Replaced distributor and still no spark turns over not blown but no spark did not check main relay but under hood looked good help

If the CEL comes on and goes off after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then the ECM is fine and the problem is with the distributor. Frequently, the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil are the culprit. On some Hondas, however, the internal distributor sensors (CKP, CYL, or TDC) are bad and the car still will not spark. In this case, replace the distributor housing with a genuine Honda part and install your new aftermarket ICM and coil.

My distributor, cap and rotor button are genuine honda and brand new

Cel light never goes out when cranking, but the oil lamp does so I think I'm getting pressure

. Test all under dash and under hood fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-3.html#post252145

Be very thorough. Particularly, ensure the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse, in the under dash fuse box is good.

. Perform the K-Test on the ECM:

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

I suspect the ECM has failed. Here's how to replace it yourself, if warranted by the K-Test results:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-3.html#post235038