View Full Version : Toilet Bubbles & Washing Machine Overflows
babyjay0319
Sep 21, 2009, 11:46 AM
Hello, I am a 1st Time Home Owner and Need Some Help / Advice, Any Help / Advice is greatly appreciated. I moved into my house last year in February. I got some help w/ the Housing Partnership so they had some requirements w/ the Home Inspection before I could move forwarad w/ the purchase of my house. The Washing Machine used to Drain onto the ground and they said they had to connect the Washing Machine Pipes / Drain or Whatever to the Septic Tank so the Previous Owner had this done. Also before I moved into my house, the Septic Tank was Pumped & Inspected. A while ago, I started noticing that the water would get real low in the toilet and would bubble when we washed clothes and when we took showers. Also, when we wash clothes water overflows from the hose. Then, stuff started coming up through the drain in the shower when we washed clothes so I got the septic tank pumped and that hasn't happened again but the toilet still bubbles, water still gets low in the toilet and when we wash clothes, water still overflows from the hose. Does anybody have any advice on what I need to do / check? Please help if you can.
ballengerb1
Sep 21, 2009, 12:04 PM
Your sewer system is vented to the outside via a vent stack which usually ends with a 3" or 4" pipe sticking out through the roof. The vent allows air in and out of the drains as water flushes through. Your stack is at least partially clogged. It can be rodded from the roof with a swer rodder long enough to run roof to basement floor and 20' more. Some folks try a short cut by taking a garden hose to the roof and running water down the stack, it can work for some clogs but not all.
babyjay0319
Sep 21, 2009, 12:10 PM
Hello and thank you so much for replying so quickly. I really appreciate it and will try what you said to do.
Who do I call to do what you said to do?
Do you have an idea of how much it would cost?
Again, thank you so much for your quick response.
ballengerb1
Sep 21, 2009, 12:13 PM
Many home owners would rod themselves while others would call a plumber who is willing to climb the roof with a machine. Rent a rodder yourself is around $35 per hour, pay a plumber-priceless. Plumber will likely charge a service call and labor time, anywhere from $150 on up depending on what he finds
babyjay0319
Sep 21, 2009, 12:17 PM
That's funny! I will definitely pay a plumber. When I call around to get quotes from plumbers, what exactly do I say to them so I they'll know what I'm talking about? Please let me know, thanks!
ballengerb1
Sep 21, 2009, 12:21 PM
Tell 3 plumber the same story. You have a ___ story house with a clogged vent stack and need the stack rodded. How much do you charge to come out and do that? A really good plumber will ask you many questions trying to figure out if you know what you are talking about because maybe he will think the problem lays else where as it may be.
babyjay0319
Sep 21, 2009, 12:26 PM
Thank you so much, I will call plumbers, tell them what you said and will let you know what happens. I am new to this so I don't know how to rate your help, please let me know how to rate and I will. Thanks again!
speedball1
Sep 21, 2009, 12:30 PM
Hi Jay,
I really hate to tell a new homeowner this but you have multiple problems.
Does the toilet bubble or gurgle at you? The washer standpipe back up problem can be fixed by adding a fitting(see image) on the stand pipe and making it a closed system. You can accomplish the same thing by duct taping the hose to the standpipe.
But your biggest problem and expense will come on down the line with the failure of the drain field. Let me explain.
The Washing Machine used to Drain onto the ground and they said they had to connect the Washing Machine Pipes / Drain or Whatever to the Septic Tank so the Previous Owner had this done. Also before I moved into my house, the Septic Tank was Pumped & Inspected. A while ago, I started noticing that Garbage disposals and washers are the two mane causes of drain fields clogging up and failing. I think you're beginning to experience that now with the septic tank having to be pumped so often.
In my area when we plumb a house with a septic tank we always route the washer and kitchen drains through a grease trap,(see image) before allowing the liquid to proceed to the septic tank. This is because the lint, fiber and garbage, if they run through the septic tank and out into the drain field, will clog the openings in the drain field pipes and cause the drainfield to shut down. This will not b e noticed until the septic tank fills up and you get backups in the house. Then the tanks pumped out and the whole thing starts over again. It may be too late now but I'd contact the contractor that did the work to ask if you have a grease trap. Relocating a drain field can be a very expensive proposition. Good luck, Tom
babyjay0319
Sep 21, 2009, 01:28 PM
The toilet bubbles... it goes bloop, bloop, bloop... Do I still need to get the vent rodded out if the toilet goes bloop, bloop, bloop and the water gets low?
