My fiancé has a 1991 honda civic 1.6 L hatchback manual transmission.The car starts but has rough idle and once shifted into gear and given acceleration the engine dies.We have already replaced the fuel pump,fuses,spark plugs,fuel filter,and have checked the main relay and all the hoses and belts.what could be causing it to do this?

Replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-4.html#post265896

What exactly does the ICM do and is there a way to test it to make sure that it needs replaced?

Bench testing ICMs and coils is not reliable. I have seen many test okay that don't work at all. These are the two most problematic components on Hondas of this generation. I recommend replacing them every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

The ICM acts like "electronic points." A microprocessor inside, which gets destroyed by heat and electron migration, opens and closes the coil's primary electrical field. This causes 12 voilts to be stepped-up to 40,000 volts in the secondary field of the coil. This symphony is directed by the ECM (computer). When the ICM starts to fail, it "fires" erratically and not when it's supposed to. I deal with performance problems, like your's, every day on this site.

So if we replace what you said than the car should not die out anymore when it is accelerated?because as of right now we can't get it to move anywhere

Yes, if the Check Engine Light does not stay on, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II). Do a search on this site and check out my track record on replacing Ignition Control Modules and coils. Then, you can decide if you want to spend your hard earned money on my recommendation.

Do you have an accleration screw? Sometimes just an easy move of the screw one direction or the other will make it raise the idel and keep the car running.

TX GREESEMONKEY do you think it could be the screw?

No. The car dies upon acceleration, which is not affected by idle rpm. If the car died while idling, then the idle rpm might have to be raised--provided nothing else was wrong.

I believe the problem above is classic ICM and/or coil failure, especially if the Check Engine Light comes on and goes off normally.

Where can I find the ICM and coil? and I just went out to start the car and it idle for a minute and shut off and I wasn't trying to accelerate... could it still be the ICM?

Absolutely. The ICM is located inside the distributor--remove the distributor cap and leak cover. Just follow the instructions I provided; then, you'll have your car running flawlessly in an hour. The coil is located outside the distributor cap, with a high tension wire from the coil going into the cap.

Okay I am going to have my fiancé do it when he gets home from work... thank you very much and I will let you know what happens with it

It will work. Make sure he disconnects the negative battery cable, before working on the distributor. Also, make sure he coats the new ICM with a thin, even coat of silicone heat-transfer grease. It should be included with the new ICM--if not, ask them for it.

. Here's what the ICM looks like and costs:

AutoZone.com | Vehicle Selection | Year (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsShelf.jsp?categoryDisplayName=Electrical+%26+ Lighting&fromType=parts&fromString=search&parentId=cat30065&currentPage=1&filterByKeyWord=ignition+control+module&isSearchByPartNumber=false&navValue=15700029&categoryNValue=15799999&fromWhere=&itemId=prod61183&displayName=Control+Module+-+Ignition&searchText=ignition+control+module)

. Here's what the coil looks like and costs:

AutoZone.com | Vehicle Selection | Year (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsShelf.jsp?categoryDisplayName=Ignition+(Tune+ Up)&fromType=parts&fromString=search&parentId=cat30070&currentPage=1&filterByKeyWord=coil&isSearchByPartNumber=false&navValue=16200027&categoryNValue=16299999&fromWhere=&itemId=prod61181&displayName=Coil+-+Ignition&searchText=coil)

Does the coil and module have to be replaced with a new one or can they just be cleaned?

If you want to save money, try replacing the ICM first. Neither of these components can just be cleaned. The ICM contains a sophisticated microprocessor that gets destroyed by heat over time. Sometimes, they even melt. Coils also break down under load (usually, but not always, when they get hot). Bench testing doesn't really simulate well real life conditions.

I used to recommend that people have their ICMs tested on a Well's machine at AutoZone for free. However, too many were passing the test and still not working. I was trying to help people save money. I never saw one test bad on their machine that worked. You might feel more comfortable having them test your ICM.

