I want to tear out an interior wall that separates the dining room from the entryway. The wall is 9' long and I want to remove 6' of it leaving 3' by the front door for a small entry way. 3' from that wall is another wall with a hallway closet. Do I have to beef up the supporting beams or not?

Well, there's not enough info here to answer your question - we don't know what the load is on the wall. My approach would be to remove the drywall from one side of the wall, and see what is inside. If there is just normal 16" studding, I'd guess that I'm dealing with a non-load bearing wall. If I see diagonal braces (usually 1x4's) or "posts" (4x4s or multiple 2x4s), I would assume loadbearing and have to look farther to figure how to carry the load.

Hi patty

Do roof rafters run in same direction as wall u want to remove? If they do, ceiling beams probably also run parallel to wall.

If there is an attic above this space, go in attic and see which way ceiling beams are running. If ceiling is sheetrock, u will find supports nailed between beams where wall is located. U will also see a 2x4 nailed to the bottom of supports the length of wall. This the top plate of wall.

If what I described is there, wall is not a bearing wall and can be removed. Be careful of any electric that may be on this wall.

Good luck

Chuck

Hi patty

Do roof rafters run in same direction as wall u want to remove? If they do, ceiling beams probably also run parallel to wall.

If there is an attic above this space, go in attic and see which way ceiling beams are running. If ceiling is sheetrock, u will find supports nailed between beams where wall is located. U will also see a 2x4 nailed to the bottom of supports the length of wall. This the top plate of wall.

If what I described is there, wall is not a bearing wall and can be removed. Be careful of any electric that may be on this wall.

Good luck

Chuck

Roof rafters run in the same direction as the wall and so do the ceiling beams. I only have one light switch to remove and it will be shoretened and moved to the section of wall I will be leaving. So can I tear down 6' of this 11'6" wall?
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The second pic of the attic shows the area where I want to tear down the wall... you can see the ceiling joists with wires running across them. I want to tear the wall out up to the other side of the aquarium.

Hi Patty

In my opinion, the end of the wall where sconce is located, is supporting a beam/girder that is carrying ceiling beams.

U would have to leave this support. U can remove wall from inside of girder, but must leave the post.

Chuck

Hi Patty,

I disagree with Chuck, sorry Chuck.

Assuming that there is a center beam, it would not be dependent on the wall that you wish to remove.

From the photo, it's only about 4" to the exterior wall. That would be the resting point of the beam.

I, of course don't know the span of the ceiling joist. I can't tell whether you have stick built ceiling joist and rafters or engineered trusses. If engineered trusses they would be self supporting and there very well may not be a beam in that soffit.

Hi Patty

I agree with Harold as to the truss rafters.

To check if this is so, clear insulation from area in attic to coincide with soffit. If ceiling beams are by passing each other at that point, then soffit is bearing.

To check from living area if soffit is bearing, measure down from ceiling at soffit about 8''and 12'' to right of wall. Drill a small hole. If u hit solid wood, drill another hole about 8''inches to right. If u get solid wood again, can assume soffit is bearing.

Harold= I am not saying wall can not be removed. I am saying studding under soffit can not be removed if there is support beam in soffit.

Chuck

Hi Patty,

I disagree with Chuck, sorry Chuck.

Assuming that there is a center beam, it would not be dependant on the wall that you wish to remove.

From the photo, it's only about 4" to the exterior wall. That would be the resting point of the beam.

I, of course don't know the span of the ceiling joist. I can't tell whether you have stick built ceiling joist and rafters or engineered trusses. If engineered trusses they would be self supporting and there very well may not be a beam in that soffit.

They are engineered trusses and the soffit is just framed out to separate the cathedral ceiling from the other ceiling.

Hi Patty

Looks like u are good to go.

Chuck

Hi Patty,

I disagree with Chuck, sorry Chuck.

Assuming that there is a center beam, it would not be dependant on the wall that you wish to remove.

From the photo, it's only about 4" to the exterior wall. That would be the resting point of the beam.

I, of course don't know the span of the ceiling joist. I can't tell whether you have stick built ceiling joist and rafters or engineered trusses. If engineered trusses they would be self supporting and there very well may not be a beam in that soffit.
I am including a couple more pictures just to make sure. The opening over the dining room is 9 1/2'.
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The photo of the attic is right above the soffit.

Isn't that a beam with drywall blocking in the photo?

Just to poke my nose in, is there a basement and if so check to see where that beam is and that's normally under the next floor load to attic. Just another way to get the feel of the load points.

Just to poke my nose in, is there a basement and if so check to see where that beam is and thats normally under the next floor load to attic. Just another way to get the feel of the load points.

No basement... just a concrete slab.

Your last picture seems to show a beam with drywall blocking nailed to the top of it correct?

your last picture seems to show a beam with drywall blocking nailed to the top of it correct?
Yes but it is a hollow beam studded out for a soffit.

Patty,

If it is a hollow beam, its not a beam, just a studded out soffit. That also means it's not load bearing at all.

Patty,

If it is a hollow beam, its not a beam, just a studded out soffit. That also means it's not load bearing at all.
Thanks again Harold!