Thank you for all the information and all the pictures but I don't know what a standpipe is? Who do I call about getting this standpipe thing done?
So you think I should try to contact the person who connected the washing machine to the septic and ask them if I have a grease trap? If I can't find out who did this or get in contact w/ them could I have someone install this grease trap?
I appreciate all your help.
Thanks.
ballengerb1
Sep 21, 2009, 02:24 PM
You won't notice the backup for awhile since they pumped 1000 gallons out of the tank or more. Once the tank fills then it will allow black water (sewage water) to enter the field tile where it both soaks in and evaporates. The low water in the toilet while washer is running still says clogged vent to me. Like Tom says, you may have multiple issues but a vent is one of them. In my area washer drain into a utility sink or right into a drain line with no special grease trap. Codes must vary or installers have their preferred ways/
babyjay0319
Sep 21, 2009, 02:36 PM
I'm going to check out the vent and will let you know what happens. I called 1 plumber, explained to him the situation, told him what you suggested and he said he will rod the main line out and will check the one on the roof too. $96.00 an hour plus $15.00 for the machine. I have to save some money to get this done, then I'll let you know what happens.
Let me ask you... what do you mean when you say - In my area washer drain into a utility sink or right into a drain line with no special grease trap.
I have to leave now but will log in tomorrow morning.
Thanks.
ballengerb1
Sep 21, 2009, 03:03 PM
Tom. My good friend and licensed plumber, pointed out that washer, in his area, go through a grease trap before the septic system. I was pointing out that this requirement was a regional thing and not required everywhere. We drain directly into the same drain for sinks, tubs shower and washers.
speedball1
Sep 21, 2009, 03:25 PM
I'm amazed that a grease trap isn't mandated by all codes. A septic tank will not process or biodegrade lint or fiber and kitchen grease and garbage speak for themselves. Your drainfielf shows signs of failing as we speak. If the septic tank has to be pumped frequently it night pay you to have your drainfield checked. I wish you well and good luck in the future. Yom
babyjay0319
Sep 22, 2009, 06:42 AM
The first thing I should do is get the main line & the one on the roof rodded out, right?
Then, I should look into getting the drainfield checked, right? Who do I call to get this checked, a plumber or a septic tank company?
In reference to that grease trap... is there any way to tell if I have one now? If not, could I get one added?
Do you think I should make the washer empty onto the ground like it was before I moved in?
speedball1
Sep 22, 2009, 07:12 AM
The first thing I should do is get the main line & the one on the roof rodded out, right? The first thing I would do is check the septic to see if the level has risen above the outlet tee. If it has then pump the tank. If it hasn't then snake the sewer line.
Then, I should look into getting the drainfield checked, right? Who do I call to get this checked, a plumber or a septic tank company? If the septic tank needs to be pumped on a frequent basis I would call in a septic system company to check the drainfield.
In reference to that grease trap... is there any way to tell if I have one now? If not, could I get one added? My bet is that you don't have one installed. Check with the previous owner. One can always be added if you wish.
Do you think I should make the washer empty onto the ground like it was before I moved in? No! To stay within the law gray water must go into the septic tank. Good luck, Tom
babyjay0319
Sep 22, 2009, 07:40 AM
I just had the tank pumped like a month ago so I hope it doesn't have to be pumped again...
Do I call a septic company or plumber to check to see if the level has risen?
When you say to snake the sewer line, is that the same thing as getting it rodded out?
If so, do I say sewer line or main line or is it the same thing?
Do I get the one on the roof done too?
Does a plumber snake the sewer line or a septic company?
I would check w/ the previous owner regarding the grease trap but they are not helpful at all. They told me if I had any questions to give them a call, and when I had a question when I first moved in, they rushed me off the phone and never called me back.
Who could install the grease trap... a plumber?
What do you think will make the water stop coming out of the hose and onto the floor when I wash clothes? Could a plumber fix that?
Thank you for your advice.
