Hi, have been working on this car off and on for the last few weeks. I was driving and it just lost power put it in neutral and just spit and sputtered and died. Call Toyota service manager, and said it may be a coolant temp. sensor, changed that no luck, also changed fuel pump, it would run for a few seconds and die again. Looked at the old coil pack and could see a split in the resin and where it had been arking, so put in a new pack, fired right up, took it out for about 1 mile and started to smell something electrical, pulled it in the shop and saw smoke coming up out from under the hood, hurried up and popped the hood open, could not see any thing burning, figured it was the new pack, pulled that one out and replaced it with a better one, and now it just turns over no fire, nothing, pulled a plug out to see for sure. Could it possibly be the ignition module that's mounted to the fender? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you kindly.

Test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-3.html#post252145

I heard aftermarket coils for Toyotas can be problematic.

Test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-3.html#post252145

I heard aftermarket coils for Toyotas can be problematic.
Hi, tested all and they seem to be fine, still thinking it may be the ign. Mod.. Thankx abunch.

Scott

See if you have a check engine light with the key 'on'. There might be something overlooked here.
I'll check back.

No check engine lights have ever come on since this has taken place. Also John 3:16 is was of my favorite verses. Thank you and God Bless

When you did the coil, it looks like you should have replaced the condenser in the dist also.
Now that you have been in there and disturbed things, the condenser has shorted. Plastic will be melted on it.
The under the hood fuse compartment will have a fuse marked "AM2" 15A. This one usually pops when the condenser shorts causing no CEL with KOEO.
If it's not, let me know.

Disconnect the negative battery cable, before working on the distributor.

When you did the coil, it looks like you should have replaced the condenser in the dist also.
Now that you have been in there and disturbed things, the condenser has shorted. Plastic will be melted on it.
The under the hood fuse compartment will have a fuse marked "AM2" 15A. This one usually pops when the condenser shorts causing no CEL with KOEO.
If it's not, let me know.

Hi, I must have overlooked this fuse the first time, but mine says 30A and it is blown, where is the condenser by the wa, have not seen any thing melted as of yet. Does the coil have to be removed to see it? Do you think the Ign. Mod. Maybe an issue as well? Thanks guys for all your help. If this works, it will save me from hauling it 35 miles to Des Moines.
Scott

Have you tried replacing that 30A maxifuse (cartridge-type fusible link)? They should be available at WalMart. I'm not sure where the capacitor is located, that kitch428 is referring to.

Have you tried replacing that 30A maxifuse (cartridge-type fusible link)? They should be available at WalMart. I'm not sure where the capacitor is located, that kitch428 is referring to.

Hi, found the condenser and removed it, it smelled burnt, and look a little melted not to bad, put a new 30 a fuse in and connected the battery anfd turned the switch on stll could not heat the fuel pump, turned it over anyway and no fire, and fuse blown again, starting to get a little frustrated.

Hi, found the condenser and removed it, it smelled burnt, and look a little melted not to bad, put a new 30 a fuse in and connected the battery anfd turned the switch on stll could not heat the fuel pump, turned it over anyway and no fire, and fuse blown again, starting to get a little frustrated.

Sorry, the condenser is located in the bottom of the dist. the set screw is on the outside of the dist. housing

Sorry, the condenser is located in the bottom of the dist. the set screw is on the outside of the dist. housing

Also wondering if the ign. Module could be shorting things out?

Next step, I guess, is to locate a new capacitor (likely dealer-only), install another fuse, and try again. Was there any visible damage to the rest of the distributor? If the problem persists, you may need to install a new distributor.

That's a distinct possibility. My experience is that most Ignition Control Modules (and coils) need to be replaced every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. If you plan on keeping the car, I would replace the ICM.

