What's the best kind of glue to use to reattach the overflow drain to the underside of a Corian bathroom sink? Gorilla glue didn't work.

I would think silicone, but don't know. Can you post picture?

Isn't your overflow part of the actual sink, they are sparate things normally.

The overflow is separate from the sink and is a hard plastic (not Corian as the sink) and attaches to the drain hose. (The sink and drain hose are shown in the middle photo.) The part to be attached is shown in the 1st & 3rd photos and you can see the failed Gorilla glue still on the edge of it. We're hoping to be able to remove the glue.

Cut away all of the Gorilla glue and reattach to sink and tubing with clear silicone.
You will need to get a clean surface or edge where plastic fitting meets sink. After you have reattached and the silicone had dried, go back and put another bead around the edge to insure that it is water tight.

I agree with hkstroud, about the silicone.

The sink however is not Corian. It may be Solid surface. And the top is Corian but duPont never made sinks this way.

Ken

..

Do you know what kind of plastic? Is it PVC?

Does the attach have voids?

Gorilla glue isn't the right stuff.

I found this out: http://www2.dupont.com/Surfaces_Commercial/en_US/assets/downloads/pdfs/A.1.5.8_Corian_accessories_revised.pdf

And that the adhesives are propreitary and not generally available, but may be silicone based.

I might consider something like: 3M Marine Silicone Rubber Sealant (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=3812)

Presumably the "bulgy" is the over flow "piping" and presumably its PVC or some kind of plastic.

Hopefully Corianglue long ago sealed this up with silicone of some type. The only reason it comes up now is that kidoph said that the sink was not Corian. Something I don't understand given the printed stamp and the manufactures molded trade mark.

I would use an 'Aquarium' grade silicone or a fast setting two part epoxy that is rated for porcelain.

hkstroud

Thanks for pointing out what a dumbass thai I must be. I had thought that I had seen tham all. The overflows that I have seen have all been made of Corian. This looks that some engineer over there designed some kind of couge system. DuPont seam adhesive is not good for PVC and PVC adhesive isnot good for Corian. I will have to ask some of my buddies at the plant what this was.

Thanks again. And silicone should work fine. Just allow it to set for 48 hours.

Ken

Thanks for pointing out what a dumbass thai I must be.
Hi Ken,

Didn't mean it that way. Just trying to resolve questions in my own mine.

Hk

I did not taki it badly. I just feel stupid for my arrogance.

Thanks

Guys,
I'm not familiar with this set up. What's that bulgy raised area that runs from the rim down below the stopper if it isn't a overflow? please excuse my "dumbness" but remember I've been retired for over 20 years and I learn from you guys that are still out in the field. Regards, Tom



Tom, yes what you are seeing is the overflow, but its not built into the sink. Its actually just a rubber hose that goes from the p.o. assembly up to the piece that is glued on at the outside of the actuall overflow hole in sink. The sinks that I've installed with this overflow setup actuall come with the hose not connected. You have to push the hose on the barbed fitting at p.o and on the barbed fitting at the plastic overflow piece. Sometimes you even have to cut the rubber hose to correct length for correct fitting. I personally don't like the setup, for this reason. The plastic piece at overflow that hose hooks to tends to come disconnected from sink while trying to push the hose on, which is the problem seen here. Clear silicone is a great fix, as long as you clean the area well and let the silicone set up for 24 hours or longer, than take care to not put too much pressure on the upper fitting when installing the hose. Lee.

I have two corian sinks in a bath that is about 11 years old. Both overflows came unglued at their attachment to the sink (at about the same time). Really cheezy design! I experimented with several types of glue. Epoxy will stick to the corian but not to the plastic piece. Silicone will stick to both but stays soft and will eventually pull apart if there is any tension from the overflow tube. I ended up using a Dap Kwik Seal Plus clear silicone to attach the plastic part back onto the corian sink and then used a piece of wood and wedges between the plastic part and the cabinet face to press the plastic part against the sink. I will leave the wood permanently. Think it will stay. I considered using a two part epoxy to attach a bolt to the sink on each side of the plastic part and make a metal bracket to hold the plastic part against the sink to take stress off the glue. It is hard for me to believe that Dupont would market a product so poorly engineered. I think they are still making the sinks in this same way.

I did find a product that looks like it would do the job: http://www.cotronics.com/vo/cotr/pdf/7050.pdf

Another possibility is Gorilla Glue or Gorilla Epoxy: Gorilla Glue Guide (http://www.gorillaglue.com/glues/glue-guide.aspx) But note the incompatibilities with some plastics. Gorilla glue requires a MAJOR clamping system to be in place because of the expansion of the glue.

I'd probably seal the edges with a clear bathroom caulk such as those mad by DAP.

Remember that the surfaces need to be clean and dry. The plastic need to be roughed up with say 220 grit sandpaper. Wipe surfaces with alcohol prior to gluing.

Note that the Gorilla Epoxy is "water resistant" and not waterproof.

