Okay, I replaced the faucet in the bathroom and now the elbow at the stub-out drips. There is a pvc stub-out from the wall with an elbow to the pvc ptrap. The elbow right at the stub-out drips when water is running down the drain. I hand tightened the pvc nut as much as I can but it still drips. I took off the ptrap and loosened the nut to the stub-out to see if the plastic ring is damaged but it looks fine. Is it possible that the elbow is pushed in too far into the stub-out that it is not seating the wedge ring properly? I can't move it out any further or the drain from the sink will not line up. It worked fine for the past 8 years until I replaced the faucet and drain. Obviously I must have done something. What can I do to stop the drip at the stubout? By the way the stub-out is horizontal. It looks like your picture from the answert you gave me yesterday.


19647

Open the link it may help you how to install the nut washer, Thanks.

John

http://nrha.web-pros.com/Animations/plasticpipe/plastic2.swf

I did not remove the slip nut from the stub out but it is inserted with the tapered end facing into the stubout and the flat end facing the nut as is the connection from the p trap to the sink drain.

I just found another site that specifies the taper should go into the stub out.
See step 4
Replacing Drain Traps:: Information From DIYFinds.com (http://www.diyfinds.com/replacing_drain_traps.html)

Correct... this is how it should be done, but you still have a leak. I would suggest replacing the trap, nuts and rings. You may have a cracked trap arm. This is cheap to do, and will most likely take care of your problem. Also look closely to see if trap adapter(stubbed out portion, is cracked. Please let us know how things work out.

The drip can be seen when looking at the nut from the ptrap side. There is 1/16 space between the diameter of the nut and the tube going into the stub out. I can see the flat of the slip washer and that is where the drip develops not at the stubout side of the nut as if the drip was traveling through the threads. I thought that possibly because the ptrap is pushed so far into the stub out in order for it to line up with the drain, that it is not making a tight fit to the slipwasher.

I removed the bottom of the trap from both the sink tailpipe and stubout( leaving the tube with downward elbow in stubout). I loosened the nut at the stubout, lined up the tube and retightened. Then I attached the trap to the stubout side and lastly I tightened the slipnut at the sink tailpiece.

How straight must the pipes be when fitting together?
Is there a sealant I could use ?
Is there a point where the tube reduces in size as it gets into the curve of the elbow?

Yes you can use some sealant or teflon tape, open the link and watch the clip, good luck.

John

How to Attach the P-Trap to a Sink: How to Install a Pedestal Sink | eHow.com (http://www.ehow.com/video_4417893_attach-ptrap-sink.html)

One other thing check for a hear line crack if you have used some tool this is plastic and too much force will cause a crack, Thanks.

John

Yes, the trap arm changes size and shape as it begins to make the turn down. If the trap adapter fitting is too close to the turn of the arm, it will not seal. Cut off an inch or two of the stub out pipe and install new trap adapter fitting. Note that the inside of the adapter is beveled. The beveled side of the seal should be toward the fitting and the flat side toward the nut. No sealant should be necessary.

This all worked for 8 yrs until I replaced the tailpiece for the sink so I don't know that cutting the wall behind the vanity in order to cut back the stub out is necessary. I only loosened the slip nut at the stub out enough to realign the 90 degree elbow for the p trap. There was no sealant or tape on that connection so I am not sure why it drips now. I only hand tightened the slip nut so I doubt that I cracked anything. I am also confused about the use of teflon tape in the various plastics. The tailpiece from Price Pfister is grey and the instr. Call for tape on the threads going up into the bowl. The p trap is the common white plastic kit. I believe the slip nut has a PP symbol on it.

If I understand correctly, the leak is at the connection between the trap arm and the stub out. I only suggested cutting off some of the stub out pipe because you questioned the size and shape of the trap arm where it makes the bend. Indicating the connection may be very close to the bend. If that is not the case, disconnect the trap arm, remove the nut and seal of the adapter. Clean and inspect the nylon seal and the beveled edge of the adapter. Replace seal if necessary.

You use tape or a sealant at connections where you are depending on the threads to make a water tight seal. Here compression of the nylon washer or seal is making the water tight seal, not the threads of the fitting, called a compression joint.

Why did this joint start leaking now? Who knows, probably disturbed the crude in the pipe. Just one of life's chocolates. Some times these fittings require a little more than hand tightening. Use a pair of pliers to put another 1/2 turn on it.

Does anyone know what type of sealant or lubricant I would use? I plan to buy a new washer for the tubular p trap and see if I can slide it back from the stub-out adapter just enough to keep the elbow away from the washer without putting too much pressure on the tail piece. It all fit without leaks before and I did not move or replace the sink so I am hoping that a new washer and some lubricant (supposedly this stuff seals as well) will resolve this.

Speedball1 if you see this post hopefully you have some ideas. You have been right on the money for me in the past!!

Try to tighten it a little more use channel lock but don't over tight it, Thanks.

John

Install a new washer... pipe sealant/lubricant shouldn't be necessary. Bring the old washer with you and match up to that one. If they have a rubber washer buy that as well... use as last resort.

If you want, you can put rectorseal or any teflon-based pipe dope on the threads... can't hurt. These are available at home depot.

Let us know how you make out!

MARK

Hi Mark, can I use the rectorseal around the tube and washer where it fits into the marvel connector as well as the threads on the marvel connector itself? Can I still use the rectorseal T2 if I use one of the red rubber washers?

Some people slap this stuff on everywhere and they seem to be OK doing it. I would only use it on the threads more as a thread lubricant really.

With a red rubber washer... again... only on the threads of the marvel connector... not on the washer itself.

*Good luck*.. hope that fixes it!

MARK