To think I dumped my Intrigue because its headlights flickered...

Honda A/C compressor with only 80K miles stopped working. When I turn the A/C on, nothing happens - other than the instrument panel A/C indicator light turning on.

No sound of the compressor engaging - and it used to be a very noticeable sound - no fans coming on, no change in engine load.

Bad clutch? Empty of refrigerant? It was pretty cold last summer, hard to believe it would be empty now, unless something happened to a seal somewhere...

Could the entire compressor be shot?

Oh - about a week ago I noticed a barely perceptible squeal that changed pitch momentarily when I turned the A/C off and on...

Will it harm anything to drive the car with the A/C out of commission?

If it were seized, wouldn't it squeal like a pig and even cause the engine to die from the excess drag?

. Check all underhood and underdash fuses with a test light or multimeter.

. Check compressor clutch relay, located on a bracket on the right side of the condenser.

If the problem persists, check the compressor clutch connector and clutch. Since you live in Michigan, the clutch connector may be corroded--clean and apply dielectric grease.

It's likely not engaging. If it were, you could feel it. The compressor did fail on my 1993 Civic at 20,000 miles--had to install a new one.

Thanks, txgreasemonkey!

Since I have to go to work tomorrow, before I can examine it, will it cause any harm to drive the car?

I'm thinking no - since it's not making noise or putting drag on the engine.

The clutches wear out just like the clutch between the engine and transmission!

All these components - starter, a/c, p/s - I think they're all made by suppliers.

I hope the engine wasn't outsourced!

It shouldn't. I don't think the compessor is even engaging.

No - I'm positive it's not engaging. As recently as four days ago compressor engagement was VERY noticeable.

No more noticeable than when I bought the car, just noticeable.

You should be safe to drive it.

Could a leak, causing very low refrigerant level also cause the compressor to not engage?

And if the refrigerant is low, should I chalk it up to the car's age (6 1/2 years, 81K miles) or inspect it for a leak?

If the system doesn't have enough freon in it, it can kick on and off constantly or not turn on at all. With air conditioning, anything's possible. A pinhole leak can lose all the freon in a week's time. I'd have that checked first.

Thanks.

I'll add some refrigerant first - cheapest and hopefully most spot on solution.

I tried it again today and the compressor came on - once. Tried it again and it wouldn't come on. So, it may be the refrigerant after all.

Damn - apparently adding R134 not such a good idea:

The reason for this is that a completely depleted refrigerant system has no pressure to keep air and moisture from coming in through wherever the refrigerant leaked out. Air and moisture are possibly the two biggest enemies of an air conditioning system. The ways in which they can do harm are outside the scope of this article, but suffice it to say that it is NOT ok to have a significant amount of either in the lines. The receiver/dryer unit MUST be replaced in a case like this as you can almost guarantee that it has absorbed enough moisture to be completely useless, and before refilling the system it MUST be evacuated (pulling a vacuum on the system, effectively removing nearly all air and moisture from inside) with the proper equipment, which few DIYers are likely to have access or knowledge to use. Let a professional handle it, and you may get away with paying for a fixed leak and an evacuate/recharge. Try to fix it yourself, and a few months down the road you might wind up having to pay for the same evacuate/recharge service, plus replacement of a seized compressor, as well as a new condenser, evaporator, and expansion valve/orifice tube because the compressor sent shards of metal throughout the entire system when it died.

Have it checked for leaks first. If there is one, get it repaired and have the system flushed; also replace the receiver dryer/accumulator and orifice tube(s) if your vehicle has them. Those are the 2 filters, so to speak, in the A/C system.

Like what posted, contaminants can get into the system through the smallest holes. Once they're in, they can cause damage if they get past the filters.

. Check all underhood and underdash fuses with a test light or multimeter.

. Check compressor clutch relay, located on a bracket on the right side of the condenser.

If the problem persists, check the compressor clutch connector and clutch. Since you live in Michigan, the clutch connector may be corroded--clean and apply dielectric grease.

Aren't fuses "checkable" visually!

Have it checked for leaks first. If there is one, get it repaired and have the system flushed; also replace the receiver dryer/accumulator and orifice tube(s) if your vehicle has them. Those are the 2 filters, so to speak, in the A/C system.