I've used Seal-all occasionally. http://www.eclecticproducts.com/_tds/sealall_tds.pdf This is available in some hardware stores.

You right. Those material will be hard to glue.

ee101 andKISS,
Ya-all are responding to a 2 year old dead thread!

Ugh! I just ran into this problem today - ran some water through my bathroom overflow drain and heard water dripping in the cabinet underneath. Found the same problem - plastic piece detached from the sink. Checked my other bathroom sink, and it's the same setup, just hasn't come detached yet.

I don't know who I'm more upset with - the manufacturer for building this piece of junk, or the previous owner who bought and installed it.

Glad I found this thread, since I was just about to try Gorilla Glue as well. Off to find some DAP Kwik Seal Plus. Wish me luck.

It is now 2012 and I just found the same problem on two Corian bathroom sinks.

Very bad design...

What was the best solution discovered. I would expect silicone to come loose after a couple of years. What was there was flexible but very strongly adhered to the PVC

I forget which adhesive I ended up using, some sort of silicone adhesive from Home Depot. The problem I ran into was that the force of the tube was pulling the plug away from the drain hole. I tried jamming various things behind it to hold it in place while the sealant set without luck. Luckily, my sink has two thin flanges which run up the front of the bottom on either side of the drain tube. So I took a drill and made one small hole in each flange up near the drain hole, put the sealant on the plastic piece that goes around the drain hole, then wired it tightly in place by running the wire between the two holes behind the plastic bit. So effectively I'm using the wire to hold it in place, and the sealant just to keep it from leaking. Seems to be working so far.

Fingers crossed.

Thanks- I was kind of shocked when I took it all apart and saw the design. I'm not an engineer but am pretty skilled with mechanical things and I could easily see that this was a bad design. When I checked my other sink was detached. Just did not have the mold and rotten smell

Will look at glues but agree it needs some kind of backing to hold it in place and the ribbed groves are trapping moisture and mold.

Suggestion.

Try Locktite two part epoxy. There is a marine version. Comes in different drying times.

Mix up a small amount and dab a little on each part to check for adhesion. Pick spot that will not interfere with actual joining. Let it cure well. Cure time depends on temperature and humidity. Test adhesion after curing, chances are you won't be able to remove the test spots.

Probably have to tape the parts together while drying.

That should give you a permanent repair.

6/6/2015: Just did a bathroom cabinet change out, and after removing the Corian sink top (to reuse), I discovered the same issue with the overflow tube/flange coming unglued from the underside of the sink assembly. My set up is exactly like the photos posted above from OP. Original adhesive/glue failed. Will Try the DAP, and hope it works.

This might be an old thread, but I just discovered the same problem in my 19 year old Corian sink. It's amazing what comes up on the internet - this was the first hit!

Thanks to all.

Hello DcLynch:

This is a 6 years old thread. Start your new thread by posting new question.

In the interim: we always used Silicon to attach sink overflow to Corian sink with great success.

Milo

We have 4 floors ( 22 rooms per floor with these sinks) we have tried everything that's listed and NOTHING holds up. We are looking into tapping overflow hole with 1/2 pipe threads. Then getting a 1/2" 90 ( plastic) with male threads and 3/4 barb for overflow tube. We think the overflow fitting was hot glued in with sink upside down.

We are looking into tapping overflow hole with 1/2 pipe threads.
How you going to do that if you have the elongated overflow hole?


We think the overflow fitting was hot glued in with sink upside down.
I agree. Hot glue will stick to Corian but only so well. When gluing two pieces of Corian together you have to clamp them to get a tight joint. When you can't get clamps across both pieces, you hot glue two strips of wood to the top surface. You them clamp the wooden strips together. After the adhesive has dried you pop the wooden strips up and scrape the hot glue off.

You say you have tried the silicone and the two part epoxy. Those might not last for ever but certainly long time. Even hot glue should last as long as the original.

Have you tried cyanoacrylate glue? If not suggest you try some on the plastic part. Suppose to adhere to most plastics.

If it will adhere to the plastic, try it. Cyanoacrylate will stick to Corian.

As an experiment I went out to the shop and found a piece of scrap Corian 3/4" by 3/4". Cut two pieces 6" long. Ran through table saw to get clean edge.

I then glued them together (1 1/2 X 3/4 X 6) with some medium cyanoacrylate glue. Clamped with quick clamps. Let dry for about 30 minutes. Temperature about 45 degrees.

Seem to be well bonded.

Put in a vice clamping one piece. Used an 8" adjustable wrench to grip the other piece. While I was able to break them apart, it took some effort. About the amount of force you would need to break loose a well tightened 3/4" bolt.

May have been stronger if I had let cure longer.

Took more force to break the joint apart than it took to break a 3/4" X 3/4" X 6" piece into.

PS
Made a nice joint also. When sanded, the seam disappeared, just like with the Corian adhesive. Now I can glue my Corian scraps together without the Corian adhesive.