Toilet tank has a hairline crack along bottom from the mounting bolt and up right hand side about 4 inches and lets water seep out. What can I apply to the inside of the tank to seal the crack?
If it cannot be repaired, where can I find replacement ?- It is American Standard, Model Number F4049. It has 2 1/4 inch diameter outlet and the mounting bolt holes measure 5 1/4 inches apart, center to center.

I just had the same issue with one of my toilets. We remodeled the downstairs bathroom and when I put the old toilet back in I realized it leaked from the same hairline fracture.

I'm sure you could smear some sort of tub caulk inside the bowl over the crack, but I'd have to guess it will just eventually leak again. My solution was to pull the toilet back out and purchase a new toilet. I was going to get just a replacement tank, but the toilet we got (of similar quality) was only 40 bucks from Home Depot. So I guess I'd recommend to just purchase a new toilet or go to home depot and see if you can get just a new tank if what you have is really special or expensive.

If you get a new toilet also remember to purchase a new wax ring when setting the new toilet on its mounts.

Good suggestions but I have already been to Home Depot and Lowe's plus a few salvage yards. The home owner 'does-not' want to replace the toilet but wants to maintain/retain the 'old-time' look, that is, "that big-ol' tank". Hopefully there is some 'dependable' material on the market I can use to seal the crack.

I guess if they want to keep the old toilet then you either need to find a replacement tank or fix the crack, huh!

I did some reading and it looks like at some point most toilets changed from 3.5gpf to 1.6 along with bolt spacing. If it's that old of a toilet then it is definitely going to be harder to find an old tank. I found a site though that sells them.

http://www.toilettanklids.com/tanks.html

But... They are super expensive and look to be mostly sold out, but you could call.

So back to repairing the tank... I was thinking that maybe just using paint would work. Take the tank off and put a few thick coats of enamel on the inside of the tank. That would surely fill/cover the crack, then when you put it back in get some gasket material to sandwich between the bolts holding it on or really big rubber washers.

Then again if the toilet is that old, I'd just upgrade to the lower flush toilet and be a little nicer to the environment and to save some money on the water bill. But that would require talking whomever is stuck on keeping the old toilet into getting a newer more environmentally friendly toilet :) Good luck.

If this were my call and the customer wanted to save the old tank I would shut the water off to the dank and use a hair dryer to completely dry the tank and inside the crack. I would then take epoxy and caulk the crack letting it dry and then epoxying over it again letting it cure and set up.
I would be very careful in tightening the tank bolts. The tank wants to have a little play,(1/4 to 3/8ths. Inch). Leaving the tank ridged with no play will put a strain on the tank bolts if anyone leans back and crack the china.
Good luck, Tom

Toilet tank has a hairline crack along bottom from the mounting bolt and up right hand side about 4 inches and lets water seep out. What can I apply to the inside of the tank to seal the crack?
If it cannot be repaired, where can I find replacement ?- It is American Standard, Model Number F4049. It has 2 1/4 inch diameter outlet and the mounting bolt holes measure 5 1/4 inches apart, center to center.
That's a mid 60's model number -- I wouldn't hold my breath trying to find a replacement for it.

Keeping a cracked tank that has been repaired is asking for big trouble. Since there is a crack in the tank it has a stress on it and sometime in the future as you flush it and it has room temperature water in it and the water coming in to fill the tank is do in the 40 or 50 degree range you will hear the tank split as the tank expands or contracts with the different water temperatures.. I don't know about your area but where I live you can not get insurance that covers water damage, for a while we could get coverage for above the floor leak damage but no more.

I agree with letmetellu about the concerns with a cracked tank. I seem to recall about 8 years ago a bunch of tanks were cracking wide open and flooding places, there was a recall. Having said that I've also seen tanks like yours repaired with silicone and working fine years later, although you would not catch me doing it.

I think you've lost track of the original question which was, "What can I apply to the inside of the tank to seal the crack?" That question's already been answered.
The next question was, "If it cannot be repaired, where can I find replacement ?" And Growler answered that.
I can understand Letmetellu's concerns but they address a "maybe" situation. This is a hair line crack and the customer wishes to keep the tank. Why he doesn't wish to change the old toilet out for a newer one I don't know. That's what I'd advise, but he don't and that's good enough for me. Cheers, Tom

Thank you All for responding offering help.