Thanks again - so much for the $10 can of R134 fix!

I agree; A/C work sucks. They charge too much for the parts and the systems are ridiculous to work on sometimes. Good luck :)

How are leaks found - with a dye?

I agree; A/C work sucks. They charge too much for the parts and the systems are ridiculous to work on sometimes. Good luck :)

To me it's worse than engine work

Oh, this is interesting - the receiver you speak about - hondapartsunlimited lists OEM part for $70 - $90

RockAuto has an AC Delco version for $12...

Am I missing something here!

Nope, just smarter than a lot of people :)

Yes, they inject dye into the system, put some freon into it and let it circulate. The dye can be seen with an ultraviolet light; it glows neon green so you can pinpoint exactly where the leak is.

Nope, just smarter than a lot of people :)

Yes, they inject dye into the system, put some freon into it and let it circulate. The dye can be seen with an ultraviolet light; it glows neon green so you can pinpoint exactly where the leak is.

Who's smarter? You? :)

Which of these is the orifice tube you speak of? I see the receiver/dryer (7), there is also a valve which has to be included with the receiver/dryer, but can also be purchased separately. Rock sells them discretely - so if only the receiver is needed and not the valve, there's a HUGE savings there.

http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/scacura/jsp/prddisplay.jsp?catcgry1=RSX&catcgry2=2002&catcgry3=3DR+BASE+LEATHER&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=A%2FC+++++HOSES-PIPES&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no&systemcomp=Body%2FAir+Conditioning&prdrefno=&quantity=0&act=&count=0&hidSwitch=&hidIrno=

It's a small piece, approximately 3-4" long. It's usually located in one of the lines.

Do you see it in the diagram - sorry, forgot to include the link initially

No, I don't see it there. It may not even have one, to be honest.

Just make sure you replace the receiver drier if the system has been opened. It's cheap insurance.

Thanks. :)

That's it then? No need to replace the valve on top of the receiver or the "receiver pipe"?

That - and the shop fees for evacuating and cleaning and refilling the system - of course. :(

That valve may come with it. In the diagram, it's #12, correct? The bracket for #7 shows that #12 comes with the whole part.

Yes, but if I buy from Rock Auto - or similar - the valve isn't included

It's a ~ $25 valve, if there's no need to buy it I won't!

Sorry, looks like I might be mixing parts.

Honda sells it and calls it a "switch".

Rock sells an "expansion valve".

IDK if they are the same thing or not.

I would say that the compressor is shot if it is not making any noise. And if it needs to be replaced depending on the kind of system that you have than the accumulator or receiver dryer needs to be replaced as well. And if the system is low on refridgerant then there might be a leak somewhere but its most likely in the compressor because that's where most leaks are. So I would tell you that you would probably have to get a new compressor.

That's not very happy news...

It engaged once or twice today - it won't engage if it has low pressure.

Isn't it normal - or semi-normal - for a 6 1/2 yr. old R134 system to leak?

R134 has a very slippery molecular structure, much smaller than R12.

#12 in the diagram is the air conditioning switch. That could also be the problem. If the switch is bad, it could be kicking off the A/C right after it kicks on.

The expansion valve is seperate; I don't think that's what #12 is.

And it's very normal for a 6-year-old system to leak :) O-rings shrink and crack, condensors get holes in them from road debris... anything is a possibility.

Worth noting that at least one other RSX owner reported that a dealer replaced his compressor when the leak was in fact caused by a bad O-ring.

Hence I think a leak test is probably a cost-effective choice...

Yup indeedy... check for leaks. If nothing comes up, I'd try that switch.

Yup indeedy...check for leaks. If nothing comes up, I'd try that switch.

Thanks again, 8384. :)

It could also be a bad cycling clutch which can cause compressor failure and replacing a compressor clutch is a very common repair.

It could also be a bad cycling clutch which can cause compressor failure and replacing a compressor clutch is a very common repair.

I've heard that too - but I was also told the clutch is electro-magnetic - how does it go bad? It's not like a transmission/engine clutch that wears down with use...

