I am building a 36'x48' pole barn. I noticed after framing that typical construction of a pole barn consists of the posts being 8' o.c.. I, however, set my 6'x6' posts at 12' o.c. along the entire perimeter and also set 6 internal 6x6's of eaqual distances in order to have eight 12x12 horse stalls and a 12' center aile. The outside walls have 2"x12" double truss supports and the interior posts have 2"x10" truss supports. My question is, is the fact that my posts are 12' o.c. a problem. My trusses are 4' o.c. and supported by both outside walls and interior posts. Thanks for any help. The marks in the diagram below indicate just how I have the posts situated with 12' o.c. between each post.

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12 O.C. is fine for 6x6 set. I always set mine at 12 and use 6x6 on top for the plate.

The only thing I don't understand is why did you think you need interior post support for the truss? What pitch is it. What kind of truss design are you using?

The last pole barns we build always has a clear span. What is the bottom cord board. 2by4? Should be a 2x6. We use 2x8 bottom cords for 58 foot clear span and that will hole double 5x8 fire rated drywall for the ceiling You will may need closer spacing for the side perlins. Depends on Gage of steel siding or using 2x4s ir 2x6s for perlins.

Great! I will sleep better tonight. I'm kind of a worry wart. I have the center supports because I had a light storage loft built into the trusses. The pitch is 6/12. The bottom cord of the trussess are 2x8. My side perlins are 2x6. Using .28 gage steel on roof and sides. Thanks again for your help and guidance.



12 O.C. is fine for 6x6 set. I always set mine at 12 and use 6x6 on top for the plate.

The only thing I don't understand is why did you think you need interior post support for the truss? What pitch is it. What kind of truss design are you using?

The last pole barns we build always has a clear span. What is the bottom cord board. 2by4? Should be a 2x6. We use 2x8 bottom cords for 58 foot clear span and that will hole double 5x8 fire rated drywall for the ceiling You will may need closer spacing for the side perlins. depends on Gage of steel siding or using 2x4s ir 2x6s for perlins.

Are you using a truss that has a king post? Its an upright board from peak to center of truss? If so that needs a running scab/board connecting all adjacent truss to keep the King post from flexing to avoid total failure under snow loads

No sir. It does not have a king post. I buried a picture of the current state of the barn on my sons baseball teams website, which I am the webmaster of, for your viewing. Thanks so much for your time and opinions. Follow the link:
http://warrencountyswarm.com/barn.jpg


Are you using a truss that has a king post? Its an upright board from peak to center of truss? If so that needs a running scab/board connecting all adjacent truss to keep the King post from flexing to avoid total failure under snow loads

Hi usapt Do you get snow or ice there? If so don't forget the snowbirds on the roof
What kind of doors are you using.

I recommend the Round track with the ball for a really nice sliding barn door. The cheaper Square track and rollers stink compared to the newer ball rollers.

How are you finishing off the tail pieces at the soffit/side walls.
Also for the roof cap there is a mesh made that contours to the ribbed roof goes under the cap to keeps the wasp out. Same basic thing for the bottom starting strip to help keep the mice out. Sorry I build quite a lot of these around here and just trying to pass info.

We do get snow and ice here. I take it the snow caps mount on the fascia? I am using round tracks for the door slides.

Regarding the truss tails, should I use the end perlin, as the fascia board and just cut back the tails horizontally flush with the bottom of that perlin to allow for a horizontal vented soffit? Or should I have the soffit flush up with the underside of the truss and vent at an angle? I never built a barn before and really thank you sir for your expertise.

I did purchase a rat strip for the bottom and spongy strip for the vent. Thanks again!



Hi usapt Do you get snow or ice there? If so don't forget the snowbirds on the roof
What kind of doors are you using.

I recommend the Round track with the ball for a really nice sliding barn door. The cheaper Square track and rollers stink compared to the newer ball rollers.

How are you finishing off the tail pieces at the soffit/side walls.
Also for the roof cap there is a mesh made that contours to the ribbed roof goes under the cap to keeps the wasp out. Same basic thing for the bottom starting strip to help keep the mice out. Sorry I build quite a lot of these around here and just trying to pass info.

