I need help in wiring a 3 speed, pull chain switch, 4 wire capacitor ceiling fan. New switch has L, 1, 2, & 3 wire positions. Capacitor has yellow, purple, brown, & orange wires. Also, there is a black (I assume Load wire) that needs a home. Fan is a 26 year old Kenroy. No one at Hunter or Kenroy wants to take ownership, may not be able.
Thank you in advance.

You don't mention the brand but most can be reached via this link. https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/electrical-lighting/ceiling-fan-troubleshooting-repair-frequently-asked-questions-46738.html

It is a Kenroy, which was a sister co. of Hunter at the time the fan was manufactured (approx 1982/1983). The cap is 3-3-4.75. Switch has L, 1, 2, & 3 wire taps

Further research. Before I had to stop the repair, I did the following wire swap from the original switch. L-Orange and brown, #1- 2 black, #2- brown, #3- empty. I need to find a home for a purple wire from the capacitor and a 3rd black from the wire nut for the other 2 in #1

Ballengrtb1, I have not heard from you since I answered your question. Just wanted to know if you received my replys.
Thank you.

Sorry, been out of town and just got back. I have never heard of Kenroy and never worked on one so I should not make any further comments. Ceilingfanrepair does many fan questions and he might know more about Kenroy.

ballengerb1, first I apologize for the typo in your name , and second, thanks for the reply. Hope you had a trip. For me, a more basic question is will I hurt anything by placing the hot side in the switch position marked L and proceed
Thanks to place just one capacitor lead in a single switch tap?

Did you remove all wires from switch and capacitor. If you are Lucky, Hunter and Kenroy use the same switch and wire colors?
The Fan switches have several switching combinations, Need the correct one.
Ceilingfanrepair has some helpful info on this Link:
http://www.ceiling-fans-n-more.com/ceiling-fan-pullchain-replacement-and-repair.php

What is the link?
Thank you for your help. If I get a solution, I will send it to you.

Do you know how the original pullchain was wired?

Ceiling fan pull chain replacement and repair - Ceiling Fans N More (http://www.ceiling-fans-n-more.com/ceiling-fan-pullchain-replacement-and-repair.php)

Before I had to stop the repair, I did the following wire swap from the original switch. L-Orange and brown, #1- 2 black, #2- brown, #3- empty. I need to find a home for a purple wire from the capacitor and a 3rd black from the wire nut for the other 2 in #1

Did not work.

All I know to tell you, is make sure you have the correct replacement switch, and wire it the same way the original switch was wired. Once you're SURE you have the correct replacement you can do some trial and error if you do not recall how the original switch was wired.

Sorry for the delay in my response, had an unexpected visit to the "horsepital", did not see your response. I am beginning to understand double layered switches. I did not understand the mechanics of same. I guess that I need to swap wires on the different layers. My BIG question is can I blow the new capacitor if I mis-wire a load lead? Thanks in advance

You could possibly short something out. If you want to experiment with wiring, wire the fan in series with a 300 watt bulb.

HOWEVER I Wouldn't EXPERIMENT WITH WIRING UNTIL YOU ARE SURE YOU HAVE THE CORRECT REPLACEMENT SWITCH. Have you confirmed?

Actually, the switch was not bad, it was the capacitor. The original switch is a JinYou, double layered, barrel, pull chain. I decided to replace the switch at the same time to solve future problems while replacing the capacitor. Little did I know of double layered switches. The replacement is a Zing Ear ZE-208D of same characteristics.

Do you have another fan like that?

Unfortunately, no. That would be too easy, and Lord knows, I never seem to do things the easy way.

I would have left the original switch in. They don't go bad unless someone breaks the chain.

Unfortunately, the switch was the easiest of the components to replace as the capacitor was not available locally. I really did have an attack of the dumb azz.

Unfortunately, I did not receive your reply. Sorry. I really thank you for your assistance.

Did you get it working?

No. I am afraid of frying the capacitor, which is not available locally. I am not familiar with 2 level switches.

Ok, refresh my memory. Do you still have the original switch, and do you remember how ANY of the wires were originally connected?

BTW 2 level switches confuse me as well.

Somewhat. Not knowing of 2 layered switches, I just wrote L brown & orange, 1 black & black, 2 brown, 3? I have to find a home for a purple and a black. I did not put which layer a wire was attached.
Again, thank you.

You have a good start. I would do some experimenting once you have a known good cap.

WHEN YOU DO SO, wire the fan IN SERIES with a 300 watt bulb. If the bulb lights, something is wired wrong. This way you won't burn out a good cap or motor.

I do not follow. Which leads in series? Will a 100 watt bulb work?

You need more watts than that.

You will need to wire the 300 watt bulb in at th ceiling, unless you take the fan down and bench it. I.e, power goes into light bulb, out light bulb, into fan motor.

Ceilingfanrepair, I hate to be so slow. With all of the leads to the switch from the fan harness and the capacitor, what wires do I place in series beside the load line?

Don't know if this helps of if it has been mentioned for Diagrams?:
Ceiling Fan wiring Diagrams (http://www.hurontel.on.ca/~taitg/pages/cfan.html)
Ans Parts:
http://ozarkceilingfan.com/

Strat, I appreciate your answer. However, it does not show where the leads attach. Thanks.

A meter may show the Motor windings, resistance can reveal the taps as well.
I would start with the number of wires from motor?
For testing, you may want to keep the reverse switch out of the circuit. If you notice the Motor winding that goes to the reverse switch, these 2 wire swap with the other 2 to reverse motor(L,1,2,3)make it confusing.

Ceilingfanrepair, I hate to be so slow. with all of the leads to the switch from the fan harness and the capacitor, what wires do I place in series beside the load line?

The power coming in from the ceiling, send it to 300 watt bulb. Then out the 300 watt bulb to whatever it connected to in the fan.

jim4934, you will likely ignore the wire colors on the diagrams, and give it a color that matches your resistance readings.
The 300 watt bulb Ceilingfan mentions, goes inline with your power to limit the current it can draw, during your testing.
Don't know if you mentioned 4,5, or 6 wires from motor. The 3 drawings show each.

Guys, thanks for your help. I stumbled upon the wiring diagram by asking the capacitor vendor, Switchco, which lead controlled each speed and she said that she had the proper diagram.
O/T = Outside/Top layer
I/B = Inside/Bottom layer or closest to pull chain

L- black both layers
1- black I/B
- brown O/T
2- purple I/B
blank O/T
3- brown I/B
- orange O/T

Also, black wire from motor with brown paint needs to be tied into brown wires at wire nut

Does it work now?

Switchco is great.

Do they have a place you can view various wiring diagrams?

Not that I'm aware, their website is CeilingFanParts.com Home (http://www.ceilingfanparts.com)

Guys, you are great. I really appreciate your help. I think that the owner/manager of Switchco is outstanding. She took the time to help a capacitor customer when no one else would. Neat lady.
Yes, it does work, however only on high. I think that the pincher slots are not making proper contact. Will check later this AM. Will let you know. I am pleased that the community now has a proper wire placement, i.e. diagram.
As far as I can tell, the web site is not conducive to schematics.

Hey jim4934, If you are determined to make this switch work for curiosity, I would continue,
I'm Like that. If you want to be done with this, leave on High and get a Fan Control?
Good Luck.

Keep us posted.

And yes that's why I always recommend Switchco.