All systems leak over a period but if they are in good condition they should only leak about half a pound per year and the most common place for leaks is at the compressor hose connections the best way to test for leaks is with an electronic leak detector. You also said it won't engage if it has low pressure so that can be bad high and low pressure cutoff switches

all systems leak over a period of time but if they are in good condition they should only leak about half a pound per year and the most common place for leaks is at the compressor hose connections the best way to test for leaks is with an electronic leak detector. you also said it wont engage if it has low pressure so that can be bad high and low pressure cutoff switches

Lots of potential problems here... :(

But I'm hoping - and praying - for a simple solution.

Max. charge is 19.4 oz. Sounds reasonable that it has all leaked out with age.

The clutch bearing goes bad, just like on a water pump or alternator.

I have to disagree with the statement that a system in good condition leaks half a pound a year. A system in good condition doesn't leak, period.

The clutch bearing goes bad, just like on a water pump or alternator.

I have to disagree with the statement that a system in good condition leaks half a pound a year. A system in good condition doesn't leak, period.

Is that the same bearing as the compressor bearing? I had one of those go bad on another car, it was obvious as it squealed full time - A/C on or off.

Well an easy way to check for leaks is to just look for oily residue on the system components and hoses but you said it kicks on but not under low pressure so it could either be the pulley that engages power from the engine to the compressor clutch. The pulley might be worn or it could be that the low pressure cut off switch could be bad and yes all air conditioning systems leak trace amounts of refridgerant with time

Are you referring to the pulley that sits on the compressor and the serpentine belt loops around? That doesn't have anything to do with "engaging power" from the engine. There's a switch that tells the clutch when to kick on and when to kick off.

The pulley could also have too much tension, which could cause the compressor clutch to stay disengaged

She must be referring to the clutch - IDK how the pulley can go bad, unless it rusts away

Okay you have no idea what your talking about.

the pulley could also have to much tension, which could cause the compressor clutch to stay disengaged

Um, no. Please explain how the pulley would magically begin to have too much tension on it.

the pulley could also have to much tension, which could cause the compressor clutch to stay disengaged

Tensioner indicator is within range, I replaced the serpentine belt about 20K miles ago

The clutch is driven by power from the engines crankshaft, which is transmitted though one or more belts to the pulley which is in operation whenever the engine is running. When the clutch is engaged power is transmitter from the pulley to the compressor shaft by the cluthe drive plate.

The clutch is driven by power from the engines crankshaft, which is transmitted though one or more belts to the pulley which is in operation whenever the engine is running. When the clutch is engaged power is transmitter from the pulley to the compressor shaft by the cluthe drive plate.

Oh my lord... who have you been talking to? The crankshaft does NOT drive the A/C compressor or the clutch.

Actually who have you been talking to that you don't understand anything that I'm saying?

Now, now...

The crank does drive the serpentine belt, which in turn drives the various accessories, including the A/C compressor.

Well the clutch is driven by the engine and the clutch transmits its power through the pulley which engages and disengages the compressor and when the compressor is disengaged the pulley free wheels and if your compressor sometimes kicks on the pulley may be worn, has too much tension or the clutch plate is malfunctioning and not engaging the compressor when necessary

It could also be an electrical problem because the clutch is designed to engage the pulley to the compressor shaft when the clutch coil is energized so if there is not enough current to energize the clutch coil the clutch will not engage the pulley to the compressor shaft and will not engage the compressor

Thanks - that's also likely considering I live in Michigan (rust belt, thanks to road salt) and the location of the compressor right above the subframe. Meaning an electrical connection could be corroded.

No problem, and I'm sorry I was being mean its just I went to school for it and work in a business with my girlfriend as a side job, hope all goes well, and if you need anything else I'm here

Update - took it to A/C guy, he evacuated, vacuumed, noticed and replaced a slightly leaky service port/valve on the low side, and refilled. With rides to and from work, $60.

Thanks everyone for your help.

Fantastic; glad it wasn't something more serious/costly :)

Well, I won't be 100% certain until time passes.

But - and I forgot to mention - he did leak check it and found nothing aside from that valve.

That was probably it all along. Sometimes you get lucky and the smallest thing is the only thing that's wrong!

Yes, thank you, I hope it's just that valve.

Took 6 1/2 years to drain to ~ 50%, so it seems plausible!