Renovating an old house is fun But Does (sometimes) Have its problems.
The owner wants to retain the old nostalgic era so.. guess I need to fix it.
(Just for information)-I contacted [email protected] about using JB Weld (steel)
And they advised there is no known reason why that application would not work, so
This is what I will use. I have used this product for many other repairs and in my opinion is a very good epoxy bonding material for most anything. Thanks again.

Just remember that giving the homeowner what he or she wants is not going to limit your liability if the worst happens.

As a contractor, there are times when you need to put your foot down and explain that no means no.

Just remember to dry the crack off real good with a hair dryer before you caulk . I would be very careful in tightening the tank bolts. The tank wants to have a little play,(1/4 to 3/8ths. Inch). Leaving the tank ridged with no play will put a strain on the tank bolts if anyone leans back and crack the china.(That's what I think happened in the first place.)Good luck, Tom

Cyanoacrylate (CA) glue which is what Super glue is, can be purchased at hobby stores and woodworking stores (Woodcraft) in 2 oz containers along with an accelerator. More economical and gives your more control. Available in 3 viscosities, thin, medium and thick. Will still glue your fingers togeather.

I guess if they want to keep the old toilet then you either need to find a replacement tank or fix the crack, huh!

I did some reading and it looks like at some point most toilets changed from 3.5gpf to 1.6 along with bolt spacing. If its that old of a toilet then it is definately going to be harder to find an old tank. I found a site though that sells them.

Toilet Tanks in Stock: Used, Salvaged Replacements (http://www.toilettanklids.com/tanks.html)

but... They are super expensive and look to be mostly sold out, but you could call.

So back to repairing the tank... I was thinking that maybe just using paint would work. Take the tank off and put a few thick coats of enamel on the inside of the tank. That would surely fill/cover the crack, then when you put it back in get some gasket material to sandwhich between the bolts holding it on or really big rubber washers.

Then again if the toilet is that old, I'd just upgrade to the lower flush toilet and be a little nicer to the environment and to save some money on the water bill. But that would require talking whomever is stuck on keeping the old toilet into getting a newer more environmentally friendly toilet :) Good luck..

Just did a temp repair with MARINE TEX. Wish I had the white, But it's really Grey :).

I had a set of 10 Min tubes just waiting for this problem. Good enough for the temp repair 'till I find a toilet. Sad part is I did a replacement of the ring and bracket/mount of the toilet to floor flange about 10 Months ago. I did not want to ever tough that again. A replacement tank would be dandy. But I guess the water savings of a new tank will be the payback. Most areas have a program that will PAY for the new tank nearly entirely. Check with local plumbers ad's in the yellow pages or with you local water dept!! I simply did not like the options of toilets they had.

If the rack were not visible on the outside, I would just let the MarineTex do it's thing for as long as it lasted. They use this stuff to repair RUSTED engine blocks and cracked transmission housings. The struggle is waiting the appropriate time for the cure. I have no patience!

Sorry could not find the EDIT BUTTON? Tank=Toilet in the replacement part of my message. (it's too early)

Equiptec,
You're responding to a three year old thread with the last post over a year ago. Look in the upper left hand corner of the post to see the date it was posted. However your information was helpful and The Plumbing Page thanks you for it. Regards and welcome to The Plumbing Page. Tom

Equiptec,
You're responding to a three year old thread with the last post over a year ago. look in the upper left hand corner of the post to see the date it was posted. However your information was helpful and The Plumbing Page thanks you for it. Regards and welcome to The Plumbing Page. Tom

That is the best part of these boards. The old questions, and answers are relevant.
I learned it is the Bolts on the bottom that cause the issue (DUH) My fault. From my fix long ago and a lean back etc... Color matching will be a hassle for me as I am colorblind.

I also learned that thew crack goes far lower then I had thought. Your reply was also helpful.
I will join a fgew other boardshere like Computer repair where I can learn and help.

As a lifelog Auto tech. I always got P.O'd when entering the pluming supply and being treated like an alien. Thoes attitudes are the reason The Depot and Lowe's have crushed that business from the ratail sied. And pro like having access on Sunday let alone Saturday!
But the REAL expertise I always found from the guys in line at those stores (plumbing supply) was so valuable. They were smarter than the morons behind the counter who would say 'You need a plumber" Thinking they were protecting their customers. They don't need protection. They are pro's.

Thanks

I learned it is the Bolts on the bottom that cause the issue (DUH) My fault. From my fix long ago and a lean back etc... This is why I always advise leaving a 1/4" of "give" when tighting the tank bolts.

