors. Under direction of the ECM they open and close the primary circuit in the coil. Since the coil is a "step-up" transformer, it induces much greater voltage in the secondary circuit of the coil, which allows the spark plugs to fire.

And that's why I'm not getting much spark also it explains itself cause I have changed everythin in the distributor even the distributor but the coil from the new one had been taken out so I put the old one in I haven't changed that at all

We should be getting very close. Many salvage yards sell the coils separately. I recommend replacing coils every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

Well I'm very over both of those haha I called autozone for a new one and its 60 bucks but I'm going to call a salvage yard is there a certain part number on those coils or can I just get it from whatever honda distributor from the same year?

Look at your present coil. See if you can pull a number off it.

Does your distributor have an internal or external coil? I presume external.

It's a internal coil

What is the part no. for your distributor?

It's a (Td01u)

I see it now. The coil is #TC-07A.

Ok so I get a tc-o7a coil right

Yes. You'll probably see that number somewhere on your current coil. It's a good idea to take it with you for comparison.

I believe you have a TEC (Tokyo Electric Company) distributor (i.e. TD-01U) and a TEC coil (i.e. TC-07A).

T=TEC
D=Distributor
C=Coil

Ok well ill go to the salvage yard tomorrow and ill let u know how it goes thank u

OK

I went to autozone to get my coil tested and while I was at it I decided to check my icm and I have two icm got them both tested and both failed the test but also they told me that they stopped testing coils so I called orielly's and they also stopped testing coils. But they told me to use a voltmeter and test the resistance but how do I do that? Without it being pluged in or does it need to even be pluged in?

Coil Test:

Set multimeter to ohms.

1. Remove the two screws to disconnect the BLK/YEL and WHT/BLU wires from terminals A (+) and B (-), respectively.

2. Measure resistance (Ω ohms) between the terminals. Replace coil if the resistance is not with specifications. Primary Winding Resistance (between A and B terminals) should be 0.6 to 0.8 ohms. Secondary Winding Resistance (between A and secondary winding terminals) should be 12.8 to 19.2 k-ohms.

Bench test coils is really not reliable, since it does not simulate the heat in actual operation.

So what do you recomemnd other then the bench test

If you can afford it, replace both the ICM and coil every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

If AutoZone's test says the ICM is bad, it is bad. However, if it says the ICM is fine, it may or may not work in practice. This is the same thing with testing coils. The tests just are not definitive.

Ok well I'm going to try and buy both of them ill let u know what happense because if I get them from the salvage yard I'm not so sure it would work seeing as all those cars are well over 120,000 miles and 10 years over 10 years

I don't like spending people's money for them but ICMs and coils are problematic components on Hondas.

Be sure to apply the heat transfer compound to the back of any new ICM or it won't last long.

Yeah I understand plus I feel too close to just give up and I have spent too much money to turn back now cause before I started to talk to you I had to replace broken parts in the distributor so I feel that that's the problem but either way will see if it is I hope so

I will is that like a grease or something

It's a very specialized compound--it's not ordinary silicone grease. Don't use anything else. They should give you a small amount with your new ICM.

Failure to apply silicone heat transfer compound will cause the ICM to quickly fail. Arctic Silver 5 is recommended by an AMHD member, which is available at Radio Shack.

If the ICM and the heat sink are simply placed together, the small air gaps (insulator) that naturally exist between them will inhibit heat transfer. By filling these gaps, the compound allows a direct path through which heat can travel. Failure to apply this grease is one reason why some Hondas suddenly die. Attention to detail makes a big difference with modern-day electronics.

Ok ill be sure to put it on there

Did you test the ICM in the new distributor from salvage?

Yeah it tested bad when it was cold and when it warmed up and the old one I had tested good when cold bad when warm so I'm thinking when the car did turn on at that one point and then cut of it was cause of that icm that when it got warm it quit working

Yep. That's why so many cars die when they warm up--ICMs and coils breakdown under load (heat). If the sensors in the new distributor are fine, your Honda should start with a new ICM and coil.

Yeah I found another icm I had laying aroun but it's a #mc-8541 and the one from my car is a mc-8132 will it work on my car even if there different numbers

I don't really know. I checked it out and it looks like it should work.