Janet
ballengerb1
Sep 22, 2009, 07:59 AM
A plumber could do everything. A sewer contractor can too and he mat also be a plumber by trade. Either guy can dig down and open the tank lid, don't try it yourself. They can then see if thetank became over filled causing a backup or is the backup up stream closer to the house. The pipe from the house to the tank rarely clogs. The pipe from the tank to the distribution box before the field can clog more frequently and usually can't be rodded, just replaced.
babyjay0319
Sep 22, 2009, 08:24 AM
If the drainfield is clogged, is that something that's a minor fix or a major fix?
To make the water stop coming out of the hose and onto the floor when I wash clothes, is that a minor fix or a major fix?
Is rodding the line out the same as snaking the sewer line out?
How about the grease trap, is that a simple fix?
Thanks,
Janet
ballengerb1
Sep 22, 2009, 08:46 AM
A clogged drain field could run $6000 so lets start praying something else is at fault. The water comes out onto the floor because your drain line can't drain or can't drain fast enough. That could be a clogged drain line or, worst case, the tank and field are full, very bad. I think we are at the point when you need to call in a plumber. If you never did any rodding of a stack or drain today may not be the day to start. Hire a pro and watch how he does it.
babyjay0319
Sep 22, 2009, 11:00 AM
I am praying that it will be OK. How bad is it when it's clogged drain line as far as expense? Do they just unclog it? How do you prevent it from being clogged again? I know I'm asking a lot of questions but I'm just trying to get a little familiar w/ everything. Once I get the plumber to come out to my house, do I explain to them what's going on or just tell them to open the tank, check it, and do all the other things? Please let me know.
Thanks,
Janet
speedball1
Sep 22, 2009, 11:09 AM
You just had your tank pumped an d everything's seems to be working, correct?
Wait until there's a back up and then check the tank. In my area plumbers, septic tank guys and pump guys are separate trades. Of course we sometimes overlap but if I were going to install a septic tank or move a drainfield I'd want a specialist in the trade. Your area might have a different tale on it. Regards, tom
babyjay0319
Sep 22, 2009, 11:51 AM
Yes, I just had my tank pumped like a month ago because nasty stuff started coming up through the bathtub when we washed clothes.
Nasty stuff hasn't come back up through the bathtub since we had it pumped but I still have the issue w/ the bubbling toilet & low water in the toilet when we wash clothes and the water overflows out of that hose when we do laundry too. So, you don't think I should have someone open the tank and check it the level like you said? Should I just have someone come out, explain to them what the problem is or should I tell them what I want done? I would love to have these issues resolved but I don't know what to have done... Please help.
speedball1
Sep 22, 2009, 12:18 PM
I advised you how to address the washer backup problem on page one eight posts down.
Snake from the bathroom roof vent fro the low water in the bowl. As long as your septic system's working normally you can check nothing. Wait till it gives you a problem then call in outside help to check it out. Tom
babyjay0319
Sep 22, 2009, 12:36 PM
Ok, I gotcha... sorry there is so much information that is all so new to me...
I looked on page 1, 8 posts down and you said the washer standpipe back up problem can be fixed by adding a fitting(see image) on the stand pipe and making it a closed system. You can accomplish the same thing by duct taping the hose to the standpipe. So I could just call a plumber and tell them to do this, right? By me having this done, the water shouldn't overflow from that hose when I do laundry, right? Should I print out the images that you attached or just tell them what I want done?
Then I need to tell them to snake from the bathroom roof vent to fix the issue w/ the low water in the toilet, right? Do you think this will stop the bubbling in the toilet too? I don't need to tell them to snake the main line then? Does snake mean the same thing as rod?
Thanks again for all your help, advice and patience.
Thanks,
Janet
ballengerb1
Sep 22, 2009, 12:41 PM
Tell him what happens when you use your washer, he'll take it from there, plumbers are part detectives at heart. Snaking, rodding a drain line is likely under $200 but a clogged field must be dug up and replaced, $6000+
babyjay0319
Sep 22, 2009, 01:12 PM
Ok thanks. I'll let you know what happens. Thanks again for all your advice.
ballengerb1
Sep 22, 2009, 01:15 PM
Come back and let us know, Tom and I are here daily.
babyjay0319
Sep 22, 2009, 01:30 PM
Ok, no problem, I will.
