Trane DX1000? External compressor fan was noisy days ago, yesterday it produced a loud noise, as bearings or bushing grinding. Turn off the circuit breaker outside. The noise was exactly like bad bearings or bushing, it took 2 seconds to stop the noise exactly stopping along with the fan blads. Reprogrammed the electronic thermostat from HeatPump to Convencional, so I would have heat in the house. Remove the fan motor (5KCP39FF), disassembled, it seems some seals are broken, but still running. Lubricate the best I could (18 yrs of operation... ), now it seems to be smooth. Reinstalled exactly as it was, wiring perfect. Black to relay, purple and brown to capacitor, purble to the same side of capacitor that comes the other wire (phase) from the main relay that feeds also the compressor. Red LED blinking on board (no heat requested). Switch on the main external circuit breaker. Measured between the two contacts of the main relay, shows 220VAC, so both phases are present (months ago the external circuit breaker had a bad contact and I got only 117VAC outside, nothing worked, but now it is ok).

Oh man, it is coooold in Florida today, I have a flu, sick like a dog, I can't stand long outside.

Reprogrammed again the electronic thermostat for HeatPump, increase a bit the internal desired temperature to force the external pump and fan to start. The compressor kicked in, I can hear it doing its job, but the fan doesn't turn. There is no voltage between the purple and black wires at the fan (output of the small relay and the wire coming from the second phase from the main relay). Why is that?

I mean, if the compressor kicked in, the fan should turn, right? Or when it is very cold (27F) and it is working reversed, heating the house, the fan would not start? Or delay to start?

Should I turn everything off, including the thermostat, wait 15 minutes and restart everything again? I don't understand air conditioning... there are some "timers" involved that may be tricking me.

Reopen the external unit, removed fan wires, measured resistance with ohmsmeter. From the black wire to purple is around twenty something Ohms, from black to brow, around forty something. Rotor is really free, better than before.

Other thing, Can I leave the electronic thermostat programmed as "conventional", and using only the electric heater with the external turned off for a while? With the non-contact thermometer I can measure around 80F at the ceiling grills exits, while inside home is 69F, when blowing. Using the electric heater, the power consume will be much more than using the external heater pump?

It seems I have a two stage heater in this A/C, it was very difficult to find an electronic thermostat to replace the old mechanical one, two years ago. Last winter we had no problems with the system. As far as I could understand, the "second stage" is the emergency heater, that I think is just more heating resistors in the machine at the garage.

Any hints will be specially welcome...

WL - Orlando FLorida.