I'm wanting to replace my polybutylene outside waterline pipes and don't know what type of pipes to replace it with. I've called several contractors and everyone has made different suggestions. But of course they are going to say that what they sell is the best. I want whatever is the best and will last the longest. I orgianlly said that I wanted copper but everyone said that copper is the most expensive and harder to install and not any better than the plastic pipes. Any suggestions?

I personally agree that cpvc or cpv is at least as good as copper, but it's like lots of things - plumbers get to liking something, so always use it and recommend it.

It's definitely easier - and way less expensive than copper.

I vote that if cpv is up to code in your area, then go for it.

I have to go along with Rick,

Galvanized rusts, copper is expensive and will corrode, We run all our house service lines with Schedule 40 PVC. CPVC is not necessary for cold water service lines. Good luck, Tom

Aquapex (http://www.uponor-usa.com/index.php?id=2) would be my recommendation.

It can be purchased (by certified installers only) in 300 foot rolls in sizes ranging from 1/2" to 1-1/2".

What makes Aquapex so recommendable for water lines is that if installed properly, you can do the entire water line with one solid piece of piping, thus eliminating the need to couple several pieces of piping together -- Assuming your meter is within 300 feet of the house, of course.

It's a great product and I recommend it highly.

Keep in mind that Uponor has several competitors, and I do not recommend any of those.

Tom is the top plumber here. He says PVC. PVC is cheap, readily available, and close to foolproof. Just clean up pieces before joining. I did some plumbing over the summer. Lowe's is cheaper and has a better selection of fittings than Home Depot. They stock a CPVC to PVC adapter. You can buy CPVC compression unions or Shark Tooth unions and connect copper to CPVC with no soldered joints. Then adapt to PVC.

Tom is the top plumber here. He says PVC. PVC is cheap, readily available, and close to foolproof. Just clean up pieces before joining. I did some plumbing over the summer. Lowes is cheaper and has a better selection of fittings than Home Depot. They stock a CPVC to PVC adapter. You can buy CPVC compression unions or Shark Tooth unions and connect copper to CPVC with no soldered joints. Then adapt to PVC.

Sorry, but I have to disagree.

A contiguous water line with only two joints (one at the house and one at the meter) is far more preferable to a water line with multiple glued fittings.

It goes by a lot of names but it's HDPE, or high density polyurethane. It is rated for all types of soil easy to work with and like any water line must be protected from freezing. You can buy it in 10' lengths, or 300' rolls. You can have it fused together, or use brass compression fittings for valves & any other appertenance. If you have any questions about it drop me a line or contact a local pipe supplier in you area I'm sure they carry it. You can get it in pipe sizes from 3/4" to 24". It is more pliable that cpvc and tougher than C900

Let me see, 10 foot lengths that has to be glued or a 300 foot roll? On my 75 foot run from the meter to the house I would have 8 couplings if I installed 10 foot lengths. If I bought a 300 foot roll I would have 225 feet left over that I couldn't use. To top it off Growler tells us that it can be bought be bought only by certified installers only.
Nah! I'll stick with PVC pipe with half the couplings and less then 10 feet of PVC left over. Tom

You may make a phone call on the HDPE most places will sell it in shorter rolls, and few will sell it by the foot. A bonus is you don't have to be certified to use it. It truly is a good product in fact a lot of public water system use it over pvc. What the heck phone calls are cheap, or check it out on the web.

Kegs,

Both you and Growler are correct. No couplings are better then some couplings. And it's a lot easier to roll out out a service line then to prime, glue and couple the lengths but so far I haven't heard a word about price.
Can you come up with a footage cost on 3/4 or 1 inch sizes? Also how flexable would this be in cold weather? Tom

2" can be hard to roll out on a cold overcast day, but if the sun is out it will heat up and be a little easier to work with. 1" isn't to bad have someone bed the pipe as you roll it out and it should stay in place. As for cost it's about the same as pvc, in some areas more. Here in the northwest we pay about 40 cents a foot for 1" pvc and 48 cents a foot for 1" HDPE

2" can be hard to roll out on a cold overcast day, but if the sun is out it will heat up and be a little easier to work with. 1" isn't to bad have someone bed the pipe as you roll it out and it should stay in place. As for cost it's about the same as pvc, in some areas more. Here in the northwest we pay about 40 cents a foot for 1" pvc and 48 cents a foot for 1" HDPE

Thanks Kegs,
I'll check it out with our shops wholesaler. Tom

Why are you replacing the butylene? Almost anything except galvanized should last indefinitely buried in the ground barring a trencher. My house was built in 1970. The incoming PVC water line is still in fine shape.

What kind of fittings does the HDPE or XLPE take? Are they cheap and DIY proof like PVC? By the way, it hurts your credibility to confuse HDPE and polyurethane.

I just reread the original post. If the OP is hiring a contractor, that makes the availability, fittings, and DIY friendliness less important. I might suggest letting the low bidder use whatever he likes.

If I was doing the work, it would be PVC.

Sorry labman you are correct. It should be high density polyethylene I apologize for the error and confusion on that. Since the pipe comes in IP sizes you can use compression style fittings. I have not heard or read of any glue on fittings for HDPE you would need to talk to a supplier about that. As far as the compression fittings go they are pretty DIY friendly. Butylene has had a reputation for quite a while it depends on what side of the fence your on, but it will react with a chlorinated water supply and become brittle over time.

Kegs,

Both you and Growler are correct. No couplings are better then some couplings. And it's a lot easier to roll out out a service line then to prime, glue and couple the lengths but so far I haven't heard a word about price.
Can you come up with a footage cost on 3/4 or 1 inch sizes? Also how flexable would this be in cold weather? Tom

My cost for 3/4" per foot $0.96

My cost for 1" per foot $1.68

Plus my 20% mark-up, of course.

Also, it can be purchased in 100, 200 and 300 foot rolls.

As for ease of roll-out in cold weather, it's never been an issue.

I'm wanting to replace my polybutylene outside waterline pipes and don't know what type of pipes to replace it with. I've called several contractors and everyone has made different suggestions. But of course they are going to say that what they sell is the best. I want whatever is the best and will last the longest. I orgianlly said that I wanted copper but everyone said that copper is the most expensive and harder to install and not any better than the plastic pipes. Any suggestions?
If you live in Georgia contact Atlantis Plumbing.
http://www.atlantisplumbing.com/polybutylene-replacement.html

Uponor is a new name for an older company that specializes in pex. It is a good product but not for a do-it-yourselfer. I personally use schedule 40 pvc one size larger than the service connection at the house and put it in a 2" pvc sleeve. this way i have saved the expense of copper, get full volume over a distance, have a system where i am not concerned about disturbing any future landscaping to make any repairs, protected my service line from possible underground damages, and made it user friendly if he wants to repair himself. this job sells all day in atlanta for 23 bucks a foot at 14" deep. I also use blue glue with no primer.