1 more thing before I go...
Did you ever hear about putting baking soda or baking powder down the toilet to keep the septic tank in good shape? The company who pumped my septic said that one of their other customers did this and their septic tank looked great. Just wondering because I don't remember if they said baking powder or baking soda and when I called the company back to ask them, the ladies in the office had no clue.
ballengerb1
Sep 22, 2009, 02:05 PM
Save your money, soda just alters the ph of the sewage and that not a great idea. Who cares how the tank looks, remember what it is full of. We do at time use 1 tsp of baking soda wmix with equal part of table salt, dump down a slow draining sink and add a cup of vinegar. Watch what happens. Next day flush with a big bucket of hot water. Septic also do not need any Ridix or other bacteria additives, they just lighten your wallet. Every chunk, sorry, of solids you flush has more bacteria than a cup of Ridex
speedball1
Sep 22, 2009, 02:54 PM
Hey Janet,
I guess now would be a good time to give you some septic tank tips. As for the washer stand pipe just show the plumber my post. He'll know what to do.
Let me give you a few pointers. Since the septic tank is such an essential part of a sewage system, here are some points to remember about the "care and feeding" of that part of the onsite sewage treatment system.
A "starter" is not needed for bacterial action to begin in a septic tank. Many bacteria are present in the materials deposited into the tank and will thrive under the growth conditions present.
If you feel that an additive is needed, be aware that some may do great harm. Additives that advertise to "eliminate" tank cleaning may cause the sludge layer to fluff up and be washed out into the drainfield, plugging soil pores. Some additives, particularly degreasers, may contain carcinogens (cancer-causing) or suspected carcinogens that will flow into the ground water along with the water from the soil treatment unit.
Send all sewage into the septic tank. Don't run laundry wastes directly into the drainfield, since soap or detergent scum will plug the soil pores, causing failure.
Normal amounts of household detergents, bleaches, drain cleaners, and other household chemicals can be used and won't stop the bacterial action in the septic tank. But don't use excessive amounts of any household chemicals. Do not dump cleaning water for latex paint brushes and cans into the house sewer.
Don't deposit coffee grounds, cooking fats, wet-strength towels, disposable diapers, facial tissues, cigarette butts, and other non-decomposable materials into the house sewer. These materials won't decompose and will fill the septic tank and plug the system. To use a 5-gallon toilet flush to get rid of a cigarette butt is also very wasteful of water. Keep an ash tray in the bathroom, if necessary.
Avoid dumping grease down the drain. It may plug sewer pipes or build up in the septic tank and plug the inlet. Keep a separate container for waste grease and throw it out with the garbage.
If you must use a garbage disposal, you will likely need to remove septic tank solids every year or more often. Ground garbage will likely find its way out of the septic tank and plug up the drainfield. It is better to compost, incinerate, or deposit the materials in the garbage that will be hauled away. As one ad says, "You can pay me now, or pay me later."
Clean your septic tank every 1 to 3 years. How often depends on the size of the tank and how many solids go into it. A rule of thumb is once every 3 years for a 1,000 gallon tank serving a 3-bedroom home with 4 occupants (and with no garbage disposal).
Using too much soap or detergent can cause problems with the septic system. It is difficult to estimate how dirty a load of laundry is, and most people use far more cleaning power than is needed. If there are lots of suds in your laundry tub when the washer discharges, cut back on the amount of detergent for the next similar load. It's generally best not to use inexpensive detergents which may contain excessive amounts of filler or carrier. Some of these fillers are montmorillonite clay, which- is used to seal soils! The best solution may be to use a liquid laundry detergent, since they are less likely to have carriers or fillers that may harm the septic system.
Each septic system has a certain capacity. When this capacity is reached or exceeded, there will likely be problems because the system won't take as much sewage as you want to discharge into it. When the onsite sewage treatment system reaches its daily capacity, be conservative with your use of water. Each gallon of water that flows into the drain must go through the septic tank and into the soil absorption unit. Following are some ways to conserve water that should cause little hardship in anyone's standard of living:
Be sure that there are no leaking faucets or other plumbing fixtures. Routinely check the float valve on all toilets to be sure it isn't sticking and the water isn't running continuously. It doesn't take long for the water from a leaking toilet or a faucet to add up. A cup of water leaking out of a toilet every minute doesn't seem like much but that's 90 gallons a day! So be sure that there is no water flowing into the sewer when all water-using appliances are supposed to be off.
