We are trying to install the water control for a Glacier Bay tub/shower fixture.
The instruction state to make a 6 in diameter hole for the control template back and it is to be flush with the finished wall. Well, what will keep this from pulling through as it is not secured to anything. We are using PVC pipe. It just doesn't make sense to us. And another dumb question is; how do you cut a perfect 6 in diameter hole. What tool should we use. We have installed other fixtures and done a lot of other remolding. Just don't want to cut this hole until be understand how the shower control will be secured so that is does not pull through the wall. You have a picture on you site that another person sent that shows the same fixture in the 6in hole.

I assume that what you have is a single lever tub and shower valve. The valve is secured to the framing or wooden backing is installed between the studs and the faucet is secured to it. The hold doesn't have to be perfect but it should be reasonably round. The cover plate will overlap the hole
What are the walls, tile? Is this a new installation or are you replacing a previous valve?

It is all new construstion, new tub, new shower surround new plumbing to tub to which we have access. The fixture comes with the manifold copper valves already attached to the back of the black control template plate. Actually there is a picture of it on your site that someone by username, melindaje, sent this sept 16. I guess the plumbing in back will secure it in place. We just want to be sure before we cut the hole. What is the best tool to use to cut a perfect 6 in hole. We have smaller hole cutters but no 6 in. Guess that will be our next NEW tool to add to our collection! Thanks for you quick response.

Could find no post by melindaje. Can you post picture or provide link to post which you refer to. Are you putting up cement board or is tub surround self supporting?

We have smaller hole cutters but no 6 in. Guess that will be our next NEW tool to add to our collection!! .

Yep, that's your best bet for a good six inch hole. Send us a pic of your shower, and a pic of the valve body and faceplate, and we will try to help with ease of install. Lee.

Like Harold says I did my search too no luck, Please post a picture, and we be able to help, Thanks.

John

Big adjustable hole saw:

Hole Pro&#174 - Professional Hole Cutting Tools for Recessed Lights and Electrical Use (http://www.holepro.com/electrical.html)

Hi Shirley,

I think I found the post that you referred to, its by melindaj2.

Just run the piping up along side the stud as shown in melindaj2"s post and clamp to studs. The template should be 3/4" thick. If you are using cement board or drywall behind the shower surround, make the back edge of the template flush with the studs. If you are not using cement board or drywall, make the front edge of the template extend out about 1/4" from the edge of the stud.

To cut the hole in the cement board or drywall, measure from the tub up and from the corner out to the valve stem. Make a small hole about 1 1/2" at this location (just knock a hole in it with a hammer). Remove the template from the valve and put the cement board up with the valve stem through the hole. Put the template on the valve and mark the cut out. Use a drywall or keyhole saw to cut out the opening. Cut the opening a little smaller than marking to be sure that the cover plate will cover the opening.

Use the same approach to mark and cut the tub surround. You can use a saber or jig saw, a sawsall (reciprocating saw),a mini hacksaw or a hacksaw blade, with one end wrapped with tape for a handle, to cut the tub surround. You could even drill a series of holes around the circle then cut between the holes.