There is a ton of different designs in snow/ice guards. What it does is it help to keep a person from getting killed having an ice sheet sliding off a roof, It also helps stop the gutter from being ripped off the fascia.

We have a of very old standing seam roofs and slate roofs here. And they are a standard in roofing. Spacing varies. We usually put them every 24" along the roof. Need to stagger them form 24" of the lower edge and 48" from lower edge. This helps break up the sheet of ice/snow.

Snow Guards for Metal Roofing (http://www.metalroofsnowguards.com/)
Snow Guard Spacing and Layout Tool (http://www.metalroofsnowguards.com/Spacing_ep_33.html)
https://snoblox-snojax.com/?gclid=COn00IOospwCFRSfnAod2leKnQ

You can our are probably going to use a 2x8 for a fascia board for scale and also it being a 2x8 as opposed to a 1x8 because of the 4' spacing on the truss. Or use a 2x6 and bring that starter perlin on top to top of fascia board.to get the width. Temp lay out a perlin at the end of the fascia. Measure down from there the width of the fascia board this will determine if you need to cut the bottoms of the tail piece which doesn't usually happen. Keep that distance 12" away from the building you will get full usage from the vented soffit material no waste. Don't forget to take into account the perlin width thats around the top edge of the plate. If you already have 12 inches from that perlin/plate then the choice here is to cut the end of the tail piece to shrink it down or keep the wider soffit.

I use alum for soffits. Doesn't vibrate in the wind like vinyl. To cut that lay out saw horses and a plank. Lay alum soffit on the board with a couple of block scabs to raise the soffit or lay the soffit material on the sacrificial plank.

Tape the bottom shoe of the circular saw and put a plywood blade in the saw back wards to cut soffit material. You can use a pair of snips but I lay out the soffit in 2 or 3 pieces and gang cut them. You will need a wide thick screwdriver to re open clean the slot grove and a utility knife helps. so that slot is totally open to slip into one another. Measure the soffit length to adjust for the first cut if need be so you don't end up with a sliver at the other end.

I box the end of soffits to the end wall to gable wall. Oh make sure you lay this all out in heights if you are buying the pre bent fascia material to meet its widths.

Not sure what width rake metal "drip edge" you are getting be aware you loose some width with the standing/ribbed seam and the soffit metal thickness.
Are you getting the rain shield for the door roller track? If not do

usapt:
FYI:

You can post pics and other files directly to the site using Go advanced/manage attachements.

If I may ask the following question sir, I'm a bit confused regarding the starting perlin attached to the trusses on the sides. How far do I raise those boards up to act as the first perlin? If I raise it up 1.5" are they not too high in comparison to the other perlins due to the differing angles? Also, does or can this perlin also double as the fascia board for which I can attached the metal to under the gutter? Thanks again!!



There is a ton of different designs in snow/ice guards. What it does is it help to keep a person from getting killed having an ice sheet sliding off a roof, It also helps stop the gutter from being ripped off the fascia.

We have a of very old standing seam roofs and slate roofs here. And they are a standard in roofing. spacing varies. We usually put them every 24" along the roof. Need to stagger them form 24" of the lower edge and 48" from lower edge. This helps break up the sheet of ice/snow.

Snow Guards for Metal Roofing (http://www.metalroofsnowguards.com/)
Snow Guard Spacing and Layout Tool (http://www.metalroofsnowguards.com/Spacing_ep_33.html)
https://snoblox-snojax.com/?gclid=COn00IOospwCFRSfnAod2leKnQ

You can our are probably going to use a 2x8 for a fascia board for scale and also it being a 2x8 as opposed to a 1x8 because of the 4' spacing on the truss. Or use a 2x6 and bring that starter perlin on top to top of fascia board.to get the width. Temp lay out a perlin at the end of the fascia. Measure down from there the width of the fascia board this will determine if you need to cut the bottoms of the tail piece which doesn't usually happen. Keep that distance 12" away from the building you will get full usage from the vented soffit material no waste. Don't forget to take into account the perlin width thats around the top edge of the plate. If you already have 12 inches from that perlin/plate then the choice here is to cut the end of the tail piece to shrink it down or keep the wider soffit.

