my 97 honda accord has some stubbling issues then died on my so I thought it could be the fuel pump and filter changed them both... but same issue it start fine when cold the after warming up for abut 3 min when I rev it a little it dies on my and won't start back up... im thinking it could be the coolant temp sensor or something eletrical... the cap rotor and plugs are about a month old and batt votage is good! Any help will be greatly appricaiated!

Replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-4.html#post265896

Replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-4.html#post265896
Another simtom of the car is that when I changed the cap and plugs the cars tach was bouncing at around 3 grand.. at highway speeds... im looking for used parts now that you recommended before I buy new and it doesn't solve it... im a student at UTI and one of my instructors told me it could be the feul cutoff sololoid maybe even the distributor itself further help is greatly appricated!

I would look into the ignition control module

Thanks TXgreasemonkey your idea fixed it I got a used coil that didn't fit in the mount but tried it anyway and had the same issue so I bought a new ICM and the damn car runs better then when I first got it. Really appriciate your help and knowledge not even my instructors at school new what it was lol maybe I'm waisting my money but oh well! Lol

Thanks for the update. Glad to see you got your car running. Are your teachers automotive instructors?

Lol yeah I go to universal technical institute and they all were thinking it was some kinds of fuel issue but I knew I checked the pressur and it was good and then with your help about the coil and icm I went for the coil first cause my sister in law works for a body shot and had acces to a used one so when that didn't work I checked all data and it said if the ICM is wrking the tach should operate normal and so I knew it had to be the icm and it worked!

Yes, the BLU wire from the ICM goes directly to the tach. Erratic rpm is often a dead giveaway that the ICM is toast.

90%+ of "crank but won't start situations" and poor performance problems are electrical-related, not fuel. I have never seen a bad electrical fuel pump on a modern-day car. Many get replaced, however. Instead, the "fuel problem" usually involves a fuse, relay, ECM, or ignition switch. It's important to have a detailed understanding of how the whole electrical system works.