I have some PEX lines that I'm not to happy with. I ended up with a small leak so I've decided to replace them with copper lines. They seem to be much more reliable.

My Q is : When you go to replace the PEX on the hot water side is there a way to flush the line from the hot water side so I can work on it? I'm wondering if I need to drain the tank before I start working on it?

If I shut the water of on the cold water side of the tank I realize the tank is still full of hot water and the pressure from heating, and that would be enough to cause flow through the lines, so how can I stop water from flowing through the hot side temporarily while I replace the line?

After you shut off the water to the heater open a tub hot water faucet and drain off the pressure, when the pressure is gone turn the tub faucet off. Get a shallow pan that will go under your work and catch any water that is in the line. Now you can work on replacing the hot water line. If you think you will be bothered by the water heating and creating a flow you can always turn the tempature down on the thermostat while you are working.

Hi Beantown:

In addition to the info. Above...

Shut off the cold water into the heater. Then, open the hot water side of all TWO handle faucets and leave them open for now... you can also open the hot side of the single handle faucets but only for a few seconds to drain off the majority of the water in the pipes... then close these.

Then I would suggest that you turn the power OFF at the breaker panel if this is an electric water heater or turn down the thermostat to pilot setting or vacation setting if it is a gas water heater. Now, open the drain at the bottom of the water heater and drain off about 5 gallons or so...

Now, cut into the pex pipe and confirm that water is below the outlet for the hot water... if not, drain some more water off... ;)

To install copper pipe, first solder the female adapter to the copper pipe, let it cool and then install that to the nipple coming out the hot water side. Run at least 18" of copper off the heater and then you can transition back to pex, or join to other copper pipe in basement.

After you are all set with the piping work, turn off all the faucets and then turn the cold water supply on to check for leaks. Then go around and open all faucets to purge air out the faucets.

If any faucets have a reduced flow you will want to remove the AERATORS at each facuet and clean them to restore full flow.

Turn the power back on or reset the temperature at the thermostat to allow the heating of the water to resume.

Let us know if you have questions... O.K.?

MARK

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Step 1 - turn the water off on inflow to the tank.
Step 2 - drain hot water from a hot tap. Ex) basement tub.
Step 3- tun to pilot on HW tank.
Step 4 - drain aprox. 5 gallons from HW heater.
Step 5 - do it.
Step 6 - reverse operation from step 1-3

Do I have it? Just want to make sure before I get started. It's not doing the piping and stuff I'm worried about, it's the tank and hot water flow. If I can stop the water, I can get er' done. :)

Try this:

1) Turn off cold water supply into heater

2) Open hot water side of ALL two handle faucets in the home... not just the bottom ones... water will drip back as air enters... will drive you nuts! Leave ALL these open for now.

3) Open all single handle faucets toward the hot side and let them empty... close these immediately after.

4) Turn thermostat to pilot on heater

5) Drain 5 gallons or so off from drain at the bottom of heater

6) Pipe 'er up.

7) Shut all faucets

8) Open cold water inlet into heater and test all

9) Open all faucets and purge until water flows correctly

10) Turn themostat back to correct setting.

That should do it with few issues... ;)

MARK

Thanks man I think I got it. You've been a great help. :)

Glad to help!

MARK

Hey thanks. I got around to that on Sunday. Everything worked out perfectly.

GO BRUINS :)

Thank you for the update... always appreciated!

MARK

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