Ok gentlemen, here is where I'm at. I removed the old condenser and put everything back, and still no fire, so I took the cao and rotor back off to check the wires again, and left those off, by the way I think my check engine light is burnt out, I called Toyota and the tech said if do not show a light on when key is in the on posistion the car will not start, but he also said check 7.5a ign. Fuse in the fuse compartment by the drivers left knee to see if there is juice going to it, which there is, by the way I left the key on when working with this fuse, and when I put it in place I heard a snap, thought great blew a fuse somewhere else, heard it snap again and got out to see what it was and it was the coil arcing, so I put it all back together, and sure enough the darn thing fired right up and sounded great, so I called the tech back and told him what took place and if leaving the condenser out would hurt anything, he said what it does is take the extra spark, so as not to damage the coil. Going to take it back apart and get the new condenser tomorrow, will see what takes place then. Thank you guys for your help and will keep you posted as to what happens.

Scott

Didn't the blown ignition fuse show up, when you tested all under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter?

Didn't the blown ignition fuse show up, when you tested all under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter?

The 7.5 was never blown, I did see the check engine light finally, the tech was right , if the light is not on it won't start I missed that one, however if the light is not on and you switch the ign. Switch off and on a few time you could get it to light up and start, so drove it around the block came home and shut it off and it would start right back up again with no fussing with it. This one rally has be baffled.

I thought I explained myself on that one but guess not. OK note to ANY future Toyota owners out there. IF YOU HAVE A NO START, AND WHEN YOU TURN THE KEY ON YOU FIND YOU HAVE NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, (NO, IT'S NOT THE BULB BURNT OUT) YOUR TOYOTA WILL NOT attempt to START UNTIL YOU GET THAT LIGHT TO COME ON.
It all in the ECM protection fuses, or the ECM it'self. You should have replaced that condenser rather than leave it out.
Also. TOYOTA FUEL PUMPS DO NOT PRIME LIKE IN HONDA'S.
THEY RUN IN THE START POSITION AND RUN. Toyota fuel pumps have sustained fuel pressure for start ups.
If you ever want to check the pump to see is it's working on this model, simply jump terminals B+ and FP in the under the hood diagnostic check connector. Turn the key to on, and you should hear it run with a stethoscope touching the fuel rail.

I thought I explained myself on that one but guess not. OK note to ANY future Toyota owners out there. IF YOU HAVE A NO START, AND WHEN YOU TURN THE KEY ON YOU FIND YOU HAVE NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, (NO, IT'S NOT THE BULB BURNT OUT) YOUR TOYOTA WILL NOT attempt to START UNTIL YOU GET THAT LIGHT TO COME ON.
It all in the ECM protection fuses, or the ECM it'self. You should have replaced that condenser rather than leave it out.
Also. TOYOTA FUEL PUMPS DO NOT PRIME LIKE IN HONDA'S.
THEY RUN IN THE START POSITION AND RUN. Toyota fuel pumps have sustained fuel pressure for start ups.
If you ever want to check the pump to see is it's working on this model, simply jump terminals B+ and FP in the under the hood diagnostic check connector. Turn the key to on, and you should hear it run with a stethoscope touching the fuel rail.

My apologies, I did see where you explained that earlier, just a little frustrated with this ordeal. Going to install the new condenser today and hopefully that will make a difference. Thank you all for your patience and will keep you updated as to what occurs. I'm just wondering why I had to turn the ign. Off and on a few times to get the engine light to come on?

Everyone comes on here frustrated with their automotive questions, Scott.
I just wanted to put the word out there for people doing a search with the same problem you have.
What you have is a very common problem in the older models.
At least you're saving big time labor charges that I'd be charging you. :)

Everyone comes on here frustrated with their automotive questions, Scott.
I just wanted to put the word out there for ppl doing a search with the same problem you have.
What you have is a very common problem in the older models.
At least you're saving big time labor charges that I'd be charging you. :)

Well I put the new condenser in, fired it up and this time the check engine light stays on, drove it a half block and it started to act up when pushing on the gas it started to die out, tried feathering the gas and it just died. And now I am back to square one to how it was acting before I even put the new coil pack on.:mad: It is going to Toyota sometime this week and get it resolved once and for all, I feel I have wasted enough time on it, and to avoid further anxiety I will let them fix it.