O well it tested bad also so that's not going to work I'm about to test the coil and ill let u know what it comes out to

OK

Were on ohms do I put the knob at 2000k 200k 20k 2000 200

Primary Winding: Set multimeter to 200 ohms

Resistance [between (+) and (-) terminals] should be 0.6 to 0.8 ohms.


Secondary Winding: Set multimeter 20K ohms

Resistance (between A (+) and secondary winding terminals) should be 12.8 to 19.2 k-ohms.

Ok so basically I connect the red lead and black lead to the positive and negative from the coil and read it from 200 ohms then 20k and that's my primary and secondary tests?

No. Connect Red to A and Black to B.

Then Connect Red to A and Black to where the spark plug wire attaches.

There's no label that says a or b its just a plus or a negative and when you say for the secondary connect the black to where the spark plugs connect are you talking about the cap

Primary Winding: Set multimeter to 200 ohms

Resistance [between (+) and (-) terminals] should be 0.6 to 0.8 ohms.


Secondary Winding: Set multimeter 20K ohms

Resistance [between (+) and secondary winding terminal] should be 12.8 to 19.2 k-ohms.

Secondary winding terminal is the terminal that the high voltage comes out of.

There's no label that says a or b its just a plus or a negative and when you say for the secondary connect the black to where the spark plugs connect are you talking about the cap

Re-read my last response.

Well the primary came out to b 1.1 ohms but I'm sorry I still didn't understand the secondary winding is there a way u can explain it more like where does the main voltage come from is it from the coil or somewhere else

I'm looking at a picture of your coil. Attach one lead to + and the other to the inside of the big hole (opening), which is where the high voltage comes out of.

Ok well the second winding is reading 12.14 but the first as I keep reading it it kind of jumps up to 1.4

Primary resistance is too high and it will only get higher with heat. If you are outside of specs, when cold, I think you should replace the part.

The frustrating part of bench testing ICMs and coils is when they test fine but they breakdown under load, which often can't be tested for. I don't trust old ICMs and coils. They are two of the biggest problems we have on this site for Hondas. Next, is bad distributor housings. Basically, then, your original distributor was a mess.

So my coil does not need to be replaced

No, it likely needs to be replaced.

To me, your original distributor housing, ICM, and coil were all bad.

Wow OK well do u still recommend me just getting a coil and icm or a full distributor? And if a full distributor where can I get one for a cheap price

Didn't you just get a used distributor housing from salvage? A number of people have purchased a complete distributor housing, ICM, and coil for their Honda for around $55 from salvage. One guy bought one that only had 30,000 miles on it.

Well I got it from a guy from craigslist that was parting out a 91 sedan he said it works but when I looked inside it was missing the coil and it had oil inside and on the outside of the housing and he also lied and told me the car only had 164,000 miles on it witch is less then mine but when I got there that's the first thing I checked and it had 205,000 miles witch is more but I bought it cause he said it was good and it was the same engine and distributor

Are they from the same year car?

I would call around to several salvage yards and get the best deal you can on a complete distributor, including ICM and coil. Again, try to get one from a lower mileage 1990 Civic--ensure part number check out.

Well I'm returning that distributor to get my money back and get one worth my money will rthe salvage yard be able to tell me if they have a td-o1u in there yard?

I have been looking for a distributor all day and can't find one locally so I got on the internet and still could not find one until I ran across a bosch distributor for less then 150 brand new is that worth my money or not keeping in mind that nobody has a distributor for my car o and I think my distributor is a 2pin-5pin am I correct

I'm skeptical of all aftermarket distributors for Hondas, but it's your car and go with your gut. You do want a lifetime warranty, however. Some salvage yards are hooked up to a national network where they can scour the market for used parts. Ask them about that capability or call Advance Auto Parts. They claim they can do it.

They don't pick up the phone but there's a guy selling a TD-18U I'm assuming that would not fit right

Correct.

I been looking for distributors all day and cannot find one for my car the only one I have found at a good price being new and all is that bosch

What kind of warranty? Is the outfit local, so you can return it if it does not work?

It doesn't show anything about warranty and no its not local,I think I'm going to have one of my uncles from boston look it up over there and my other uncle from puerto rico look it up over there cause in puerto rico it's a good chance they will have it there's a lot of these cars over there but would it be dangerous to ship them

Check RockAuto.com.

It's the same thing same brand and everything just 4 dollars cheaper

No big deal then.

Nope