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View Full Version : Problems with a B&G 6.0 lawn mower engine


waynestorm
Jun 14, 2009, 09:55 AM
I have a Craftsman 6.0 Horsepower 22" Side Discharge Push mower. I've been trying to get this thing started for the longest. I don't think that I am getting any fuel into the carburator even though I changed all the gaskets and cleaned out the carburator completely. I used some quick start and sprayed it into the carburator and it sounded like it wanted to start. But it didn't. I changed that wire that goes to the soleniod thinking that I wasn't getting a starter spark. I also dismantled the rest of the mower right down to the piston. I cleaned off the gunk and put it back together. I have a question that might sound dumb but I would like an answer. Should there be any oil around where the piston goes up and down? Not where the spark plug fires but underneath where the piston cranks. Is there timing issues that I should be concerned about? By the soleniod, there are two magnetic looking poles that are at a distance from the spinning thing that cranks the engine (sorry I don't know the name of it). Should these things be a certain distance from the spinning thing?

crigby
Jun 21, 2009, 02:45 PM
Hi,
Got me confused! Yes, a small amount of oil on the lower cylinder wall is normal. I believe that what you describe as a solenoid is the ignition module or armature. Yes it should be 0.010 - 0.014" from the magnets of the flywheel (that is the thing that spins with the engine.) It can be set with an ordinary business card.
You have little understanding of the machine, but I think the first thing that needs to be checked is the flywheel key since it will not start off of ether (which is absolutely the wrong thing to use on it.) That would involve removing the screen from atop the flywheel and then the nut and washer. The nut is 15/16" (or 24mm) and can most easily be removed, in your case, by carefully taking a length of 2x4 and placing it so that it will jam and wedge the blade into a rigid location (like through the discharge chute, etc.) so that the nut can be turned counter-clockwise while everything else stays still. Once the nut and washer are removed you should be able to visibly inspect the flywheel and crankshaft to see if the slots in each that the key fit in line up or not. My guess is they don't
Tightening the nut is done by wedging the blade so as to be able to tighten in the clockwise direction.
Let me know.
Peace,
Clarke