93 honda civic, will start with no problem. When it warms up, not over heat, it will die and not restart until it is cold again. Will crank but not turn over. Replaced the ignition control module, now it will not start at all.

I would also replace the coil--it's likely breaking down under load (heat). Make sure you applied heat transfer compound to the back of the new Ignition Control Module.

Replaced the coil, still won't start. Did put compound to the back of the ICM. What do I do next?

I would buy a genuine Honda distributor housing and install your new ICM and coil in it. It sounds like the internal distributor sensors (CKP, CYP, or TDC) have failed--they are not serviceable.

Does the Check Engine Light come on and go off after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)?

The check engine light stays on.

In that case, the problem is not with the distributor. Instead, the problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse, in the under dash fuse box; ECM; main relay; or ignition switch.

. Test all under dash and under hood fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-3.html#post252145

Be very thorough, since it will save a lot of time and money. The ACG(ALT)(S) fuse is near the SRS (right side) fuse section of the under dash fuse box.

. Check for codes:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-6.html#post832012

. Perform the K-Test on the ECM:

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

. Check/replace the main relay, if the problem persists. The main relay is usually suspect during hot weather. The car starts in the morning, but not in the afternoon when the ambient temperature goes up. It is located left of the fuse box, wedged against the left kick panel and above the hood latch. Remove fuse box cover and lower dash panel for access.

. Check the ignition switch for wear, pitting, or melting:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-2.html#post224652

We did get the car diginostics on it. He said it was the ICU, so I called him today and he said is read the ICU or the Ecu. He also said it takes a computer to download info. Is this correct. Or can I just replace it? Can't really trust the guys..

It doesn't require a code reader or computer on your year Civic--only 1996 and later.

If the K-Test confirms that the Engine Control Module (ECM) has failed, here's how to replace it:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-3.html#post235038

These tests are simple enough that you should be able to do them yourself and not rely on someone else. Make sure the new ECM is an exact part number match.

On your K-test, I don't know where the MAP Sensor connector is and where is the ECM ground on the thermostat housing is. I have looked in the repair manual and no luck. Sorry about not being very smart. Can you help me out. Thanks. You have already helped me out so much. I apprecaite it greatly.

The MAP Sensor is just to the right of the fuel filter, along the firewall. Any ground will actually work, so don't worry about the main ECM ground on the thermostat housing.

Ok I did some more research and found the thermostat and sensor, but what wire is the ecm ground?

Just remove and clean the 3-wire brass connector.

Found the sensor and map. What color is the wiring to the ecm ground on the thermostat housing?

Sorry didn't see you answer. Thanks.

There's no need to isolate the ground wire (black)--just clean the brass connector.

We checked the voltage and it read 3.4 is that to low? We are going to try the code reading next.

To me, that indicates the ECM is failing and should be replaced.

We can't find the SCC or the DLC. Nothing is under the passenager side. We found a 3p under the drivers side, it is held on by a scew and has a yellow box thing on it, that you can flip open the top, but from what I might look like, maybe the DLC? Are we on the right track? So we didn't touch it. Could it be on the drivers side? Could you give me more description on it? Thanks

You need to buy a Haynes Manual.

I have bought the chilton manual, is the haynes that much better.

The Haynes will at least help you locate the SCC, which is pretty basic.

We replaced the ECU. IT WORKS!
Thanks so much for your help.

Another successful diagnosis by the K-Test. Good job.