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View Full Version : Dryer spins but does not heat


papena
Apr 13, 2009, 10:34 AM
I have a Kenmore dryer that spins but does not heat.
What can be the problem?

Flying Blue Eagle
Apr 14, 2009, 10:38 PM
PAPENA - FIRST CHECK THE ELECTRICAL PANEL TO MAKE SURE THAT THE BREAKER IS NOT TRIPPED< OR IF YOU HAVE SCREW IN FUSES <ONE OF THEM ARE BLOWN, ALL THE OTHER PARTS ON THE DRYER WILL WORK ON 120 volts but you need the 220 in order for the heating element to work,. ;; YOU CAN PICK UP A VOLT/OHM METER FROM Lowe's OR HOME DEPOT <IN THE ELECTRICAL DEPT<:: FOR ABOUT $10.00 dollars, :BE SURE TO GET ONE THAT YOU CAN CHECK {NO LESS THEN 250 VOLTS A/C power;; NOW SET THE METER FOR RX1 SCALE- #4- TO TEST THE TIMER SWITCH- REMOVE ONE OF THE WIRES COMEING TO THE SWITCH: CLIP METER PROBS TO THE WIRE TERMINALS $5- TURN THE TIMER KNOB TO NORMAL DRY>IF METER READS {ZERO OHMS} TIMER SWITCH IS OK> IF THE READING IS HIGH THEN THE TIMER SWITCH <IS OK <IF A HIGH READING REMOVE OLD TIMER AND REPLACE OLD ONE>






papena - you will need a volt ohm meter to test the parts with: one can be gotten ay Lowe's or home depot in the electrical dept: for about $10,00 DOLLARS;; be sure to get one that you can test at least 250 VOLTS a/c POWER WITH;; first lets see if you have 220 volta A/c POWER COMEING INTO THE DRYER;; now lets( test the timer switch}_ power is to remain {off } durning these test set the meter to rx1 scale:: don't change unless I say so <ok ># 4 - timer switch- disconnect the ONE heavy wire comeing to the switch< now
Clip the meter probs to the terminal s on the switcjh:: #5- turn the timer knob to normal dry:: if the meter reads {zero ohns} the timer is OK <if the reading is high then the timer is defective-replace::: #6- to test start switch- disconnect the wire leads going to the switch: #7- clip meter probs to the wire terminals< push the stsart button< if meter reads { zero } the switch is OK if it reads high then the switch needs to be replaced:: #8- to test the over heat protector ( note -you will have to remove the back panel:) disconnect the wires from the protector and clip the probs to the wire terminals: if the meter reads {zero } the protector is good:< if the reading is high replace the protector:: <check on the complete duct to see if there more also some units have three wire terminals on them so you clip the probs on the two out side terminals:: #10 - there will be two tests done on the heating element:: #11- to test for open circuit- disconnect the wire leads< and clip the probs to the wire terminals: #12 if the reading is - BETWEEN 8 AND 20 OHMS THE HEATER IS GOOD,; IF THE READING IS HIGH ,IT IS DEFECTIVE -REPLACE;; #13- to test the heating element for grounding- #14- disconnect the wire leads comeing to the heater< insert one of the probs into the terminal<touch the heater duct on the out side <if the reading is high heater is good<if the needle swings back toward the low end on the meter the heater is grounded <<replace:: {note} replace all the wires you took loose:: if you have replaced bad parts and rehooked the wires <closed up the back panel and replaced the top control panel :: then hook the power back up and give her a test run <with a wet bath towel in the tub :: if I have answered your questions and helped you out : please rate my answers in the orange below: have a great day and god bless:: F.B.E..