Trying to fix my Wife's 1993 Honda Civic with the 1.5 SOHC engine.

It died on her and would not restart.

I checked and the engine was getting gas but no spark.

I replaced the Distribtor Cap, Rotor, Ignition Control Module, Coil and Spark Plugs.

After some difficulty the car did refire and seemed to run fine.

The next morning when she was warming it up it died again and will not restart.

I put paper clip into connector to get ECU codes and the check engine light just stays on solid.

Is the problem with the ECU or what is the next step to get this resolved?

Thanks!

I also replaced the main relay. The check engine light comes on for two seconds and I hear the relay clicking as it should.

I also just checked with a plug to ground and I have NO spark.

After reading through TXgreasemonkey's troubleshooting page that this is not the distributor but is the ECU. Am I correct in assuming that?

. Perform K-Test on the ECM:

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

. Replace the ECM, based on the K-Test results:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-3.html#post235038

Since the CEL comes on and goes off, and the main relay works, I suspect the distributor housing is bad (failing CKP, TDC, and/or CYL sensors). Only install a Genuine Honda Distributor Housing, where you install your new ICM and coil. Over 50% of new aftermarket distributors for Hondas have not worked at AMHD.

. Perform K-Test on the ECM:

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it’s probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

. Replace the ECM, based on the K-Test results:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-3.html#post235038

Since the CEL comes on and goes off, and the main relay works, I suspect the distributor housing is bad (failing CKP, TDC, and/or CYL sensors). Only install a Genuine Honda Distributor Housing, where you install your new ICM and coil. Over 50% of new aftermarket distributors for Hondas have not worked at AMHD.

Thank you for the response.

I have 5 volts on the yellow wire on the MAP sensor and no voltage on the red and green wires on the MAP.

Does this mean the issue is the distributor or what else could be causing this issue? It seems I've already replaced most of the other culprits.

If the CEL comes on and goes off after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON, I would focus on replacing the distributor housing. Honda distributors are high-wear items and usually last no more than 95,000 miles. The "lubed-for-life" bearings only last so long.

If the CEL comes on and goes off after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON, I would focus on replacing the distributor housing. Honda distributors are high-wear items and usually last no more than 95,000 miles. The "lubed-for-life" bearings only last so long.

It definitely does go off after 2 seconds and I hear the fuel pump pressurize the system. I can also smell gas in the exhaust.

The car had 305,000 miles on the original distributor housing so I guess it's time is up.

Thank you again for the help TXgreasemonkey.

305,000 miles on a Honda distributor housing must be a world record.

Keep us posted.

P.S. Nice job keeping your Civic running so long. What oil and drain interval have you followed?

305,000 miles on a Honda distributor housing must be a world record.

Keep us posted.

P.S. Nice job keeping your Civic running so long. What oil and drain interval have you followed?

I've changed the oil every 3000-3500 miles and followed the rest of the maintenance schedule. I think it will keep running for another 100,000 if I can just get it running again.

You will. I really believe replacing the distributor housing will solve the problem. I've seen this many times. Be sure to get a Genuine Honda part, however.

Have you ever replaced wheel bearings on your Civic?

This link should help:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-4.html#post288473

You will. I really believe replacing the distributor housing will solve the problem. I've seen this many times. Be sure to get a Genuine Honda part, however.

Have you ever replaced wheel bearings on your Civic?

As far as I recollect, I've never replaced the wheel bearings. They are nice and smooth too, no noticeable wobble.

I ordered the distributor housing from my local Honda dealer and should have it by Saturday. Hopefully she'll be back to life after that.

Thanks again for your help TXGreaseMonkey!

Good news - I replaced the distirbutor and the car fired up so quicky I could hardly believe it. 305,000 miles and counting again.

TXGreaseMonkey - I see that the timing setting for D15B7/D15Z1/D16Z6 engines is 16 degrees BTDC. How do I know if I have one of those engines?

It is a 1993 Honda Civic 1.5 MT

VIN is JHMEG8559PS042250

I need to set timing before I release the car back to my wife and want to make sure it is set correctly.

Again, I appreciate all of your help.

Good job. Did you install a new genuine Honda distributor housing and your new ICM and coil?

Start using full-synthetic SAE 5W-30, changing it every 6,000 miles or 6 months, and you should be able to go another 200,000 miles.

Here's how to properly set the ignition timing on your engine:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563.html#post219963

I'm sure your engine is a D15B7, which you can verify by the stamp on your engine, located just below where the top radiator hose attaches to the engine. It's below the air bleed bolt used when changing the coolant.

After reading your advice on sticking with OEM Honda distributor housing I did get one from the Honda dealer. No need to risk it.

Where exactly is the timing pointer on the car? I see a small hash cast into the timing belt cover - is that the pointer?

That's it.

That's it.

Set timing to 16 BTDC and it is running better than it has in a long time.

Thanks for all of your help TXGreaseMonkey!

It has been fun seeing you solve the problem. I love seeing well-maintained cars with high mileage--you've done a great job!

Here's a link that might help your Civic:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-7.html#post1054149

Clean the throttle plate and throttle body, while your are doing it. These easy steps can make a big difference in older Hondas.