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pur1138
Jan 26, 2010, 06:45 PM
Howdy. How come this stuff always happens in the middle of winter? HAHA!
I have a deep well with a submerged pump. I'm pretty sure the bladder in the storage tank has burst. But I've been adding air when the pressure at the faucets gets low. So today I was checking things out because of low pressure and I can't figure out what's going on . I put a new gauge on the pipe coming from the wellhead near the Square-D control, so that's probably good. Here's the deal. I get much different PSI readings from that gauge than I do from the schraeder fitting on the top of the tank.
For me to get decent pressure at the house, the dial gauge needs to read over 80 or so before it cycles off. But the tank fitting, using 2 different gauges (tire gauge and gauge on an electric tire inflator) only reads 10-20psi.
Also if I try to put the recommended pressure in the tank, the tank empties and starts blowing air before the pump cycles on. Unless the pump is set to turn on at insanely high pressure. The dial gauge works consistently and I believe is reading correctly. I now have it set to turn on at about 43 and off at about 67 but It's unbearably low pressure at the faucets. Watching the gauge when everything's stable shows no leakage.

Shouldn't I see the same pressure at the tank (right there in the pump house)as I see at the well head gauge?

Kevin

mygirlsdad77
Jan 26, 2010, 06:54 PM
Yes, you should have the same pressure at the schrader on the pressure tank as the gauge. But you need to shut the pump off, drain the complete system to zero psi, then set the tank to 2 psi under the cut in setting on the pressure switch. However, I'm wondering if you have a water softener, or filter in the system. Let me know and I will try to help.

pur1138
Jan 26, 2010, 07:18 PM
yes, you should have the same pressure at the schrader on the pressure tank as the gauge. But you need to shut the pump off, drain the complete system to zero psi, then set the tank to 2 psi under the cut in setting on the pressure switch. However, im wondering if you have a water softener, or filter in the system. Let me know and i will try to help.

Wow. Very good. I was afraid my post was getting too long...
Anyway, yes, there is a water softener inline. But I don't know anything about it and it has been non-operational since I moved here 2 years ago.
Guy I bought this place from said he couldn't get it fixed. It's a Rainsoft. About maybe 3 feet high w/a salt container. I've been afraid to mess with it for fear of breaking something. The bypass valve is frozen. Actually we noticed it gurgling as I was working on the pump. First time we ever heard it do that and commented to each other about it.
Another detail. The pressure from the hot water is consistently lower then the cold.
Thanks!

pur1138
Jan 27, 2010, 11:32 AM
WOOHOO! Problem solved.
Took your advice 77 and decided to start from scratch. Turned the pump off at the breaker, closed the valve to the house and drained the system. Lo and behold, the gauge stops at 37psi. Thus taking 37 as my zero, I was able to calculate from there. I was also able with much force to engage the bypass on the filter/conditioner.
So I'm all set.

Thanks again!

mygirlsdad77
Jan 27, 2010, 04:05 PM
Glad you got the problem solved. Sounds like your water softener is plugged, so putting it on bypass was a great thing to do. Does your hot water still have less pressure than the cold? If so, the nipples and or unions on top of the water heater are most likely clogged. If you get a chance, open up the water heater lines directly on top of the water heater, and you will be able to see if they are plugged.

pur1138
Jan 27, 2010, 09:33 PM
The hot and cold seem about the same now. I think it was lower because the top of the water heater is the highest water level in the house.
It does have another little kink though I've never experienced. It's electric and when it's heating it doesn't just go "tink tink". It's more like "POP BAM". Haha. Noisiest one I've ever heard. I might try turning it down just a bit, but I don't think it's excessively high. It doesn't run very long while heating. BTW it's a mobile home one with entry on top-side and outlet on bottom-side.

mygirlsdad77
Jan 28, 2010, 04:25 PM
Sediment buildup in the water heater will cause these noises. Try flushing the tank. Hook hose to the drain of the tank, then simply open the drain and let it run for five minutes or so. Its not a bad idea to do this a couple times a year, or at least yearly.