But the REAL expertise I always found from the guys in line at those stores (plumbing supply) was so valuable.
That's because they're working plumbers like us. Counter men may know material and fittings but we do the work.
Feel free to hang around, (we won't treat you like a "alien") and contribute or just pick up a few plumbing tips.
Again, Welcome to the Plumbing Page. Tom

They were smarter than the morons behind the counter who would say 'You need a plumber" Thinking they were protecting their customers. They don't need protection. They are pro's.

Thanks

I've had to grit my teeth more than a few times when listening to the advice given by the 'experts' at the Big Box stores (Lowes, Home Depot etc.. . ).

I have noticed a trend though in this sinking economy: A few of my Peers have taken to stalking customers in the Big Box stores soliciting them for work at rock bottom prices.

It could be that kickbacks are being paid as well -- The department heads at a few of the stores even steer customers to some of these 'Peers'.

Growler!
Welcome back! Haven't seen you for a spell. Hope you're OK and that things are going well for you. Don't be a stranger, your input's always welcome. Regards, Tom

Thanks for all the help. Here is what I just did:

Toilet tank is part of a one piece toilet, and not leaking badly, and the crack was on the back (looks like it got banged) and not in a stress point like on a bolt. Nothing too critical underneath in the basement. And the leak has been here since bath remodeled a year ago with no change.

Drained and dried with hair dryer.

Used a little purple PVC primer to try to see the crack better. Little help.

Put a layer of epoxy with Q-tip.

Cut a few strips of "sheer panel" about half inch wide. (Sheer panel is nylon used in draperies, get lots at 2nd hand stores. Other choices would be nylon window screen, fiber glass, etc. Anything that is strong and won't rot.)

Stuck the sheer panel strips to the epoxy, then more epoxy on top, all with Q-tips.

Done and doner.

Thanks for all the help. Here is what I just did:

Toilet tank is part of a one piece toilet, and not leaking badly, and the crack was on the back (looks like it got banged) and not in a stress point like on a bolt. Nothing too critical underneath in the basement. And the leak has been here since bath remodeled a year ago with no change.

Drained and dried with hair dryer.

Used a little purple PVC primer to try to see the crack better. Little help.

Put a layer of epoxy with Q-tip.

Cut a few strips of "sheer panel" about half inch wide. (Sheer panel is nylon used in draperies, get lots at 2nd hand stores. Other choices would be nylon window screen, fiber glass, etc. Anything that is strong and won't rot.)

Stuck the sheer panel strips to the epoxy, then more epoxy on top, all with Q-tips.

Done and doner.

How has it worked? Has it cracked again?

Here you go !

Score or widen the crack to aid in adhesion and apply hydraulic cement.

Since the tank is a hairline crack on the bottom, repairs will not bother the ascetics and you can avoid buying a whole new unit. I recommend using Heavy Duty Job Site Locktite Epoxy. Get the 8oz version, it's water resistant and comes in a 2 part mixture of resin and hardener. You can remove the tank and it's components in 5 minutes. Then, properly dry everything inside and out. Clean the area you want to repair and apply a line across the cracked area both inside the tank and out. It says it drys in 5 minutes but wait a full 24 hours to cure before you reassemble your tank. Since everything is off, you might as well grab a tank to bowl kit if the toilet is at least 5 years old and replace the rings to prevent future leaks. If you want to buy a new toilet, I recommend your local hardware store or plumbing outlet. Tanks aren't typically sold separately so you're looking at a new complete unit if you go that route.

Hi
I came across your posting today while I was looking for a solution to fix the cracked toilet tank.
I would prefer to fix it rather than changing the whole toilet.
Can you please let me know if the JB weld worked?
I know it has been few years now but would really appreciate your reply!

Marine epoxy is better. Tank must be very dry. Some people also imbed a piece of vinyl pool liner in the epoxy over the crack. May work for a while, may not.

Years ago when I was too poor to afford a toilet replacement, I used JB weld as well, worked like a charm. Was still holding up when I moved several years later. Only problem was the crack was a little more visible, since the JB weld was dark. Don't know if they offer a lighter colored version, or maybe caulk or something over top of it, if that's a problem for the customer.

I have found that most of the cracks in the toilet tank come from faulty installation. Let me explain. One of the more common mistakes in installing a toilet tank is to crank down hard on the tank bolts. If a person leans back while sitting on a toilet the tank has no give and will crack around the tank bolts. The correct way is to allow the tank to rock a quarter of an inch. I do not recommend repairing a cracked tank. However, if you want to try I can only echo Brian's words. May work for a while, may not periods. Good luck, Tom