The most effective way to reduce the sewage flow from a house is to reduce the toilet wastes, which usually account for about 40 percent of the sewage flow. Many toilets use 5 to 6 gallons per flush. Some of the so-called low water use toilets are advertised to use only 3.5 gallons per flush. Usually the design of the bowl hasn't been changed, however, and often two flushes are needed to remove all solids. That's 7 gallons! Toilets are available which have been redesigned and will do a good job with one gallon or less per flush. Using a 1-gallon toilet rather than a 5 gallon toilet will reduce sewage flows from a home by about a third. This reduction may be more than enough to make the sewage system function again. While prices may vary, 1.6 gallon toilets can usually be purchased in the $200 range, far less than the cost of a new sewer system. Baths and showers can use lots of water. "Setting up camp" in the shower with a shower head flow of 5 gallons per minute will require 100 gallons in 20 minutes. Shower heads that limit the flow to 1.5 or 2 gallons per minute are available and should be used. Filling the tub not quite so full and limiting the length of showers will result in appreciable water savings.
-Is the water from the faucet cold enough to drink? How long do you let it run to cool down? Keep a container of drinking water in the refrigerator. Then it won't be necessary to run water from your faucets in order to get a cool drink.
There may be other ways to conserve water that you can think of in your home. The main idea is to consider water as a valuable resource and not to waste it.
Following a few simple rules like not using too much water and not depositing materials in the septic tank that bacteria can't decompose should help to make a septic system trouble-free for m, too! Any years. But don't forget the septic tank does need to be cleaned out when too many solids enter the system.
With a water meter you can determine how much water your automatic washer uses per cycle. Many washers now have settings to reduce the amount of water used for small loads. Front loading washers and suds savers use less water than top loading machines. If your sewage treatment system is reaching its maximum capacity, try to spread the washing out during the week to avoid overloading the sewage system on a single day. Septic tanks need tender, loving care too. Good luck and thank you for rating my answer, Tom
babyjay0319
Sep 23, 2009, 07:53 AM
Wow, thank you so much for all your useful information and pointers, I really appreciate it! I will definitely look into getting a 1 gallon Toilet. I will also look into getting a Shower Head that limits the flow to 1.5 or 2 gallons per minute. This should be a simple fix that I think I could do myself, right?
I don't see the On the Scales thing so I could rate your answer?
I went outside yesterday and noticed that there is a pipe that is leaking some water, I have no idea what the pipe is but it sticks out from the concrete block and it goes into the laundry room and it goes up and into the house. To get to my laundry room, you have to go outside then there's the laundry room attached to the house. In this same area, there's some mold on the concrete block. Do you think the plumber will be able to look at this and tell me what the problem is? Do you think that because the water overflows out of the hose in the laundry room onto the floor that this could be causing the mold on the concrete block?
When I tell the plumber to snake from the bathroom roof vent, this should fix the issue w/ the low water in the toilet, right? Do you think this will stop the bubbling in the toilet too? I don't need to tell them to snake the main line then, do I? Does snake mean the same thing as rod?
In reference to your question... is the water from the faucet cold enough to drink? Yes but I would never drink the water out of the faucet. Here in Jax, FL, the water smells like rotten eggs. It always has, even when I rented apartments. Do you know how to fix this smelly water? No big deal, I've learned to live with it. Actually, now that I think about it... The Refrigerator that came w/ the house has an automatic ice maker so maybe it is a big deal? I wonder if this is going to harm me by using the ice. What do you think?
Last year when that tropical storm passed by, we didn't know why the toilet wasn't flushing so we rented a snake from Home Depot and put it down the clean out, we pulled out some baby wipes. I wonder if there's still some in there? After talking w/ my neighbors, they said the people that used to live there had friends that would come by w/ a baby and flushed the baby wipes. Also after talking w/ my neighbors, they said when it rains a lot, the toilet won't flush because the ground is wet.