Was the coil you put in an aftermarket? As TX stated earlier, non Toyota parts can be problematic. Right out of the box! They can make you start chasing a ghost.
You can save yourself the bother, because the first thing the dealer will recommend is installing OEM parts.
If you go the data link connector, or 'diagnostic check connector' under the hood, get a paper clip, jump terminals E1 and TE1,(diagram under the cover) turn the key on, you will see the check engine light start flashing. That's a code.
Cycle the key off and back on again and start counting the blinks.
It might be... on... pause... on, on,. pause, something like that. If it's a steady blink, there's no codes. Let me know. I can give the code from here and maybe get a head start before you tow it 35 miles.

With kitch428 to help you, you cannot give up! You are too close.

With kitch428 to help you, you cannot give up! You are too close. :) Thank you for the inspiration, I will check the code out, but really hate to throw more money at it if I'm going down the wrong track. The new pack I had put in was a Borg Warner. Any way will keep you posted. Thanks again guys,

Scott

:) Thank you for the inspiration, I will check the code out, but really hate to throw more money at it if I'm going down the wrong track. The new pack I had put in was a Borg Warner. Any way will keep you posted. Thanks again guys,

Scott

HI, check the engine light like you instructed and getting a continuous blinking, try starting, spins over good for a bit than just stops, then try it again spins and does the same thing, acts like it wants to fire once in a while, almost like its out of time.

I'll bet it's the distributor. Is there a place close by where you can pick your own parts? Aka junkyard?
Sounds like you're saying while holding the key in start position, the cranking rpm just stops all on it's own? If so, that sounds like battery connections, or starter giving up.:confused:
You have no codes, looks like.

I'll bet it's the distributor. Is there a place close by where you can pick your own parts? aka junkyard?
Sounds like you're saying while holding the key in start position, the cranking rpm just stops all on it's own? If so, that sounds like battery connections, or starter giving up.:confused:
You have no codes, looks like.

Went out and checked the junkyard and everything they had was already taken. Still getting the intermittant check engine light, battery cables are tight and clean. I bit the bullet and took it to the dealership. Will let you all know what they found out. Again tahnk you very much for your support through all this. From now on anything like this occurs will just take it the right shop.

Please keep us updated.

Please keep us updated.

I sure will. Thanks again.

I sure will. Thanks again.

Got a call from them a few hours ago, and said it was fixed and ready to go. They ended up putting a new dist. in it. Should have done that from the gitgo. Oh well live and learn, and again, thanks abunch for your help

That's right! Live and learn. You can't replace experience for all the tea in China.
Thought that would git-er-dun. Well, should run like a fine oiled machine for a long time to come.
Did they recommend you a timing belt, or have you already done that.
A little maintenance on these cars goes a long way. Hundreds of thousands of miles.

That's right! Live and learn. You can't replace experience for all the tea in China.
Thought that would git-er-dun. Well, should run like a fine oiled machine for a long time to come.
Did they recommend you a timing belt, or have you already done that.
A little maintenance on these cars goes a long way. Hundreds of thousands of miles.

That's going to be next on the agenda, don't pass our on me :D But do you think I shoud try that myself:eek:

Have the dealer replace the timing belt.

Thats going to be next on the agenda, don't pass our on me :D But do you think I shoud try that myself:eek:

Let the pro's do that one. More to it than meets the eye.

Let the pro's do that one. More to it than meets the eye.

Your right, learned some lessons here. So, I went to pick the car up this morning and guess what? It would not start, so they pushed it back in and did some checking and found out it was the EFI relay, glad that happened there. Anyway I could just imagine what would have happened if I would have changed out the dist. and it wouldn't start, TOO THE MOON ALICE, TO THE MOON:p. They also showed me why it wouldn't run after I put the condenser in, I forgot to keep the airgap distance and the blade on the shaft hit hit the sensor and broke both of them, told them that make's me feel like a dolt, but he said don't be to hard on yourself that they have had mechanics do the same thing. Soo all in all about $450.00 total, not counting the money for parts and the time I through at it. So everyone out there who reads this I hope it gives some insight as to what can happen if you don't have the equipment or the total understanding of the compexity of today's cars. Thank you gentleman, may see you on here again.