I use alum for soffits. Doesn't vibrate in the wind like vinyl. To cut that lay out saw horses and a plank. Lay alum soffit on the board with a couple of block scabs to raise the soffit or lay the soffit material on the sacrificial plank.

Tape the bottom shoe of the circular saw and put a plywood blade in the saw back wards to cut soffit material. You can use a pair of snips but I lay out the soffit in 2 or 3 pieces and gang cut them. You will need a wide thick screwdriver to re open clean the slot grove and a utility knife helps. so that slot is totally open to slip into one another. Measure the soffit length to adjust for the first cut if need be so you don't end up with a sliver at the other end.

I box the end of soffits to the end wall to gable wall. Oh make sure you lay this all out in heights if you are buying the pre bent fascia material to meet its widths.

Not sure what width rake metal "drip edge" you are getting be aware you loose some width with the standing/ribbed seam and the soffit metal thickness.
Are you getting the rain sheild for the door roller track? If not do

( Side note) usapt you don't need to quote my answer, Just highlight pieces of an answer to re-address a question saves a lot of space or not quote is needed. I can read all the previous post you have to reflect.

Lets address the prep before any perlins on the roof is installed. I assume you want an overhang in the gable ends for looks and to keep water from blowing up under.

Need to build ladders an attach them flush to the top truss/gables. This also needs laid out for width. The ladders are heavy depending on how long you make them. I make ladders for pole buildings on the ground. Build it like a stud wall and lift in place and nail it. I use a 2x6 (back plate) 2x6 fascia side And 2x6 for the outlookers except I turn them so the 1 1/2" is flush to top of roof pitch. Look at page 11 on this site to give you a better sense.
http://www.allpan.com/res/FramingWithRoofs.pdf
After the ladder is done then finish off the rough framing down the side over hangs.

I'm a bit confused regarding the starting perlin attached to the trusses on the sides. How far do I raise those boards up to act as the first perlin?
After the ladders on side over hangs framed in and lay the first perlin flush from the ladder furtherest edge and down the side of the building over hangs and flush with the fascia board. ( Note keep them a tad back form the edge because of the roof angel difference in the slope. Use a board against the wood fascia to the top edge of the first perlin doesn't stick past the wood fascia board and the drip edge won't get kicked out.


Also, does or can this perlin also double as the fascia board for which I can attached the metal to under the gutter?
This is where I said earlier you have 2 choices here. (1.) is the perlin set out over and on top flush to the fascia board, which that can now be a 2x6 (2.) is perlin put on flush with the tail pieces and then the wood 2x8 fascia board against tail piece and perlin.

Couldn't I just start my perlins 10.5 inches hangin over each end to create my gable ends overhang? I realize warping downward might be a concern but I could nail another 10.5" 2x4 perpendicular on each perlin to prevent this. Then nail a 2x6 fascia board to the ends.

Couldn't I just start my perlins 10.5 inches hanging over each end to create my gable ends overhang? I realize warping downward might be a concern but I could nail another 10.5" 2x4 perpendicular on each perlin to prevent this. Then nail a 2x6 fascia board to the ends.

I don't recommend that for a couple of reason no to mention more time involved.

1. Set bottom perlin and top perlin to string line.
2. Set perlins exactly yo line
3. Small Pisces up ( dropping )
4. Need to set first down piece off perlin and keep is relative square ( Hold in place to nail)
5. Add the small piece back toward building and keep steady to toe nail and face nail to drop piece

Quality control may go out the window quick and the time to do it that way verses building it on the ground is no contest. Toe nailing up the rake at the compound angle is not as quick and easy as you think to get straight

To cut a back board set the mini studs on that, with a cut face board and nail it together is quick. Perfect quality control and no pieces to drop or beat around to adjust for the toe nail rake lookouts.

On a side note you want the finish fascia to be 7' or 7 1/2" depending on a 2x6 and perlin above or a perlin to edge of truss tail piece and a 2x8 flush to top of perlin.