Thank you again for your advice / input.
Thanks,
Janet
speedball1
Sep 23, 2009, 11:39 AM
Do you think the plumber will be able to look at this and tell me what the problem is? Do you think that because the water overflows out of the hose in the laundry room onto the floor that this could be causing the mold on the concrete block? If you tell me what size the pipe is and the material it's made of I'll be happy to tell you.
Does snake mean the same thing as rod? Yes!
Here in Jax, FL, the water smells like rotten eggs. It always has, even when I rented apartments. Do you know how to fix this smelly water? No big deal, I've learned to live with it We have the same stinky water here in the Tampa Bay Area. There are aeration tanks that can remove the smell but involve a holding tank and pumps. We just chill the water before we drink it. I'd hook up the ice maker, does it dispense water also?
The baby wipes should have been removed when the tank was last pumped but if you're not getting backups I'd let it go. Good luck, Tom
babyjay0319
Sep 23, 2009, 02:04 PM
I'll take a look tonight at the pipe and will let you know tomorrow.
Thanks for letting me know that snake and rod mean the same thing.
That's good to know that there's stinky water in other places other than here in Jax. The ice maker is hooked up already so we've been using the ice but I just wanted to make sure it's not harmful or anything. Yes, the Frig also dispenses water.
Thanks,
Janet
It looks like it's a metal pipe, I can take a picture of it and can send it to you. Please let me know how to send the picture to you.
Thanks,
Janet
speedball1
Sep 24, 2009, 11:15 AM
To Send Attachments
Make your post and scroll down to Manage Attachments click on that and then click Browse This will allow you to get into your computer and retrieve your picture and upload it to The Plumbing Page.
babyjay0319
Sep 24, 2009, 11:36 AM
Thanks... I don't see this but I see My Profile, at the bottom of this page so hopefully I'll be able to do it. I'm going to leave to go take a picture and when I come back in a little while, I'll try to upload the picture.
speedball1
Sep 24, 2009, 11:52 AM
The "Manage Attachments" box will show up as soon as you click on "Post Reply" I'll be waiting.. Tom
babyjay0319
Sep 24, 2009, 01:03 PM
I have the pictures now and will send... I don't know if the water that I thought was coming out of that hose when I was clothes is coming out ot the white hose & pipe or if it's coming out of the other one that I'm pointing to in the picture.
I took pictures of the pipe that's dripping outside too.
Please take a look at these pictures and let me know what you think.
Nothing shows up for me to attach a picture? Every time I see that you have answered my question, I click on the link to read it and then I type in the box that says Answer this Question, then I click Post Quick Answer. I don't see anything that says Management Attachments. I'll keep looking...
I'm trying to attach the pictures... but it only lets me answer my own question. It didn't work...
It seemed to work somehow! Let me see if I could do upload the rest of the pictures I took...
babyjay0319
Sep 24, 2009, 01:22 PM
Here's the rest of the pictures but I think I'm answering my own post? Please look at all 8 pictures I attached and let me know what you think. Thanks.
speedball1
Sep 24, 2009, 03:27 PM
The white PVC pipe is a AC condensate drain line. The drip's normal. I don't know what the line is that you're pointing at. Is it a hose? Is the covering spongy when you press on it. Can you track it back and tell me where it originates? Cheers, Tom
babyjay0319
Sep 25, 2009, 06:32 AM
Thanks for letting me know that that drip is normal.
In the last picture, I'll check to see if it's a hose or what it's made of. I'll also check to see if I could tell where it originates. I'm almost positive that the covering is spongy on it but I'll double check. I don't think that the spongy covering is closed, I think it's ripped. Maybe this is the thing that leaks when I was clothes? I'll check this weekend when I wash clothes and will let you know. I think that the crinkly hose in the last picture is somehow attached to the washing machine. I got to check that out.
Did you see the mold on the concrete block? Do you think this could be because whatever it is that is overflowing when I wash clothes?
Thanks again,
Janet
babyjay0319
Oct 5, 2009, 06:58 AM
I think that the hose that I'm pointing to has to do w/ the a/c. It goes into the house. It has insulation over it.
When I did laundry yesterday, the water is coming out of the white crinkly hose which is connected to the washing machine.
Thanks
Janet