Well my fiancé just went to autozone and he said that they tested the ICM and it was bad and that the coil is not good but not bad.they said the car will still run but not as good as it should.so we are just going to buy the ICM right now.thanks a lot for pointing us in the right direction because we had no idea what it was and I will definitely be asking you again if we have any more problems

Well bad news... he just put in a brand new ICM and cleaned the spark plugs because they were brand new yesterday but today looked kind of burned a little bit and the car started for about a minute and than died and now won't start... any suggestions?

As I mentioned above, bench testing coils is almost useless--I would replace it. The plugs may not be firing clean, and are fouling, because the coil is so weak. There's no need to clean the plugs, since they will clean themselves up once the new coil is in and they start firing properly. You can confirm this by checking for spark. Remove a spark plug wire and attach it to a properly gapped spark plug (it can be an old plug), touch the plug to a convenient ground, and observe the spark, while someone cranks the engine. Look for a good, solid spark.

Well we replaced the ICM and the coil and its still not running and now its to the point that it won't even turn over... anything else we should be testing or replacing that'll make it run??

If the starter won't turn over, remove and fully charge the battery--don't try to jump it, since the ECM, alternator, and sensors can be damaged by a voltage spike. AutoZone will charge batteries for free.

Perform the standard spark test; i.e. remove a spark plug wire and attach it to a properly gapped spark plug, touch the plug to a convenient ground, and observe the spark, while someone cranks the engine. Look for a good, solid spark.

If the Check Engine Light comes on for 2 seconds and goes out, after the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), the problem is distributor-related. Normally, if replacing the ICM and coil does not solve the problem, there's a problem with the distributor housing itself; i.e. one or more internal sensors (CKP, CYL, and TDC) are damaged. These sensors are not serviceable. It this case, install your new ICM and coil in a genuine Honda distributor housing. We have had many problems with new aftermarket distributor housings on this site.

So buy a new distributor housing thing? is the ckp a crankshaft position sensor because its throwing a #4 code which according to everything I've found online is a crankshaft position sensor but we couldn't find that sensor on the car or at autozone to buy it... how exactly do I find a distibutor housing?

Yes, your problem is almost solved. You definitely need a new distributor housing, since the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) is inside the distributor housing. Go to Honda, or buy a Honda distributor housing online. Then, install the new ICM in the new distributor housing. Reuse your existing distributor cap. This link should help:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-4.html#post288473

Doing it this way, you will not have wasted any money. Honda distributor housings tend to last around 90,000 miles--after that the bearing and sensors go.

Is a distributor the same as distributor housing?? will it come with all the sensors in it?

When you say a complete Honda distributor, most people think of a component consisting of the distributor cap, rotor, ICM, internal sensors (Cranshaft Position Sensor, Cylinder Position Sensor, and Top Dead Center Sensor), inside a housing. The housing consists of all the internal sensors, but it does not come with the distributor cap, rotor, and ICM--therefore, it's cheaper.

Well we ordered a distributor and it does not come with a rotor or cap but does come with the ICM so hopefully it's the right one with all the sensors and stuff.

That's fine. However, if you ordered one without an ICM, you'd save money and be able to use the new one you bought from AutoZone.

I know but I couldn't find one that was the right kind for his car.if it doesn't start after we replace this than I give up!

Hey I got another question but its about my car... today it started surging when its in park and nuetral.the RPM goes up than down than up than down even though I'm not pushing the gas pedal and its in park or nuetral.any ideas on what it could be?oh and my car is a 2002 mitsubishi lancer

Clean the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV):

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-7.html#post1054149

Where is the IACV on a lancer

Either on top or on the back of the throttle body. It would be best if you bought a Haynes Manual for your car.

OK... also, we replaced the distributor on the honda and the car still dies out almost right after being started when given gas.my fiancé thinks its bad gas causing it because the inside of his tank was all rusted and he cleaned it out but yesterday he let some gas out of it and it was a dark orangeish reddish color.do you think bad gas would now be the problem?

Rust in a tank is nasty and almost impossible to get rid of--it just keeps coming back. My experience has been that the only thing that works is replacing the tank and changing the fuel filter.

Well he just put in a new fuel filter and clean gas and the car starts than dies and than won't start back up

Where is the fuel pipe located at

Another trick is to pull out an o2 sensor or drop exhaust before cat.. poss pluged cat.. fixed 3 hondas and one jeep this way